M.H.- Switching to LED acclimation ?

[MarksReef]

I just picked up a Maxspect Razor 130W-15000K
Im currently Running a M.H. 250W Radium and Reefbrite ~fixture
The ReefBries (actinics) are on for 10 hrs. and M.H. for 6 hrs
Do I need to acclimate the switch? (S.P.S., Anemones a clam, L.P.S.)
Any intensity s recommend for a similar match ?
Oh, How high to mount? 30W -24Deep and a big clam on the bottom.

Here is what I came up with do far
Too much at first?
And suggestions?
White. Blue. Time
0.% — 5%—.... 12 o’clock noon. (Moon)
0.% — 100%— 1 o’clock
75%.— 100%.— 4 o’clock
75%.— 100%.— 10’clock
0%.— 100%.— 11 o’clock
0%. — 3%.—.... 11:30 o’clock (moon)

[Vinny Kreyling]

Can you place the fixture near the tank & do a test run to compare?

[MarksReef]

I didn’t do a side by side but matching the look is what I posted.
I think the LED might be more powerful ( that’s why I ask).
I may have them too high at %75 white and %100 blue.
I’m sure there are others on here who made the switch From MH to LED.

[Vinny Kreyling]

Don't know about the maxpect itself but many fixtures have individual lenses over the
led chip & you wind up with a point light source that can be strong for corals. that's why they are dim-able + the ability to simulate dawn to dusk.
You can always "turn it down" if you think it's too bright MH is no slouch but it does spread the light.

[slief]

LED’s are much more powerful than most realize. I think during the acclimation phase, 100% intensity is going to be too much. You are far better off starting off around 60% max intensity and leaving it there for a couple weeks before you start gradually increasing the intensity. And having run a wide range of LED’s over the least several years, I’ve never had to run any of them at 100% intensity to keep my coral happy. In fact, 85% is the max I’ve ever run any LED at.

I ran that same fixture over my display refugium. 75% on that whites on that fixture will likely encourage algae growth. For coral, a 3:1 ratio of blues to whites is ideal though some run 2:1. At 2:1, that would likely be around 50% white and 75% blue on that particular fixture as an example for 2:1. Thus, I would strive for a more blue spectrum so as to not encourage algae growth. If it were me, I don’t think I’d go beyond 40% white and 85% blue once everything is acclimated. At least on a reef tank and I’d probably even go lower on the whites depending on how the display looked.

[MarksReef]

Thanks for the feed back.
I’m going to have to dial them back. I have then 65 W - 80 B
They don’t seem as bright as MH’s. Not to sure I’m going to like these compare to my 250W Radium. I have them up 12” for better spread. Should I lower them or go higher % because they are high.
Or same.
I just dialed to 45W 70B and wow not a lit up tank. I’ll Need to get used to it or go back to MH

[slief]

Thanks for the feed back.
I’m going to have to dial them back. I have then 65 W - 80 B
They don’t seem as bright as MH’s. Not to sure I’m going to like these compare to my 250W Radium. I have them up 12” for better spread. Should I lower them or go higher % because they are high.
Or same.
I just dialed to 45W 70B and wow not a lit up tank. I’ll Need to get used to it or go back to MH

Give it time so you don’t hurt your corals due to the lighting change. After a week or two, start increasing the intensity slowly each week. I normally suggest about 2% increase per week so you can easily dial it back without damaging your corals if the coral responds adversely. 12” is on the high side but that can be made up for with intensity. Also, keep in mind that blue light doesn’t look as bright to the eyes as white light so while they may not look all the bright, there is likely more intensity than you realize due to the blue spectrum. Also, halides tend to look brighter in large part I think because of their wide spectrum and spread coupled with their point source effect. Increasing the white channel will give the visualization of more brightness but you may see an increase in algae growth.