$200, my day off, and my new diy calcium reactor!

[WmTasker]

Well after much debate and lots of reading on RC (thread after thread), I finally put together a calcium reactor today.

Here is my supply list:

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor01.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


Milwakee Regulator $70 - Ebay
QuitOne 1200 pump $21 - Foster&Smith
ARM Reactor Media $16 - Champion Lighting
MaxiJet 1200 $20 - Champion Lighting
Reactor Chamber $55 - Lowes
John Guest Fittings $11 - Lowes
Assorted Hoses $3 - Lowes
Drill bit and Tap $13 - Lowes
PVC parts $3 - Lowes
Barb Fittings/clamps $3 - Lowes

CO2 tank $$Free$$ - Found in my father garage :)

The finished Product


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor21.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


I started out by glueing my pvs 1/2" thread to 1" slip adapters to the 45 degree elbows that had 1" slip on one end and 1" male threads on the other.


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor02.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor09.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


Next I used a 7/16th drill bit to drill one hole in one elbow and 2 in the other. I took my tap and threaded the holes to fit the 1/4" John Guest fittings. Two of the fittings are 1/4 to 1/4 and the other is 1/4 to 3/8. The 3/8 fitting is to supply water from the sump. I used this since the 3/8 hose made a better fit to the Maxijet 1200.

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor03.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor10.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)

To finish up the elbows. I attached the barb fittings to them. The barb fittings were 1/2 male thread to 5/8 barb.

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor04.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor11.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)

[WmTasker]

I then moved on to cutting the pipe for the inside of the reactor. I made the pipe 10 1/2 inches long. I used my chop saw and put about 6 slits on each side of the pipe for the water to flow through the arm media. I also put a little rubber gasket at the bottom of the pipe to help make a better fit.


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor12.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor13.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor15.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)

I then put the pipe in place, add media and closed it up. It held about 5 lbs of media. I hooked up the hoses just to make sure everything was were it should be.


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor16.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor17.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


I then made my adapters for the pump. I used two more barb fitting (like the ones from above) and two 1/2" thread to thread couplings. I want together like this.

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor18.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor19.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


I finished up bu cutting some 5/8 ID hose to length. I put them into place and put a few hose clamps on to make sure there was no leaks.


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor20.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor22.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


After getting everthing up and running. I found out I have a bad selinode on the regulator. So I called milwakee and they are sending my a new one. Cant wait to get it.

Hope everyone enjoyes this.

[Travis L. Stevens]

This is AWESOME. I love it. I wonder if there is any more budget crunching we can do to make it even cheaper

[WmTasker]

If theres a will theres a way. Im sure if you look hard enough and be patient, you can find parts cheaper than what I paid for them.

[stogie]

This looks really cool. Keep us updated on how this performs

[Purple Haze]

seems rather popular to get bad solenoid valves with the Milwaukee kit lately.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by Purple Haze
seems rather popular to get bad solenoid valves with the Milwaukee kit lately.

The guy there (Brian Moore) was really nice about the whole thing. He was going to put a new one out to me today in the mail. Im just disapointed that I didn't get it all up and running today.

[Picapet]

BRAGGER!! = o )

Tasker is da man...saw it firsthand... it is great!
Great Job William...
You get an A+ for the day and a star next to your name!

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by Picapet
BRAGGER!! = o )

Tasker is da man...saw it firsthand... it is great!
Great Job William...
You get an A+ for the day and a star next to your name!

To bad everyone doesn't have a neighbor like me. :)

<----- I like under your occupation where it says "seld employeed"

[Picapet]

ABout time someone NOTICED... that is the cross between SELF and Seldom...
Seld Employed!
Means I am SELF employed... But Seldom do a dang thing!
Thanks for noticing!

[8BALL_99]

Ok Thats it I'm building one of these.......Looks good

[NwG]

Really nice work... nice thing is you can make a seconed chamber really easy!!!

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by NwG
Really nice work... nice thing is you can make a seconed chamber really easy!!!

I have an old RO unit that I was planning on using for that. I just haven't put it together yet. Thats for my next day off with nothing to do.

[Richard Tester]

This is the SHIZNIT -- Is the chamber a water filer canister? It looks kind bigger than most I have seen. Excellent Idea man!

[Rivenjim]

quick question about the reactor chamber what was its origonal purpose that they were selling it at lowes for thanks in advance

[WmTasker]

The reactor chamber is in the water filtering department at lowes. Its made by wirlpool, and was orginally designed to be a whole house water fitler. It holds a little over a gallon of water. It was the biggest filter I have seen at any of the water / home improvement places.

[JCqtown]

Here you go.
link (http://www.whirlpool.com/catalog/product.jsp?src=WHOLE%20HOUSE%20WATER%20PRE-FILTRATIO&categoryId=174&productId=489)

Im searching to see how cheap I can find it online

[DONALDUGLYDUCK]

i see you went for the filter, the big 1 i think it will work better how much was it i want 1 next day off lol

[cloudancer]

That's a great DIY, I love it.

I've been putting off a Ca reactor because I haven't had time to invest in learning acrylic. Now I have no excuse and therefore will finally have to make one.

[TroyPierce]

Milwakee Regulator $70 - Ebay
QuitOne 1200 pump $21 - Foster&Smith
ARM Reactor Media $16 - Champion Lighting
MaxiJet 1200 $20 - Champion Lighting
Reactor Chamber $55 - Lowes
John Guest Fittings $11 - Lowes
Assorted Hoses $3 - Lowes
Drill bit and Tap $13 - Lowes
PVC parts $3 - Lowes
Barb Fittings/clamps $3 - Lowes

CO2 tank $$Free$$ - Found in my father garage


You forgot to add "Finally having a CA reactor - Priceless!"

Great job. When ya get your solenoid, give us an update on performance.

Did you add a bubble counter?

[SHOmuchFUN]

I have one of those filters laying around my place somewhere but the housing is white so you can't see inside it. If someone wants to buy it off me, send me a PM.

[houseofha]

ay updtae on the progress of this project? Rate of calcium etc?

House

[fishfood2581]

how much ARM does it hold?

[fishfood2581]

oops sorry i just saw 5lb

[Dragonmaster]

I just finished building one like yours! I got all the parts from sLowes. I was wondering if the housing is supposed to have a gasket for the lid? The only one they had left did not.

It took me about 2.5 Hrs. to build this thing. Your instructions are great and so is the concept! Great work!!

Thanks

[masterswimmer]

Fantastic job. Easy to follow instructions. Thanks for taking the time to take pix along the way.

Good question by TroyPierce, did you add, or can you add a bubble counter?

Thanks again for 'taking care of' the rest of us.

Russ

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by houseofha
ay updtae on the progress of this project? Rate of calcium etc?


Right now I am still waiting on the new silenode for the regulator. So I have been unable to start adding CO2. After I first set up the reactor, it had alot of air and made alot of noise due to the air getting sucked into the pump. When I woke up today, all the air was cleared out of the reactor and it was running really smooth. :) I can't wait to add CO2.


The reugulator by milwaukee has a built in bubble counter, so I didn't have to make it.

I am glad that everyone is enjoying my project. I have always loved reading about everyone elses DIY projects on RC.

DragonMaster .... The canister came with a big O-ring that sits on the rim on the clear canister. I would see if you can get one from Lowes. Just tell them you have it installed on you water pipe and don't want to take it apart. They should give you a o-ring from another box. Did you start your calcium reactor before you read this or did you just follow my directions? Post some pics of it if you get the chance.

On Wednesday, I am going to put a secound chamber on it. I will post pics of that also once I have finished it.

[jthnhale]

This is a great idea.
How important is it to see inside the chamber. I've heard most people replace the media every 6 months to a year regardless of the media level. Does seeing inside serve a purpose?
If not you could get housings here, http://www.waterfilterstore.net/cat.asp?i=40, and either get a larger housing for the money, or save a little on the same size one.

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
Right now I am still waiting on the new silenode for the regulator. So I have been unable to start adding CO2. After I first set up the reactor, it had alot of air and made alot of noise due to the air getting sucked into the pump. When I woke up today, all the air was cleared out of the reactor and it was running really smooth. :) I can't wait to add CO2.


The reugulator by milwaukee has a built in bubble counter, so I didn't have to make it.

I am glad that everyone is enjoying my project. I have always loved reading about everyone elses DIY projects on RC.

DragonMaster .... The canister came with a big O-ring that sits on the rim on the clear canister. I would see if you can get one from Lowes. Just tell them you have it installed on you water pipe and don't want to take it apart. They should give you a o-ring from another box. Did you start your calcium reactor before you read this or did you just follow my directions? Post some pics of it if you get the chance.

On Wednesday, I am going to put a secound chamber on it. I will post pics of that also once I have finished it.

Hey WmTasker!

Well I went to lowes, got the o ring and wala!! I got everything setup exactly the same as you except I used a mag 2 for circ.

When I got it running with the maxi and filled it and started the mag I watched for leaks and had none. This is where the problems started.

I got the Co2 running and it had so much back presser on the inlet that my bubble counter would start to go and then slow rapidly until it stopped. At this point water would start to fill the BC and push up through the Co2 inlet on the BC.

I messed with it until 10:30 last night and then shut it down. I'll try today to get it working. I think what might be happening is the circ pump is gaining back pressure and the placement of the Co2 inlet is before the 90 degree making it difficult for Co2 to enter.

If you have any suggestions I sure need them. Possibly moving the inlet to the top of the Reactor may fix it!

Thanks

Dragon

[WmTasker]

Jthnhale .... the link doesn't show anything. I looked around the site and didn't see anything..

Dragonmaster ... Do you have a pic you can post of it? Do you have the co2 going to the inlet or outlet side of the pump?

[jthnhale]

try this water filter store (http://www.waterfilterstore.net/index.asp).
This should open the home page, click on "housings", in the left hand menu.

[JCqtown]

Originally posted by WmTasker
Jthnhale .... the link doesn't show anything. I looked around the site and didn't see anything..


I just looked at the site... click on filter housing on the left hand side. The biggest clear one looks to be the same as the Whirlpool one with a black cap instead of a white one. $39 and $6 shipping. That's about $10 plus tax cheaper that lowes. When I get ready to build one, I'll try ordering from here.

Thanks for the link.

[WmTasker]

is this the one you all are talking about?

http://www.waterfilterstore.net/global/productpics/m/FH4200CB34-1_m.jpg

It only hold a standard filter cartridge. The one I got holds a 4.5" filter cartridge. Lowes has the same canister as the above one from like $15.

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
Jthnhale .... the link doesn't show anything. I looked around the site and didn't see anything..

Dragonmaster ... Do you have a pic you can post of it? Do you have the co2 going to the inlet or outlet side of the pump?


WmTasker,

Don't have a camera right now, sorry. I know, that should be a crime!!


I just saw what the hel$ I did wrong (dddduuuuuuhhh). I've got the system backwards. I see you are feeding the reactor from the OUT end and the effluent is coming from the IN side of the reactor. That's an easy fix, I'll just break out the Teflon tape and switch.

Question: Do you have your stand pipe so tight that all water must go down and through the slits and then back up?

Thanks again!!

[WmTasker]

The stand pipe is really tight in mine. I actually put a rubber gasket at the bottom to make it tighter. You have to have the water criculate from the bottom to the top, this give the water the best contact with the media and helps to keep away any dead spots in the canister.

[WmTasker]

Sorry I forgot to mention that I plumbed the chamber opposite of what it says on the lid. I have the pump pumping into the out side of the lid and the return coming out of the in side of the lid. <-- this sentence could be confusing.

sorry you are having problems with yours, since I forgot that pretty important part of the direction.

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
The stand pipe is really tight in mine. I actually put a rubber gasket at the bottom to make it tighter. You have to have the water criculate from the bottom to the top, this give the water the best contact with the media and helps to keep away any dead spots in the canister.

OK Just so I'm sure, you are sending water into the outlet side of the reactor so the water must run down through all the media to the bottom of the reactor and then back up through the stand pipe.

Dragon

[em21701]

This looks freaking awsome! I was in the process of making my own reactorbou I think I'm about to throw out what I have and start like this. I have definate concenrs about being able to seal the PVC plumbing to the homemade fittings needed to connect to the acrylic tube. Luckily I got all the acrylic tube from work.

[Dragonmaster]

Alllllllll righty then!!! It's working like a charm. This is a great setup (once I did it correctly). Thanks WmTasker for this cool new Ca Reactor. It's going to be a hit for anyone that can't afford the name brands.


Good Job!!

Dragon

[jthnhale]

Do you need to see the media? I know it gets used up, but if you change it every six months or so would this matter?

If you don't need the clear canister you can get a larger 20" x 4.5" housing for $55.
or a less expensive 10"x4.5" housing.

What do you all think? Do you need a larger chamber?

[WmTasker]

Jthale ..... The larger the container, the media and water you can hold. This will allow you to put more calcium in a larger system if you need it. The only reason you need the clear canister is to see when to change the media. I suppose you can use a non-clear canister if you change it every few months. How often you change it will depend on the consuption rate that your tank will use the calcium and the rate you have the reactor adjusted to.

DragonMaster ... the water should flow in the out side of the lid, then down the stand pipe out in to the media, up through the media, then out of the in-side of the lid. As long as the pump is pumping into the out side you should be cool.

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
Jthale ..... The larger the container, the media and water you can hold. This will allow you to put more calcium in a larger system if you need it. The only reason you need the clear canister is to see when to change the media. I suppose you can use a non-clear canister if you change it every few months. How often you change it will depend on the consuption rate that your tank will use the calcium and the rate you have the reactor adjusted to.

DragonMaster ... the water should flow in the out side of the lid, then down the stand pipe out in to the media, up through the media, then out of the in-side of the lid. As long as the pump is pumping into the out side you should be cool.

Thanks WmTasker!

I finally got it working perfect! Now I'm ready to add the second chamber. Do you already know how your going to add it? If so please post. I don't want to re-invent the wheel if I don't have to.

Dragon

[sediener]

Great job. I was considering building a second stage for my reactor out of similar parts... now I don't have to figure it out. ;)

One thing that might help CO2 consumption by preventing buildup in the cannister is to tap the CO2 inlet right before the inlet of the pump (maybe extend the pump adapter with some pvc and put it there).

If I understand correctly, CO2 gets pushed through the housing with the influent water before it gets chopped in the impeller. I might have the flow backwards, but either way trying to force a bubble down the tube might not be the most efficient way to get CO2 into the system.

just an idea.

- Steve

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by sediener
Great job. I was considering building a second stage for my reactor out of similar parts... now I don't have to figure it out. ;)

One thing that might help CO2 consumption by preventing buildup in the cannister is to tap the CO2 inlet right before the inlet of the pump (maybe extend the pump adapter with some pvc and put it there).

If I understand correctly, CO2 gets pushed through the housing with the influent water before it gets chopped in the impeller. I might have the flow backwards, but either way trying to force a bubble down the tube might not be the most efficient way to get CO2 into the system.

just an idea.

- Steve

Good point!

I just checked my effluent Ph and it's at 6.8 already. I do however like the idea of relocating the Co2 inlet before the intake of the pump like most of the name brands. For now though, I'll leave well enough alone!

Dragon

[WmTasker]

Sediener ...

After I made everything and put it together, I almost kicked myself in the butt for not putting the CO2 inlet right before the pump. Most of the post and reactor I have seen have the CO2 inlet there. I think I got so excited once I got all the part, I just overlooked the simple things. I have an extra elbow ($0.79), so Im probably going to do that. Im pretty sure the adapter on the pump will be big enough to drill and thread.


DragonMaster ...

I have a few canister from an old RO unit. It looks like the canister I posted above, but it only have 1/4" inlet/outlet holes. I was planing on setting it up the same as the main chamber. I am going to put a stand pipe in it and some more media. Then I will run the outlet hose going to the tank into the out side of the new canister. Then having a new hose with the shutoff valve coming off the inlet side of the new canister going back to the tank. I hope this isn't all confusing. I will have the second stage on either tomorrow or monday. I will get pics as soon as I do it.

[Beenalongtime79]

If I ever add on a second chamber, I know where to go... Lowes!

Thanks for this great DIY idea!

[Richard Tester]

so what is the maxijet used for? -- I am asuming to feed the unit but all the reactors I have seen just use the suction from the pump to pull in water.

[Reefaholic1980]

I am new to the hobby and wanna know more about a calc reactor. I know that it helps supplement calcium, via the media and CO2. How do you regulate this? I am assuming it has to do with the flow on your co2. How long does a bottle of C02 last you?
Lastley i have a 20 gal and wanted to know if i could apply the same principal to some Ro canisters that i have. I am sure i dont need a media holder as big as you guys.
Thanks in advance
Dave :D

[WmTasker]

I want to say thanks for everyone giving me some feedback on the calcium reactor. Its fun sharing your ideas with other reefers, seeing them try it, and getting feedback. I added the second chamber tonight and moved the CO2 inlet. Here are a few pics.

First thing I did was remove the one elbow and retap a new one to just have one hose going to it. This was the elbow going into the out side of the lid. It origanally had the input from the sump and from the co2. Now it only has the input from the sump.


http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor001.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


I moved the co2 inlet to the adapter that went before the pump. At first I thought I was going to need a larger adapter to have room for the new hole. After checking it out, i figured there was enought room and there was. Now I have the co2 going threw the pump so the impellar can chop the bubbles up to disolve faster.

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor002.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


I added the second chamber. As I said earlier, I set it up the same way I did the first chamber. Instead of the influent coming out of the reactor then striaght to the sump, it now goes into the out side of the RO Unit to circulating threw the media. It finally comes out the in side of the RO Unit and back to the sump. I put the valve on the line coming out of the second chamber to control the flow threw the chambers.

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor003.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor004.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)


Here are a few extra pics to check out. They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Enjoy :beer::beer:

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor005.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor006.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)
http://www.120gallonreefs.com/images/calciumreactor007.jpg (http://www.120gallonreefs.com)

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by Richard Tester
so what is the maxijet used for? -- I am asuming to feed the unit but all the reactors I have seen just use the suction from the pump to pull in water.

Sorry I missed your post. There are some reactors that use the pump to siphon the water in, and some use a dosing pump. The only reason I went with a maxijet is because I have seen alot of reactors use them instead of spending the extra money on a dosing pump. I also wanted to make sure I had a constant water flow threw the reactor. But mostly it was a cost thing.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by Reefaholic1980
I am new to the hobby and wanna know more about a calc reactor. I know that it helps supplement calcium, via the media and CO2. How do you regulate this? I am assuming it has to do with the flow on your co2. How long does a bottle of C02 last you?
Lastley i have a 20 gal and wanted to know if i could apply the same principal to some Ro canisters that i have. I am sure i dont need a media holder as big as you guys.
Thanks in advance
Dave :D

I organally was going to use a old RO Unit. But I couldn't find any adapters to go from the 1/4" holes on the ro unit to the pump. Hopefully you will have better luck find fittings to fit yours.

[jarhed]

Ya know, this is absolutely amazing! You've pretty much built a reactor that seems to me to be just as reliable and durable as anything you'll buy in the store for over $300. And you did it for what, about $225 or so?

What system size do you think this baby will handle?

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by jarhed
Ya know, this is absolutely amazing! You've pretty much built a reactor that seems to me to be just as reliable and durable as anything you'll buy in the store for over $300. And you did it for what, about $225 or so?

What system size do you think this baby will handle?

Actually since most reactors don't come with a regulator, I only have about $130 in to the reactor. The other $80 or so was for the milwaukee regulater. So I built a $300 reactor for way less than $150.

Im not sure what size aquarium it will work on. It is going to depend greatly on how much calcium and alkalinity your system uses. I am planing on putting in on my 120 gallon reef. If you click on any of the pictures in this thread, it will take you to the site of my reef aquarium.

[jarhed]

Man, that is simply amazing. Your putting all kinds of thougts into my head of producing reactors cheaply and selling them for a small profit on Ebay! I'm about sick of the cost of equipment and will gladly lowball the namebrands to produce a quality product and hey, why not make a couple bucks for my time?

[SR HELLBOY]

Tasker, thanks for posting this, this is a great idea, and I already have many of these parts on hand including the chamber!!! As a matter of fact I have two chambers, and may macke a dual chamber!!!

Again, you had a great idead which will save me the cost of a reactor!!!

[WmTasker]

SR Helloboy

What size system are you planning on using the reactor on? I was thinking about buying another chamber (if this one is not enough for my system) to have more area for the media to circulate threw. It would be really easy to make a two chamber reactor for the main reactor, then have another chamber for the effluent coming out of the reactor to help raise the pH back up.

post a pic if you make it :D

[SR HELLBOY]

Tasker, the tank I have is 130 gal. just setting it up.

[josh_peter]

very cool

[andro]

Something that I am going to have to make soon. Much better then buying one.

[Dragonmaster]

I got to tell ya, this thing is working like a charm! My effluent Ph is steady at 6.7 and my effluent output & bubble counter have remained constant. I got it running Sat morning. As far as being sturdy, you could drop this thing from 2 feet and it would probably not skip a beat!.

I'll be adding the second camber this week using the same unit as the first. Then I'll tap the 4 holes on top of each one so it will hang under the tank from a bracket and not take up floor space. This way I can see the chambers better and change/add media like you would change an RO cartridge.

You just built a Ca reactor. It cost half of what a new one would......... It's Miller time :smokin:

Dragon

[RTaylor]

Maybe this is a stupid question but, do you lose any c02 through the plastic tubing? I heard that c02 kills airline tubing.
Great Idea Though!

RT

[WmTasker]

SR Helloboy
I think you will be more than happy with this on your aquarium. Once I have had mine setup for a week or so, I'll be sure to let you know how it is working on my 120.

DragonMaster
I am glad this is working so well for you. I just got my new selinode came in for my regulator today. I just finished sitting it up and I'll have to check it in a few hours. What do you have you bubble count at, and what is the flow of you effluent at? You need to get some pics online of it.

Enjoy your Miller Time :beer:


RTaylor

You will lose some co2 threw the outlet rose, i don't think there is anything you can do about it. The only thing you can really do is try to make the bubbles as fine as possible. This will allow them to disolve faster so hopefully you won't lose alot of CO2.

[WmTasker]

DragonMaster

I forgot to ask you a question. What are you using to test your pH? I have been thinking about getting a pH monitor by milwaukee (SMS122 pH Monitor). I didn't know if you had any experience using one of these?

Thanks

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
DragonMaster

I forgot to ask you a question. What are you using to test your pH? I have been thinking about getting a pH monitor by milwaukee (SMS122 pH Monitor). I didn't know if you had any experience using one of these?

Thanks

I'm planning on getting one soon but right now I'm using Selifert kits. That's probably the one I'll get ASAP!

Also my bubble count is at 1 per 1.5 sec. and effluent is right at half way open. This is the same settings I had with the MRC that I cracked. Tank Ph 8.1 - 8.3, Ca 485, Kh 10.5.....

Dragon

[DaveC]

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=37&Sub=1

Excellent job....Unless there was something special about your housing
money could be saved on that part $17.00 above....it is amazing some
of the idea' you guys come up with, very creative...;)

DaveC

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by DaveC
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=37&Sub=1

Excellent job....Unless there was something special about your housing
money could be saved on that part $17.00 above....it is amazing some
of the idea' you guys come up with, very creative...;)

DaveC

This canister will work great for you second chamber. But it only have holes for 1/4" threads. I couldn't find anything that could be used as an adapter to go from that small of a hole to the pump. Plus, if you are trying to circulate water through your chamber, you will lose alot of circulation going threw a hose and hole that small.

[TroyPierce]

The other consideration with the buckeye canister is that it's about a third of the capacity/volume. I believe the canister that WmTasker used is for a 4 1/2 inch filter and the one referenced in the buckeye link is for a 2 1/2 inch filter.

Assuming the canister is 1/2 inch larger than the filter it's sized for, a housing for the 2 1/5 inch by 10 inch filter would hold approximately .3 gallons. The 4 1/5 by 10 inch housing would be .85 gallons.

If you have a small tank, the smaller canister would be perfect.

[WmTasker]

DragonMaster

Thanks for the info. I tested my effluent yesturday and the pH was actually higher than what the tank was. Go figure. I adjusted the bubble count up some and ordered the sms122. Now Im going to be like a little dog sitting at the front door waiting for my treat to arrive :) Im going to test the effluent again here in a little bit. Hopefully its lower than the tank water this time.

Who makes the MRC reactor? Do you know where I can look up some info on it online? It would be cool to compare the two and see how this one is working compared the MRC you once had.

[know-it-all]

Originally posted by TroyPierce
The other consideration with the buckeye canister is that it's about a third of the capacity/volume. I believe the canister that WmTasker used is for a 4 1/2 inch filter and the one referenced in the buckeye link is for a 2 1/2 inch filter.

Assuming the canister is 1/2 inch larger than the filter it's sized for, a housing for the 2 1/5 inch by 10 inch filter would hold approximately .3 gallons. The 4 1/5 by 10 inch housing would be .85 gallons.

If you have a small tank, the smaller canister would be perfect.


not to mention that co2 canisters for paint ball also would be the perfect size

[WmTasker]

Well I just did some testing. Effluent is at a pH of 7.6. The tank is at 8.2 pH, 360 Calcium, and KH of 4.2. It looks like its time to add some suppliments to the tank. That way once the calcium reactor is where it should, it only has to maintain the cal/alk and not try to rasie it.

I boosted the bubble count up. Its at about 30 bubbles/min. right now. I'll have to test later tonight.

Know-it-all
That would work pretty good for a smaller tank. I wonder if you could find a small needle valve to fit on of those?

[em21701]

There are remote resivoir hoses that come with a needle valve on them, I think you could set it low enough to work. It basically just depresses the schrader valve on the top of the PB tank.

I finished plumbing my reactor last night, I used sch.40 PVC inplace of the Vinyl tubing. I think I'm going to mount the reactor to the wall behind my tank and hang the whole thing from the 4 holes in the top cover. Also I used threaded tees in place of drilling and tapping the elbows. My co2 tank and regulator should be here next week, I'm pretty excited!

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
DragonMaster

Thanks for the info. I tested my effluent yesturday and the pH was actually higher than what the tank was. Go figure. I adjusted the bubble count up some and ordered the sms122. Now Im going to be like a little dog sitting at the front door waiting for my treat to arrive :) Im going to test the effluent again here in a little bit. Hopefully its lower than the tank water this time.

Who makes the MRC reactor? Do you know where I can look up some info on it online? It would be cool to compare the two and see how this one is working compared the MRC you once had.


Tasker

I ran my Co2 wide open for about 3 min. with the effluent closed to get the pH low. Then opened it to very slllooowww drip for 24 Hrs. after that all my levels came in line. I'm probably just lucky!

Here is the link for the reactor I had. They are an RC sponsor!

http://www.myreefcreations.com/

Dragon

[WmTasker]

EM21701
Nice to see another person making one. Do you have a camera to post a pic online?

DragonMaster
Once I get my sms122 I will probably do that to speed up the process here. Im just worried about dropping th pH to much, since I don't have a reliable test kit.

I have been to that website before. They actually have really good prices on calcium reactors. I almost bought one of the CR1's, but I really wanted to try to make one more. :):)

[WmTasker]

Well I started today to put the DIY Calcium reactor on my website. I have all the pictures done. I hope to have the rest of the information later today or tomorrow. check it out

http://www.120gallonreefs.com/diy_calciumreactor.htm

[KuyaMark]

Hey Bro If I asked you to make me one exactly like your how much would you charge me of couse without the co2 bottle coz i know those you can't ship.

Let me know ''Mark

[shiipseki]

yeah.. I would like to know too.. I'm a total mess when it comes to DIY..

[em21701]

WMTasker
I'll post a few pics tonight when I get home. I'm going to use a scrap piece of airline tubing as a gasket on the bottom in place of the rubber you used.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by em21701
WMTasker
I'll post a few pics tonight when I get home. I'm going to use a scrap piece of airline tubing as a gasket on the bottom in place of the rubber you used.

Looking forward to seeing them. I just got my SMS122 pH controller in today. So might have a few updates for tonight.

[Gipsy]

I only have one word : brillant!
I run out over lunch to Lowes (the only one in Wisconsin) and pick one filter up.
The over all stuff will be better taht most of the commercial one (i have one off those and it doesn't stop leaking as soon as the presure rise a little.. I'll not say the brand to be nice...).
Once again brillant man!!!!!
My actual one is feed by the return pump throught a 1/4 tube, do you think that will work for your design? (that will be on pump less to take care off...)
Best regards,
JD

[Nemo_0916]

WmTasker .. OH MY GOODNESS!! What a KILLER idea!! Instead of having to try to buy an acrylic tubing the size you want etc. etc. etc. ... use an RO unit and add as you please 4 5 6 chambers who knows!! :) :)!! I love it!!

Yes I will have to build one myself when I start my 60G :) SO EXCITED!! :)

[WmTasker]

Gipsy
I hope this one works better than the one you have. I don't think you are going to get one of these to leak by having too much pressure. If it can handle the water pressure going in your house, it should handle a little maxijet. You should have no problems using the pump the way you have it on this one.

Nemo_0916
Thanks ... hope you have fun putting yours together.

Make sure you both try to post pics of your reactors when you are done. :):):)

[Gipsy]

WmTasker
Tahnk for the imput. You're right. If this unit can handel the pressure of city water, i don't think that my Genex IV will make it leack!
I just ordered the quiet one pump and a bubble counter from Dr F&S.
I think the $26 for the Aqualine bubble counter are well spend : one think less to worry about! (get the clear tube, make the end, drill, glue...blabla).
Plus i'm thinking about a bracket that will use the top holes to support the bubble counter. I'll post pict when it will be done! (may take a few days)
BTW I ask our best guy in the shope what kind of tap/drill to use for the snap fitting. The one i got from Lowes are not John Guest brand but Watts PL-3308. The drill size is "R' (.339") or 11/32" and the tap 1/8"-27 NPT just as a FYI. (I'm a engineer, I have to drop number all the time, sorry...)
Regards,
JD

[totalpackage181]

ya that's a great idea, i made almost the identical things for a phosban reactor, ( a little filter pad on the top to stop it from escaping) and it works like a charm....next project calcium reactor!

i guess my only question is about how many gallons an hour are passing through the unit ..( back into the tank)?

and at what ph?

[trmiv]

This is cool. I wonder if a single one the size of the smaller one you made would be enough for a 50 gallon system with some SPS, LPS, and a clam? Have to see how well the unit you made keeps up with your tank.

[headshrink]

Nemo_0916 - hmmm... using a whole RO unit, I like it! I am not familure enough with them to know how exactly to do that but PLEASE take lots of pics if you do it. I wonder if you could take one RO/DI "rack unit" and make several aquarium components in it (ie: Ca reactor, Posban, etc.)
Make it so!

[wormdog99]

Fantasticly awesome DIY!!! Bravo!! I have been looking and reeding and planning a way to make a cheap reactor and here it is. Thanks for the awesome picks and great walkthrough. Only question I have on it is, what size tank do you have this beautiful machine hooked up to?

Thanks again for the great post,
Matt

[Nemo_0916]

headshrink .. WOW!! I wasn't going to take it that far but thanks for the idea!! It prob won't be awhile until I DO do it IF i do it that is but that's a GREWAT idea! I was originally thnking a whole RO/DI unit converted into a purely CA reactor ...

[WmTasker]

TotalPackage
I really don't know how many gallons I have going through it right now. Once I get the pH down to where it needs to be, I will measure the output of the reactor to find the gph. The pH has been bouncing between 7.4 and 6.8. Im trying to get it to stay at 6.8

Wormdog
I have the reactor on my 120 gallon reef. You can CLICK HERE (http://www.120gallonreefs.com) to see all about my reef.

[wormdog99]

hehe...my bad. I wasn't clear enough. I was asking what size CO2 tank you had the reactor hooked up to.

Thanks,
Matt

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by wormdog99
hehe...my bad. I wasn't clear enough. I was asking what size CO2 tank you had the reactor hooked up to.

Thanks,
Matt

Thats ok. I have a 10 lbs tank.

[em21701]

Here is the reactor I just finished, using pvc all around instead of the vinyl tubing. I have a mag 5 pump on it (probably overkill but that's what I had). There is a threaded Tee for each of the I/O connections, the one above the pump is for the water to come in from the tank, I'll get that from my sump return. The one just before the pump is for the CO2, and the one just before theCO2 input is for effulent out.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/em21701/reactor.jpg
Now I just have to wait patiently for the CO2 tank and regulator to arrive. I'm very interested to see what the bubble count you guys finally arrive at so I have a good starting point. I'll only be feeding a 45 gal tank (70 gal total volume) so I should have no trouble keeping up.

[WmTasker]

That looks sweet. I can't wait to see you once you get it up and going on your tank. Do you have a lot of SPS/LPS corals in your tank?

[andro]

em21701: I like how you used all PVC, I was thinking about the same thing with the JG fittings, I don't have a tap and I think it is cheaper to just do what you did instead of buying one.

[em21701]

WMTasker:
I have a few SPS but I intend to add more. I also have 2 maximas, I wouldn't mind adding another one of these either!

[craby]

Do you think the way you have the CO2 hooked up to the PVC adapter @ the pump inlet is acting as a ventury?

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by craby
Do you think the way you have the CO2 hooked up to the PVC adapter @ the pump inlet is acting as a ventury?

NO it doesn't. I took the hose off of the bubble counter and water just started squirting out.

[em21701]

I ran mine in the sink and saw water squirt out also. I don't think there is anywhere near enough flow to start a venturi.

[OxInYourBox]

Very nice. I've watched this from the first post and will be making a trip shortly to get the parts to make one.

em21701-I was planning the same setup in my head. To confirm-are you using a 3/8" or 1/4" JG fittings in the plumbing? Too much white makes it hard to tell. :)

One general question to all reading-Why not incorporate a 4 way T at the bottom of the chamber and run pvc to the sides of of the chamber and drill each as a spray bar to increase media contact time? May have to bump up the recirculating pump a notch. Thoughts?

[craby]

FYI -
The 1/4" tap is called 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread), or 1/4 - 18 (18 threads per inch).

I wander how we can make a ventury for the CO2. Supposedly this would break up the CO2 into smaller bubbles before it hits the pump.
Maybe we could use 1" PVC to just before the pump inlet, bushing it down to 1/2" & use a 1/2 x 2" nipple w/ a short piece of tubing inside the nipple. Tap the nipple & go through the tubing, & connect nipple to pump w/ a 1/2" threaded coupling. The other side could remain flex tubing for movement option.

Do y'all think this would work?

[em21701]

OxInYourBox: I used 3/8" fittings, but I think I'll have to replace the one for the CO2 with a 1/4". I won't know for sure till the regulator gets here. The 4 way cross may help spread the water out but you sacrifice valuable media space for all that PVC.

craby:The trip throught the pump is pretty violent, you might be making it needlessly complicated. The CO2 bubble size should be sufficiently reduced by the pump. Also the turbulence resulting from the water flowing through all the elbows will reduce the bubbles further.

[andro]

Originally posted by craby
FYI -
The 1/4" tap is called 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread), or 1/4 - 18 (18 threads per inch).

I wander how we can make a ventury for the CO2. Supposedly this would break up the CO2 into smaller bubbles before it hits the pump.
Maybe we could use 1" PVC to just before the pump inlet, bushing it down to 1/2" & use a 1/2 x 2" nipple w/ a short piece of tubing inside the nipple. Tap the nipple & go through the tubing, & connect nipple to pump w/ a 1/2" threaded coupling. The other side could remain flex tubing for movement option.

Do y'all think this would work?

Haven't made mine yet, but I still think that it will force water out. The whole system is pressurized from what I could gather, because if you use a MJ1200 to pump water from the tank to it, the 1/4" line to feed back to the tank will restict the flow enough to force water out of any available hole.

[craby]

Why not put the effluent valve between the supply pump & the reactor? That way you don't create unnecessary back pressure on the reactor. Also, this would help keep the valve from getting clogged w/ calcium deposit.

[Scott S]

What a simple concept. I have been working with acrylic trying to make one (still fixing leaks).

My only concern is the screw for the red vent and contact with the saltwater.

I also made my stand pipe with a bunch of small holes instead of sawblade slits.

Pics in my gallery.

[em21701]

craby: you want the effluent on the other side because if it were in the front it would put fresh CO2 into your tank instead of into the reactor. On the out side you'll still get some but it will be less.

Scott S: I also have my concerns about the screw for the vent, but it looks like it is stainless steel. I'll be sure to inspect it after it has been running for a while. Depending on the type of Stainless used it can still rust. I'm supprised they didn't use a nylon screw for that.

[OxInYourBox]

Yeah that is true. I'm thinking if I can find a 1/2" PVC cross then it will cut down on the media loss. With the price of the project it's well worth playing around. :)

Most C02 inputs have been 1/4" (as it comes from the solenoid/regulator as such) but I don't see a reason why you couldn't convert from 1/4" to 3/8".

[craby]

em21701,
What I ment by effluent valve was the valve that regulates the amount of the effluent put back in the tank. I have my 1/4" John Guess fitting valve before the reactor on another reactor that leaks when I have it after the reactor. My thoughts of this leak are because of the typical reactor having flanges & rubber gasket which are prone to leaks under pressure.

I don't think this reactor would have the same problem, but if there was ever a problem w/ the soleniod valve, the back pressure may push effluent back through the bubble counter and into the regulator (if the solenoid valve failed).

One thing I thought would happen w/ the valve before the reactor would be that the CO2 would replace the water in the reactor, but that has not been the case on my other reactor. For this reason it may just be an added safety feature to have the valve before the reactor to protect the regulator.

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by em21701
craby: you want the effluent on the other side because if it were in the front it would put fresh CO2 into your tank instead of into the reactor. On the out side you'll still get some but it will be less.

Scott S: I also have my concerns about the screw for the vent, but it looks like it is stainless steel. I'll be sure to inspect it after it has been running for a while. Depending on the type of Stainless used it can still rust. I'm supprised they didn't use a nylon screw for that.

I just pumped silicone into the screw area and covered it up!

Dragon

[Scott S]

DUH! that would work great.

I am going to see what it looks like in a month or two.

[WmTasker]

Wow .... its amazing to see how crazy this thread is going while Im at work. I get home on a Friday night and have a dozen post to read just to catch up.

Im having problems getting the pH in my reactor to drop below 7.0. Everytime I think I get the bubble count right, I come back a few hours later and the bubble count has slowed down. Any thoughts from anyone? This is my first reactor and it was easier to make than to get dialed in.

[craby]

WmTasker,
Milwakee regulator - Try fully closing the large black handled valve & opening the brass needle valve. Slowly turn the black valve until bubbles start rumbling through your bubble counter like a hard boil. Then close the needle valve until you get the desired bpm.

[WmTasker]

Thanks Craby. I did just that last night and when I woke up today I had the same bubble count as last night.

I have a bubble count of like 90/min, effluent of 50 mL/min, and a pH of 6.7 coming from the reactor.

[em21701]

WMTasker, Are you using a ball valve or did you find a needle valve for you effluent?

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by em21701
WMTasker, Are you using a ball valve or did you find a needle valve for you effluent?

I have a little ball valve that has the john guest fittings on both sides. I just plugged it in to the 1/4" hose coming out of the reactor back to the sump.

[WmTasker]

This is the one I have

http://www.johnguest.com/gfx_series/PISV_D2.GIF

[em21701]

That's what I have also, is it difficult to set the flow rate? Based on the size of my tank I'll only need 1/3 the ouput you have. I'm just wondering if I should try to find a plastic gate valve or needle valve to control the output.

[giomacri04]

Ok im new to the hobby. and ive wanted to make one for a while now this is yet the best design. it's so simple but yet it works great from what i read .

Well my question?. is can some one make a diagram of where the
hose's go cause i have no clue of where to put which hose.

like the one with ball valve and which house gose back into the tank

i have a clue i get how it works but i rather be safe than sorry.

well thanx for all the help in advance .

and keep up the great diy pojects .:rollface:

[em21701]

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/em21701/reactorlabeled.jpg

Give this a try

[Nemo_0916]

em21701 .. that's a GREAT looking reactor you got there!

giomacri04 ... thanks for asking the questions and thanks em21701 for the pic ... i was wondering the exact same thing .. much more clear now .. :)

[WmTasker]

em21701

Very nice. I was thinking about doing the same thing when i saw the post, but you beat me to it :):)

[WmTasker]

DragonMaster

How many mL per minute of effluent do you have coming from your reactor? I am having trouble keeping my bubble count below 100/min. and the pH at 6.7. I thought I might have to much effluent coming out. It is about 50 mL per min. right now.

[giomacri04]

thanx the pic is great i am in the process of getting the parts will post pics when done thanx agasin

em21701: hey what pump did you use ? and is it powerfull enough ?

[ReefRatz]

Originally posted by em21701
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/em21701/reactorlabeled.jpg

Give this a try

Do you pump the water in from the sump to the reactor or its gravity fed from your Main tank's overflow or drain?.
It seems line the water from the tank is going in the discharge side of the pump?

[giomacri04]

Originally posted by ReefRatz
Do you pump the water in from the sump or its gravity fed from your Main tanks overflow or drain?

i beleav when you ad water to it and you turn on the pump the force of the water movement from the pump will act like a syphin and suck the water to the reactor

[giomacri04]

em21701: The ball valve is that their to regulate how much
is going back into the tank.

[em21701]

Wow a lot of questions to answer!
giomacri04:
I have a mag 5 attached, based on what I've seen that should be overkill, but I had one already so the price was right.

I don't think there is enough flow throught the reactor to start a siphon, I havent gotten my CO2 regulator yet so I haven't run it with media in it to know for sure. I'm feeding it with my sump return pump which should be able to overpower the reactor pump if there is an outward pressure created. The ball valve is there to regulate how much effluent is returned to the tank. I would like to use a gate valve but I haven't found one in plastic yet.

Reefratz:
I am feeding the tank water from my sump return into the discharge side of the reactor pump. I have a mag7 on my return so it should over-power the mag 5 on the reactor if a siphon is not created (which I'm fairly certain it's not)

[em21701]

I have found a plastic needle valve I can use if I decide that the ball valve does not have precise enough control. you can find them <a href="http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=15615&product%5Fid=15616" target="_blank">here</a>

[Nemo_0916]

em21701 .. there isn't a concern RE teh pump creating to much pressure within the unit? I know it's an RO/DI unit but isn't it only rated for ~125 PSI, unless the mag 5 pump running the reactor isn't creating that much pressure?

Also, so you feed the mag 5 on the reactor w/ another mag 5 which is the return pump for your sump? Don't these 2 pumps in combination create a great deal of pressure - too much for the RO/DI chamber?

[WmTasker]

I know this is off the beating path, but I found these guys in my frag tank when I got home from work tonight.

Enjoy :)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32115worm.jpg

[Nemo_0916]

WmTasker .. HOLY @*$(!!! those of BIG!!! LOL

[em21701]

nemo_0916: I have run the unit with water in it already with no problems. 125 PSI is pretty substantial, Mag pumps are volume pumps not pressure pumps.

WMTasker: I'm failry certain those are fire worms. There are mixed opinions about their reef safety.

[crzy4reefs]

wmtasker here is an artical on them....its a good read IMO. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.htm

[Nemo_0916]

em21701 .. thanks for the explanation. Was i correct in understanding that your reactor was fed by your mag 5 sump return pump and that a mag 5 runs the reactor itself?

[em21701]

I have a mag 7 for a sump return and the mag5 runs the reactor

[Nemo_0916]

em21701 .. and the mag 7 feeds the reactor? how is it pumbled ... just tee'd off the mag 7 to the reactor? osrry for al the ?'s having a hard time understanding how you feed the thing ... :/

[know-it-all]

Usually reactors are fed with a small powerhead/pump.
You can T from another line, but this may cause the reactor to
run dry in a power outage.
(power goes out, all the water drains out,
not enough pressure to pump water back in)

the reactor itself just needs the same amount of water going into it
that you have coming out of it

After looking closly at the design here,
I would change the water intake to be before the pump.

water would push into it easier from that side

[Nemo_0916]

know-it-all .. that was my concern too! :) If em21701 is feeding the reactor with the mag 7 teed off, that seems like a lot of water flowing through the reactor, i would think something along the lines of an aqualifter pump designed by 'TOM'??? isn't that what the Korallin reactors use - I used to have a Korallin 1502 and it used that pump to feed the reactor chamber .... any ideas??

[em21701]

Know-it-all I was thinking of moving the water input inbetween the eff. out and the co2 in. I'm not too concerned about the reactor running dry, but I am not sure that the reactor won't try to feed back to the tank through the input line.

[Nemo_0916]

wouldn't something like this be better? only $12 ... :)

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KTALP

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by em21701
Know-it-all I was thinking of moving the water input inbetween the eff. out and the co2 in. I'm not too concerned about the reactor running dry, but I am not sure that the reactor won't try to feed back to the tank through the input line.

It will do exactly that. I took mine appart the other day and put a 1/8" hole in the stand pipe inside the reactor. The hole is about 1/2" away from the lid of the reactor. When I unpluged it, it broke the syphon and didn't empty.

[know-it-all]

I just hooked up a 100gph powere head, and no trouble.

I would only worry about water feeding out the input line if
you don't have water comming out the outlet line.

as far as running dry, during powere outages,
my water drains out of the reactor and back into the sump.
when the power turn back on, the water slowly fills back into
the reactor, but sometimes, there isn't enough pressure in the
feed line to fill the reactor.
this is the downside to T-ing off another feed line.
if you just add a small power head to only feed the reactor
no problems

[know-it-all]

I just read my post, and I really need to spell check these things


:0

[Nemo_0916]

know-it-all & WmTasker ... what gph rating would you suggest for the reactor feed pump?

[know-it-all]

100 gph or less is all that is needed

something with enough head pressure to fill the reactor up

[Gipsy]

I was thinking feeding mine with a 404 mini jet or a Rio 800.
(i have both already laying around)
Whitch one you guys think will be the more "appropriate"?

[Scott S]

I feed mine with a MJ600 that I had lying around. Recirc with a Mag 3. Pics in the gallery.

[Nemo_0916]

That's great guys! thanks for the answers ... helps me gauge what I should be expecting to power and recirc my reactor when ... IF ... I ever build it ;)

[Dragonmaster]

Originally posted by WmTasker
It will do exactly that. I took mine appart the other day and put a 1/8" hole in the stand pipe inside the reactor. The hole is about 1/2" away from the lid of the reactor. When I unpluged it, it broke the syphon and didn't empty.

Tasker,

Are you sure your not getting Co2 leakage from this 1/8" hole? If not then I'll do this as well.. Good safety measure!

Dragon

[Gatorfan]

Great thread, I'm seriously considering doing one of the smaller ones(like WmTasker's second chamber) for the 26g sps/clam tank I'll be setting up in a couple months. Definately bookmarking this thread :)

[em21701]

I think I will be putting a check valve inline with the feed line, this will keep the water from draining out of the reactor. I am noticing a lot of air (or CO2) coming out of my effluent line, I may re-plumb the outside so that the tees are facing downward on both the co2 inlet and the effluent outlet.

[TroyPierce]

One of the trends I've seen in CA reactors is to recirculate the undisolved CO2. I'm not exactly sure how they do it but I THINK that in principal, it's another hose that goes from the highest point and tees into the CO2 intake.

Has anyone seen anything like this? and can it be integrated into this design. I'm wondering em21701 if that's what you're seeing?

One such reactor is available from Premium Aquatics. It's the Geo 6 X 12. They say RECIRCULATING DESIGN
Water flows from the bottom of the reaction chamber up through the media. Free CO2 in the chamber is drawn back through the pump. This greatly reduces CO2 consumption and lessens the need for an add on single pass reactor to degass the effluent. Other models collect free co2 at the top and then pass it through the effluent line and into your tank

[em21701]

The water already exits from the highest point, I think because the tees in my recirculating loop face upward the gas has a tendency to collect there.if I turn them so that they face down the issue will go away.

[Scott S]

DJ88's DIY version recircs undissolved CO2.
http://www.melevsreef.com/dj88.html

[OxInYourBox]

Picked up the unit and various PVC fittings to build my unit this weekend and show a few reef club friends.

Quick question-Looking at the lid of the canister how did everyone plumb the stand pipe into the top? A pic would be great.

[Dizzyswimmer]

t a g

[em21701]

We each used some kind of gasket in the bottom to force the pipe into the top of the reactor lid. WMTasker used a rubber gasket of some kind, I used a short length of airline tubing. The media will hold it in place while you screw the lid on. I'd give you a pic but my reactor is full now.

[johndonaldson3]

tag

[WmTasker]

whats all the tag stuff for? If you want to follow the thread just go to the bottom of the page and click on the link that says "Subscibe to this Thread"

[WmTasker]

Oxinyourbox

I cut my stand pipe to be 10 3/8" long. Once I got the little gasket at the bottom, it was a perfect fit in the canister.

[MadTownMax]

I noticed earlier someone in the thread commented about CO2 gas escaping through the regular 1/4" hose y'all are using.

There is black (shiny) 1/4" hose that is resistant to CO2 gas, and it won't degrade over time to become brittle and "leak" CO2 like the common water hose you guys are using.

[impur]

Originally posted by MadTownMax
I noticed earlier someone in the thread commented about CO2 gas escaping through the regular 1/4" hose y'all are using.

There is black (shiny) 1/4" hose that is resistant to CO2 gas, and it won't degrade over time to become brittle and "leak" CO2 like the common water hose you guys are using.

Could you provide us with a name for this hose? Where to get it?

[MadTownMax]

Originally posted by impur
Could you provide us with a name for this hose? Where to get it?

I guess you can get green or blue also -

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=CO1511


I've gotten it from Home Depot before as black 1/4 hose, with the use listed as "fish tanks" :lol: - no kidding

[impur]

Nice thanks!

[OxInYourBox]

Cool. Thanks! That's what I guessed everyone did with regards to the top. I'm going to mess with it a bit and see if there is another way to do it (doubting it but worth a try when I get the time).

Will update with what I find.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by OxInYourBox
Cool. Thanks! That's what I guessed everyone did with regards to the top. I'm going to mess with it a bit and see if there is another way to do it (doubting it but worth a try when I get the time).

Will update with what I find.

Cool :) :) Let us know what you find out.

[Jiddy]

Can someone make a "grocery list" of everything needed now that you guys seem to be past the mod'n stage?

Just wanted to say this invention/thread is great!

[Scott S]

Go back to page one, nothing different as far as parts, just the way they were plumbed.

[8BALL_99]

For the standpipe in the center... I heated it with a propane tourch then once the pipe got soft I stuck it in the lid so it would fit up into the hole.. I then cut the pipe to the right length.. My standpipe goes about 1" into the lid and fits very snug..

[Scott S]

I tested my standpipe by "fitting" it first. I then tried to blow through it (without success) which told me that it was sealed. And then I proceeded to put my holes in it.

[grochmal]

How snug is very snug?
The pipe comes out, right?

Originally posted by 8BALL_99
For the standpipe in the center... I heated it with a propane tourch then once the pipe got soft I stuck it in the lid so it would fit up into the hole.. I then cut the pipe to the right length.. My standpipe goes about 1" into the lid and fits very snug..

[em21701]

I re-plumbed my reactor last night and I appear to have eliminated most of my problems. I moved the water intake from the output side of the pump to intake side before the CO2. I moved the CO2 input closer to the pump and I turned all the ports downward. my effluent is now gas free. I'll post some pics later. I also made a bracket and humg the reactor on the wall next to my tank.

[craby]

8BALL_99,
You may have a problem if the stand pipe does not come out of the lid when you go to refill the media. If it doesn't, then you'll need to grind it down. It will seal where it seats on the tapered part @ the bottom of the neck on the lid.

I am going to add a venturi like DJ88's design for CO2 recirculation & tap the lid @ the top of the recess in the lid where CO2 collects w/ a 1/8" npt to 1/4 JGF. I'll post Pics when I am done.

Other than that, I have had it up & running for a few days now & it's running like a champ.

[em21701]

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/em21701/replumbed.jpg
The connections going clockwise: effluent out, tank water in, co2 in. The CO2 now recirculates properlyand the effluent is bubble free

[TroyPierce]

em21701, I like the use of hard PVC plumbing like you've done. In looking at your picture, I'm wondering if the view is from what will be the back of the unit while it is in-use? The reason I say this is, when you need to refill the media, will you be able to get the wrench in there to loosen the housing? I know from experience that unless you're the incredible Hulk, you probably won't be able to remove it without the wrench.

Given that you have unions on both sides, I guess you could take the plumbing off but I'm kinda lazy and wouldn't want to do that if I didn't have to.

I'm planning on making one of these and would like to mount it on the back of my stand, using a bracket on the top, but I'll need to figure out a way to keep access for the container wrench.

I was just wondering if you could make a bracket or box to screw into the top and use that as a shelf for the pump. This way, instead of turning down, the plumbing could turn up and sit on top of the lid. Would this cause any problems for a circulation point of view?

Something else I thought about mounting on the top is a peristaltic pump. Here's a thread with some info. Again, my hope was to build this into something like a box on top of the reactor and let it pump it's little heart out.

[gath2]

Looks great em21701. More pics please

[8BALL_99]

Hey guys,, My stand pipe can be removed. I just did it that way so it would fit snug up into the lid.. My reactor is up and running and has been for several days.. I simply place the standpipe in the bottem container. Then I filled the container with media and screwed the lid onto the reactor.. My pvc stand pipe has a taper on it now so its a breaze to screw the lid on Plus it fits snug so it doesnt leak... Hope that kinda of explains it a lil better. I guess I should have posted pictures of mine to :)

[em21701]

troypierce, I have it mounted like it is shown. I will probably take it off the wall to change the media anyway, but a more rigid bracket would allow it to be changed right there. There is plenty of room to get the wrench in with all the plumbing attached, but not the way I have it mounted. Putting the pump above the reactor is a really bad idea, even if you could get it to circulate the first time it would certainly run dry the first time you lost power. Almost all pumps need to be mounted below the water level to function. The peristaltic pump may be able to be mounted above the reactor because it is being fed by another pump.

gath2, I'll post some of it in it's "home" later tonight when I get home.

As a side note: stray CO2 + strong lighting = instant alge.....d'oh!
don't let the CO2 make it back to your tank!

[houseofha]

Is thee any more info on what tank size this (or one with additional unit) will accomodate?

Still really curoius about this and want to get one if the size can be figured out.

House

[sediener]

I would guess it could handle at least a 100G tank mixed reef without having to refill monthly. It may fall short on a packed 100g+ SPS only tank though. I saw the chamber at lowes and the media volume in the canister looks about 2/3 the size of the korralin 1502 that I have.

For more than a guess you'll have to wait for some longer term testing....

- steve

[WmTasker]

Anyone having problems getting there bubble count consistant? Everytime I get the bubble count to about 60-90 bubble per minute, I come back an hour or so later, and the count is down to 20 or so bubble per minute. Its driving me up a wall. I have one of the milwaukee regulator with built in bubble counter. The first dial read 100 psi and the second read about about 3 psi. Any suggestions would be great.

Thank

Keep all the ideas coming. I'm really looking forward to seeing all the reactors you are making.

Em21701 .... Looking really good. Glad to see you got the co2 out of your effluent. As Far as being able to change the media quickly. I think it would be better to take it apart and do cleaing on parts at this time. Things might get blocked and quick running properly if routine maintance is don't done on the unit.

[sediener]

I adjust my second dial to 20-30 psi... so variations in the pressure inside the reactor won't affect the bubble flow as much.

If your first stage is only 100psi you are almost out of CO2.

- steve

[8BALL_99]

WmTasker, I had problems with mine... I pretty much just played with it till it worked,, I turned the first knob up very high so that the bubble counter was going nuts then I adjusted the second one to just a lil faster then I wanted.. After a few hours it slowed down to where I wanted it.. Took me a couple of days to get a feel for it.. I agree its a pain.. I tried adjusting it like the directions say,, But I never could get it to work that way.

[WmTasker]

Thanks for the input.

sediener .... Do you think its almost empty? I just filled it this fall and then just sat it in the basement till I made the reactor. It sat about 7-8 months.

[sediener]

From what I understand ~1800psi is a full tank. Unless the gauge is messed up or I am missing something. Your tank looks pretty old, did you get a new gasket for the regulator connection?

- steve

[WmTasker]

Right before they filled the tank, they did a pressure test on the tank and I was told it was fine.

[Gipsy]

I just finished my new reactor! Exactly per WmTasker specs. I'll post update later.
Thanks man!
Cheers,
JD

[SR HELLBOY]

Originally posted by em21701
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/em21701/replumbed.jpg
The connections going clockwise: effluent out, tank water in, co2 in. The CO2 now recirculates properlyand the effluent is bubble free


This is the way i'm going, great job!!!

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by SR HELLBOY
This is the way i'm going, great job!!!

Looks great :)

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by Gipsy
I just finished my new reactor! Exactly per WmTasker specs. I'll post update later.
Thanks man!
Cheers,
JD

Look forward to see it.

[Gipsy]

The reactor is up and running. No leak (so far....)
I did set the bubble count at roughly 90 per minute.
The feeding pump is a MJ400.
Circulation Quiet one 1200 (boy those are REALY quit!)
I'll love to post picture as soon as i understand how (the server keep quicking me out with some sort of 50k limit)
Cheers,

[WmTasker]

I think I have my bubble count under control. Two days straight with a reactor pH of 6.7 -6.8 :)

Gipsy
Glad to hear everything is going good so far. Looking forward to seeing pics. The only way to get around the 50k limit on pics is to become a premium member. Just click on the "I support RC" logo below my name to join.

[Gipsy]

Here are the pictures!!! I hope it work (the pictures!!!)
Cheers
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57892DSC03948_JPG.jpg http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57892DSC03947_JPG.jpg

[adamPL]

Great job guys!
Will it work for 26g? What pump should i use for? and one more quastion, how do y count the flow from tank to CR and back to the tank (to hi or to low level calcium in the tank)?

adam

[craby]

This is how I have my reactor plumbed in. I realised, after I plumbed it all back together, that I had the pump return going to the (in) side of the reactor, a big no no.

http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20101.jpg http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20102.jpg http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20103.jpg http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20104.jpg http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20100.jpg
I did this so that there would be little to no head pressure that the accumulated CO2 at the top of the lid would have to overcome to get drawn back through the pump.
I also drilled holes through the ribs in the lid to allow the CO2 to travers these section in the lid to get recirculated.http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20097.jpg http://www.msnusers.com/flk8mr0pg0lb6hqvjal8gtgmq0/Documents/Pictures%2FAquarium%20098.jpg
What your looking at, even though it is hard to see are the holes drilled. HTH.

[craby]

If you notice in my above pics, fine ARM media particles are settling @ the bottom of the reactor. Do y'all see the need for an acrylic disc w/ 1/8" holes drilled through out, put down @ the bottom to keep the ARM off of the bottom approx. 1"?

[WmTasker]

Craby

I can't see any of the pics.

[adamPL]

Hey where can I buy CO2 bottle?

[em21701]

craby, I can't see the pics either, and I'm getting an MSN login box for each of them.

adamPL, I got mine on ebay. Most places that you get them filled will take your bottle and give you another one that is full, so don't be afraid to get a used one, since you will get a used one back anyway.

[sediener]

Originally posted by adamPL
Hey where can I buy CO2 bottle?

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2.shtml

There is one place with pretty good prices...

I get mine refilled at a fire extinguisher shop. I am looking to upgrade my 5lb tank since it is 22$ to refill it and 24$ to fill a 20lb tank. go figure. It'll pay for itself in ~1 year of fillups. My point is, get the biggest tank you can fit in your space.

- steve

[Gipsy]

Sediener :
I think you're geting robbed... I pay $9 for my 10lbs and i'm sure it's not the sheapest by far.
A way to avoid to have to trade youre bottle is to go to a liquor store that refeel beer tap. they will fill it up for you right there.
plus they put food grade CO2 (not sure of the difference but sound good). That said most (like 99%) of those places will not fill bottle over 10lbs. Hope it helps!
Cheers!

[calvin415]

Is there any way a paint ball CO2 tank would work for a small reactor? Anyone know of a regulator that will mount on them?

[Bushong87]

Does anyone know why a Microsoft .Net dialog box opens up everytime I check this thread?

[Bushong87]

Does anyone know why a Microsoft .Net dialog box opens up everytime I check this thread?

[craby]

That Microsoft.net message I think is due to me posting picks from my MSN Passport account. This is the only way I could find to post picks as I'm very new to this whole world wide web thing.:confused:
I'm trying to figure out how to correct this message & get my pics on the post.
Can anyone please inform me as to the best way to get my pictures in this post?
Thanks.

[em21701]

Craby, first edit your post and remove the bad pics. Next sign up for a free image host (I use photobucket.com) from there you will get a link to your images, use that link in your post.

[WmTasker]

You can only edit you post for the first 60 minutes after you post it. The only way to have it edited is to have a RC Monitor edit it. You might be able to find a monitor under the question and feedback thread, you can ask them to edit it for you. here is the link http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=74

[calvin415]

Originally posted by calvin415
Is there any way a paint ball CO2 tank would work for a small reactor? Anyone know of a regulator that will mount on them?

Anyone?

[em21701]

You can supply a reactor from any size tank, but you have to refill it more often and you dont take advantage of the economy of scale (bigger tanks cost porportionally less to fill). A remote resevior kit is a rudimentary regulator, you would have to rig up your own bubble counter off of that.

[elephen]

Why does it say you need 2 pumps? Shouldn't the water be drawn in via the suction from the Quiet One pump?

[calvin415]

Originally posted by em21701
You can supply a reactor from any size tank, but you have to refill it more often and you dont take advantage of the economy of scale (bigger tanks cost porportionally less to fill). A remote resevior kit is a rudimentary regulator, you would have to rig up your own bubble counter off of that.

Noted, but on a 23 gallon not much room for a big Co2 tank... But I guess the 250.00 would be better spent on a pinpoint Ca monitor and then just dose Huh?

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by elephen
Why does it say you need 2 pumps? Shouldn't the water be drawn in via the suction from the Quiet One pump?

The way the reactor is setup, there is no venturi suction on either sides of the pump. So You have to have something to feed the pump. I have seen several designs, and even the ones that have the venturi on it eventually get a pump put on it by the user. The pumps are more reliable to keep consistant flow.

[elephen]

What is the size of the thread reducer I will need for the quiet one pump?

Pump > reducer > hose barb

What OD/ID tubing did you use and what is the OD/ID of the PVC elbows did you use?

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by elephen
What is the size of the thread reducer I will need for the quiet one pump?

Pump > reducer > hose barb

What OD/ID tubing did you use and what is the OD/ID of the PVC elbows did you use?

The reducer is just a coupler. 1/2" Threaded to 1/2" threaded.

[elephen]

Duh, I saw the sizes... Wow.. been a long day ;)

[WmTasker]

Don't worry about it. We all have them. :):)

[bigdaddybo]

Has anyone here had any trouble with milwaukee bubble conter. Mine has some salt built up on it. Also how are you guys taking a PH reading? by a probe in the reactor.

WmTasker
You are useing your reactor on a 120 gallon right. and if so can you give me a idea of your bubble count per min. and what were you able to get your calium level at with your Reactor.

Im trying to get mine down PH lower but have not had any luck. must be doing something wrong. i test the out put of water with a milwaukee PH monitor. i got it down to 7.3.

Thanks for any help........ Bo

[WmTasker]

bigdaddybo

I am using a SMS 122 pH controller by Milwaukee. I am monitoring the pH as it is coming out of the reactor. Right now I am having about 50mL of effluent coming out of the reactor with a bubble count around 90 or so. My pH is staying right around 6.8. My tank is right now at a pH of 8.2, calcium of 400, and alkalinaty of 16.8 DKH. I haven't put any supplements in since I put the reactor on about a month ago. I do put some Kalkwasser in my top off water to help offset the low pH coming from the reactor.

hope this helps

[Beenalongtime79]

This could also be made into a nice kalkreactor w/ a very small pump. :)

Peace,
John H.

[sediener]

Originally posted by Gipsy
Sediener :
I think you're geting robbed... I pay $9 for my 10lbs and i'm sure it's not the sheapest by far.
Hope it helps!
Cheers!

I've looked around and thats what it costs here... can't do anything about it. I'll check into the beer tap idea. only looked as extinguisher
and welding places so far.

- steve

[Gipsy]

Realy try the beer tap! Good luck!

[elephen]

I am in the process of building one very similar to yours but possibly with the pump overhead above the reactor instead of down to the side.

Just an idea I had, I'll keep ya posted with pics.

Unfortunatley I have to hand seal the small little John Guest valves since my lowes and home depot said they do not carry pipe threading taps, bastards...

[airwaybill]

This may have been answered but I couldn't read the multiple pages anymore.

As for the maxijet pump, how did you make the yellow tubing fit the out put on the pump? Is there an adapter or did it just fit? Also, is the pump just running on full power or is it throttled down? How much flow do you want going through this thing?

I don't know a whole lot about reactors, but, I like your design and it seems to be more full proof than others I've seen. I just want to make sure I do this right.

[airwaybill]

Originally posted by elephen
Unfortunatley I have to hand seal the small little John Guest valves since my lowes and home depot said they do not carry pipe threading taps, bastards...

You can use a regular thread tap from the tool area. It will work fine on pvc.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by elephen
I am in the process of building one very similar to yours but possibly with the pump overhead above the reactor instead of down to the side.

Just an idea I had, I'll keep ya posted with pics.

Unfortunatley I have to hand seal the small little John Guest valves since my lowes and home depot said they do not carry pipe threading taps, bastards...

there is a very good chance that the pump wont work if it is above the unit. The pump has to have water in it for it to start pumping. The pump will have to start out dry if it is above the unit. I really don't think it will pump anything.

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by airwaybill
This may have been answered but I couldn't read the multiple pages anymore.

As for the maxijet pump, how did you make the yellow tubing fit the out put on the pump? Is there an adapter or did it just fit? Also, is the pump just running on full power or is it throttled down? How much flow do you want going through this thing?

I don't know a whole lot about reactors, but, I like your design and it seems to be more full proof than others I've seen. I just want to make sure I do this right.

I just wrapped some tephlon tape around it and stuck it in the output of the maxijet. I used 1/2" tubing for the input of the reactor, so it really didn't take much tape.

[sediener]

Just an idea for feeding the reactor. If you have hard plumbed your return, put in a T followed by a ball valve and then bushing down to where you can get a JG fitting to connect directly to your CO2 reactor. I've been using this method to feed my reactor off of a 2K+ g/hr pump and have had no problems for over a year. Less heat transfer and fewer pumps to worry about failing.

JG fittings are rated for something like 90 psi so you will probably never have to worry about them failing in your tank plumbing. 90 psi is something like 200ft of head pressure.

- steve

[trmiv]

So how well is this reactor meeting demands? I'm trying to figure out if the small one that was used as a second chamber would work as the primary reactor on a 37g with 20g sump that has LPS, SPS, and a clam.

[sediener]

If you have the room, just use the original casing and oversize it... it is only ~20-30$ more and you will not have to take it apart and refill as often.

- steve

[trmiv]

Yea, that's what I'm concerned about, room. I'm trying to stuff it in a rather small area.

[Gipsy]

Sediener :
Glad it worked for you.
For me that technic was a disaster (see previous post). I had my CR feed by the GenexV : leaks, leaks... The JG fitting never leaked but everything else did. Just too much presure. The test i was advised to do is : feed the reator with pump and close the "out" pipe. It will show any leaks or "leakable" spot.
I used that for the new reactor and after some fixes, no problem.
I pretty passionate about the subject due to me having to clean the bassement at 5 in the morning due that POS of CR leaking!
I moved to a MJ400 to feed my new reactor and no more leaks.
Just my personal experience, that all.
But I have to had that your technic will works fine if the reactor is perfectly water tight.
Best regards,

[sediener]

wow, that sucks. I guess a pvc needle valve to lower the pressure coming from the return might be a good idea if you are worried....

- steve

[peezee]

Originally posted by Gipsy
Sediener :
Glad it worked for you.
For me that technic was a disaster (see previous post). I had my CR feed by the GenexV : leaks, leaks... The JG fitting never leaked but everything else did. Just too much presure. The test i was advised to do is : feed the reator with pump and close the "out" pipe. It will show any leaks or "leakable" spot.
I used that for the new reactor and after some fixes, no problem.
I pretty passionate about the subject due to me having to clean the bassement at 5 in the morning due that POS of CR leaking!
I moved to a MJ400 to feed my new reactor and no more leaks.
Just my personal experience, that all.
But I have to had that your technic will works fine if the reactor is perfectly water tight.
Best regards,

Gipsy-What adapter did you use for the maxijet 400. I have a mj400 on hand ready to feed my CR but the polyethylene tubing wont fit on the mj400. Looks like you have 1/2"clear tubing connected to an adapter with a JG fitting where the polyethylene tube connects to the jg fitting.

[elephen]

So I filled the reactor champer up with A.R.M. Screwed it on as tight as a physically could (keep in mind I have the o-ring seal on there too) and began to pump water into it and what do you know?

The POS leaks like no other, I cannot screw it down hard enough to keep it from NOT LEAKING!

Any ideas or clues? Any of yours do this??

[elephen]

I am using an old MJ1000.

Could this be pumping in to much water?

[WmTasker]

Elephen,

I would suggest making you stand pipe in the middle about 1/8" to 1/4" smaller. The lid might not be able to make a seal on the main o-ring if the pipe is to long.

[elephen]

Ah I will try that.

It was a PAIN IN THE ARSE to get shut and then an even BIGGER PAIN to get open.

It literally took all my strength to open it, and then when it finally opened, everything inside (ARM & water) came spilling out all over the carpet....

BRB gonna make a cut or two

[ca2639]

What's size of PVC tube using inside the reactor and what's the length of the tube could fit properly? thanks!

[Gipsy]

Originally posted by peezee
Gipsy-What adapter did you use for the maxijet 400. I have a mj400 on hand ready to feed my CR but the polyethylene tubing wont fit on the mj400. Looks like you have 1/2"clear tubing connected to an adapter with a JG fitting where the polyethylene tube connects to the jg fitting.

I did make a "reducer" to go from 1/2" clear tube to a 1/8 clear tube. It's prety easy to do. I guess there is probably 10 ways to make it. I ust used parts that i had : a 1/2' bard+1/2" straight connector+1/2" round cap that i drilled/ tapped (see previous post for correct drill/tap size - very important-)to fit a staig JG connector. About 15 minutes to make and total cost arround $4. Work realy great. I just plug the clear tube on to the MJ output, fit OK, no problem. I tested it and the presure out the 1/8' tube was realy good, about 3-4ft off head lift. Hope it help.
Cheers,

[Gipsy]

Originally posted by ca2639
What's size of PVC tube using inside the reactor and what's the length of the tube could fit properly? thanks!
Personnly i used a piece of clear acrylic tube that i had at work. Size OD is 1.25", lenght 10.5". The acrylic run always a little under size like 1.225"/1.215"OD that gave me a almost water tight fit in the chamber fitting, realy cool. I have to say it's a little more trickier to cut, but the result is sweet.

[elephen]

So I took back the original housing to Lowes this morning and got a new one. Wow, the lid comes off and goes on sooo easily and smoothly I can do it with my hands...

My QuietOne pump will arrive this afternoon via FedEx, so I'll toss it together and see what happens.

[houseofha]

Folks,

Still waiting to hear an experience on how big a tank thee will support.

House

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by houseofha
Folks,

Still waiting to hear an experience on how big a tank thee will support.

House

I have it on my 120 and it is keeping the calcium at 400 and alkality at 16 DKH.

[trmiv]

Did it raise your alk that high, or was it already that high? That alk level is really high.

[Deuce67]

That is a great looking reactor. I wish this info was available last year. Do you guys think that this unit can be used as a kalk reactor if plumbed right?

[elephen]

Well it is up and running, supporting a 75 gallon reef, a 110 gallon reef and a 90 gallon sump (only 70 gallons of water in it), to a grand total of 255 gallons. Seems to keep the perams right, guess we'll see. I will post pictures as soon as I can

[houseofha]

Elphen, Interested in what heppend, I am running about 260 right now, but whern I get all my rock from my other tank in I think I'll be at 220 (ish)

What are your parameters? Calcium and Alk

Thanks

House

[sediener]

Originally posted by Deuce67
That is a great looking reactor. I wish this info was available last year. Do you guys think that this unit can be used as a kalk reactor if plumbed right?

Deuce67... probably, but there ways to do it cheaper than buying that 50$ canister. i have plans in my head for a DIY kalkreactor that should run about 50$ total. When I get around to building it in a month or so I'll post the directions.

- steve

[elephen]

My calcium is steady at 420ppm and my alk is 8dKH

[WmTasker]

Originally posted by trmiv
Did it raise your alk that high, or was it already that high? That alk level is really high.


I think I got it to high the last time I added supplements. Now the reactor is keeping it there.

[kabal2]

hi im pretty knew in sps and i have a question, how you guys feed the water to the reactor???
some1 can post a pic or two please
Thank you
Gabriel

[scotty1234]

Milwaukee Regulator tip: Close down the small valve (screw it all the way in) by the bubble counter. Turn the black knob a couple of times to get the pressure coming out about 2. Then back off the small valve until you get the bubble count you want.