Salinity acclimation

[Ab129]

My LFS keeps their tanks around 1.015
My DT is 1.026
Normally I would have my QT at 1.015 and slowly bump the salinity up with water changes every other day at increments of 0.001 to 0.002
My question is, were I to be foolish and skip QT, is it safe to drip acclimate a fish from 1.015 to 1.026 in a matter of 30- 60 minutes?
Of course LFS said it was fine but it seems like it might be very stressful (for the fish, of course).

[Scott07]

Its my understanding that going up in salinity is much harder on them than going down. Admittedly I'm no expert here. I haven't had a tank large enough to dabble in bigger fish. But in my opinion no..... I would not attempt to acclimate any fish up in salinity that quickly. I believe the shock of that.... even over several hours... would usually be too much for a lot of the smaller blennies, wrasses, etc... I've kept. Even if they seemed alright afterwards, I still think I would feel bad putting them through that.

[mcgyvr]

The one time I actually did a salinity acclimation it was from 1.017 at LFS to 1.026 in my tank..
I did it over 45 minutes..
That fish is fine and I've had him for over a year now..

Normally I just float to temp and pour them right in..

[hkgar]

For newfish, put them through TTM and start at .0002 above the LFS and ramp up .0002 with each tank transfer. (the salinity of each ttm tank will increase over the 3 days so increase b.0002 from the ending.

[mark344]

My LFS keep their salinity at 1.018 and my tank at 1.025. I drip acclimate a fish i bought from them for about 3 hours until the salinity are both the same.


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[Uncle99]

If you skip QT, what if it brings in something you don't want?
IMO, whether you do or don't is your choice, but I would reccommend that you bring him up slowly in terms of salinity as increases more than .002 adds stress. Have you ever noticed a fish just dropped in to 1.026 from say 1.020, it will sit on the bottom for some time until it adjusts the the work necessary to process the higher salinity. Will it kill the fish, sometimes, but if not harassed, usually not. Damsels and the hardy fish so well, tangs usually not as well. Going to a lower salinity, just drop it in.

If I don't QT (sometimes there are reasons) I take a reading of its current salinity, float the bag, every 15 minutes exchange with DT water until I am within two points of DT. Then I pour the bag to a net and net to the DT.

I have noticed how fast the new fish is "up and running" and will take food right away.

[Ab129]

Thanks for the replies
I think I will do a short (2 week) QT.
Not ideal but I can gradually bump up the salinity over this time and see that everyone appears healthy and is eating well.

[dogpoo]

you chose wisely

[Tastee]

As a newbie I killed a Yellow Tank drip acclimating from 1.020 to 1.024 over 2 hours or so. Ever since I matched salinity in my QT, added fish and gradually increased it by adding salt water to my ATO over a week to bring it up to 1.024. Once QT salinity matched DT and I was ready over they went. No fish losses since then.

[hkgar]

you chose wisely

He is not choosing wisely unless he puts ALL new fish through TTM

[Dr RBG]

Read this: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/index.php

[Ab129]

That is WAY TMI for my dumb a$$!
I thought that the sg of plain RO/DI was 1.000?
I have used this value with salinity calculators in the past to match salinity and the results were extremely accurate?

[Scott07]

That is WAY TMI for my dumb a$$!
I thought that the sg of plain RO/DI was 1.000?
I have used this value with salinity calculators in the past to match salinity and the results were extremely accurate?

I hear ya, I felt that way too when I first started reading about measuring salinity in any depth. If you're using a refractometer to measure salinity, the nuts and bolts of what any hobbyist should understand is this: Your refractometer is most likely a tool designed for measuring the salinity of something other than artificial sea water. Most refractometers at our pricepoint are also inperfectly made. With these things in mind, it is a best practice to calibrate your refractometer as close to the point you're trying to measure as possible.... so.... calibration fluid of some sort rather than rodi water. Try it for yourself... calibrating your individual instrument with fluid vs. Rodi might be really close... or it might not. Mine is about .002 off when i calibrate with pure water rather than 35ppt standard, and reading at 1.026.