Water change

[PitViper]

I topped off my water. Due to evaporation. I had premixed water. The tank and premix were both 1.024 but when I added the top off the SG was 1.026. Any advice?

[Easy E]

Top off your tank with fresh water (no salt mix). Water evaporates, salt does not.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[ramseynb]

Top off your tank with fresh water (no salt mix). Water evaporates, salt does not.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

+1 You top off with fresh water. If you're doing a water change, then you use saltwater.

1.026 is not a bad place to be. That's where I like to keep my tank.

[PitViper]

Ok so now that I know that lol. Just was wierd that it jumped up .002. Didn’t realize it would do that. Thank you guys. I’m at a learning curve here since it’s my first

[ramseynb]

We were all there at some point. It's quite a bit to learn!

[Easy E]

+1 You top off with fresh water. If you're doing a water change, then you use saltwater.

1.026 is not a bad place to be. That's where I like to keep my tank.+1 With most salt mixes, a specific gravity of 1.026 will keep your calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity right where it's supposed to be. Providing you use RO/DI water and do regular water changes.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[PitViper]

And if one doesn’t have any type of reef salt mix? Just a regular salt mix? Like instant ocean. Does that still have those elements?

[ryeguyy84]

I use regular IO on my reef and suppliment for alk/Cal/mag. If you're just staring out you should be fine. Do you have any coral in the tank?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[PitViper]

No I don’t have any corals let alone any fish at this point. It’s full cycle and toxic as all get out right now. Went out and bought some bioballs for my canister filter. Lots and lots of surface area on them. So def a good investment on them. BUT back to subject. Still cycling have to test tonight and see what’s up with it and where it stands. But am planning on doing corals. So since that’s the case would I be better off using instant ocean reef crystals? Or getting the Red Sea Salt?

[Easy E]

Most salt mixes come with a data sheet that tells you the levels of the crucial minerals you should expect at a given specific gravity, if you mix it with pure water. Reef salt has higher levels of calcium and magnesium because that's what stony corals use to build their skeletons. If you only have fish, you don't need to spend the extra money on reef salt. Ideally your calcium level should be between 420 and 500ppm. Magnesium should be over 1300ppm. Alkalinity should be between 8.3 and 9.3 on the KH scale.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[PitViper]

What exactly is the KH?

[PitViper]

Also by the way. I noticed your run a fish only 10 gallon how easy is that for you to maintain? Asking because that’s what I’m running. I just started getting the brown algae on sand and rocks yesterday and today.

[Easy E]

No I don’t have any corals let alone any fish at this point. It’s full cycle and toxic as all get out right now. Went out and bought some bioballs for my canister filter. Lots and lots of surface area on them. So def a good investment on them. BUT back to subject. Still cycling have to test tonight and see what’s up with it and where it stands. But am planning on doing corals. So since that’s the case would I be better off using instant ocean reef crystals? Or getting the Red Sea Salt?Since your water is toxic and you're going to be doing a lot of water changes, use the cheap stuff for now. You can always add extra minerals later if you need to.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[Dsekula]

No I don’t have any corals let alone any fish at this point. It’s full cycle and toxic as all get out right now. Went out and bought some bioballs for my canister filter. Lots and lots of surface area on them. So def a good investment on them. BUT back to subject. Still cycling have to test tonight and see what’s up with it and where it stands. But am planning on doing corals. So since that’s the case would I be better off using instant ocean reef crystals? Or getting the Red Sea Salt?

Lol you'll get a debate on this I use IO reef personally.
Um... Bioballs and a canaster may not be the best choice tho. Most people who use bioballs seem to scrap them after a short time since they hold nutrients, but look into and make your own educated choice.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

[Dsekula]

What exactly is the KH?Kh is alkanity which is very basically the measurement of pH's resistance to change.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

[Easy E]

Also by the way. I noticed your run a fish only 10 gallon how easy is that for you to maintain? Asking because that’s what I’m running. I just started getting the brown algae on sand and rocks yesterday and today.It's not that hard IF you don't put too many or too big of fish in it. I currently only have 2 green gudgeon dartfish in there and that's about the limit. The problem with smaller tanks is that the water parameters can get out of whack a lot more easily. But if you keep it topped off and do regular water changes, you shouldn't have a problem.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[PitViper]

I e got three buckets of RO water already lined up and one bucket of premixed salt water with a pump in it so it stays mixed. We are only having one or two clowns and MAYBE two or three easy to care for corals. Also have a fluval 206 canister filter with it.

[Easy E]

What exactly is the KH?KH is a measurement of the carbonate hardness of you water. If you have hard (alkaline) water the KH is high. If you have soft (acidic) water the KH is low. KH and pH are directly related. The hardness of your water mainly affected by how much limestone is dissolved in it.

I live in Iowa, which sits on a giant sheet of limestone. I also use well water, which has filtered through that sheet of limestone. So my water comes out of the tap at about a 12 on the KH scale. After I add salt mix, it's up over 20, which is way too high for any tank. So I either have to use RO/DI water or add acid to my tap water in order to bring the KH and pH down to a reasonable level.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[Easy E]

I e got three buckets of RO water already lined up and one bucket of premixed salt water with a pump in it so it stays mixed. We are only having one or two clowns and MAYBE two or three easy to care for corals. Also have a fluval 206 canister filter with it.2 clowns is probably too much for 10 gal. Plus they will fight unless they are a mated pair, and mated pairs are hard to find. The following link will give you some idea of which fish are suitable for a 10. https://m.liveaquaria.com/category/2124/nano-fish?c=15+2124

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

[Dsekula]

2 clowns is probably too much for 10 gal. Plus they will fight unless they are a mated pair, and mated pairs are hard to find. The following link will give you some idea of which fish are suitable for a 10. https://m.liveaquaria.com/category/2124/nano-fish?c=15+2124

Sent from my RS988 using TapatalkAgreed,
I have 2 ocelarious in my 45 (they are supposedly one of the smaller more docile clowns). Since the female got nice and comphy she treats the whole tank as hers and let's all the other inhabitants live there. I imagine the bioload would also be pushing it personally but that's up for opinion and based on how diligent you are in maintenance. If your 100% new to the hobby my advice is to set yourself up for success to enjoy the tank and not spend every day doing a water change and stressing that your fish will die if you get home late from work or something.
My opinion and your welcome to not take it ;) . Is with a small tank like that and just starting out just get a minimal cleaning crew and some easy coral to start maybe then add some cool ornamental shrimp or crab(s) last if your comfortable maybe a fish or two. you may like the other tank inhabitants so much you don't want to at that point. Without fish your bio load is kept minimal and that keeps maint way down. Before you completely toss out this idea look at some of the reef jars people have made and the maintenance involved then compair it to what it will take to keep fish. Not trying to insinuate you can't do this or shouldn't just that from reading these posts you probably didn't do tons of research yet and I highly recommend it before you commit to caring for something you can't. On the upside your absolutely in the right place to start looking at different options and there are sooo many. Good luck!!!

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

[Joe0813]

you should probably read a lot of the stickies so you can learn

[PitViper]

Well after reading what you wrote about the tank and sizing of it and fish. And the bioload. It all completely makes sense. SO WITH THAT SAID... I am going to take the advice. The over loading of a tank is what I am very worried because I stressed myself out with my wife’s old 36 gallon tank because there were more fish in it then what was needed. So I over loaded the system. Well I let her over the system. And I’m not willing to do that again. So I agree with starting out with a few corals I was thinking along the lines of Zoas. Unless there is a better idea for beginners. Trust me I’m all ears.

As far as research goes. Believe me I have done a lot of research... BUT with all the research in the world. It doesn’t prepare you for first hand... hands on experience. Like the diotoms. I wasn’t expecting that. Now I have seen how to help take care of it. But again nothing prepares for the real thing when it’s in front of you. So I am very excited to have my first tank. And on top of that I am very very to have people here who are willing to help me out. And other beginners.

The post above yours about KH reflecting the PH. My PH is a solid 8.0. For corals is it supposed to be a bit higher? Or no? Is that a good number for my PH?

[PitViper]

Joe0813. I’ve been going back and forth between stickies but def still have questions

[PitViper]

Lol you'll get a debate on this I use IO reef personally.
Um... Bioballs and a canaster may not be the best choice tho. Most people who use bioballs seem to scrap them after a short time since they hold nutrients, but look into and make your own educated choice.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

Yes I have the canister. BUT the big thing is that it is really the same stuff as what came with it. Just a larger scale and more surface area. Not bioballs that was a miswording on my part. It’s the biofilter media. My local LFS uses this stuff in their sumps. And there is a ton of them. In his sumps. And these things are Pristine.

[ramseynb]

Well after reading what you wrote about the tank and sizing of it and fish. And the bioload. It all completely makes sense. SO WITH THAT SAID... I am going to take the advice. The over loading of a tank is what I am very worried because I stressed myself out with my wife’s old 36 gallon tank because there were more fish in it then what was needed. So I over loaded the system. Well I let her over the system. And I’m not willing to do that again. So I agree with starting out with a few corals I was thinking along the lines of Zoas. Unless there is a better idea for beginners. Trust me I’m all ears.

As far as research goes. Believe me I have done a lot of research... BUT with all the research in the world. It doesn’t prepare you for first hand... hands on experience. Like the diotoms. I wasn’t expecting that. Now I have seen how to help take care of it. But again nothing prepares for the real thing when it’s in front of you. So I am very excited to have my first tank. And on top of that I am very very to have people here who are willing to help me out. And other beginners.

The post above yours about KH reflecting the PH. My PH is a solid 8.0. For corals is it supposed to be a bit higher? Or no? Is that a good number for my PH?

Some people have a lot of success with zoas and others have trouble keeping them. Personally, I've had tanks where they've thrived and tanks where they withered and died. There are some other softies that are bulletproof though.

I wouldn't worry about your pH. Most people don't monitor it very closely like they do in the freshwater world. I'm sure some people do, but it doesn't seem common to IME. I personally never check my pH. I might if my coral or fish started to look bad and all other parameters were good (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphates, alk). Keeping nitrates and phosphate at reasonable levels (subjective and depends on the corals) and keeping alk stable (and calcium/mag up if you keep LPS or SPS) is what you're going to find most people put an emphasis on.

If you're going to keep softies and a small tank, keeping the salinity stable (keep the tank topped off, I recommend buying an ATO) and doing weekly 10% water changes will be the best thing you can do IME. This is assuming you have adequate lighting and filtration. Speaking of which, if you have a decent amount of live rock (or dead "reef" rock), that will be plenty for a biological filter. No need for other bio media. Your LFS probably does it because there's a very high bioload in the tanks with very little rock (it's hard to catch a fish when a tank's full of rock).

[Dsekula]

When I first started I went to the lfs and got an assortment of frags. These were mostly soft coral and considered 'easy to keep'. One thing I found out is that sometimes you just can't keep something no matter how "easy" it is. You'll find that some things will also grow well in your tank for an unknown reason. For example, to this day pulsing xenia doesn't like my tank(s) but regular Xenia does. I could probally put forth tons of effort to make it grow and maybe be successful but why unless I just had to have it. My suggestion is to find a lfs or friend to get some frags off and see what the natural charcter of your tank is going to be once everything is stable. Get a relatively inexpensive mix of frags, get mostly things that are considered easy but if something's considered a little more challenging look into why and consider it and your situation. The light water and flow will dictate what thrives. Once you get a handle on what naturally grows well you can broaden the spectrum finding coral that like similar parameters and adjusting the tank slightly to meet other requirements.
Some that worked well for me from the beginning we're; mushrooms, zoas and palys, xenia, Monti caps, torch coral, bubble coral, acans, rock/flower anemone.
Items that died almost immediately included: green star polups, pulsing xenia, leathers (I still can't seen to keep one alive), favites (brain coral), gonipora..
As you can see these arnt all necessarily on the easy or hard list ;)

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

[PitViper]

Dsekula. I sent you a private mail if you wouldn’t mind that way of talking.