90G w/ VHO's

[chuckster]

I'm building an enclosed canopy for a 90G "Softie/LPS" tank. I have an IC 660 and a 440. I am planning on using 4x110w 10,000k (AquaSun) and 2x110w actinic bulbs, all 48". The canopy is only 18" deep. I measured the VHO endcaps at 2" wide. Allowing 3/4" between the endcaps that puts the entire assembly at roughly 16'.
Do you see any problem with stacking VHO bulbs that close together?
There will be 4 cooling fans blowing INTO the canopy.
I'm allowing 50" from inside to inside (length) on the canopy. Any suggestions?
THANKS!!!!!!!

[chuckster]

Andy,
After reading a few more posts here, it appears that you folks may have some ideas that I have not thought about ie., dimming, t-5 vs. VHO vs. PC etc.
At this point I have built nothing and am open to ANY and ALL ideas.
I guess what I'm saying is "If it was your 90g tank and you wanted to build the lighting system around a 440 & a 660 what would you put together"?

P.S. If it matters, one of the main reasons I decided against MH lighting was the heat consideration.

[ASH]

The only change I'd make would be what the 660 would drive. I'd go to a pair of T-5 HO 6.5K GE 54-watt (46") lamps with reflectors snapped on to them (2.5" wide needed for the SLR) and one AquaSun and one Actinic White VHO T-12.

Our new top of the line SLR (single lamp reflectors) are soon to be available for 54-watt T-5's and I'll send you a pair if you post pictures of your VHO / T-5 HO canopy.

Avoid PC's and your 2 ballasts allow for stepped lighting without a dimmer. You may want to include one of our new LED Moon Light products for night viewing.
Andy

[chuckster]

Thanks for the input Andy!!
That is a generous offer you make. Please give me afew days to "rethink" how it will all fit together.
Avoid PC's and your 2 ballasts allow for stepped lighting without a dimmer.
Please explain.

(2.5" wide needed for the SLR)
Does that mean that each t-5 bulb will require 2.5"?

[ASH]

With two ballasts on separate timers you can have the Actinics come on 1st, then add the daylight lamps (keeping the actinics on or not) and back to actinics only for dusk. It's low-tech dimming.
I'd vary whether all 6 lamps stayed on all day by your water temperature, as much as anything else.
Andy

[chuckster]

Andy,
I REALLY appreciatem the advice!!!!!!
However, I'm a little confused on why you threw an Actinic White (50/50) in the list if I'm already looking at running 2 Blue Actinics on the 430?

Also, what's your "take" on keeping clams under this set-up?

THANKS!!!!!!!!
Chuck

[ASH]

The Actinic White appears very white to the eye but extends the spectrum you're exposing your corals to when you combine the T-5's and Aquasun to it. There's no confusing it with Super Actinics.

You'd likely be able to keep clams but put that off till another day. Depending on the canopy's height (distance from lights to water), the use of reflectors (besides the SLR for T-5's), the tank's depth and water clarity you have a lot of variables that will determine your light levels. I'd change lamps every two years and wipe off accumulated salt from lamps and reflectors as needed. As the tank matures you learn what you can keep in it.

Andy

[dalejsanders]

Chuckster,

Looking at your post that started this thread, something struck me as peculiar. Is there a particular reason that you want the 4 fans moving air INTO the canopy? The object here is to REMOVE the warmer air from the canopy. I would suggest, if you're able, to install 2 fans at each end of your canopy... one end pulling air in and the other pulling it out.

I think you'll get much better results keeping your canopy temp. down this way.

Just my .02...

Dale

[chuckster]

Dale,
Here's the way I looked at that.
For converstation purposes let's say that each fan is rated at 100 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air movement. If I use 4 fans and have an opening anywhere on the canopy (like the back), I'm moving 400 CFM through the canopy. If I blow 2 fans into and 2 fans out of the canopy I'm only moving 200 CFM through the canopy.
I considered whether to blow in or out and since I'm moving room air either way, I thought that it would be best not to have the moisture laden air moving through the fans.

THOUGHTS???????

[dalejsanders]

Chuckster,

I certainly understand your way of thinking on this... however, unless you have "an opening" equal to or greater than the same number of total square inches as the cutouts for the fans... you won't be moving the amount of air that you think.

Follow me on my train of thought here. If you place 4 fans spaced equally across the back of your canopy, and you place "an opening" centered in the front... you won't properly circulate air across the surface of your canopy. The reason that I suggested 2 fans on each end is because you will move air down the entire length of the canopy and exhaust the warmer air. Equal amount in and out.

I hope that I am making sense. Again... just my .02...

Dale

[chuckster]

THANKS Dale!!
I see your point.

[dalejsanders]

Any time!

[chuckster]

Andy,
If the offer is still good on the free parts I will DEFINITELY take you up on your offer. I will be building the canopy this weekend.
I PROMISE to post photos here as well as RS and my local reefing society's forum (M.A.R.S.H. in Houston).
As I mentioned in the first post here, at this point I just have the ballasts. Please look over my list of Icecap items to purchase for accuracy:
- 4 sets of T-12 end caps
- 2 sets of Icecap T-5 end caps
- 2 T-5 reflectors(by you)
Please let me know what information you need from me.
THANKS again for the help!!!!!!!!!!!

[ASH]

Chuckster -
e-mail shipping info and daytime tel # to Andy@IceCapInc.com . Mention the 2 X T-5 SLR for 54-watt T-5's and we'll ship tomorrow if we get our stock in on time.

Andy