Lots of water, or What the heck are you thinking

[Northside Reef]

Well this is the beginning of the “what the heck are ya thinking” thread.
I am getting pretty close to putting this monster together, it has taken a bit to gather what I have so far.

Like most of us I look at my aquarium and I try to dream up ideas on how I can make it so I can give my animals the best possible home I can give them.

Here are a few concept drawing, and a few pictures of what I have in place so far..


This is the basic idea, Note there are 6 100 gallon refugiums and 2 reservoirs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/watervolumeIIcopycopy.jpg

This is a better view of how the reservoir will be plumbed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/ReservoirTEXTcopycopy.jpg

and here are a few pictures of the actual components in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250027.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250029.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250031.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250030.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250032.jpg

[bennerkla]

Wow. That is intense.

[Northside Reef]

Here is a school of hammerheads
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250024.jpg

[kbmdale]

OMG Dude you've created a monster... I got ideas like that but my wife would kill me...I will have to see how this turns out so I can show her my idea is not crazy....I want a Fuge/sump/res building out behind the house with water lines run underground to an in wall tank in the house....

[Northside Reef]

I could not believe how many fittings and valves I was going to need

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250023.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P4250033.jpg

This is not all of them I just thought I would snap a few pics of'em

[Northside Reef]

This won’t happen in 14 days but I will keep ya posted as it progresses.

The tank is 280 gallons the sump is 60” x 30” x 24”

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/Sump.jpg

That's a 100 gallon rubbermaid tub it is sitting on.

[Sonia Taro]

And you can only afford Budwiser after those pumps. I have 2 hammer heads and all I can say is they rock. Bestgt of luck and tagging along

[bkiba]

yes best of luck, that setup is awesome. I'm curious as to why you are putting in 3 refugiums instead of one, is it just because of the space you have? You also may want to add some extra support to those shelves holding your refugia, those 125G bins can be quite heavy.

[Fursphere]

Insanity.

I like it. :D

[zoocrazy]

"WOW":D

[VegasMike]

How are you handling any potential humidity issues?

[ToddG.]

Potential humidity problems aint the word for it . Also how are you going to get into those tanks setting way up thier by the floor I hope thats not where thier going to be the moisture will go right up into your floor. let alone trying to work in them.

[jwccwj]

Wish I had your guts!

[VegasMike]

I was trying to be tactful.;)

The location of those open refugiums sent alarm bells off in my head immediately. It's going to be very hard to address humidity in such an open environment without some serious air movement. That, in turn, will generate even more humidity as will heating the room with the hot water heater and clothes dryer that appear to be there now.

I would suggest green boarding this room and installing an exhuast fan on a dehumidistat at a minimum.

I am not even addressing working inside the refugiums and putting lighting so close to raw wood.

I am hoping that we just haven't been privy to the entire plan.

Mike

[VegasMike]

Looks like I mistook a hot water heater as somehting else, hoping it's an air exchage unit of some sort. I still wouldn't want my sump room to be open like that...

[Northside Reef]

Looks like I mistook a hot water heater as somehting else, hoping it's an air exchage unit of some sort. I still wouldn't want my sump room to be open like that...


What I do for a living is produce custom polyurethane gaskets foamed in place via a 3 axis CNC robot.

none of this will be open to my house except the tank.

this is my company

http://www.sealtechind.com/

[LobsterOfJustice]

Sick!

[Northside Reef]

Potential humidity problems aint the word for it . Also how are you going to get into those tanks setting way up thier by the floor I hope thats not where thier going to be the moisture will go right up into your floor. let alone trying to work in them.


I know it’s hard to judge by the 2 dimensional pictures but there is really quite a bit of room on the decks I built to move around the refugiums. Also not easy to see atm is where the lights will be mounted above the refugiums but trust me there is room.

As stated humidity is just not going to be an issue I will seal each refugium with a piece of gasketed acrylic and clamps, it is a piece of cake.

Also the sump itself will be 90% sealed. Most of my oxygen exchange will be via the 2 skimmers on the reservoirs.

[ksarauer]

Sweet!! I like the priorities.. Dryer must move for the holding tank :)

taging along...
kevin

[redpyro]

remember mr.4000 humidity destroyed that guys house

[dudah]

Awesome! I will tag along and see how it goes also. Excited to see the end result. I can live vicariously through you now!!!

[mike660r]

Man that is going to be one wet arse setup! Git R Done!

[redpyro]

Mr4000's downfall

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=485859&highlight=mr+4000

[Pike]

You rock!!!!

[Freed]

What size is the main tank? If it is 280 gallon then why almost 1000 gallons of fuge/sump volume? Seems like quite a bit of overkill doesn't it? What will the refuges and sumps be used for?

[Northside Reef]

What size is the main tank? If it is 280 gallon then why almost 1000 gallons of fuge/sump volume? Seems like quite a bit of overkill doesn't it? What will the refuges and sumps be used for?

yes it is over kill :) but stable... maybe more then me

[Northside Reef]

The tank is in!! I cant wait to get the stand should be next week..


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/tank.jpg


72x30x30

[Northside Reef]

remember mr.4000 humidity destroyed that guys house

all the refugiums will be sealed the only humidity will be a bit from the sump most of which will be sealed and the tank..

a lot of 280's out there no one has killed their house yet with one :)

[Northside Reef]

Sweet!! I like the priorities.. Dryer must move for the holding tank

moved rewired and duct work rerouted :)


anyone want to come plumbing this weekend?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/fittings.jpg

[ridetheducati]

Acrylic, interesting choice.

Your waiting for a stand, just put that thing on a couple of cinder blocks. I want to see some water flowing.

[capt. insano]

it looks like the refugiums and water storage are in a utility room. You could easily put an air exchanger in that room to vent all of the humid air outside (and it will help control heat issues if you have any)

pretty inexpensive way to help in insure against humidity issues caused by all of that water

By the way, if my wife came home and saw that I had bought all of the components and had something planned like you do, I would hope I was wearing an athletic cup and a face mask

[Scuba_Dave]

Nice setup, where did you get the 325g storage tank?
I will need one that size for my setup

[Northside Reef]

Nice setup, where did you get the 325g storage tank?

tractor supply about $350.00

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1034&sonID=157&productID=9311

it looks like the refugiums and water storage are in a utility room. You could easily put an air exchanger in that room to vent all of the humid air outside (and it will help control heat issues if you have any)

BELIEVE ME humidity was the first thing I addressed when I decided to do this.

the Rubbermaid tanks will have gasketed clear covers on them. As soon as Chris over at Midwest Custom Aquarium is done making them and I get done gasketing them I will post a pic :)

[Entropy]

Are you married? Forget the humidity. You have to weave around the holding tank to get to the washer and dryer. My wife would have put a quick end to that setup. :D Actually she probably would have just said, "I guess you are doing the laundry now". :D

[NewMariner]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
tractor supply about $350.00

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1034&sonID=157&productID=9311



BELIEVE ME humidity was the first thing I addressed when I decided to do this.

the Rubbermaid tanks will have gasketed clear covers on them. As soon as Chris over at Midwest Custom Aquarium is done making them and I get done gasketing them I will post a pic :)

I understand how you figure you will get by the humidity issue, however Im curious how you are going to attach the gasket to those rubbermaid stock tanks. And what kind of covers are you going to put on them to seal it up?

[Northside Reef]

I understand how you figure you will get by the humidity issue, however Im curious how you are going to attach the gasket to those rubbermaid stock tanks. And what kind of covers are you going to put on them to seal it up?


It's what I do to pay for stuff like this :)

this is me:

http://www.sealtechind.com/

[mickey57]

...I likes....I have to show my wife this,,,,,she thinks I am obsessivvvve:cool: Wouldn't it be nice to dig a big hole,at least a 1/2 acre and 20' deep,concrete it,build your living quarters (down in the hole) out of oneway glass,and have a tube to the surface to have access:D My wife thinks I am crazy,but she also thinks my Lawn-mowwer blenny is ugly!:rolleyes:
..............................Mickey

[NewMariner]

Yea I saw the site....still didnt give me any ideas on how you are going to seal the rubbermaids up though.

[stevedola]

I think he is going to design a gasket for his project needs. Came across as he is either an engineer for seal tech or someone important.

[raskal311]

WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE BLACK RUBERMADE THINGS?

[gobygoby]

Just saw this thread, pretty cool. guess I have a mini version of this system.

180 - display(72 x 24 x 24)
90 gal - sps prop (48" x "36" x 13")
100 stock tank - softy prop
70 stock tank - main sump
30 gal - Refugium

Cool thread

Goby

[mickey57]

....Probley just a slave to the CNC:rolleyes: :D
....................Mickey

[AnnArborBuck]

Originally posted by NewMariner
Yea I saw the site....still didnt give me any ideas on how you are going to seal the rubbermaids up though.

I bet the gaskets will be CNC into the acrylic covers that will go over top of the sumps. From his previous post he will then clamp the acrylic top down, thus creating an air and water tight seal.

How much flow are you going to have through those sumps. I would just be worried about oxygen levels getting low if the flow through isn't great enough. Although I would guess that the macros could also help take care of that issue too. I like it.

Are you concerned at all about salt build up on the arcylic covers? It would be a pain to have to wipe them down every week or so. What about heat issues? With the refuges sealed you could have some heat concerns.

[Aquaengineer]

Green Board. No way, use concrete backing board. This has Mold remediation written all over it. It loves that cellulose paper on the sheet rock Green or not. You would have to buy a huge dehumidifier to suck the moisture out of this one. I like the ambition though. Good luck.

[VegasMike]

I think I did say "at a minimum". It would also depend on what you coated the greenboard with.

When designing my fish room I had the luxury from starting from scratch as we were building an addition. I had my architect deisign what he thought would be needed and given that he has designed many homes with indoor swimming pools, I think he had some experience here. I then added to it.

My room is 100% greenboard (which raised a few inspectors eyebrows) and coated with some sort of elastomeric paint and polyuerothane (3 coats if I remember), gave the painters fits being in that little room with those fumes. The floor is tiled with a drain in the middle. There is a 250 cfm commercial rated bathroom exhaust fan wired to a combination thermastat/dehumidistat that turns the exhust fan on if the temp or humidity rise above a number that I am able to set. I also have a separate AC unit just for the fish room rated at about 3-5 times the square footage.

AND the kicker, living in the desert helps a little with average humidity around 10%. It was kind of funny when my wife walked into that room and asked me why the walls were so shiny.

The results have been that there is no noticeable himidity difference in that room, no mold noticed at any of my monthly inspections (kind of paranoid about that), and no need for a chiller on my system. The average temp in the room is 75 degrees and the tank temp stays between 79 and 81. If my room AC goes out, all I will have to do is open the front access doors or the door to the room and put a fan in there to get air from the main room. It has it's own system as well. The make-up air (due to the exhaust fan) that feeds the room when the exhaust fan is running comes from the main room which is also kept around 73 degrees, 70 in the winter.

The tank has been up for about 14 months now and no problems related to temp or humidity so far, knock on wood.

It will be very interesting to hear how those gaskets end up working out and if your tank runs hot. All that exposed wood would just make me worry, gaskets or no gaskets.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted. It still might be a good idea to add an exhaust fan on a dehumidistat, IMO.

[Scuba_Dave]

Originally posted by raskal311
WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE BLACK RUBERMADE THINGS?

They are available thru most farm supply stores

[original-reefland]

What do you plan on keeping in these sumps? Are they just water volume or do you expect to hang lights over them and such?

If you keep them sealed, condensation will be all over the plexiglass which if exposed to light will quickly be coralline or algae covered blocking the light.

[eidillitih]

Man, I'm gonna tell ya I do not see the point. I you wanted more water volume get a bigger tank. Or start another tank in the utility room instead of refugiums. With that much space you can do so much more and obviously you have the money.

Just my $.02

P.S. That main tank is goona be nice.

[DiggerDave]

Ok lets get to it. What the heck is this going to cost:eek1:

[Northside Reef]

lol wow the criticism is far more unbelievable then I could have imagined.

My favorite is "you have to wind your way to the washer" OMFG now that was a reach. I won't be updating this thread.

Good luck guys I will check in to RC from time to time but really it's not that much fun to type the same thing over and over about the humidity thing. I explained it and ya still don't get it.

have fun with whatever you are doing and I will have fun with what I am doing


Peace....

[isom]

that's a bummer, I was looking forward to more PICS!! don't let the naysayers get you down, share with us!:D

[eidillitih]

Yeah, I still like to see what the main tank looks like.

[The Punisher]

I agree, don't let a few naysayers ruin this forum for you. I'm looking forward to seeing this come together and of course more pics. However, if you can't take a few people critizing then maybe the internet isn't for you, especially RC. Good luck with whatever you decide and, FWIW, I hope you continue with the updates.

[zbrook1]

No biggie.I did that once for a Betta fish bowl...............only kidding ofcourse..........keep us informed how it goes........good luck,that is surely impressive.

[zbrook1]

No biggie.Did that once for a Betta fish bowl........only kidding ofcourse....very impressive though..........keep us informed and good luck

[Energy]

Sounds like most of them are jealous. Have fun setting it up. Worst case senario- you take it down make some changes and put it back up. Half the fun is figuring this stuff out.

[Northside Reef]

Have fun setting it up. Worst case senario- you take it down make some changes and put it back up. Half the fun is figuring this stuff out.

at last someone who gets it :)

I got some good advice I think over at TCMAS about taking one of the fuges down and making it a frag tank I like the idea. I think I can put it over the sump there is a lot of room there. I just need to modify the deck a bit.

[NwG]

Northside, I have a basement sump.. not as grand as yours.. :) I was planning on adding a 250g storage tank to the system for more volume.. so I have a few questions for you... do you plan on keeping yours in the light or dark? and do you plan on insulating it?

My one question, how in the worls did you caculate the drain down volume for the sump in the event of a power failure?!!! My method is just set it up, and pray when I shut the breaker off :) i usually get it right, but WOW that had to take some time!!!

[integlikewhoa]

Hope this dont end on bad terms. I see your point but also the guys bring up some valiuable info. Have to tank good opinions with the bad. And there are alot of different people reading and trying to understand so your going to have to repeat or explain. Your money do what u want with it but people just trying to help. Good luck ill be following along.

[melev]

Interesting ideas thus far. It should be worth reading in the months to come, not matter what the outcome.

With that much water in the system, do you anticipate doing less water changes since you'll only have a 280g reef with 75% non-reef water in the system?

[Northside Reef]

so I have a few questions for you... do you plan on keeping yours in the light or dark? and do you plan on insulating it?

pretty much right where they sit.

My one question, how in the worls did you caculate the drain down volume for the sump in the event of a power failure

I just calculated it as though the tubing was square so (in inches) Height x Width x Length /231 should be close enough. also there is a floor drain right next to the sump that I will plumb over to incase I was wrong.

Hope this dont end on bad terms. I see your point but also the guys bring up some valiuable info. Have to tank good opinions with the bad. And there are alot of different people reading and trying to understand so your going to have to repeat or explain. Your money do what u want with it but people just trying to help. Good luck ill be following along.

You are right of course and maybe yesterday was a bad day but the humidity thing was becoming a dead horse that if I do stay with this thread I no longer intend to address. If my plan does not work I will step up and say so however.

With that much water in the system, do you anticipate doing less water changes since you'll only have a 280g reef with 75% non-reef water in the system?

I do plan to do water changes right now I do 10% per week I hope to be able to do fewer and I will base it on tank volume not system volume. so 10 % of the 280

How much flow are you going to have through those sumps. I would just be worried about oxygen levels getting low if the flow through isn't great enough. Although I would guess that the macros could also help take care of that issue too. I like it.

in the main tank there should be adequate surface movement to keep DO at the right levels. Also there will be 2 MRC 3 skimmers (one on each reservoir) that should also help in this area.

[moumda]

Great looking settup! My only comment is to plumb the skimmer diredtly from the overflow from tank to improve skimmer performance. Please do post pics when done!

[Scuba_Dave]

I didn't think it was overboard.
I already have a 129g & a 150g sump for my next tank. I think the 150 will end up being a frag tank, the 129g a sump, then I'm going to need a fuge. I already "passed" on a 750g that was for sale.....too small!! :lol:

Good luck, the more threads I see like this, the more I learn

[eidillitih]

I got some good advice I think over at TCMAS about taking one of the fuges down and making it a frag tank I like the idea. I think I can put it over the sump there is a lot of room there. I just need to modify the deck a bit.

Now this is what I was talking about. With all that space, ditch a refugium and add a frag tank. great!! keep us posted.

Yes, I am jealous, I've been thinking myself sleepless trying to figure out how can I add a frag tank to my current system and when I seen this thread and all the space and no frag tank, I'm think "3 refugiums, reservior, and sump. all add up to over 1000gals but no frag tank! man, Noway I wouldn't have one setup with all that space."

Anyway Good Luck:cool:

[VegasMike]

I hope you didn't take my post as critical in any way, just telling what I did to adress humidity issues. You are just addressing them in a different manner and I will be curious to see how it turns out. Being in Minn and putting most of the water volume in the basement should help in temp control.

The only thing I am jealous about is the fun you get to have in setting up the tank - and maybe having a basement as you don't see too many of those here in Las Vegas:D .

As for all the refugium/sump/frag tank talk. I have found that I rarely do anything in my sump, work wise, on a regular basis other than change out carbon monthly. I harvest macro algae out of the refugium monthly and feed my refugium fish every couple days. If I hadn't put the fish in the refugium, I would hardly touch it either. I just had to put a pair of Clakii's in there and a Chysurus Angel. The Chysurus had black Lympho when I got him and I wanted him somewhat isolated. He healed up within a weak and I have just been too scared to add him to the main tank. So, I have this awesome fish that no one gets to see....:rolleyes:

I digress. Enjoy setting up the new tank as I feel that is a major part of the fun in this hobby. Were there things I would have done differently with my 750 gallon system? Sure. The two major ones would have been to run a drain line closer to the sump or refugium to plumg into for water changes and to have gone bare bottom from the start. I don't have much sand anymore, maybe 1/2" to 1" in the front 12" of the tank, but that's all. For a drain, I teed off with a valve and a barbed fitting so that whenever I do a water change, I have to remove the little round grate over the floor drain stick the tubing into the drain and turn the valve until the refugium gets down to a marked level. I then close the valve open another one, flick a switch and 50 gallons of water is transferred from my salt water mixing container to the refugium/system. The water change takes about 15 minutes, but I could have made it a bit easier.

Let us all know if you have any questions because one thing is certain, somebady has probably come across the situation before.

Have fun,
Mike

[Northside Reef]

Great looking settup! My only comment is to plumb the skimmer diredtly from the overflow from tank to improve skimmer performance. Please do post pics when done!

yes both over flows (that a are not detoured to the refugiums) are plumbed direct to the intake of the pump to the skimmer. although part of that water is diverted to keep the reservoirs recirculating

Drawing from page one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/ReservoirTEXTcopycopy.jpg

Mike I had no problem with your input. You were speaking from direct experience and that is a valuable commodity.

I was shorted on a few fitting from MD (cant find 2” male nipples at HD) I hope to get them in this weekend. I should have checked the box sooner I guess. I have one of the reservoirs roughed in. I see I have a couple things to change form my original plan. I hope to have it circulating soon.

300 gallons will take a bit to make though at 40 gallons per day, better then 7 days just to fill one reservoir.. lol if I make all my water myself it will take over a month 24/7 to fill this entire system.

[melev]

Sounds like you need a new RO unit. Lots of people buy the 100gpd units on Ebay for under $90.

[GregM779]

I just received my RO/DI from Ebay Monday, got it from FilterDirect, they were very quick to respond with any questions I had. My tap water had a TDS reading of 360 after the filter it was 2. I ordered the $90 model (RD-100)

[Northside Reef]

Sounds like you need a new RO unit

Yeah I was thinking the same thing..

on a side note. Marine Depot really came through. I did not even email them until 8:00 PM last night about the missing fittings. UPS just dropped off the four I needed. totally made my day.

[wonrib00]

Now that is customer service. Tell us more about the main tank. What are your plans? Lighting? SPS? BB/DSB? Closed loop?

[Northside Reef]

OK I am going to get another RO/DI unit but I have a question about these ones on ebay for $90.00.

How good are they?

I spent more then twice that for my SpectraPure MPDI-40 did I just pay too much or is there a quality difference I should consider?

I like the idea of getting another Spectrapure that way I only have to keep one set of new cartridges on hand for both units, but not if I am paying that much more for the unit when I can get the same thing for less..

But I don’t want to go cheap if there are other factors that I should consider.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Northside Reef]

Now that is customer service. Tell us more about the main tank. What are your plans? Lighting? SPS? BB/DSB? Closed loop?

I have a 125 set up now that has 3 250 watt DE HQI’s, MRC-2 skimmer, MRC CR-4 calcium reactor, 2 Tunze 6100 power heads with controller. All of which is moving to the new tank.

The MRC-2 is going to be upgraded by adding a 12” riser and a second becket. Andy says that that will be a bit larger then an MRC-3. I will have the updated skimmer and a new MRC-3 on one of the reservoirs each.

I plan to add a Nilsen reactor but it is not a number one priority atm.

The 125 is mostly SPS a few LPS and some Zoanthids. The new tank will have more SPS’s.

The closed loop is going to be an Oceans Motions 8 way run by a Sequence Hammerhead.
I talked to Paul about a custom 6 way for the return as well. I plan to use his revolutions on the 6 way.

Each 6100 puts out about 3,100 GPH but they will not both be at full speed at the same time more like 100%/50% and back and forth. So a bit over 4,500 GPH between them.
The CL off the hammerhead is about 5,500 GPH at 0 head. I will have marginal lose due to the OM and fittings, but I should be close to that amount.
My return should add an additional 2,500 GPH according to the head lose charts and the guys at MDM. So total tank flow is in the neighborhood of 12,500 GPH.

I plan to go BB I don’t like seeing the sand from my SSB flying around my tank, and I don’t trust myself to maintain a DSB. So BB with a few remote DSB’s.
The thing I like about this setup is it is modular every component can be cut off from the main system.

I am sure once the major portion of this upgrade is done I will add other gadgets but for now that is the nuts and bolts of the system.

[mickey57]

...I likes'
;) :cool:
.................Mickey

[Dannyboy17]

Cool idea. Cant wait to see some pics:)

--Dan

[Northside Reef]

OK I am going to get another RO/DI unit but I have a question about these ones on ebay for $90.00.

How good are they?

I spent more then twice that for my SpectraPure MPDI-40 did I just pay too much or is there a quality difference I should consider?

I like the idea of getting another Spectrapure that way I only have to keep one set of new cartridges on hand for both units, but not if I am paying that much more for the unit when I can get the same thing for less..

But I don’t want to go cheap if there are other factors that I should consider.

Any help would be appreciated.

Mark I was looking at your site I thought I remembered that you sold these things. The one I see on your site looks a lot like the Spectrapure I have. Are they interchangeable? (can I interchange the cartridges?)

[wonrib00]

I went with the el cheapo ro/di unit from ebay, and I love it. I can't see why people are paying two or even three times that ammount for units that do the same things. My tap water was at 413 ppm, first couple of weeks, 0ppm, it has now leveled out at 4ppm. I have had the unit for 13 months.

[elephen]

tagging along....

[jimsta]

I went with one of the ones from ebay and I also very pleased with it, its givin me no probleems and very simple to use.

[Earl n Jenn]

Believe it or not, I have seen this exact plumbing before. Only I think I was at Sea World!! Just Kidding.. Go for it man. If this works...You are my hero. If not, That basement will be one large aquarium.... Win-Win situation..

[melev]

I received your email, and will reply there. I'm not a sponsor of RC.

[Northside Reef]

Hello all,
Not a lot to show the stand is not done yet here is a picture of how far along it is.

Front,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/stand2.jpg


Side,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/standside.jpg


The battery needs to be recharged on my camera. it died while I was trying to get pics of the reservoirs. I will post them tomorrow.


I thought maybe you would like to see my tank bypass lol it ain't much but the camera went dead right after I took them so dang it I am using them.

in this mode water goes up the 2" pipe on the right and returns via the overflow through the two 1.5" pipes on the left.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/ValvesVert.jpg

in this mode the water is diverted to bypass the tank and just recirculate water from the 2" pipe straight to the two 1.5" pipes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/ValvesHorz.jpg

I will be in this mode for awhile. Once I get everything plumbed and leak tested I plan use the system to cure the additional 200 LBS. of live rock I want to add.

Like I said I will post more pictures tomorrow, sorry about the camera.

[Northside Reef]

I would like to add Special Thanks to Sidewinder as I used his stand design :)

BTW yes there will be more center braces for the plywood to sit upon for the tank

[reefkeeper135]

I have really been enjoying watching your progress, looks like it will be an AWSOME system cant wait to see it all come together...

[marilynrn711]

I spent hours going through your thread. it is awesome..thanks

[reef-guy101]

WOW, tagging along, that puts my new plumbing I just did yesterday to shame. definately want to see some updated pics as you get er up and runnin!

[qwuintus]

6 large fuges?? why the overkill?

otherwise the project looks good. post more pics whenever you can

[AnnArborBuck]

Originally posted by qwuintus
6 large fuges?? why the overkill?


He has already answered this, "Why not". The more water volume you have the more stable your params. It has been stated by experts that for a fuge to really work you need to have a large volume, larger then the display tank. Somebody has the space and the means and they want to give it a try. I think it is a great idea.

[NOLACLS]

That is pretty much what I want to do with my stand as well but I will need it 72x42x34. What are the specs on yours and would that work if its 42" front to back?? Is there going to be any corner braces or do you not need them?

Going to be a sweet setup!

[qwuintus]

Originally posted by AnnArborBuck
He has already answered this, "Why not". The more water volume you have the more stable your params. It has been stated by experts that for a fuge to really work you need to have a large volume, larger then the display tank. Somebody has the space and the means and they want to give it a try. I think it is a great idea.

so are what most reef keepers fuges even doing anything?

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NOLACLS
That is pretty much what I want to do with my stand as well but I will need it 72x42x34. What are the specs on yours and would that work if its 42" front to back?? Is there going to be any corner braces or do you not need them?

Going to be a sweet setup!

The frame is .125 1.5x1.5 steel tubing except in the front where there is no support where the doors will be. There it is 1.5x3"

There will be corner bracing but my guy says I should put it on the bottom since that is where the side loading would be felt. I will get a pic when it is done.

42' deep I would think you would want vertical supports on the center cross braces or a center horizontal brace but I will ask the person doing mine what he thinks.

BTW there will be a door that swings in the front and the entire canopy hinges in the back. I am not sure if gas shocks will work for the canopy, we are playing with that now. Worst case I have to go to a scissors hinge with a locking center. I am hoping the gas shocks work because they will be exposed and I think they will look nicer.

[The Punisher]

Gas shocks on a canopy, that's just madness, but I love the idea.

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
The frame is .125 1.5x1.5 steel tubing except in the front where there is no support where the doors will be. There it is 1.5x3"

There will be corner bracing but my guy says I should put it on the bottom since that is where the side loading would be felt. I will get a pic when it is done.

42' deep I would think you would want vertical supports on the center cross braces or a center horizontal brace but I will ask the person doing mine what he thinks.

BTW there will be a door that swings in the front and the entire canopy hinges in the back. I am not sure if gas shocks will work for the canopy, we are playing with that now. Worst case I have to go to a scissors hinge with a locking center. I am hoping the gas shocks work because they will be exposed and I think they will look nicer.

Yep 42" is a lot :D I would like to keep the sides open so I can slide my sump in. I want to make a big sump like 66x30x18 so the sides need to be open. I can do some angle supports on the sides. The tank is 36 front to back but it has external overflows. So that makes it 42" total. Take a look in my gallery on the 2nd page. I have a quick draw up of what I was thinking for the stand and canopy...take a look and talk to your guy :cool: This is holding me up from building it because I want it to be built right. Once I nail down a idea im going to get it built! Then I can finally get my tank off the floor :lol:

[sidewinder770]

I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.

Looks good so far and I'll be sure to watch your progress to see if I can steal any of your ideas as well :)

Best of luck!

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by sidewinder770
I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.

Looks good so far and I'll be sure to watch your progress to see if I can steal any of your ideas as well :)

Best of luck!

So your going to hit a button and your doors are going to open and close?

[Northside Reef]

The linear actuator is a cool idea, I think I am going to try the shocks though, if I get the load balance right it will be easy enough to open the top.

I would love to see the actuator in action though :)


NOLACLS, I spoke to my welder he said that he would most likely do the top in 1.5x3" tubing and then use 1.5x3" cross bracing (front to back on the top) as well as 1.5x3" in the front corners.

The rest can be done in 1.5x1.5”

I told him your tank will outweigh mine by a bunch as it is glass.
He tends to overbuild but, better safe then sorry :)

[melev]

Originally posted by sidewinder770
I noticed you posted in my thread and I have one thing to say- "linear actuator". Gas struts may be good but I got a linear actuator for $60 and it has up and down controls allready attached with a 1300LB rating. The front of my canopy will be done this way and it will also have 4 doors that open the regular way as well.


Got a link or a picture?

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
The linear actuator is a cool idea, I think I am going to try the shocks though, if I get the load balance right it will be easy enough to open the top.

I would love to see the actuator in action though :)


NOLACLS, I spoke to my welder he said that he would most likely do the top in 1.5x3" tubing and then use 1.5x3" cross bracing (front to back on the top) as well as 1.5x3" in the front corners.

The rest can be done in 1.5x1.5”

I told him your tank will outweigh mine by a bunch as it is glass.
He tends to overbuild but, better safe then sorry :)

I can live with 1.5 x 3. Will that not need any corner braces then? Also what about the front center and rear center brace. Would that need 1.5 x 3 or just 1.5 x 1.5?

I would LOVE so see the auto doors on a tank :lol:

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NOLACLS
I can live with 1.5 x 3. Will that not need any corner braces then? Also what about the front center and rear center brace. Would that need 1.5 x 3 or just 1.5 x 1.5?

I would LOVE so see the auto doors on a tank :lol:


the front center on my stand is 1.5x3 the rear wont because there you have all the 1.5x1.5 braces in the back.

I would be afraid of side load myself not as much front to back but end to end. I would have corner braces there for sure.

corner braces can be bolted in place just have him weld feet with through holes so you can bolt them on after you slide your sump in place.

Also if you bolt be sure he welds a bolt plate on the legs and cross brace you are bolting to because the .125 tube wont be strong enough to hold the bolt if there is any weight on it.

(the bolt plate would be something like .25" flat stock that you will drill and tap to hold you corner braces)

[Northside Reef]

Marc here is a link to Scott's (Sidewinder) thread you may want to ask him there, I do not know if he monitors this one or not.


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=4887349#post4887349

[AcroSteve]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
OK I am going to get another RO/DI unit but I have a question about these ones on ebay for $90.00.

But I don’t want to go cheap if there are other factors that I should consider.

Any help would be appreciated.

I ran my RO/DI for quite a while on regular water pressure. This was at best 55 lbs. Finally got a booster pump hooked up and now run at a min of 70lbs. Output is significantly better and more consistant.

If you do not have good water pressure, run(do not walk) and get a booster pump. You will not be sorry.


Great looking setup, btw

[AcroSteve]

Not as elegant as the linear actuator, but this is what I used. It is stainless steel.

mcmaster carr # 11615A12 Item 13 on the page. Hardware - Lid Support at http://www.mcmaster.com/


Their online catalog does not lend well to direct links, sorry.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by AcroSteve
Not as elegant as the linear actuator, but this is what I used. It is stainless steel.

mcmaster carr # 11615A12 Item 13 on the page. Hardware - Lid Support at http://www.mcmaster.com/


Their online catalog does not lend well to direct links, sorry.


I was looking at 4138T56 on one side and 9425K13 on the other side. One locks the other one doesn't. For some strange reason none of the shocks that are offered in stainless steel lock.

those will be used to lift the entire canopy, I am going to use these to lift the front of the canopy

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=10807&rd=1

but the type of hinge you are using is what I plan to use if I can't get the shocks to work.

[Northside Reef]

Well pretty busy with the kids this weekend so I did not get as far as I wanted.
Still had fun :).

Here are a few pics of one of the reservoirs. It is ready for water I just need to fill it. I had hoped to have that done by now oh well.

This is a picture of the right side. The two small gate valves are to control flow to my skimmer (which Andy tells me will ship this week). The large valve is for the return to the reservoir to keep it recirculating.

The 1.5' fitting that has nothing going to it yet will be the return from the skimmer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/rightsideres.jpg

This is a picture of the left side one line is from the tank, the other is to the sump.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/leftsideres.jpg

This is a inside the reservoir picture showing the incoming hose being plumbed direct to the skimmer/recirculation pump.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/insideleft.jpg

This is a close-up of the inlet to the pump. The pump should pull from the inlet hose and also pull from inside the reservoir

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/intake.jpg

This is just a picture of the pump

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/output.jpg

[palabok]

NORTHSIDE REEF, i think this system is one of the most impressive once its done.

[$hurik]

OMG. After i've just seen my GF HAS NO RIGHTS to say that i spend to much money on my 30 gallon reef tank : ) lol

[sidewinder770]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
Marc here is a link to Scott's (Sidewinder) thread you may want to ask him there, I do not know if he monitors this one or not.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=4887349#post4887349

Yeah- I do watch this thread. I think you have some great ideas and it will be nice to see it when everything is up and running. Glad the stand idea worked out for ya- I love the way mine turned out and I am sooooo glad I went with steel and powdercoating rather than wood and paint- much easier and probably lighter as well.

So how much water do you anticipate in your whole system? The reservoirs are a great idea- Not sure if I could find it again but I remember one thread where the guy put the reservoirs in the ground to help with cooling- now that would be a pain in the butt!

I will try and post some pics of the linier actuator when I get a chance but it will probably not be installed and operational for another 2 months. When it's finished it will be mounted on the top of the canopy and you won't even see it- even when the canopy is open and will keep all the moving parts out of the canopy and away for the salt air. I just have so much other stuff to get done first before I tackle the canopy and stand (I'm sure you know what I mean).

Anyway- looking good and keep the pics coming.

[Northside Reef]

Very glad to have you along Scott. I do keep an eye on your progress as well I am looking forward to seeing that linear actuator

Originally posted by sidewinder770
I just have so much other stuff to get done first before I tackle the canopy and stand (I'm sure you know what I mean).

yeah I know what ya mean. seems like this thing is sort of evolving on its own sometimes.

the stand is still at the welders, I have to get him back on track from time to time lol he means well but when he shows me his "ideas" I have to explain why I want it the way I want it.

Anyhow no mater I have a lot to do downstairs yet, but it would be fun to start playing with that OM.

The total system volume is about 1500 gallons before rock and sand.

500 gallons refugiums
600 gallons reservoir
280 gallons main tank
150 gallons sump
40 gallon frag tank.

I took down one of the refugiums, I was going to make it a frag tank but I ended up getting a good deal on a 16x12x56 tank so it is going to be the frag tank. I have not picked it up yet. I will get it when my refugium covers are done.

I doubt seriously I will have the tank in place before July. But taking my time now will save on a lot of headache later.

Oh well time to go sniff some more glue I guess, I will post more pics soon

[NewMariner]

So is that resevoir tank just going to be full of saltwater? No sand, rocks or anything? What kind of movement are thinking is going to be in there? Id be curious about that as if its not enough flow that water will become oxygenless...


P.S. Have you built your fuge covers yet? Im anxious to see how those are going to work.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NewMariner
So is that resevoir tank just going to be full of saltwater? No sand, rocks or anything? What kind of movement are thinking is going to be in there? Id be curious about that as if its not enough flow that water will become oxygenless...


P.S. Have you built your fuge covers yet? Im anxious to see how those are going to work.

No I have not picked them up yet; Chris at Midwest Custom Aquariums is making them. I am guessing they will be done by this weekend.

Did you look at the plumbing pictures of the reservoirs?

Not only is it being recirculated by a Sequence hammerhead but they are the return for a MRC-3 skimmer (each reservoir will have their own skimmer) I doubt seriously in the extreme that oxygen will ever be a problem.

once I get the lower level going I will monitor the DO level to see how I am doing :)

[Lunchbucket]

ok i will HAVE to come see this system next time i come to see Geshields, Energy, and JG24.

Lunchbucket

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by Lunchbucket
ok i will HAVE to come see this system next time i come to see Geshields, Energy, and JG24.

Lunchbucket

you mean I have to clean my house AND work on this thing :)

[Lunchbucket]

you don't have to clean the house...well you NEED to have it done. :D

Lunchbucket

[Northside Reef]

good plan :lol:

[NewMariner]

Sorry missed the plumbing pics on the inside of the resevoir. :D

Is it just gonna be full of water or you gonna have any rock in there for filtration or anything?

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NewMariner
Sorry missed the plumbing pics on the inside of the resevoir. :D

Is it just gonna be full of water or you gonna have any rock in there for filtration or anything?

no I do not want anything collecting in there it will just recirculate, skim, and overfill back to the sump.

They are made of HDPE :lol: so I guess it’s my starboard reservoir :D

[EmergencyDpt]

Great work. Can I ask why three skimmers and not just one big one? I mean, I know why...my motto is "if some is good, more is better" but just cleaning my two small ones is kind of a pain. Will they all be close to eachother?
Keep up the pics, please.

[EmergencyDpt]

Great work. Can I ask why three skimmers and not just one big one? I mean, I know why...my motto is "if some is good, more is better" but just cleaning my two small ones is kind of a pain. Will they all be close to eachother?
Keep up the pics, please.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by EmergencyDpt
Great work. Can I ask why three skimmers and not just one big one? I mean, I know why...my motto is "if some is good, more is better" but just cleaning my two small ones is kind of a pain. Will they all be close to eachother?
Keep up the pics, please.

Hi,

It is only 2 skimmers, one on each of the two reservoirs.

The idea is to let the DSB's, macro algae, and live rock clean the water before I return it to the tank.
Water that makes it to the reservoirs is recirculated (this keeps detritus suspended) and cleaned via the skimmers.

I have a small refugium set up on my 125. There is a very wide range of micro fauna that thrives in that refugium that helps supply the main tank with live food. As well as help with nutrient export.
I decided I like the way that system works and I wanted to try it on a large scale.

I guess my main reason for doing this the way I am is because I thought it would be something fun to try, and it sure can’t hurt anything :)

[merlock116]

that big reservoir you've got, you might want to consider putting a closed loop pump that's plumbed to spray the entire bottom. Occasionally, you can isolate the reservoir w/ some ball valves, turn on the closed loop pump, and then drop in a small pump that goes to a filter sock, which of course drains back into the reservoir.

I get a lot of detritus that collects in my sump... can't imagine how much will collect in your giant reservoir.

[merlock116]

maybe plumb an eductor on that closed loop to so you can use a smaller pressure rated pump or something to kick up the detritus.

[sidewinder770]

Northside-

here is a pic of the linear actuator I told you about- I referenced it with a coke bottle so you can get an idea of the size.
http://www.systemsu.com/reeftank/linear.jpg

You'll like the 4way- I had to hook that up and play with it the day I got it. That's the only water my tank has seen yet and it's a very cool device. Paul make some good stuff.

July huh? I am hoping for August myself! It's hard to wait but just like you I want to make sure it gets done right the first time and there just isn't enough time in the day to get everything you want done accomplished. I have a whole spare bedroom full of acyrlic, pumps, airconditioners, ducting, plumbing, electrical, you name it just ready to be intstalled if I could ony find the time.

It will be nice to see one of us finish 'on time' so keep it up ! :)

[marinelife]

This is great, I am glad to see what you are doing, I have a 180 main sytem with a few Rubbermaid tub connected to it, They are a good cheap way to go. You can not beat the price of them, I am currently looking at changing out my 75 sump for a 300 gallon tub. What all will you have in the tubs?

[NOLACLS]

Wow that actuator is big huh. Cant wait to see it up on your tank :cool:

[SaltyPugs]

Are you married? I don't know many women that would take this in stride.......if you are married, please proceed to Tiffany and Co. and get her something that has a carat weight:D

[fish_taste_good]

Great setup. I cant wait to see this up.

On a side note: You mentioned the eBay RO/DI units, and i did not see too many replies about them. They are excellent, IMO. I am posting a link to a thread I started a few months ago that is pretty informative. I would reccommend reading it because I am a nit picky person and asked alot of questions about them. Some, I am sure you will already know the answers to, but some you may not.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=556066

Hope this helps.

[melev]

Scott, thanks for the picture. How does it work? Does a piston extend from that main shaft, to lift up what is connected to the eyelet?

[sidewinder770]

melev- I answered on the other thread as well but just in case-

You can't really see it in the picture but there is a mounting hole on the back- basically where the back of the piston would be. The gold colored eye on the front of the shaft (that you can see in the picture) is where you mount it in the front. In the picture above it is fully retracted and it had a 10" throw if I remember correctly. I think the whole unit is 18" retracted and 28" extended. You got the basic idea- it's a piston that extends from the main body 10". HTH

Sorry Northside- didn't mean to get your thread off on this tangent

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by merlock116
that big reservoir you've got, you might want to consider putting a closed loop pump that's plumbed to spray the entire bottom. Occasionally, you can isolate the reservoir w/ some ball valves, turn on the closed loop pump, and then drop in a small pump that goes to a filter sock, which of course drains back into the reservoir.

I get a lot of detritus that collects in my sump... can't imagine how much will collect in your giant reservoir.

Hi, there is a CL already on the reservoir

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/reservoirCL.jpg

after driving the becket on the MRC-3 I should still have about 2400 GPH for the recirculation of the reservoir.

only practice will tell for sure if that will be enough to keep detritus from building in the reservoir.


Originally posted by marinelife
This is great, I am glad to see what you are doing, I have a 180 main sytem with a few Rubbermaid tub connected to it, They are a good cheap way to go. You can not beat the price of them, I am currently looking at changing out my 75 sump for a 300 gallon tub. What all will you have in the tubs?

I plan to use macro algae, live rock and live sand in the refugiums.
I have been reading Steve Tyree's book on the use of live sponges as a filtration method. it is an interesting thought, I am not sure how I will go in that regard.

Originally posted by fish_taste_good
Great setup. I cant wait to see this up.

On a side note: You mentioned the eBay RO/DI units, and i did not see too many replies about them. They are excellent, IMO. I am posting a link to a thread I started a few months ago that is pretty informative. I would reccommend reading it because I am a nit picky person and asked alot of questions about them. Some, I am sure you will already know the answers to, but some you may not.


I purchased one from a RC member who has been a great, great help in my quest for knowledge on captive reef systems :)

Originally posted by sidewinder770
melev- I answered on the other thread as well but just in case-

You can't really see it in the picture but there is a mounting hole on the back- basically where the back of the piston would be. The gold colored eye on the front of the shaft (that you can see in the picture) is where you mount it in the front. In the picture above it is fully retracted and it had a 10" throw if I remember correctly. I think the whole unit is 18" retracted and 28" extended. You got the basic idea- it's a piston that extends from the main body 10". HTH

Sorry Northside- didn't mean to get your thread off on this tangent

No problem at all Scott. There is a lot of interest in that actuator by quite a few of us. I went ahead and purchased one to play with as well.

[marinelife]

I have been reading the same thing about the sponge filter and also maybe do it in one of my tanks.

[Northside Reef]

has anyone ever used this type of check valve?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/wyecheck.jpg

it's $100.00 for a 2" but if it works it will be well worth it.

those crappy ones from HD are next to worthless IMO

[Bryan89]

I had a check exactly like that on my 55 gallon tank. Works great if you clean it every couple of weeks and do not get any material in the valve seat. If not, it leaks water backwards. IMHO and IME check valves are not my way to go, they are very risky. What are you planning on doing with the check valves?

[Sonia Taro]

I have used on and it worked well but I had to clean algea out of it on a weekly basis. The clear body is not the best design. If budget allows, you may want do do a redundant check valve set-up.

[stevedola]

Bryan, if you dont use check valves...then what do you use?

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by Bryan89
I had a check exactly like that on my 55 gallon tank. Works great if you clean it every couple of weeks and do not get any material in the valve seat. If not, it leaks water backwards. IMHO and IME check valves are not my way to go, they are very risky. What are you planning on doing with the check valves?

I am pretty sure my sump can handle the volume if I lose power and the water flows back, I was just hoping for a bit of insurance.
In the words of Scotty “I can’t defy the laws of physics captain”.

I will just have to wait and see when I get that far. Thanks for the feed back guys.

[melev]

Originally posted by sidewinder770
melev- I answered on the other thread as well but just in case-

You can't really see it in the picture but there is a mounting hole on the back- basically where the back of the piston would be. The gold colored eye on the front of the shaft (that you can see in the picture) is where you mount it in the front. In the picture above it is fully retracted and it had a 10" throw if I remember correctly. I think the whole unit is 18" retracted and 28" extended. You got the basic idea- it's a piston that extends from the main body 10". HTH

Sorry Northside- didn't mean to get your thread off on this tangent

I can't make up my mind. Since I'm making columns on each end of my tank, I could use counterbalances that drop within the columns, completely out of sight and yet holding the canopy up nicely. I'm looking forward to both of your opinions of this device, but may just go with my original plan after all.

The good thing is that if I put the pulley system at each end of my L-shaped canopy, it is less likely to twist and bind. At least in theory. :D

[integlikewhoa]

Steve i too do not use check valves on my 125. I have a close loop which means there is nothing to worry about there and on my return, my outlets are just below the surface so the level in the tank drops less then 1/2 inch (My sump level rises around 2-3 inchs. i have a 50 gallon sump). When i didnt have a closed loop i just drilled a small hole in the line just below the waters surface as it goes into the tank. This just breaks the sipion.

[AcroSteve]

You should consider some of the ones Custom Aquatic sells.

http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=pf-cv-tu

Very nice valves.

I would not use one that has any metal in it.

[Bryan89]

An alternative to check valves is system design. While not always possible, it is IMO and IME much safer and usually easier to utilize small siphon breaks on lines versus check valves. A siphon break is a 1/16" (or slightly larger) hole drilled into the side of a pipe that will uncover as soon as a pump is turned off to allow air back into the return line and therefore "break" the siphon from a lower point, such as a sump to tank return when the sump is lower than the tank.

A siphon break is a passive device that does not need to move/reposition to work. An active device like a check valve needs to move to work. Siphon breaks also can and do fail, I'd recommend two of them at 180 degrees apart of 3 at 120 apart to prevent snails and debris from preventing operation of the siphon break. J

Just my Engineer mindset 2 cents, but IME the check valves used in aquariums are cheap and likely to fail at the worst time. To be effective a check valve must seal completely; any leakage will still drain your tank to the siphon point.

HTH

Bryan

[barnacle bill]

How much budweiser did you go through building all that? Looks good! The tank too!:D

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by Bryan89
An alternative to check valves is system design. While not always possible, it is IMO and IME much safer and usually easier to utilize small siphon breaks on lines versus check valves. A siphon break is a 1/16" (or slightly larger) hole drilled into the side of a pipe that will uncover as soon as a pump is turned off to allow air back into the return line and therefore "break" the siphon from a lower point, such as a sump to tank return when the sump is lower than the tank.

A siphon break is a passive device that does not need to move/reposition to work. An active device like a check valve needs to move to work. Siphon breaks also can and do fail, I'd recommend two of them at 180 degrees apart of 3 at 120 apart to prevent snails and debris from preventing operation of the siphon break. J

Just my Engineer mindset 2 cents, but IME the check valves used in aquariums are cheap and likely to fail at the worst time. To be effective a check valve must seal completely; any leakage will still drain your tank to the siphon point.

HTH

Bryan

Hi, Bryan
It is not the water siphoning from the tank I am trying to stop. it is the 35' horizontal travel and 14' vertical travel before I get to the tank I was trying to keep from flowing back

that is only about 10 gallons of water (hose diameter is 2") the sump holds 187 gallons I will be about the 150 gallon mark in the sump I should be safe.

I just wanted the check valve as a "just in case something went wrong" insurance policy :)

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by barnacle bill
How much budweiser did you go through building all that? Looks good! The tank too!:D

the final total has not been calculated :D

[Bryan89]

Northside - That is why I asked the what do you want the check valve for question; sounds like ya got it under control. :D

[moumda]

I found out that small holes used to break siphons can fail. They have to be reamed out to prevent plugging with algea or debris. Kind of a wet lesson:).

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
the final total has not been calculated :D

Final...as in your going to stop at some point:rollface:

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NOLACLS
Final...as in your going to stop at some point:rollface:

:lol: we can't live forever :D

[700GalStarfire]

I say that because I would NEVER let me husband put all that in my laundry room and make it so hard to do laundry!

With that said he DOES have a room dedicated to his 700 Gallon Reef tank, so I am not a total control freak as some would think. Just come on, don't make my life too difficult or you'll never hear the end of it! LOL!

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by 700GalStarfire
I say that because I would NEVER let me husband put all that in my laundry room and make it so hard to do laundry!

With that said he DOES have a room dedicated to his 700 Gallon Reef tank, so I am not a total control freak as some would think. Just come on, don't make my life too difficult or you'll never hear the end of it! LOL!


I am pretty sure I would have much larger issues if I told my wife the laundry room was “hers” :D

[JustOneMoreTank]

I agree as well. The laundry room is "ours" at this house. :)

[VegasMike]

No, no, no, you've got it all wrong. The fish room is mine. The REST of the house is hers.:D

[ftlaud101]

I wish I had a basement............javascript:smilie(':)')
smile

[JustOneMoreTank]

Ohhh right... I thought the house was for both of you and then the fish room was yours and the laundry room was hers. :)

[NOLACLS]

The laundry room is my wife's...and she claims that. She wont even let me touch any of the close except to pick my folded stuff up....ohhh the agony :lol:

She did say that the tank room is mine and I can do what ever...hence why there is a 6x3x2 tank that will go from the floor to the ceiling in a 10x10x8 room :lol: Not to mention the hole in the wall I will make to hook up my pumps/chiller outside next to the house.

[highlands]

Originally posted by redpyro
remember mr.4000 humidity destroyed that guys house

Details, details, please...! What happend exactly? I have read his (no defunct) web site using the way back machine in the internet archives but I would love to hear updated details on what happened to the tank, him, house, etc...

I am planning to build a new house (stone & concrete) and in the center of it plan to do a very large reef tank. There will be windows to each of the major rooms from the tank. The reef tank will not be open to the house in an effort to control humidity. I am finding very little information on very large tanks, especially those made of concrete with glazing panel portals.

Soo... what happened to Mr. 4000? Details?!? Other pointers to other large tanks? (esp. if made of concrete and glass but any appreciated!)

-Walter
in Vermont
on a mountain
in the sunshine

[wonrib00]

Basically, Mr. 4000 had a large tank in his basement that had no ventelation. The humidity ate away the wood that was directly above the tank.

[ACD]

This is such an intense project.
I am definitely on the ride for this one.
Keep us posted and thanks for sharing!!

acd

[highlands]

Originally posted by wonrib00
Basically, Mr. 4000 had a large tank in his basement that had no ventelation. The humidity ate away the wood that was directly above the tank.

Hmm... so where is he now? His site is gone.

[Lunchbucket]

he is OUT of the hobby. he stated that NOTHING would compare to the 4000gallon tank...and he can't afford or couldn't do it...so he is out

Lunchbucket

[Northside Reef]

Hey guys, here are a few pics of the stand with the linear actuator installed and working :)

Front down

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P5170030.jpg">

Front up

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/P5170031.jpg">

Side down

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/sidedown.jpg">

Side up

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/sideup.jpg">
a couple of close ups of the actuator

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/closeup2.jpg">

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/closeup1.jpg">

[Northside Reef]

Tomorrow I pick up the covers for the refugiums. I will get some pics of those, before and after gaskets are installed. I am not sure if I will be able to post them tomorrow or not a friend asked to use the camera he may pick it up tomorrow as well.

I was really hoping to have this system up by July, but things are looking like I won’t make it. I still need to cure between 300-400 pounds of live rock and I would really like to let that rock set in QT for a while before I move on with the rest of the build.

I will post pictures as things progress.

Oh yeah the MR-3 should be here any day so I will have one of the reservoirs fully functioning soon

[AquariumObsessed]

Where did you buy those actuators?

thanks

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by AquariumObsessed
Where did you buy those actuators?

thanks

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=329-300

if this thing holds up it is a steal at this price :)

[maxvan1]

Thats awsome!!! How many lbs can it lift?

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by maxvan1
Thats awsome!!! How many lbs can it lift?

1300 lbs

[maxvan1]

How fast does it open/close?

[Northside Reef]

It is very slow, the 5 or so inches it has to extend take about 10 seconds, (guessing I did not time it) but it is only to access deep inside the tank for things like landscaping and cleaning. the front will have a hinged door for everyday tasks.

[steve68]

Thats SWEET
im going to buy one
thanks
:beer:

[NwG]

WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU THINKING!!!! No really that stand is SWEET!!!! I wish I lived closer, I would love to be a part of that project!!
Nate D

[Northside Reef]

can you guys tell me are these the right bulbs for over the refugium.

anyone know if this is a good price?

http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/PROD/Reflectors/1P381951

http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/PROD/Reflectors/1R401951

I am not too sure how these two differ other then size

[melev]

That is awesome! I love it. It really is tempting to get one to raise and lower my future canopy door. Are you going to wire it like Scott said, with a normal switch instead of that wired controller? My door needs to rise 12" I believe, and the actuator only moves it 10". Hmmm.

The two bulbs are quite similar, but I'd probably get the non-dimpled one. Or get one of each, and try them both. Neither lists the PAR rating, so all you can go with is wattage and spectrum. Both are the same.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by melev
That is awesome! I love it. It really is tempting to get one to raise and lower my future canopy door. Are you going to wire it like Scott said, with a normal switch instead of that wired controller? My door needs to rise 12" I believe, and the actuator only moves it 10". Hmmm.

The two bulbs are quite similar, but I'd probably get the non-dimpled one. Or get one of each, and try them both. Neither lists the PAR rating, so all you can go with is wattage and spectrum. Both are the same.

Marc, the way I have the actuator installed it is only extending about 5" to move the front of the canopy nearly 2'

I am only going to make a couple of slight modifications to the actuator.

the power supply only has about a 6" cable (to plug into the motor) so I will splice that to make it fit under the stand.

I like the controller that came with the unit just fine. Except I think I am going to reverse the polarity of the motor leads because the way the controller is attached to the cord the natural way you hold it in your hand the up and down arrows face the wrong way.

On the bulbs I am undecided 2 or 3 per refugium?

[Taniaza1]

Northside, you need to rename this thread "MonsterReef"!!!
I love following this thread and seeing your project develop. Brilliant idea on the actuators.

Tania

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by Taniaza1
Northside, you need to rename this thread "MonsterReef"!!!
I love following this thread and seeing your project develop. Brilliant idea on the actuators.

Tania

Thank you Tania but the idea belongs to Scott (Sidewinder)
he suggested the actuator :)

[melev]

I understand what you are saying, but my canopy will slide straight up, basically like a garage door or perhaps a better comparison would be a butler's pantry. I want the door to go right up, then come right back down. The plan is to use heavy duty drawer guides at each end, similar to a file cabinet. If I install counter weights from the canopy door to a spot in the fish room, or perhaps within the two columns hugging the tank, it will result in a virtually weightless canopy. This device would eliminate the need for counter weights.

[Northside Reef]

I will get the manufacturers name and number for you, I am sure they make more then one model :)

the stand is with the welder I will have to look tomorrow.

I saw a US number right on the motor so we should be good to go.

[melev]

Did you ever make enough water for this system? ;)

[Northside Reef]

I have 600 gallons made so far I want to do a bit more work on the decks before I fill the refugiums.

BTW the RO/DI works awesome thank you!!

[melev]

:) I figured by now you were filling your swimming pool.

[Northside Reef]

lol ya know I think when this is all done I could've had a swimming pool instead :)

Don't tell the kids

[steve68]

Can u add extensions to the piston ?

[STACKER]

Killer! All the ghetto reefers are green with envy. I wish I had the space for a second fuge! LOL

[sidewinder770]

Okay...the canopy and actuator definately looks nice- the stand looks great as well. I think I'm going to have to stop giving out my secrets- you are getting them done and functional before I am and that's just not right. :) kidding of course- I'm just glad someone else found my ideas useful and your tank is coming along great.

Looks like you will be able to open the canopy pretty far if you wanted to- how much farther will it go? Mine will be a little different as my actuator will only open the front of my canopy but I'm glad to see it works.

So when do you plan on having your stand powdercoated? I kind of figured you'd have that done already.

I see your completion date of July got bumped...I was hoping for July at first but it hit me very quickly that July was a pipe dream for me....August will be tight but with any luck it will be done by then- we'll probably be finished fairly close to the same time.

Keep the pics coming!

[thrlride]

That tub is MASSIVE compared to that washing machine!

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by sidewinder770
Okay...the canopy and actuator definately looks nice- the stand looks great as well. I think I'm going to have to stop giving out my secrets- you are getting them done and functional before I am and that's just not right. :) kidding of course- I'm just glad someone else found my ideas useful and your tank is coming along great.

Looks like you will be able to open the canopy pretty far if you wanted to- how much farther will it go? Mine will be a little different as my actuator will only open the front of my canopy but I'm glad to see it works.

So when do you plan on having your stand powdercoated? I kind of figured you'd have that done already.

I see your completion date of July got bumped...I was hoping for July at first but it hit me very quickly that July was a pipe dream for me....August will be tight but with any luck it will be done by then- we'll probably be finished fairly close to the same time.

Keep the pics coming!

Yeah thanks again Scott for the idea, it works pretty slick :).

I could open the canopy farther then I would ever need it too, I just did not want to push those tack welds for the photo shot.

I won't powder coat the stand until I am sure it is done, (like welding in the brackets to hold that actuator).

I hope I am done in August lol but I ain't making any promises :D

That tub is MASSIVE compared to that washing machine!

325 gallons :)

[melev]

Is there any risk that having vast amounts of water will actually deplete oxygen levels, unless the surface is rippling in all containers? I'm looking at all the water in my return section of my sump, and it is very serene. Hmmmm.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by melev
Is there any risk that having vast amounts of water will actually deplete oxygen levels, unless the surface is rippling in all containers? I'm looking at all the water in my return section of my sump, and it is very serene. Hmmmm.

I am not sure Marc, but DO is something I will monitor as a few folks have brought that question up, so it's something I should be able to answer.
Personally I think I will have enough flow in the main tank to keep oxygen at adequate levels, but I can always add something to give me good surface movement in the refugiums if need be.

The information I have on the actuator is:
Venture MFG. CO.
937/233-6842
Model # FD24-A1-427.673

The stroke of the unit I have is 246mm looks like you need around 305mm for your application.

[melev]

How are you going to measure dissolved oxygen? Yet another gizmo? ;) Or do you plan to use the Orp probe in an Aqua Controller? I don't even have one hooked up because the readings were so screwy.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by melev
How are you going to measure dissolved oxygen? Yet another gizmo? ;) Or do you plan to use the Orp probe in an Aqua Controller? I don't even have one hooked up because the readings were so screwy.


http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SAT111&Category_Code=Salifert

[Northside Reef]

IS this as cool as it seems? I think I really want one

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/aqua3Pro.jpg">

is there a different one (maybe cheaper) that I could get a link to?

[melev]

Yep, that is the most expensive gizmo out there currently. ;)

I have the Aqua Controller II.

[Northside Reef]

WOW! ok this is quite an investment the DO probe is $419.. alone, can anyone who has used one of these give some information on the company that makes them? What is the warranty and how reliable are they?

[Northside Reef]

ah cool Marc you use one how do you like it?

[melev]

Here, this might help a tad.

http://www.melevsreef.com/aquacontroller.html

http://www.neptunesys.com/

[priorityreefman]

You should design sewer systems.

[Northside Reef]

OK I am pretty sure I need one :) PM me if you do not give this unit a :thumbsup:

[melev]

I noticed that the AQ Jr was at a great price, and would do pretty much what I demand of my AQ II right now.

Matter of fact :mad:, I paid $185 to have mine repaired, and that one brand new was less? Argh!

[Northside Reef]

It may be a better option to go with a smaller AQ and then get a separate DO monitor.
I will give it some time to mull it over, meantime I can still use the Salifert test kit.

[Lunchbucket]

northside - IMO the ACIII (new one) isn't that much more functional then the older ACII (the one marc AND i have.) AC's ROCK!!!! they really really do but it all depends on what you need it to monitor. you can get the JR if you need just basic temp and ph and take care of ALL of your timers (lights, pump, etc) and it will keep track of ALL those vitals and put them in graphs or you can add values also. aquanotes (the software) is NICE

i have an ACII. the regular one...not the pro...i think the pro does DO and something else...but i will NEVER need that. mine does ORP, pH, Temp, and all the other "normal" stuff.

there are other companies that do make other things that are sort of the same...one Italian company makes something some people were getting recently...don't rememeber what it is called.

lots and lots of AC's out there w/ VERY little complants. it is more of the x10 control moduals that people find finiky sometimes

later
Lunchbucket

[GregM779]

I didn't see that you can hook the JR to the PC to monitor things. I think that is one of the best features, being able to go away and having peace of mind by checking on the tank every once in a while.

[NOLACLS]

Hey north side check this one out on here http://www.aquariumobsessed.com/ under the NEW section. He said those are MSRP prices and he can do package deals. Seems nifty and has no x10's to mess with.

[Northside Reef]

The one thing that would concern me about that unit is that it is made in Italy. Would I have US customer support? and who will fix it if it breaks?

BTW did you see the actuator pics?

[NOLACLS]

I would send Will a e mail and ask him...there might be someone close to fix it if need be. Worth looking into if the price is right...it does some really cool things.

I did see the super cool actuator pics :cool: That thing is very slick!!!!

[Toomnymods]

can't wait to see more pics :P

[sidewinder770]

You going to beat me to the punch on that one too :). I will be getting the ACIII next week. I liked it over the previous versions because you can monitor all your system information over the web....and since I am an IT guy I find that funtion very useful and cool to play around with. It will email you of problems and you can even turn on/off lights, pumps, etc remotely. I will be hooking it up to our existing 55 gallon tank to play around with and test and will hook it up to the new tank once it's up and running.

I think it will be worth it but it is pricey- I got mine for $920 which came with the lab grade ORP and PH probe and temp probe as well as the command module for X10. I didn't get any x10 modules for it beacuse I have x10 modules that replace existing wall outlets- much cleaner looking.

I could use a "test version" of aquanotes if anyone happens to have one laying around ;)

[Northside Reef]

oh nice price Scott where did you get it?

[sidewinder770]

Here's where I got it-

http://aquadirect.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=1091&cat=92&page=1

I think we have a problem when we say- "oh that's a good deal" on parts for our system that cost less than $1000....seems like erevy piece of this system cost more than $1000 !! :).

Are you going to be running ozone? If not than you probably don't need the ORP probe.

[MadTownMax]

I don't see why everyone was showing concern over Dissolved Oxygen - with three refugiums you should have plenty of oxygen being pumped into the system, along w/ the skimmers, as you've previously stated.

Northside, very nice system, too bad all those posts at the start weren't encouraging - they either don't understand what you're doing, or are just plain jealous.

I've used a similar control system (the octopus 3000) and I know that the AC is much better, if only for it's flexibility and computer connection - do beware of controlling things with it though - random electrical surges and signals in the air are known to "trip" the sensors and do some kinda funny things - only not so funny when it shuts down (or turns on at the wrong time) critical components of your system - I think they're great as watchdogs, but I wouldn't use it to control anything, just to monitor.

[melev]

Originally posted by sidewinder770
You going to beat me to the punch on that one too :). I will be getting the ACIII next week. I liked it over the previous versions because you can monitor all your system information over the web....and since I am an IT guy I find that funtion very useful and cool to play around with. It will email you of problems and you can even turn on/off lights, pumps, etc remotely. I will be hooking it up to our existing 55 gallon tank to play around with and test and will hook it up to the new tank once it's up and running.

I think it will be worth it but it is pricey- I got mine for $920 which came with the lab grade ORP and PH probe and temp probe as well as the command module for X10. I didn't get any x10 modules for it beacuse I have x10 modules that replace existing wall outlets- much cleaner looking.

I could use a "test version" of aquanotes if anyone happens to have one laying around ;)

Scott, something that is a real concern to me is the fact that there are people out there that want nothing more than to hurt other people. Any chance someone could hack into your system and cause havoc with your system. I mean, once command to turn on the heaters... :eek2:

And I have to say, if you pay almost $1000, you SHOULD get the software included. I don't agree with Neptune Systems about charging for it. It just seems wrong to me. If he's doing software updates and creating releases monthly, I might be more understanding, but this is a ton of money and software should be included imho.

[sidewinder770]

Melev-
Couldn't agree more- I think aquanotes software should be included as well but oh well. It's not needed to run the controller or access it over the internet- it's just for logging and tracking of all the paramaters(and graphs of each)- you basically get a history where with the free software you only get "realtime". Un authorized access is definately a concern as well to which I have only one answer- encryption! I'm sure there is some type of user name and password on the controller itself as well but a good firewall, network protection and encryption will be on it as well.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by MadTownMax
I don't see why everyone was showing concern over Dissolved Oxygen - with three refugiums you should have plenty of oxygen being pumped into the system, along w/ the skimmers, as you've previously stated.

Northside, very nice system, too bad all those posts at the start weren't encouraging - they either don't understand what you're doing, or are just plain jealous.

I've used a similar control system (the octopus 3000) and I know that the AC is much better, if only for it's flexibility and computer connection - do beware of controlling things with it though - random electrical surges and signals in the air are known to "trip" the sensors and do some kinda funny things - only not so funny when it shuts down (or turns on at the wrong time) critical components of your system - I think they're great as watchdogs, but I wouldn't use it to control anything, just to monitor.

Thanks, Madtown I think that this system is just so different than what most people are used to seeing that I guess I should have expected the skepticism.
I agree that the system should be able to keep up with the oxygen demands, but since calculating that is beyond my means I will monitor it so I can eliminate that as a possible problem.

Originally posted by melev
Scott, something that is a real concern to me is the fact that there are people out there that want nothing more than to hurt other people. Any chance someone could hack into your system and cause havoc with your system. I mean, once command to turn on the heaters... :eek2:

And I have to say, if you pay almost $1000, you SHOULD get the software included. I don't agree with Neptune Systems about charging for it. It just seems wrong to me. If he's doing software updates and creating releases monthly, I might be more understanding, but this is a ton of money and software should be included imho.

Having access to your system parameters when you’re not home is not something a person would normally need, unless they travel a lot or are going on vacation. I still have to decide which one of the two AC units I want. I have to read a little more on what other differences there are between the models.

I agree about the software these things are not cheap you would think it would come with software.



Originally posted by sidewinder770
Here's where I got it-

http://aquadirect.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=1091&cat=92&page=1

I think we have a problem when we say- "oh that's a good deal" on parts for our system that cost less than $1000....seems like erevy piece of this system cost more than $1000 !! :).

Are you going to be running ozone? If not than you probably don't need the ORP probe.

Thank you for the link Scott

I hear ya on the cost of things man, but just think how fun these systems are going to be to tweak in the coming years :) it will be worth it.

I do not plan to run Ozone even though I do own a unit. My ORP is always around 330 not so great maybe I should fire it up :) I will wait and see how the new systems does in that regard.

do the AC units take standard probes?

[Northside Reef]

I got the covers in today... oh man Chris at Midwest Custom Aquariums did a fantastic job on them.

http://midwestcustomaquariums.com/

they are super beefy and fit like a glove even without the gaskets. Sorry ya have to wait till Monday to see them the camera is out of town :)

I think when you guys see them you will understand why I said that humidity will not be an issue.

[sidewinder770]

Originally posted by Northside Reef


do the AC units take standard probes?

I'm not sure but if I had to guess I would say no as the probes for the AC2 don't work in the AC III- at least that's what I've been told. I think the "PRO" models are different than the regular models and I imagine one of them takes standard probes but I'm not sure which. It didn't concern me too much because I don't have any probes now so I would need some anyway.

Originally posted by Northside Reef


Having access to your system parameters when you’re not home is not something a person would normally need, unless they travel a lot or are going on vacation.

Unless you just like to check it once in a while at work because you have nothing better to do:)

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by sidewinder770


Unless you just like to check it once in a while at work because you have nothing better to do:)

Who would ever do such a thing:rolleye1:


:lol:

[Northside Reef]

Well not a lot of progress to report.

I had a small drip/leak on one of the reservoirs. Lucky me it was between the reservoir and the ball valve, so that's almost 300 gallons of RO/DI I have to pump out to fix.
The rest of the plumbing looks real good no leaks at all even after running a few days.
I have some people coming over to help with some woodwork this weekend so I should have the refugiums ready real soon.

I have my covers in (5 of them) and gasketed they look awesome, here are a few pictures of those so you can get an idea of what I have been talking about.

Here is the whole cover gasketed

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/gasket.jpg">

close up of the gasket

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/gasketcloseup.jpg">

here it is on the refugium.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/refugiumandcover.jpg">

you can really see how well the gasket follows the contour of the refugium. The material I used for this application is the same material used for years by electrical enclosure manufacturers like Hoffman and Rittal to pass Nema 4 spray down tests.

This is a test where hundreds of gallons of water per minute are sprayed at an enclosure to ensure they wont leak.

here is a close up of the gasket on the refugium.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/covercloseup.jpg">

[Northside Reef]

I have to go out of town a few days, talk to ya all in a few :)

[NOLACLS]

Looking good man....looking real good!

[sidewinder770]

That's very cool- something tells me some other people with those rubbermaid containers are going to want to buy some from you so get your price sheet ready :). That will definately control the evap problem and really cut down on humidity.

[NOLACLS]

Will that allow for proper gas excange? I have no idea if thats even a concern there thats why I am asking.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by NOLACLS
Will that allow for proper gas excange? I have no idea if thats even a concern there thats why I am asking.

With over 12,000 GPH flow in the main tank and two MRC-3 Skimmers running, I honestly do not believe I am going to have a problem with dissolved oxygen. BUT I promise I will monitor it so I can give you a complete answer.

Scott, there would be no way to justify the cost of what I would have to charge for those gaskets lol so I won’t be taking any orders for them any time soon :).

[NOLACLS]

Originally posted by Northside Reef
With over 12,000 GPH flow in the main tank and two MRC-3 Skimmers running, I honestly do not believe I am going to have a problem with dissolved oxygen. BUT I promise I will monitor it so I can give you a complete answer.

Scott, there would be no way to justify the cost of what I would have to charge for those gaskets lol so I won’t be taking any orders for them any time soon :).

Thats true...I dont think it will be a problem either. I wasn't thinking about your total system :lol:

[Northside Reef]

another close up of the gasket (picked up a Nikon 4800 today so I am playing with it) :)


<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/DSCN0047.jpg">

[melev]

That lid looks very heavy. How thick is the acrylic?

[reefkeeper135]

good question Melev, so what does the cover weight? awsome set up by the way!!!!

[JustOneMoreTank]

Looks like that Acrylic is about 1/2 inch??? Wow :eek1:

[Northside Reef]

the cover is 1/4" the bracing is 3/4" I would guess it weighs about 20-25 pounds max.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by JustOneMoreTank
Looks like that Acrylic is about 1/2 inch??? Wow :eek1:

remember they are beefy for a reason these are what keep the water in the system and out of my house :)



ok really have to go see ya all on Thursday :).

I should have some cool pics for ya next time.

[Napoleon_K]

I don't know, so I'm asking.

Do those Rubbermaid tubs bulge when you fill them up with water?:rolleyes:

That could be a problem.

[gobygoby]

I have a question about your actuator for the canopy. I have actually been thinking about this idea for a couple of years now, i changed my R&D to an automatic stand skirt....anyway,
Are you going to put a light in the middle of the canopy, and if so how are you going to mount it with the actuator mounted in the middle?

Thanks
Goby

[JustOneMoreTank]

Napoleon_K... the very large Rubbermaid tubs pictured here do not "bulge" when filled with water. These units are very heavy duty and are meant to hold large volumes of water. The smaller tubs that are commonly carried at WalMart or Target of course will flex and bulge if filled with water. You have to find units that have a good bit of structure or ribbing to them.

[Northside Reef]

Originally posted by gobygoby
I have a question about your actuator for the canopy. I have actually been thinking about this idea for a couple of years now, i changed my R&D to an automatic stand skirt....anyway,
Are you going to put a light in the middle of the canopy, and if so how are you going to mount it with the actuator mounted in the middle?

Thanks
Goby

Hi, my lights are going to be on adjustable slides, right now I still am not sure what will be the best way to light the tank.
My current tank has 3 250w MH lights on it. I plan to do a sort of two isle look with the landscaping so the middle of the tank will have no rock work or very little. I am not sure the 250's will reach all the way to the bottom of the tank I may have to go with a 400 there.
You are right though the very center I can not put a light I will have to be just off to the side of center. This may mean 4 MH’s 1 on both ends and 2 offset either side of center.

I may go 400’s in the center at least that is the way I am leaning now. That would give me a spare 250 which will go over the frag tank.

[gobygoby]

ok, i see the light over is a pretty good idea. heres what I was thinking for my 180 with 3 pendants.
http://www.kbellair.com/canopysetup.JPG

[gobygoby]

ok, i see the light mover is a pretty good idea. heres what I was thinking for my 180 with 3 pendants.
http://www.kbellair.com/canopysetup.JPG

[A Reef Scene]

Are there any updates?

[bassman57]

Very Cool!!! :thumbsup: Any updates?

[melev]

Hey Frank, tell me again how you plan to skim all this water, when you get a chance. If this system adds up to 1300g, you'll need a skimmer capable of handling that water volume...

[sidewinder770]

OK- I finally updated my post so I figured I could now give you a little bit of a hard time about not updating yours :) . So how is it coming along? Hope to see some updates when you get time.

[druce]

okay, no I am sucked into this thread... update it please, been alomost a month since the last post

[IBASSFSH]

Northside Reef, what dimensions did you send to Chris for the Rubbermaid covers? I have a 100 gallon and a 70 gallon tank, and I want to order covers for both of them.

[Haab]

:thumbsup:

[gobygoby]

did you have to do anything special to the actuator to get it working??

I just got mine tonight and it came with the Taiwan male plug-in so I called the guys at parts express and they said it was fine to splice in the U.S. plug. When I press the buttons on the control the red LED lights up but no noise or movement in the actuator. I noticed a small screw on the actuator motor that can be adjusted, I assume this is for limiting? do you have to have the batteries hooked in to make this work? anyway, I didnt know if there is a secret to get it working. so far my doesnt do anything!:( :mad:

PS. mine didnt come with any instructions either.

Thanks
Goby

[Bebo77]

update?

[coryherby]

blahhh... just read the entire thread. and it just ends like that?

credit card run out?

[allen00se]

Man thats just weird, the guys last post says he has to go out of town, then the thread is never updated. Has anyone heard from him, after all he does live in the vegas desert??? You all know what happened to Danny Devito

[asnatlas]

If you check his history, he has not posted since 06/17/2005 at 10:41 PM...

His last post was in another thread he started...

Well, very bad news for my tank last night. (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=5151336)

[3rotorFD]

holy CRAP!:eek:

[3rotorFD]

oh NVM

[Nanook]

Bump!

[Northside Reef]

Well,

This project is back on the burner, a lot has happened since I started this thread. One of those things was getting remarried.

My wife and I are adding a couple of rooms to the house, one of those rooms will be a small addition behind the garage that will be my fishroom. I get a little nook in the house for the aquarium, which will be located just below where the fishroom will be.

I’ve been able to hang on to all of that old equipment I started with and it will be used on this build.

Before we decided to add the additions, we had to decide if this was going to be the house we would be keeping until we retire. Once that decision was made. I asked if I could revive the “big build”

So with my wife’s blessing I have hired the contractor to build the fishroom and the rest will follow as we put this thing together.


There’s really not much to see atm but I will get some pics of the fishroom as it goes up and the aquarium room as I get it ready.

It’s good to be back!! And yeah I will be leaning on some of the great advice here.

oh, and Thank You Nanook for getting this unstuck.

[Northside Reef]

Here are a couple drawings of the fishroom. It's not too big, and is tucked in behind the garage.

It is pretty tall though. I figure I will need the vertical space to pump the water up and let it flow down through all of the tanks.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/NorthFishroomREV1_Page_2.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/NorthFishroomREV1_Page_3.jpg

They start next week on it, I will get some shots of the spot it's going in to.

[wardworld]

Good to see this back in action...quite an interesting read....any sketches of your fish room lay-out or ideas you have for setting it up????

[Northside Reef]

I made some solid block drawings using solidworks to see how I would fit the large tanks and rubbermaid tubs into the fishroom. They're not fleshed out very well though. I will edit them and post them.

The old sump won't work. it won't fit under the stand and that's where I will need to put a sump. I am real limited on space where the tank is going to go.

that old sump is huge though so I will figure out some way to use it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/frnorth/Sump.jpg


that's a 100 gallon rubbermaid tub it's sitting on.