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fishkeeprian
09/23/2018, 02:39 PM
Hello,

I have been battling Dinos for a few weeks. I do 10% waterchanges and siphon out as much as I can during water changes.

My current parameters are

Alk 7
Cal 460
Mag 1260
Nitrates 2.5
Phos 0.018

There is loads of info but my mind is getting scrambled.
What should I be doing now?

Thanks

taby15
09/23/2018, 03:13 PM
Following along

Michael Hoaster
09/23/2018, 03:37 PM
There's a good thread on this in the chemistry forum. One of the trickiest things about dinos is that there are several kinds, that require different cures. This has created huge confusion. When I had them, I researched different methods and made a list of things to try. I tried several things. UV sterilization seemed to work the best for whatever kind of dinos I had.

cdavmd
09/23/2018, 05:15 PM
Start here.....

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
https://www.*********.com/index.php?threads/Dinoflagellates-%E2%80%93-Are-You-Tired-Of-Battling-Altogether%3F.293318

cdavmd
09/23/2018, 05:22 PM
Sorry here’s link that works

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

https://www.*********.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/

taby15
09/23/2018, 05:26 PM
If that's a link to another reefing forum, the link won't work

cdavmd
09/23/2018, 05:34 PM
Oh I didn’t realize that. Sorry

top shelf
09/23/2018, 06:59 PM
I have had dinos twice now, the first outbreak covered the sand and the second which was worse covered the sand and rocks. It was my understanding it can be a cause of excess nutrients, an imbalance between nitrate and phosphate, and a few other reasons I dont recall. As mentioned with all the different causes there seems to be a lot of confusion so the cure may be a bit of trial and error.

For the first round I cut back on feeding to every other day or every couple days till eventually it receded. No lights out, no siphoning, kept up with my 4g a week wc and in a few weeks it was gone.

The second and most recent happened after a massive clean out of my sump. The tank was almost a year old so I thought I would clean the sump. Personally never again. I think in this case all the algae was out competing for nutrients. Mind you this is only my speculation. I siphoned for a few days then gave up. I cut back on feeding again, hadnt done a wc in almost 3 weeks, I noticed as the algae was slowly growing back in the sump the dinos were receding.

This was only my experience with it and what I did to fix it, your experience may vary. Good luck

taby15
09/23/2018, 09:12 PM
No need to apologize. No harm no foul.

sfdan
09/23/2018, 11:02 PM
Just so I don't have to type the same info over and over again, read this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681282) on reefcentral where I talked somebody through their dinos problem. The thread is only a couple pages and can be considered a summary of the multi-hundred page threads about it on this and the other forum.

The first step is identifying which strain you have. You cannot come up with a battle plan until you know which strain you are dealing with. A $10 plastic microscope from Amazon is enough, but of course if you have access to a better microscope that will be easier. That other thread links to a good place to help ID the dinos from pictures, but if you post the pictures here I'll confirm the strain for you.

fishkeeprian
10/19/2018, 02:13 PM
Just so I don't have to type the same info over and over again, read this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681282) on reefcentral where I talked somebody through their dinos problem. The thread is only a couple pages and can be considered a summary of the multi-hundred page threads about it on this and the other forum.

The first step is identifying which strain you have. You cannot come up with a battle plan until you know which strain you are dealing with. A $10 plastic microscope from Amazon is enough, but of course if you have access to a better microscope that will be easier. That other thread links to a good place to help ID the dinos from pictures, but if you post the pictures here I'll confirm the strain for you.

This is under my microscope, is it dinos and what strand?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dw2gkvu1a4bzec6/181019_210027.mp4?dl=0

sfdan
10/19/2018, 02:31 PM
Can you get a little more zoom or a little more focus? Hard to see at this quality.

fishkeeprian
10/19/2018, 04:45 PM
Can you get a little more zoom or a little more focus? Hard to see at this quality.

Is this any better it goes out of zoom but the beginning is fairly clear?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j65hy4symelk61c/181019_210225.mp4?dl=0

sfdan
10/19/2018, 05:16 PM
Ok if you can't get any more zoom or focus, record a video with fewer of them so they aren't piled on top of each other. That way I can more clearly see the motion of them. The motion does look like Ostreopsis, but again, very hard to tell.

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 01:31 PM
Ok if you can't get any more zoom or focus, record a video with fewer of them so they aren't piled on top of each other. That way I can more clearly see the motion of them. The motion does look like Ostreopsis, but again, very hard to tell.

Here's another video

https://www.dropbox.com/s/odanidwk1qltnuk/181020_202828.mp4?dl=0

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 01:35 PM
Another video

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qmep9t1untuqma1/181020_203240.mp4?dl=0

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 01:48 PM
Picture

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0389my2s9h5ckew/181020_204630.jpg?dl=0

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 01:56 PM
This is the best close up video I can do

https://www.dropbox.com/s/igwtm165oq27a8v/181020_205238.mp4?dl=0

sfdan
10/20/2018, 02:13 PM
Very good video. The dominant dino is definitely Ostreopsis. Read this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681282) for my advice in how to deal with them.

The bad news is they are toxic and can do a lot of damage, but the good news is there are very good treatment methods that have a high track record of success against them.

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 02:52 PM
Very good video. The dominant dino is definitely Ostreopsis. Read this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681282) for my advice in how to deal with them.

The bad news is they are toxic and can do a lot of damage, but the good news is there are very good treatment methods that have a high track record of success against them.

So i read the thread and the main things are uv and higher nutrients. My phosphates are at 0.05 and my nitrates are at 2.5ppm. My water volume is 200l what size uv should I get? Thanks

sfdan
10/20/2018, 03:21 PM
As a lazy American I'm going to do all the math in gallons but you'll get the gist.

A good rule of thumb is 1/2 to 1/3 watt of UV per gallon, so for your size tank I think an AquaUV 25 watt unit would be the right size. 18 watts would also probably work, but 25 watts is a safer bet. You are welcome to use other brands as well but all my units are AquaUV and they are the only brand I can personally recommend, and I do highly recommend them.

I'd probably start out running 200 gph through the UV and see if that is effective. If not, try 250gph. If not, try dropping down to 150gph. See the advice in the other thread about UV placement. You are looking for the sweet spot of enough tank turnover to make sure enough dinos are getting into the UV, but slow enough speed that the UV is effective at killing them. Just having a UV sterilizer is not enough, you need the right flow rate.

Raise your phosphates to 0.1 and get your nitrates up to 10. See examples in the other thread of how to dose them. The fact that your nitrates and phosphates are both above 0 is a good sign that the dinos haven't completely taken everything over.

The thing with Ostreopsis is when they are blooming and you are not doing the right things, it seems like they cannot be beaten as they destroy your tank. But once you get the right attack plan and start to control them, they can be basically gone in a week. But it may take a while to find the right attack plan.... It took me about a month of playing with my UV sterilizers, flow rates and flow patterns before I had the right combination to destroy them.

fishkeeprian
10/20/2018, 04:25 PM
Thanks.

I've turned my skimmer off to help bring up nutrients.

I will get a uv probably 36w unit.

fishkeeprian
10/21/2018, 01:31 AM
As a lazy American I'm going to do all the math in gallons but you'll get the gist.

A good rule of thumb is 1/2 to 1/3 watt of UV per gallon, so for your size tank I think an AquaUV 25 watt unit would be the right size. 18 watts would also probably work, but 25 watts is a safer bet. You are welcome to use other brands as well but all my units are AquaUV and they are the only brand I can personally recommend, and I do highly recommend them.

I'd probably start out running 200 gph through the UV and see if that is effective. If not, try 250gph. If not, try dropping down to 150gph. See the advice in the other thread about UV placement. You are looking for the sweet spot of enough tank turnover to make sure enough dinos are getting into the UV, but slow enough speed that the UV is effective at killing them. Just having a UV sterilizer is not enough, you need the right flow rate.

Raise your phosphates to 0.1 and get your nitrates up to 10. See examples in the other thread of how to dose them. The fact that your nitrates and phosphates are both above 0 is a good sign that the dinos haven't completely taken everything over.

The thing with Ostreopsis is when they are blooming and you are not doing the right things, it seems like they cannot be beaten as they destroy your tank. But once you get the right attack plan and start to control them, they can be basically gone in a week. But it may take a while to find the right attack plan.... It took me about a month of playing with my UV sterilizers, flow rates and flow patterns before I had the right combination to destroy them.

While I wait for my uv other than raising up my nutrients should I be doing anything else?

sfdan
10/21/2018, 02:57 AM
While I wait for my uv other than raising up my nutrients should I be doing anything else?

A few things that will help in the short term but not the longer term:
- Siphoning them out
- 1-3 day blackouts
- Basting your corals to get the dinos off of them

Also once you fire the UV up, make sure you have fresh carbon running to absorb whatever chemicals the dying dinos will release. Generally a good practice anyways to change your carbon more frequently when dinos are blooming.

Fourstars
10/21/2018, 08:07 AM
Just wait them out. Have patience.

fishkeeprian
10/22/2018, 02:51 AM
A few things that will help in the short term but not the longer term:
- Siphoning them out
- 1-3 day blackouts
- Basting your corals to get the dinos off of them

Also once you fire the UV up, make sure you have fresh carbon running to absorb whatever chemicals the dying dinos will release. Generally a good practice anyways to change your carbon more frequently when dinos are blooming.

This is the unit I went with. Not sure what it will be like quality wise. I use mostly Jebo equipment on my tank and have been fairly impressed with the quality and this didn't break the bank.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253807093994

Is a UV a UV or am I missing something from this brand to a higher end model?

Ive gone for the 36w model as there was not much price difference between the models so it made sense to get the higher watt.

Will I have to run a higher flow rate through it or is 200/250GPH OK STILL?

tHANKS

sfdan
10/22/2018, 11:12 AM
I don't have any experience with that unit so I can't really comment, but I'm sure it will work fine. I'd search around the forums and see what other people have to say about it. All a UV sterilizer does is have a UV lamp with water going around it. I imagine the main difference between the more expensive units and cheaper units is the overall build quality of the enclosure and lamp, but the general principle is going to be the same.

agv180
10/25/2018, 11:27 PM
the best cure is big UV and small pump for UV. i cure dinos with this combination.

fishkeeprian
10/28/2018, 03:11 AM
As a lazy American I'm going to do all the math in gallons but you'll get the gist.

A good rule of thumb is 1/2 to 1/3 watt of UV per gallon, so for your size tank I think an AquaUV 25 watt unit would be the right size. 18 watts would also probably work, but 25 watts is a safer bet. You are welcome to use other brands as well but all my units are AquaUV and they are the only brand I can personally recommend, and I do highly recommend them.

I'd probably start out running 200 gph through the UV and see if that is effective. If not, try 250gph. If not, try dropping down to 150gph. See the advice in the other thread about UV placement. You are looking for the sweet spot of enough tank turnover to make sure enough dinos are getting into the UV, but slow enough speed that the UV is effective at killing them. Just having a UV sterilizer is not enough, you need the right flow rate.

Raise your phosphates to 0.1 and get your nitrates up to 10. See examples in the other thread of how to dose them. The fact that your nitrates and phosphates are both above 0 is a good sign that the dinos haven't completely taken everything over.

The thing with Ostreopsis is when they are blooming and you are not doing the right things, it seems like they cannot be beaten as they destroy your tank. But once you get the right attack plan and start to control them, they can be basically gone in a week. But it may take a while to find the right attack plan.... It took me about a month of playing with my UV sterilizers, flow rates and flow patterns before I had the right combination to destroy them.

Hello

I have set up my 36 w uv. The most flow I can get with the pump I'm using is 132gph turn over. That maybe less when I hook my carbon reactor up as they are ran off the same pump. Will this be OK?

Thanks

sfdan
10/28/2018, 03:17 AM
Hello

I have set up my 36 w uv. The most flow I can get with the pump I'm using is 132gph turn over. That maybe less when I hook my carbon reactor up as they are ran off the same pump. Will this be OK?

Thanks

It might work or it might not, give it a shot and see what happens. If you still have a lot of dinos in a week then you'll probably need a more powerful pump and more flow.

In my battle when I didn't have enough flow the UV was having very little impact. It wasn't until I basically reconfigured all my plumbing to drive more flow through the UV that I started to see results. But figuring out exactly what the magic number is for flow rate is something you'll just have to experiment with.

fishkeeprian
10/28/2018, 03:20 AM
It might work or it might not, give it a shot and see what happens. If you still have a lot of dinos in a week then you'll probably need a more powerful pump and more flow.

In my battle when I didn't have enough flow the UV was having very little impact. It wasn't until I basically reconfigured all my plumbing to drive more flow through the UV that I started to see results. But figuring out exactly what the magic number is for flow rate is something you'll just have to experiment with.

I will see how it goes. I could run it off my return for more turn over.

fishkeeprian
10/28/2018, 03:25 AM
Thanks for all your help. I will keep the thread updated.

afish70
11/02/2018, 12:15 PM
Have you noticed a change at all yet? I have a 90 gallon reef tank i am getting ready to try a UV Sterilizer on to alleviate the dinos or distoms i currently have.

fishkeeprian
11/03/2018, 03:59 AM
Just wait them out. Have patience.

Have you noticed a change at all yet? I have a 90 gallon reef tank i am getting ready to try a UV Sterilizer on to alleviate the dinos or distoms i currently have.

Well I can truly say I have zero dinos. Prior to installing the uv I did do a small water change. I sucked out as much as I could off the sandbed agitated the rock with a tooth brush to loosen everything off. I installed the uv and every night I took a turkey baster and blew the rocks and sand to get as much as I could into the water column. The sand is spotless, the rocks are clear of dinos. I say it works. Weather having it pump through at a slower rate help so the water had more contact time with the bulb I don't no. Best £38 I've spent for a whike.

mrg02d
11/03/2018, 07:32 AM
I found success by doing a 24hr blackout and dosing peroxide. That knocked them back really well. I sucked out remaining Dino’s and continued peroxide twice a day, morning and night. Don’t see anymore dinos anywhere. I also caught them early this time.

sfdan
11/03/2018, 12:34 PM
Well I can truly say I have zero dinos. Prior to installing the uv I did do a small water change. I sucked out as much as I could off the sandbed agitated the rock with a tooth brush to loosen everything off. I installed the uv and every night I took a turkey baster and blew the rocks and sand to get as much as I could into the water column. The sand is spotless, the rocks are clear of dinos. I say it works. Weather having it pump through at a slower rate help so the water had more contact time with the bulb I don't no. Best £38 I've spent for a whike.

:thumbsup:

ReefMX
01/12/2019, 09:07 AM
Just so I don't have to type the same info over and over again, read this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681282) on reefcentral where I talked somebody through their dinos problem. The thread is only a couple pages and can be considered a summary of the multi-hundred page threads about it on this and the other forum.

The first step is identifying which strain you have. You cannot come up with a battle plan until you know which strain you are dealing with. A $10 plastic microscope from Amazon is enough, but of course if you have access to a better microscope that will be easier. That other thread links to a good place to help ID the dinos from pictures, but if you post the pictures here I'll confirm the strain for you.



Hello sfdan,
I am sure I got Dino’s and done some reading and followed your ID guidelines.
Obviously I need your expert confirmation if possible.
I have a video and hope it’s good enough to ID and recommendation for treatment for this species.

Thanks for all your helpful posts!!!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vyncw7qer1v739l/AACMnqwm-7eYSeAEiYX9xzYza?dl=0


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trmiv
01/12/2019, 11:23 AM
Glad to see the UV worked. When I had Dinos in my last tank nothing I did worked for almost a year until I tried UV. I tried it all and was about to give up until I tried UV. A combo installing the UV then one large water change the night I installed it to suck a bunch of them out, then nightly stirring and blasting them into the water column wiped them out in a little over a week. Towards the end of them dying back I bought a large ball of chaeto to replace what they had killed and it started thriving and was able to tip the balance back to green algae and keep them away.

sfdan
01/12/2019, 02:13 PM
Hello sfdan,
I am sure I got Dino’s and done some reading and followed your ID guidelines.
Obviously I need your expert confirmation if possible.
I have a video and hope it’s good enough to ID and recommendation for treatment for this species.

Thanks for all your helpful posts!!!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vyncw7qer1v739l/AACMnqwm-7eYSeAEiYX9xzYza?dl=0


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Hard to tell given the zoom but I can definitely say they are *not* Ostreopsis which do not move like that.

Where are they occurring, on the sandbed, the rocks or both? Are they killing your corals or just being a nuisance?

homer1475
01/12/2019, 04:18 PM
Hard to tell given the zoom but I can definitely say they are *not* Ostreopsis which do not move like that.


+1


hard to tell from the zoom, but after dealing with osteo myself, you definitely do not have the osteo variety.

ReefMX
01/12/2019, 04:23 PM
Hard to tell given the zoom but I can definitely say they are *not* Ostreopsis which do not move like that.

Where are they occurring, on the sandbed, the rocks or both? Are they killing your corals or just being a nuisance?



They are most noticeable on the sand bed, where I got the samples from. I will need to take some samples from rocks and overflow box to confirm if they are on there too. I believe they are, but not as noticeable.
They are not killing anything as such, but I believe they compromise growth and health in the tank (guessing though)!
I do have some invert fatality, but it is hard to determine the exact reason for that.
Those Dino’s disappear into the water column for the most part at night.
I can get more video shots if you need to see more.
I am not running a super low nutrient system.
NO3 : 5ppm
PO4 : 0.01 - 0.03

I do dose life Phyto and run an ATS,
GFO and NO3 reactor




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sfdan
01/12/2019, 07:47 PM
They are most noticeable on the sand bed, where I got the samples from. I will need to take some samples from rocks and overflow box to confirm if they are on there too. I believe they are, but not as noticeable.
They are not killing anything as such, but I believe they compromise growth and health in the tank (guessing though)!
I do have some invert fatality, but it is hard to determine the exact reason for that.
Those Dino’s disappear into the water column for the most part at night.
I can get more video shots if you need to see more.
I am not running a super low nutrient system.
NO3 : 5ppm
PO4 : 0.01 - 0.03

I do dose life Phyto and run an ATS,
GFO and NO3 reactor


Well the dino that *sounds* the most like is Amphidinium dinos, but it is too hard to tell from the video. They spend their time on the sandbed during the day and then at night they'll retreat into the sandbed so UV is not effective at killing them. One that that is effective is a full blackout, as they do not form cysts so if you can wipe them all out then they won't come back.

However, I'll say that I have a sizable population of Amphidinium dinos in my tank, which I can see whenever I take samples of algae growing on the glass and put it under the microscope. As far as I can tell they haven't had any impact on my pod population, my fish or my corals so I really don't bother worrying about them, though for me they are not noticeable to the naked eye so perhaps my population is very small.

Still though the best first step will be to get a definitive ID of them, so if you can somehow get a more zoomed in picture that would be helpful.

ReefMX
01/12/2019, 07:57 PM
[
Does this help by any chance?


IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/9c589a79bc3ec92a641f4d887f0b4e8f.jpg[/IMG]


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ReefMX
01/12/2019, 08:00 PM
[
Does this help by any chance?


IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/9c589a79bc3ec92a641f4d887f0b4e8f.jpg[/IMG]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



398908



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rjjr1963
01/13/2019, 02:56 AM
UV cured my Ostreopsis in less than a week. .5watts per gallon.

Ostreopsis move in a very distinctive way. They tend to orbit around a center point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o2alraNmsY

sfdan
01/13/2019, 02:00 PM
That image doesn't help. Would have to be much more zoomed in and/or focused.

ReefMX
01/14/2019, 08:39 PM
That image doesn't help. Would have to be much more zoomed in and/or focused.



I scraped some stuff off the rock and believe that I got some coralline and dinos in the video here.
I hope this is more helpful.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxe432kn7rtbog3/Video%20Jan%2014%2C%2016%2056%2011.mov?dl=0

Here some more showing only the dinos

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6sm0vq0vk0aowwi/Video%20Jan%2014%2C%2017%2000%2002.mov?dl=0




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ReefMX
01/14/2019, 08:51 PM
Here some from the overflow box
Not sure yet what the other stuff is which is showing up there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5cjvtcwgdp1v60/Video%20Jan%2013%2C%2018%2056%2035.mov?dl=0




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ReefMX
01/14/2019, 09:19 PM
UV cured my Ostreopsis in less than a week. .5watts per gallon.

Ostreopsis move in a very distinctive way. They tend to orbit around a center point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o2alraNmsY



I believe mine are Amphidinium, from what I have seen on the ID page and what I have now been told. Hope these last videos can help to confirm.


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Elijahh
01/15/2019, 02:25 PM
I have had dinos twice now, the first outbreak covered the sand and the second which was worse covered the sand and rocks. It was my understanding it can be a cause of excess nutrients, an imbalance between nitrate and phosphate, and a few other reasons I dont recall. As mentioned with all the different causes there seems to be a lot of confusion so the cure may be a bit of trial and error.

For the first round I cut back on feeding to every other day or every couple days till eventually it receded. No lights out, no siphoning, kept up with my 4g a week wc and in a few weeks it was gone.

The second and most recent happened after a massive clean out of my sump. The tank was almost a year old so I thought I would clean the sump. Personally never again. I think in this case all the algae was out competing for nutrients. Mind you this is only my speculation. I siphoned for a few days then gave up. I cut back on feeding again, hadnt done a wc in almost 3 weeks, I noticed as the algae was slowly growing back in the sump the dinos were receding.

This was only my experience with it and what I did to fix it, your experience may vary. Good luck

I find this very interesting. My tank was doing great also until I decided to give my sump a big clean out, then the next day the sand was covered in dinos. I'll be doing what you did to fix it, just cutting back on feeding and continuing my weekly water changes.
I also will never clean out my sump again.!

top shelf
01/15/2019, 05:33 PM
I find this very interesting. My tank was doing great also until I decided to give my sump a big clean out, then the next day the sand was covered in dinos. I'll be doing what you did to fix it, just cutting back on feeding and continuing my weekly water changes.
I also will never clean out my sump again.!

I thought maybe it was just a coincidence but could be something to it. I havent had any problems with dinos or much of anything since the last outbreak. I fed I feel fairly heavily for 3 fish, my last wc was on 11/19, and test when my purple stylo looks off. Things seems happy and are doing well so if it isnt broken dont fix it. Keep in mind all tanks respond differently and what works for mine may not work for yours. I hope things work out for you, dinos are very ugly and I know my corals werent happy at all.

sfdan
01/15/2019, 08:08 PM
I scraped some stuff off the rock and believe that I got some coralline and dinos in the video here.
I hope this is more helpful.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxe432kn7rtbog3/Video%20Jan%2014%2C%2016%2056%2011.mov?dl=0

Here some more showing only the dinos

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6sm0vq0vk0aowwi/Video%20Jan%2014%2C%2017%2000%2002.mov?dl=0




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't make a positive ID with this level of zoom, but I'm sure whatever steps you are going to take to get rid of them would apply to any non-ostreopsis dino.

ReefMX
01/15/2019, 08:31 PM
I can't make a positive ID with this level of zoom, but I'm sure whatever steps you are going to take to get rid of them would apply to any non-ostreopsis dino.



What zoom is needed for a clear ID?


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sfdan
01/16/2019, 01:56 AM
What zoom is needed for a clear ID?


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At least 10x what you have. Maybe 25x. I need to see the cell structure.

ReefMX
01/18/2019, 04:49 PM
At least 10x what you have. Maybe 25x. I need to see the cell structure.



What I am posting is 80x. I will be able to get 120x, but you would need possibly 1000x or more ?
I will try and get some shots from a local LAB.


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ReefMX
01/18/2019, 04:55 PM
Could I perform some other tests?
I tried to keep some samples with substrate in an open 1 liter glass jar, but after 24 hrs, despite light exposure and controlled temp in an AC controlled room, almost all of them were dead. Maybe lack of oxygen? I thought that was strange.
I also dropped some DinoX on some samples, which also seemed to kill them off fairly fast. I have one other jar with a sample in a blackout cupboard, but since they died already without blackout, I assume this is not helping with any conclusions. Fresh water contact killed them instantly, which is expected.


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sfdan
01/18/2019, 10:19 PM
What I am posting is 80x. I will be able to get 120x, but you would need possibly 1000x or more ?
I will try and get some shots from a local LAB.


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I think it is easier when you are looking through the scope directly than when you have a picture of it. With a focused picture I think 400x would be more than sufficient.