New look QTs

[HumbleFish]

Just wanted to post a video of my QT room, showing the tanks with aragonite in them.

The tanks look better, fish seem much calmer with a substrate, and copper absorption is minimal. Related link: https://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2699300

<iframe width="661" height="372" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WkRE9vARKTc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[RegalAngel]

So, for increases in ammonia, you do water changes?

Thinking about changing the ocean clear canister filter in my QT by removing the filter and sponges and just going for a closed loop flow system with no filtration. Also have a HOB skimmer to remain as is....remove a few rocks and leave the sugar sand in place.
With copper always worried about ammonia.

[HumbleFish]

So, for increases in ammonia, you do water changes?

Thinking about changing the ocean clear canister filter in my QT by removing the filter and sponges and just going for a closed loop flow system with no filtration. Also have a HOB skimmer to remain as is....remove a few rocks and leave the sugar sand in place.
With copper always worried about ammonia.

I run Seachem Tidal powerfilters on all my QTs with a thick sponge plus Matrix biomedia in them. You can "seed" the sponge + biomedia by dosing bacteria in a bottle (e.g. Dr. Tim's, Fritz TurboStart 900, Biospira) before adding fish. It's best to dose daily for a week to get the QT ready for fish + meds.

[HumbleFish]

You can use an Aquaclear or Bio-wheel HOB in lieu of the Seachem Tidal.

You can also place a "virgin" sponge + biomedia down in your DT's sump for a month or two to seed it instead of having to buy nitrifying bacteria.

[RegalAngel]

Ok...thanks for the specifics.
I'll try the ocean clear as is along with my hob skimmer and see how much cupramine it takes to get it to 0.5.
Tried about 10 years ago with Cupramine in same setup...40g long water qt, and it took alot!
Been using CP instead...but have had problems and LOTS of losses in the past year, so ready to go back to Cu.



Sent from my Note 9

[HumbleFish]

Ok...thanks for the specifics.
I'll try the ocean clear as is along with my hob skimmer and see how much cupramine it takes to get it to 0.5.
Tried about 10 years ago with Cupramine in same setup...40g long water qt, and it took alot!
Been using CP instead...but have had problems and LOTS of losses in the past year, so ready to go back to Cu.

Try Copper Power instead of Cupramine.

If you're dosing Chloroquine into an established QT then most likely it is being decomposed by bacteria. It's always best to use Chloroquine in a (somewhat) sterile QT.

[RegalAngel]

Try Copper Power instead of Cupramine.



If you're dosing Chloroquine into an established QT then most likely it is being decomposed by bacteria. It's always best to use Chloroquine in a (somewhat) sterile QT.Will do on the Copper Power!


Sent from my Note 9

[HumbleFish]

Will do on the Copper Power!

Use this to test (worth every penny): https://hannainst.com/hi702-copper-hr.html

Drop the fish in at 1.0 ppm, take 4-5 days to raise the Cu level to 2.0 ppm, and hold it there for 30 days. Or 14 days if you're able to transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank at least 10 feet away.

[RegalAngel]

Already ordered the Cu hi range from bulk reef.
Thanks!

Sent from my Note 9

[Dmorty217]

Just wanted to post a video of my QT room, showing the tanks with aragonite in them.

The tanks look better, fish seem much calmer with a substrate, and copper absorption is minimal. Related link: https://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2699300

<iframe width="661" height="372" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WkRE9vARKTc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks for sharing the super clean and simple setup! What size seachem and what heaters are you using? Are the heaters on a controller? I don’t trust heaters at all.

[HumbleFish]

Thanks for sharing the super clean and simple setup! What size seachem and what heaters are you using? Are the heaters on a controller? I don’t trust heaters at all.

I'm using a Seachem Tidal 110 on the 40 breeders; Tidal 75 on the 20 gallons.

The heaters are all Eheim Jager. No controller. I've had a few malfunction, but not completely go out or stick on. The tank thermometers + ammonia badges are the first things I look at every morning. :lol2:

[Michael Hoaster]

A QT room! Wow, that's impressive.

Have you ever tried Hypo salinity for ICH?

[HumbleFish]

Have you ever tried Hypo salinity for ICH?

I'm not a fan of hypo as resistant strains of Ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003).

[ThRoewer]

I'm not a fan of hypo as resistant strains of Ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003).

They exist, but so far they have only been reported from Taiwan and there only in aquaculture facilities for brackish fish. I somewhat doubt that those strains have made it into the ornamental reef fish trade yet.

They are also only of concern with an occult infection of fish with partial immunity. If you are treating an active outbreak you will know quickly if the strain you are dealing with is tolerant to hyposalinity or not.

So, I find the whole "there is a hyposaline ick strain" argument pretty hollow.

There are other arguments against hyposalinity which have more validity, but this one is rather nil.

[HumbleFish]

There are other arguments against hyposalinity which have more validity, but this one is rather nil.

I've seen enough hypo failures to think otherwise. Performed by detail oriented hobbyists who used an ATO, calibrated their refractometer, etc. It doesn't take much for a parasite strain to infiltrate one wholesale facility and then spread out. But other reasons to be wary of hypo is how it tends to suppress symptoms of velvet, brook and uronema.

[Cpeguero83]

After you’re done quarantine, do you dispose of the sand before the next fish go into that tank, or only if you dose copper?


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[HumbleFish]

After you’re done quarantine, do you dispose of the sand before the next fish go into that tank, or only if you dose copper?

I keep reusing the sand, copper and all. ;) Every 6 months I dose chlorine in all my QTs to sterilize and reset the clock on biodegradation.

[Dmorty217]

Do you not use CP as much now?

[HumbleFish]

Do you not use CP as much now?

Not in a commercial setting because I never know when degradation is going to come back to bite me in the a$$. I do have a few small CP tanks I use on known copper sensitive species. But those are sterilized in-between batches of fish.

[Sweeper13]

I keep reusing the sand, copper and all. ;) Every 6 months I dose chlorine in all my QTs to sterilize and reset the clock on biodegradation.

Do you just pour bleach in the existing qt tank?

[ThRoewer]

Do you just pour bleach in the existing qt tank?

I have bleached whole QTs after all fish in there died from something I couldn't identify. I wanted to have everything sterile before breaking the tank down to be on the safe side.
But there is a chance to ruin the tank with that if you leave the bleach in it for too long. I had several tanks starting to leak after leaving bleach in there for a couple of days. I think the bleach is attacking the bond between glass and silicone.

[Sweeper13]

I have bleached whole QTs after all fish in there died from something I couldn't identify. I wanted to have everything sterile before breaking the tank down to be on the safe side.
But there is a chance to ruin the tank with that if you leave the bleach in it for too long. I had several tanks starting to leak after leaving bleach in there for a couple of days. I think the bleach is attacking the bond between glass and silicone.

Dang..Did you dump the whole bottle. :eek1:

[ThRoewer]

Dang..Did you dump the whole bottle. :eek1:

No, not even a lot. I just got busy and didn't get to clean out the tank until a couple of weeks had passed.
I had it earlier with a tank I had outside and used as my bleach bath. When that one started leaking I thought at first it was the outside environment (sun, heat,...) but when a second one inside failed I figured it may be the bleach.
So now I don't soak tanks with bleach any longer than just a few minutes.

Also noteworthy: there are some fish pathogens that are unaffected by bleach. So it isn't the universal silver bullet most take it for.

[HumbleFish]

Do you just pour bleach in the existing qt tank?

I dose 100ppm as per this guide: https://dec.vermont.gov/sites/dec/files/dwgwp/DW/chlorinedosageemergencydisinfection.pdf

Let it circulate for 48 hours and then dose sodium thiosulfate to neutralize the chlorine: https://www.edspumps.com/water-treatment/documents/Antichlorination.pdf

(Many pool places sell Chlor Out which is sodium thiosulfate and safe to use.)

You can use a test kit from a pool supply store to make sure all the chlorine is gone. Once you are sure it is all out... Test the alkalinity, buffer if needed, and then start dosing Fritzzyme, Bio-spira, Dr. Tim's, etc. to reseed the tank.

P.S. I also take this opportunity to bring all my pumps/filters outside and give them a good cleaning using vinegar.

[Sweeper13]

Thanks Guys..