PDA

View Full Version : OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef


Pages : [1] 2 3 4

jnarowe
10/19/2005, 06:42 PM
It will be in-wall, 8'L x 5'D x 35"H, with refugium, DIY skimmer, etc.

Little hitch-hiker, until now!
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/hairy_crab1.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/hairy_crab2.jpg

Shot of door & East wall.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/IM000326.gif

Display wall.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo1.jpg

Sink room (to be removed but the sink stays.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo2.jpg

Display wall meeting West wall.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo3.jpg

And apparently I have no pictures of the North wall, but it does look like a wall, and I will include pics later showing exhaust sytem/wall interface.--J

sixxer
10/19/2005, 06:46 PM
SWEET!!!! I've been waiting for this project to begin!:D

jnarowe
10/19/2005, 06:52 PM
The first hole is the scary one. Found mold from a shower leak too, and I need to slip in a 6 x 18 x 10' header...yikes!--J

rjwilson37
10/19/2005, 08:17 PM
Yep, this will be good! Count me in on this, it looks like you have your work cut out for yourself.

jnarowe
10/19/2005, 08:23 PM
Ya think? :eek2:

masson
10/19/2005, 09:25 PM
you bought live rock already?

NeilsReef
10/19/2005, 09:26 PM
It sounds like you are going to have one impressive set up! I am truly looking forward to watching this thread... I am glad another great reef is being set up in the North West!!!

jnarowe
10/19/2005, 10:03 PM
Masson:

Yeah, I got some rock when I bought the tank. About 200lbs. or so of MI. I am keeping it in a Rubbermaid tub with a Prizm and a few hermits. Boiled by accident and killed several thousand bristleworms...that was fun! Seems to be doing fine although I have to top it off a lot.

NR: Thanks...I wish there were some good reefs around me to inspect for ideas. The tank is still in the back yard (now with leaves in it) so I need to get on with it. I am really concerned about it freezing. Some alterations to the walls and bringing in electrical over the next week. Hard to sleep at night.--J

i2ik
10/19/2005, 11:34 PM
Can wait to see it done!

keefsama2003
10/20/2005, 04:54 AM
good luck i had my tank sitting in my parents garage over this past winter hoping it would make it thru ok and its cold in their garage but my tank made it thru with no real hitches and now has 300g of water and 3/4 of a bucket of salt in it and my SG is only at 1.008 heh guess once i get the floor covered ill add the sump/fuge and add more salt and water

what are you using on the floor? i got the garage floor sealant and im going to put that down. did you have any ideas? if not may want to look into that just before the tank goes in.

Lunchbucket
10/20/2005, 06:46 AM
1000gal ...wow. keep posting pics and thoughts!

Lunchbucket

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 07:42 AM
"Can't wait to see it done"... you guys are a riot!

Keefsama2003: Whatever you do, do not use a garage floor paint product or anything with the Behr name on it. It will come right off.

I have a neighbor who finished cement professionally for years and he is coaching me. The first hurdle is getting it clean, since it has carpet glue on it etc. Essentially he said to use a citrus cleaner and sand the floor with an orbital sander, like one you can rent. I am a glutton for punishment (duh) so I will sand it with a hand-held sander. Once it is clean, I'll be getting advice for the sealant. I repeat, do not use any paint product!!!

LB: Thoughts? What thoughts? We don't need no stinking thoughts!--J

simonmr
10/20/2005, 09:06 AM
time to HOP on a new thread im here for the ride

keefsama2003
10/20/2005, 10:06 AM
i was looking at the stuff i have and i dont remember the name of it but i hope it holds well as im going to be applying it tonight. no more money atm to buy anything else and have some livestock i need to get into the tank so i have to start cycling this big thing.

any other suggestions? i cleaned the cement last night with the foaming cleaner and let it dry over night got the cement really nice and clean surprising from the dull grey look at the rest of the floor.

jarhed
10/20/2005, 10:12 AM
tagging on!

derrikd
10/20/2005, 10:14 AM
sound cool, im aboard

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 10:34 AM
No other advice...my floor has very poor finish quality so it will take some elbow grease.

Welcome guys...what's a 35g clown?--J

keefsama2003
10/20/2005, 10:35 AM
not sure but sounds like a big fish. guess you will need abig tank to keep one :-P

Julio
10/20/2005, 12:15 PM
can't wait til you finish this tank it will look awsome, best of luck.

Is4U2NV
10/20/2005, 12:16 PM
I'm pretty sure he means he has a 180G Reef, and a 35G Clown Tank. A tank, with only clowns in it.

Tyler

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 12:17 PM
Julio: I really appreciate your confidence in my skills!!--J

kentrob11
10/20/2005, 01:24 PM
What kind of DIY skimmer are you looking at doing? Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.....

melev
10/20/2005, 02:52 PM
Is this going to be a 14 day project? :D

sidewinder770
10/20/2005, 02:55 PM
Looks like a great project- what kind of time frame are you thinking till it's up and running (notice I didn't say 'finished' as they never seem to be 'finished')? What other equipment are you going to have?

keep the pics coming and good luck!

sharemaster
10/20/2005, 03:12 PM
Is it done yet :) wheres the pics@?@ tagging along looks interesting my 32g could be your refugium!!!

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 04:40 PM
I will build a skimmer along the lines of Snailman's only a lot larger and not cyclindrical. (sp?)

I am in the middle of the wrecking and will post a studs on ly shot tonight. It's amazing how much sheet rock can come out of one room!

I figure I'll be done in ....a couple of months? Tweaking for a couple of years?--J

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 07:00 PM
OK...a few more demo pics:

North wall with sink room wall removed.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo4.jpg

Sink area and door on East wall.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo5.jpg

Display wall.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo6.jpg

West wall with "jog punched out. This will be finished as a straight corner.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo7.jpg

jarhed
10/20/2005, 07:15 PM
Oh man.... as much as I'd LOVE to help you, I HATE drywall!
:mad2: I'd definitely come down with something at this stage of the project, so I wouldnt be able to come help out. :lol:

Jarhed has flashbacks of drywall dust in places on his body not explored in YEARS, giant drywall boogies every night, drywall dust all over the house......... :eek1:

nbd13
10/20/2005, 07:21 PM
maybe i missed this, but whats the estimated date when the tank will be filled up?

thanks

Nick

Cprowler
10/20/2005, 07:52 PM
Looks like your going to be having lots of fun!:D Good to see more Reefers in the Pacific North West.

jnarowe
10/20/2005, 08:57 PM
nbd13: Estimated date? That's hilarious.

jarhed: Drywall is not fun to be sure. Especially when it is moldy. Putting it back up is even tougher. I looked for alternatives that would be less of a problem with water, but they all cost too much so that's what I am stuck with.

I don't mind the dust in the air, it's the dust in my nose that gives me a problem. Also, since we punched out the "jog", now I am in danger of getting some dust in the rock, which is in a tub on the other side of the West wall. I'll have to find some plastic to put over it ASAP.--J

rjwilson37
10/21/2005, 07:31 AM
Yep, Marc and I work pretty quick in setting up the new stuff with 2 week projects.... We have patience on finishing the stuff, but we work quick on getting the initial setup and move done.

psuedopimp
10/21/2005, 07:43 AM
my wallet hurts just thinking about this project. good luck

jarhed
10/21/2005, 08:24 AM
Originally posted by psuedopimp
my wallet hurts just thinking about this project. good luck

:lol: I hear ya!

jnarowe
10/21/2005, 11:07 AM
Won't hit the wallet too bad really although there have been a couple of surprises of course. My lighting scheme will be the least expensive for start up and running on a tank this size, and I am researching using blue LED arrays.

Cooling will be fairly simple with a heat exchanger and coffin freezer filled with anti-freeze & water, so that will not be a very big drain on electricity like a chiller.

I got the tank very cheap and it will take some work to polish it, but labor is free! The pumps came with the tank, as well as a good portion of rock to start the reef off.

The only other big expense will be controlling equipment, most of which I will make myself. The big question is whether to go with a Neptune controller, or buy individual controllers & timers.--J

rjwilson37
10/21/2005, 11:12 AM
It looks like your downstairs, is this tank acrylic or glass?

jnarowe
10/21/2005, 11:17 AM
yes, downstairs, cement pad, one walll 75% below grade.

Tank is acrylic.--J

rjwilson37
10/21/2005, 11:35 AM
So it shouldn't be to bad to get down there, you probably have a walk in down there so the tank will be easy to get downstairs.

jnarowe
10/21/2005, 01:08 PM
no problem there. 3 exterior doors and one is a slider. The tank is patiently waiting outside the slider to come inside.--J

bigben
10/21/2005, 08:39 PM
don't just tease us, man. give us a pic of the tank! :D

jnarowe
10/21/2005, 09:14 PM
More Demo Photos...

Frame is basically done. What you can't see is that whomever put up the sheet rock used a rediculous number of screws and I need to remove them all. There's probably 2 - 3000 total and I want to remove them so they don't rust inside the wall. Sounds like a fun day or two of work!--J

Ceiling with 11" joists.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo9.jpg

Corner jog removed and 90 deg. framed in:
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/room_demo10.jpg

jnarowe
10/21/2005, 09:16 PM
bigben: Pic of tank in my .gallery (http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=83322&cat=500&thumb=1) --J

melev
10/21/2005, 10:27 PM
j-

Just use a prybar and pop them out one by one. Don't unscrew them. This is rough framing, and it doesn't matter. They'll pop out quickly, and having one every 12" is normal. I've gapped them even closer together when in doubt.

keefsama2003
10/22/2005, 06:59 AM
Marc i have a question for you.
when you first filled your tank was the water cloudy for a few days after the salt was put in.? i mixed my salt and the sump/fuge took all night but they are starting to clear up some but the display is still couldy when viewing from the side. i was thinking about throwing carbon in a reactor and pump water thru that to see if that helps or should i just give it a few days/weeks. right now its filled of baserock and dead sand im just trying to get the salinity right. do you think i should mix the saltwater in an external bin? the reason i havent is because i have the water at the correct lvl for the tank i would have to drain water or shut off all the pumps to do it externally. i was thinking just mixing the water in my fuge while there is nothing in it.

anyone have any ideas and i asked mark because he has a nice 280g tank so he knows about filling large tanks. plus i think it would be good as i think 1000g will probably be the same as my 300.

True Percula
10/22/2005, 08:39 AM
wow cant wait till its done!!

melev
10/22/2005, 10:31 AM
Yes, it was cloudy.

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/skimmer_in_display.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/surface.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/cloudy.jpg

But the next day, it looked like this:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/clear_water.jpg

The skimmer helped, as did the LR in the tank.

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/skimmate1.jpg

Two days later

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0704/tank_lit.jpg

Now, to answer your question. It would be better to mix the saltwater and add it to the tank. However, in your case if you have the tank and sump full of RO (or RO/DI) water, and the sand and baserock is in place, I'd just leave the system running and add the salt to the sump. It will mix as it flows through the system. There is nothing in the tank that can be stung. The trick is counting how much salt you are using. It is so easy to forget what you've added.

When I had to make 55g of saltwater, I needed about 26 cups of salt. Around cup 16, you begin to wonder if it is 16, 15, or 17... ;)

Any salt that doesn't mix up in the sump can be stirred later. Just don't dump it all in at once, and make sure everything is circulating so it doesn't super saturate in one particular area.

keefsama2003
10/22/2005, 10:49 AM
thanks marc i will have to buy more salt as the stuff i had was super concentrated liquid salt. says it makes 400 gallons. and i added a full bucket plus a little less than half a second bucket. i have about 430g total water volume atm and the water is cloudy just like in your pictures. just when im checking the salinity its around 1.012 i believe was the last reading could be lower im not sure. i have a few powerheads in my fuge stirring the salt as its still not really a fuge but an empty tank once i get the SG where it needs to be ill add my sand/livesand/cc to the tank as well as add a few lr pieces to the display. just dont remember it being like this when i setup my 90 but then again i have 2 90gal tanks and a 300 so its alot more salt/water. i will have to get a second heater the tank only heated about 2 degrees over night from 68 to 70 when i left this morning. ill check it again when i get home and see how its doing.

any other suggestions? i should look into


regarding the salt i have in there now. should i just give that a few days and test the SG again once the tank clears some to get a good reading on where the SG is or should i go out and get some powder mix and start adding that slowly? not too sure at this point the super concentrate stuff works real good for water changes i have been using it on a 100g fowlr for 3 months now and its great. i just put it in my tank last night about 430 - 5pm.

there is nothing to nuke in the tank but i dont want a SG of 31 either so im just trying to make sure i cover all grounds and figured this would be a good thread as i know trying to get 1000g of fresh water to the right SG may be even more perplexing than my pidly 430g

jnarowe
10/22/2005, 10:51 AM
melev You may be right about just pryinig them out. I don't think I will reuse them because many are rusted and I want to use screws that won't rust. Any suggestions on paint for walls and ceiling?--J

PS. Nice pics!

keefsama2003
10/22/2005, 10:53 AM
i got behr paint highgloss for bathrooms in white.

coats really good has a nice shine to it and when wet you can wipe it down with no problems. i tested a corner out and its great to clean real easy.

jnarowe
10/22/2005, 10:56 AM
As far as getting the salinity right, most large tank owners fill with RO/DI and mix in salt as you are doing,, but remember that you are not just filling the tank, but the sump/refugium, pipes, hoses, skimmer, etc. It's a lot more water than you think!--J

jnarowe
10/22/2005, 11:15 AM
keefsama2003: no disrespect intended, but that Behr paint is total crap. I have had some BAD experiences with it! Anyway, I will probably use marine top-coat paint in a gloss or semi-gloss, bt I am wondering about colors for walls vs. ceiling etc. White makes sense, but with all that light, the room will be tough to work in I would think.--J

keefsama2003
10/22/2005, 12:48 PM
hmm now i know for next time but i made the whole room white including the floor

my sump/fuge are white

the stand is white

it will have to bounce the light back it is a little bright yes but its not too bad.

jnarowe
10/22/2005, 01:27 PM
everything white? wow! very hardcore...I was thinking I might attached white plastic sheets (8 x 3) to the ceiling with hinges around the tank so that they drop down and reflect back any loose light, and when I need to wrok inside the tank, just raise them up and clip to ceiling.

Then I could make the room a less blinding color like grey. What do you think of that?

melev
10/22/2005, 07:44 PM
It is a nice idea, J.

Keefsama, I know you don't want to read my 192 page thread, but if you'll read the first 14 days detailed on my site for the 280g, you'll get a good idea of how it was all put together.

I've never used a liquid salt concentrate, so I can't answer that. Just keep adding salt until the specific gravity is where you want it.

J- I've used Behr before without issue. Maybe it was in the application? Or you got a bad can? No idea.

jnarowe
10/22/2005, 08:10 PM
Behr is just not that great when you have experience with really good paints. It does not bond well and it's utility is reflected in the price. For instance, their cement coating I purchased, after meticulous application, came off with just a little wear. Home Depot had a Behr rep. come and look at it. The rep. said it just doesn't hold up under anything but extremely light use and offered me a refund. I have used Behr around my home as well, and have not been satisfied. There are so many good paints that cost anywhere from 20-100% more that do a much better job.

Just doing some wiring today and screw removal. I cut through a live romex...that was fun! But, what other way to find the circuit when all else fails? LOL!! Only a couple thousand screws left.--J

melev
10/22/2005, 11:38 PM
:eek2:

Did you mark that circuit? :lol:

Hop
10/23/2005, 12:22 AM
You will find that little exercises such as this have nearly equal weight during the building process as coffee:rollface:

xdusty6920
10/23/2005, 04:49 AM
lol man could you use my help right now. i work around 60hrs a week doing nothing but drywall, framing, sealing, skimming, and painting. with one person to help hold the boards in place i could demo and redrywall a room in one day fairly easily.
for your floors, if youve got the cash, id suggest a 2 part epoxy (one part paint,one part hardner). its alittle pricey but is abslutely perminent, water proof and super tough. its often used to refinish counter tops.

jnarowe
10/23/2005, 10:22 AM
Yeah I marked the circuit. Looks like there is 35amps available in the room right now, so I probably don't need to bring in 100amps, but the cost is virtually the same with just a difference in wire size and a couple of breakers, so I am going to go ahead with the 100 anyway. The wall plug circuit is shared with the viewing room so playing it safe is probably a good idea.

HOP: Funny thing about electrical jolts, they daze you and clear your head at the same time. I love em!

xdusty6920: I could use some help. A buddy helped me remove all the sheet rock, but we both have brain injuries so our work rate, although feverish, is much slower than you would be. Epoxy is a good idea and I can get all kinds.--J

Hop
10/24/2005, 02:38 PM
You got all those screws out yet?

jnarowe
10/24/2005, 03:17 PM
No...I had my son workinig a screw gun and I used a crow bar. We got about 1/3 done in 1-1/2 hours, so that's not too bad. I want to get a move on with insulation etc. but I need quotes and it's hard to get anyone to come out. Also, I need to install the header and frame in the window...soon enough. Not enough progress to post any pics yet.--J

jnarowe
10/27/2005, 08:02 PM
Quick update: no more screws...I tend you revel in having had a long and enjoyable bachelorhood, but I have never screwed that much!!

Glue-lam beam coming tommorrow...shall we all cross our fingers? I have support on each side of the load bearing wall equal to the load bearing wall, so I have double the wall up as temporary support. Should be an exciting day!--J

asnatlas
10/28/2005, 06:18 AM
Originally posted by jnarowe
Quick update: no more screws...I tend you revel in having had a long and enjoyable bachelorhood, but I have never screwed that much!!

ROFL, that is funny as heck...

Shawn

jnarowe
10/28/2005, 08:26 AM
What's even funnier (to me) is that I replaced the word "to" with "you"...product of stroke. Found out yesterday that the blood is all gone and I just basically have a dent and scar tissue in my left frontal lobe. Good news I guess, but I may have some executive function disability permanently.

I wonder if I really should be putting a header in the only load bearing wall on the first floor? Call in a pro? I don't think so!--J

jnarowe
10/28/2005, 07:02 PM
Here's a shot of the new beam that went in today.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/new_beam.jpg

That's a nice 10 footer!--J

melev
10/28/2005, 07:49 PM
Nice job! Did you remember to nail it in place? ;)

jnarowe
10/28/2005, 07:57 PM
Actually, it's not nailed in place at all. The posts that we built are all nailed together of course, and we cut them slightly long so the beam is jammed up into the top-plate.

I can't really figure out how to nail the beam itself. It's 5-1/4 x 18"! Maybe some metal brackets screwed into it would be good? I'll take a look tommorrow. The pressure of the house will hold it in place, but maybe I should give it some lateral bounderies!--J

melev
10/28/2005, 08:00 PM
You need to nail it into the uprights, and also through the beam into the supporting "cripples" beneath it.

If the house were to shift for some reason, that piece should be secured if you expect it to hold.

It looks like you can nail it through the taller board (on the right) and into the beam, but there appears to be a substantial gap for some reason. I'd fill that with some lumber, and toe-nail it where possible.

jnarowe
10/28/2005, 08:59 PM
Yeah, I am planning on filling the gap and nailing through the end. And I think metal brackets would be good too. Prior to my stroke, I would have planned it with brackets to begin with.

BTW, what's up with the black line through your avatar?--J

Hop
10/29/2005, 08:04 PM
Don't worry... Installing that header was probably the hardest thing to do mentally. How long did you sit there contemplating wether you should do it or not? I thing I spent at least an hour debating if I really wanted to do it and mine was only a 6'gap. I planned escape routes if something was going to start giving way while I was Installing the new header.Then I would get the hammer and re-think things again and again before I finally said "screw it" and began knocking out dry wall:)

jnarowe
10/29/2005, 08:50 PM
Well I just submitted a reply and it went poof!

jnarowe
10/29/2005, 08:54 PM
yet that one shows up?

OK...the first hole is the toughest but I had to do it. I found a few problems including rot & mold. If I were to pay someone to fix that after I had noticed a problem, it would have cost more than the entire aquarium project, so I am getting a "two-for-one"!

Got a problem: One of the pumps that came with the tank is totally frozen. Took a while to get it to move a little with channel locks! I pulled the motor apart and it doesn't look good. Completely rusted inside, broken bolts, and it wasn't wired correctly. Buying the motor itself costs more than buying the complete pump too.

Any suggestions on pumps? --J

melev
10/29/2005, 09:06 PM
You can add metal brackets if you like, and lagbolt them in place, or just nail them if the metal is thin. However, it will be tough to sheetrock over those as they will stand out off the lumber. Nailing it should do well, and that is what we did when I framed houses with a seasoned carpenter years ago.

Regarding my avatar: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=5958942#post5958942

The Sequence pump is really getting great reviews on RC for the most part. It uses less power than many, and provides great flow. I bought a Sequence Dart (160w) recently as a backup for my current pump. For now I'm using a Little Giant. I used to use an Ampmaster 4700 as it came with the tank, but it was costing me a fortune in electricity (384w).

Kent E
10/29/2005, 09:09 PM
Thats one big beam, no worries there. good luck with the tank and the lobe.

jnarowe
10/29/2005, 09:23 PM
melev: I figured something like that...wow. And I just don't understand how they can drop dead just because the pump was off for a few hours. Sorry for your loss.

I will have at least 2 pumps going, so maybe I can avoid such a problem if a pump goes out.

So the Ampmaster is called that because...it sucks a lot of amps??? That's funny, because the name makes it sound otherwise.

As far as the beam goes, I almost got the brackets today but got busy with other stuff. I could use L brackets on the underside. I could use a large T on the back side and countersink bolts from the front to back. There are many ways to tie it down. Leaving the ends open really isn't too bad because as the beam heats and cools, it will be able to expand without damaging anything.

KENT E Thanks for the good wishes...and what lobe? My frontal lobe? LOL...well, it's not like I can switch it out for another one.--J

melev
10/29/2005, 09:44 PM
That's funny about the AMPmaster. :lol: It is actually a Dolphin pump. But I like your description.

I doubt your home will get hot and cold enough to swell a lam-beam much at all. If it does, you have far bigger problems to deal with than you think. ;)

If you don't have any circulation at all, it is bad. I've proven that definitively. 8 hours is too much without some type of interaction on our part. :( Just remember to keep them running.

chainsaw5vent
10/30/2005, 06:17 AM
Originally posted by jnarowe
Here's a shot of the new beam that went in today.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/new_beam.jpg

That's a nice 10 footer!--J

are you supporting an aircraft carrier w/ the lam-beam??:lol:

and can you add more details about the chest freezer w/anti-freeze solution in it? i've never heard of that one before.:idea: :hmm6: what size is it?

jnarowe
10/30/2005, 09:23 AM
Interestingly enough, the wall that beam is in is the only load bearing wall on the bottom floor. Let me paint a picture:

The vertical dotted line represents where the beam is. That is the only 4 x 6 wall downstairs supporting all the floor joists for the 1,350 sq. ft. upper floor on this end of the house. I need to change my pants.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/floor_plan.gif

Chest freezer isn't worked out yet, but basically I will just use one that I already have and plumb it with a 3/4" copper coil and hook it into a heat exchanger. NBD really. The air temp. in this room will be fairly well controlled, and I will not install the cooling system until I know that I really need it. But it will be much less expensive to run that freezer than to run a chiller, and if you look at this TOTM (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-07/totm/index.php) you'll see where I got the idea. he uses a ground coil which is also an option here.--J

jnarowe
10/30/2005, 05:44 PM
Look what I found inside the working pump. I pulled off the plumbing adapters and this was just inside the pump body. It appears to be some kind of tubing that was totally twisted up. I guess the guy I bought it from wasn't getting all the circulation he thougt!

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tubing.jpg

That's one big obstruction!--J

NeilsReef
10/30/2005, 07:14 PM
Originally posted by jnarowe
Look what I found inside the working pump. I pulled off the plumbing adapters and this was just inside the pump body. It appears to be some kind of tubing that was totally twisted up. I guess the guy I bought it from wasn't getting all the circulation he thougt!

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tubing.jpg

That's one big obstruction!--J

Interesting find!

jnarowe
10/30/2005, 07:43 PM
Hard to believe but good thing these pumps don't have rubber impellers. I try to imagine what happened, like one day some tubing went missing and he couldn't find it anywhere. Good lesson really, that if you can't find something, it may be stuck in your pump. Shows just how powerfull these Sequence pums really are.--J

jnarowe
10/30/2005, 07:45 PM
My curiosity got the best of me so I unravelled it as best I could. Looks like about 7-8 feet of 1/4" tubing.--J

melev
10/30/2005, 08:51 PM
:lol:

jnarowe
11/03/2005, 04:16 PM
Ok...quick update. I am starting framing on the sound walls and have had a terrible time with the cement floor (225 sq. ft.). I mean really bad. I want to seal it but it has a thick layer of over-spray & texture that is very difficult to remove.

Let me count the ways:

1. sanding with an orbital & 60 grit (loaded up very fast)

2. using citris strip & a putty knife (not effective)

3. using citris strip & a floor scraper (very effective for top layer, complete and total mess, I can't even describe other than to say one of the worst messes I have ever made.)

4. using citris strip and a 3M abrasive pad (somewhat good but terribly hard work. It would take 5 days to do the whole floor at best.)

5. using a wire brush (somewhat effective but back-breaking)

6. using a grinder with wire brush attachment (worked great until it heated up and turned the paint & texture into black tar)

7. using a grinder & a multi-layer 32 grit pad (works well but also extremely labor intensive)

Still not done. I can't seal over the paint/texture because it would come off and be a waste of time.

After 3 days of struggling I decided to give up. I picked up the 3M pad that had been sitting on the floor for over a day, and guess what? The floor was totally stripped under the pad. It was still wet and goopy with citris strip. So I will try small sections and leave it for a day and see what happens.

Lots of stuff coming in but I am too busy to post pics. Got The Blue Wave 1000W MH ballasts, Ushio 1000W MH 20K lamps, tiger shark magnet and more all in from ReefGeek. he seems like a nice guy and gave me a good deal on the lighting. I think I will do business with him again.

melev I put brackets on the header so you can sleep better at night, and I'll post a pic when I get the chance.--J

melev
11/03/2005, 10:45 PM
Jay (is it Jay?), you might try something larger as the stripping pad, like some type of a/c filter or water cooler pad. Then you can pour that stripping on the surface, brush it around and lay the pad on top to prevent evaporation.

Stripping concrete is no fun, but with the right equipment it is plausible. I've used a low speed buffer with commercial stripper, and even used a metal screen that is round like a buffing pad to hit the difficult or rusty spots. When you are done, it needs to be clean of all chemicals, and dry out for at least 48 hours before applying whatever treatment you've got in mind. If moisture is trapped beneath the new coating, it will cause that new stuff to lift off the concrete and it will peel away in patches.

You almost want to acid wash it, I would think. My specialty is in VCT, not concrete.

NexDog
11/04/2005, 02:10 AM
Ah, that's what you mean by "Occupation: Professional Stripper". ;)

melev
11/04/2005, 02:16 AM
Yeah. Occasionally I share samples (http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com) of my work. :D

jnarowe
11/04/2005, 09:14 AM
It has indeed been very tough with the floor. Your idea of laying the pad over it is good, and apparently I proved that yesterday. Maybe some oilsorb pads would work since they don't absorb water? That's a marine item I sell and they are very cheap. Acid washing is too much for me to handle. If you saw the mess I created with citris strip and a hose you would laugh all day long.

Please remove that music from your web site. it's so annoying I couldn't stay on it for even one minute, and I would like to check out your work. I guess I could mute my speakers....life is so complicated!

BTW, it's Jonathan not "jay" but who cares really?

melev
11/04/2005, 09:19 AM
I like to know first names when I address people, but admittedly I forget them if I don't use them a lot. Thanks though.

Yeah, just mute the speakers. I rarely visit my site, so it is nice to hear some chipper music when I do stop in.

JCURRY@WESKETCH
11/04/2005, 11:42 AM
Try putting polyethelene plastic over the stripper to keep it from evaporating. They sell 1 mil plastic sheets as drop cloths in HD. Let it sit for as long as it takes, then wipe up w/ paper towels.

jnarowe
11/04/2005, 12:11 PM
Marc I have never been good with names and since my stroke, I have ZERO short-term memory. That's why I address posters with their user name.

JCURRY@WESKETCH Great idea on the plastic. I have been spraying with a water bottle, but if i miss it I am screwed. Thanks for the tip!

JCURRY@WESKETCH
11/04/2005, 12:16 PM
When I strip the woodwork in my house I pour the stripper on 1/8" thk. +/- and cover with plastic wrap until its completely soft. Just pour the citrus strip on the floor & cover with plastic and let it sit. Don't forget you will need to neutralize the floor after you clean up the stripper or the sealer will peel up.

jnarowe
11/04/2005, 10:54 PM
what do I neutralize with?

melev
11/04/2005, 11:07 PM
Typically water mixed with "neutral" cleaner. There are plenty of Neutral cleaners on the market, including Zep, a product carried by Home Depot.

Rmember, let the floor dry out for at least 24 hours before applying your final treatment.

jarhed
11/04/2005, 11:15 PM
Originally posted by melev
Typically water mixed with "neutral" cleaner. There are plenty of Neutral cleaners on the market, including Zep, a product carried by Home Depot.


We used to use that stuff in the Corps to clean rifles..... when we could get away with it. Stuff cleaned the bluing right off the barrels!! :eek1:

HIGHLY potent stuff!

olkeller
11/06/2005, 11:52 AM
so what have you done this week end

olkeller
11/06/2005, 11:52 AM
so what have you done this week end

jnarowe
11/06/2005, 12:09 PM
well, no pain no gain right??? I have finished insulating and screwing the lid, run the 100amp service line into the room, and I am working on the soffit over the tank and I may get one more wall sealed up. I also hope to get the ventilation outlet pipe installed. All easy stuff but time consuming as ever.

next couple of days I will finish installing 2 of the sound walls and bring the tank & stand into the room. That will allow me to button up the viewing room wall so I can get to mud and paint. I have to get that tank inside soon because the weather has changed and it's getting cold at night!--J

melev
11/06/2005, 12:45 PM
"the lid"?

jnarowe
11/06/2005, 01:32 PM
sorry, that's rural construction worker speak for the "ceiling". They don't have the word ceiling in their vocabulary. Hats are lids too. So is the hood of a car. It really just simplifies communication and narrows the range of vocabulary so that any dimwit can get in on the conversation. :twitch: --J

melev
11/06/2005, 01:39 PM
Well, I appreaciate the clarification because I never would have guess that. I figured it was a typo and I was trying to guess all the possible permutations of those three letters, and finally gave up and asked. :D

Hop
11/06/2005, 06:52 PM
but what if someone told you to go to their car and get their lid. Poor rural construction guy would be confused between grabbing the hat and removing the hood. AHHHHHHHH:hmm5: :hmm1: :hmm3:

DerekW
11/06/2005, 07:09 PM
Originally posted by jnarowe
sorry, that's rural construction worker speak for the "ceiling". They don't have the word ceiling in their vocabulary. Hats are lids too. So is the hood of a car. It really just simplifies communication and narrows the range of vocabulary so that any dimwit can get in on the conversation. :twitch: --J


I guess Marc's not just any dimwit







:p

jnarowe
11/06/2005, 07:21 PM
well, I am a master of assimilation, and quite frankly, in Beverly Hills where I used to live, none of my friends would even touch lumber. Here in Kitsap county, if you don't know what a lid is, you have to ride the short bus.

Remember what we used to call a lid? Survey says: If you don't, you're to young to be in the same room as me. :D

Pics coming soon...

DerekW
11/06/2005, 07:33 PM
I'm at the very end of the baby boomer generation, pushing "generation X", but I know what lid you're referring to.


:wildone: :bum:

jnarowe
11/06/2005, 07:50 PM
Some pics...I know it doesn't seem like much but it is taking some time to get all the owrk done. I think the tank will be in the room this week though.

This one is for Marc so he can sleep at night!
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/brace1.jpg

North wall with rigid insulation over cement foundation and fresh air input.
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/northwall_ins.jpg

Different angle of North wall showing bothh fresh air input (square) and 6" exhaust (round).

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/wall_board1.jpg

Shot of soffit over tank during insulation. 12" of insulation throughout the ceiling and we are stuffing it around the heating duct. It looks tight with that duct work above the tank, but it is only 24" deep and I will still be able to access all parts of the tank and direct light wherever needed (I HOPE!!).

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/soffit_ins.jpg [IMG]

The green board is actual very "aquatic" looking. Maybe I should clear coat it rather than paint it with gray bilge paint???--J

melev
11/07/2005, 12:30 AM
Originally posted by jnarowe
This one is for Marc so he can sleep at night!
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/brace1.jpg


You have to admit that is sexier than just balancing the beam up there. :lol: Now I bet <b>you</b> can sleep better at night.

jnarowe
11/07/2005, 08:56 AM
Are you kidding?? House surfing is one of my favorite hobbies! I have been through so many earthquakes I find them somewhat fun. BTW, gaps on the ends of the beam are better than a tight fit when you consider earthquakes. A little give is better. That's why wooden homes fare better than brick.--J

PS. Can I send anyone some fiberglass fibers?

jnarowe
11/08/2005, 09:36 PM
Good news! Tank is inside the house, stand is in the tank room, and I am getting ready to build the "pony" wall that forms the lower viewing room wall below the tank. I can't build it until the tank is inside the room, and I can't finish the other walls until the pony wall is built and I have run the wiring through it.

Right now I am coating the stand top with West System resin, painting the foam underlayment, and painting the replacement house trim that I removed when we removed the slider to get the tank in.

I am greatly relieved to have the tank inside because temps. are dipping lower now and I don't want any thermal accidents!

The thought just occured to me that once the wall is built, I can't remove the tank....--J

Hop
11/09/2005, 03:22 AM
Progress! But once the tank is in, you will find that sleep takes a back seat, or at least it did for me. My brain kept telling me that it was silly to have such a big tank in the house without water inside it:)

EnglishRebel
11/09/2005, 08:28 AM
jnarowe
Just a thought but have you considered covering the walls with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic)? If you've ever been in a Waffle House bathroom you will know what I mean. It would save you having to tape, mud, and paint the walls (with a good epoxy paint). You may even save a little money by using regular sheetrock as opposed to blue board. I believe if you caulk the panel joints before applying the cover strip it should be more or less waterproof.

jnarowe
11/09/2005, 09:20 AM
ER: I looked and looked for an alternative to sheet rock because I think it,s horribly over-rated but could only find the rather expensive plastic board. Is that what you are talking about or what?

1/3 of Green board is already up, and I used plywood over the tank for a better anchoring surface.

What is FRP?--J

CTS
11/09/2005, 09:44 AM
tagging along...this is going to be sweet. Good luck

jnarowe
11/09/2005, 10:12 AM
Good luck? LOL...funny guy.--J

jnarowe
11/10/2005, 02:45 PM
http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/pony_wall.jpg

sixxer
11/10/2005, 04:26 PM
Lookin Good!!!!

Is the tank going to be viewable from just one side?

jnarowe
11/11/2005, 03:08 PM
sixxer Unfortunately yes. I contemplated this for months because I really wanted a 3-sided or even 4-sided display, but when I weighed out all the pros & cons, the in-wall design won easily. The saving grace is that I can view all 4 sides whenever I want, so in reality, NBD!!

NEWS: Just got in my AC III Pro setup which includes all the probes, Aquanotes software, and 3 DC4HD units. It all looks sweet, but I cannot tell how it performs yet, of course.

I did browse the manual and I must say it looks a bit complicated to set up and I did not see any instructions on how to integrate it with Aquanotes nor how to use it with a wireless router. I was horribly tired when I read it, so maybe reading it a couple more times will clear that up.

I got it through my LFS Ocean Reef Aquatics (http://www.oceanreefaquatics.com/) at a very good price. He is a start up business right now and very willing to help those "special needs" customers like myself and work on pricing issues too. Mario is the owner and he is a very nice guy who makes no claims to being more knowledgable than the next guy, but clearly has a friendly, accomodating business style.

Kent E
11/11/2005, 04:19 PM
construction looks great! Seeing it in scale that header is plenty.

jnarowe
11/11/2005, 04:31 PM
I would say so. At 18" tall, it has only 1/16" deflection in my application. Oddly, this is the only load bearing wall downstairs. It is the bottom floor of a 2,700 sq. ft. "wing" of the house so it is holding up a good part of 1,300 sq. ft. I am very happy with it and very happy that it was inexpensive.

richfavinger
11/11/2005, 10:04 PM
Only a 1000g system, aww man... :D
Now lets not forget the photo of your chosen family member IN the tank, before you fill it, it is a must! ;)

Rich

Hop
11/11/2005, 10:06 PM
ROFL... Since he is off line I'll post this one for him:)
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/833221000g_front-u.gif

richfavinger
11/11/2005, 10:08 PM
Hop, that our 450?
Looks small LOL, I liked your other photo better :D Still shows nice scale tho'.

Rich :D

Hop
11/11/2005, 10:14 PM
That's jnarowe's tank... I took it out of his gallery:)

jnarowe
11/11/2005, 11:12 PM
Just got home. My hot wife won't get into the tank for a picture. Oh well, my son is on-board!--J

Hop
11/12/2005, 12:03 AM
Originally posted by jnarowe
Just got home. My hot wife won't get into the tank for a picture. Oh well, my son is on-board!--J

Try a little wine. Always works for me:celeb1:

asnatlas
11/12/2005, 01:02 AM
Originally posted by Hop
Try a little wine. Always works for me:celeb1:

ROFL, I will have to rem that :)

Shawn

ohioreef
11/12/2005, 02:59 AM
A hot wife in the tank is always a good thing!! :)

What are the dimensions of that tank?

asnatlas
11/12/2005, 03:17 AM
Originally posted by ohioreefer
What are the dimensions of that tank?

Originally posted by jnarowe
It will be in-wall, 8'L x 5'D x 35"H, with refugium, DIY skimmer, etc.

Shawn

asnatlas
11/12/2005, 03:22 AM
Originally posted by ohioreefer
A hot wife in the tank is always a good thing!! :)

I agree, hot women and tanks always a good combo :)

shawn

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 10:21 AM
No can do on the wine...I don't let her drink any more. Very sad for an Irish Jew like myself!:fun5:

Hop
11/12/2005, 10:23 AM
Originally posted by jnarowe
No can do on the wine...I don't let her drink any more. Very sad for an Irish Jew like myself!:fun5:

So don't let her drink any less and maybe she'll get in the tank:crazy1: :fun4: :lol:

Hop
11/12/2005, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by asnatlas
I agree, hot women and tanks always a good combo :)

shawn
Tanks are a lot like old lifted jeeps with the hard top off.. They make women look better no matter what:)

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 10:32 AM
LOL...correct on both. Oh, now she says she'll get in the tank...and our son is away on a sleep-over.

Hop
11/12/2005, 10:43 AM
Whooooaaaa.... Wrong forum:D


So after the "tank shots", what are you going to do today?

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 11:42 AM
Pick my son up from the over-night, take him to the Dojo, run into town to make a deposit for the store, put 2 coats of paint on the trim in a bedroom I am remodeling, tear out the upper pony wall and re-do (it is not exactly even), run telephone wire through the walls, drill holes for the RG11 cable...

The project is on hold until the RG11 comes in. I can't button up the walls until that is installed, and it can't be purchased locally. I installed RG6 coax for our LCD HDTV, and it is barely enough capacity to run the HDTV even with a booster. I hate (HATE ) running wire after the walls are in, and I really hate running wire that will not handle the signal. Even with a straight run of RG6, our HDTV will pixelate out when a lot of data is being transmitted. Part of that is the run length, part is the wire capacity, and part is the signal being received. But we are getting a huge drop from the input to the TV so I want to insure as best I can that at least what I am installing is top-notch.

Oh well, I need a little break anyway. Oh, and I can finish rebuilding the Sequence return pump.

richfavinger
11/12/2005, 11:53 AM
While the son is away, mom n' dad will play!
Hmm, lets see now from the last few comments, son away, tank empty, hot woman + tank = ??? Just don't crack the tank ya'll! ;)

BTW, what's your son study in the dojo?
I teach judo myself, and am a 1st Degree Brown Belt (Black's next!). Been in it for 11 years now.

Rich :D

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 01:56 PM
He is studyinig Aikido. I don't personally think that young kids should be involved with attack arts until they have some mastery over their mind. He is an Orange belt. Our Dojo is non-profit and adults do not wear colored belts until they are in a hakima. It's a bit unusual but I like the way they treat "status" within the Dojo.

The kids get colored belts as more of a means to keep them interested and because the other arts do as well. The story is that you get a black belt when your white belt has turned black from years of use.

I was on the mat with him until I had my stroke. I want to get back into it, but rolling is a major part of Aikido, and that is still a no-no for me. BTW, Our fish viewing room has 15' x 15' of grapple mat.

It would be difficult to crack this tank, but I have blown the foot board out of a waterbed in the past.:D

NexDog
11/12/2005, 07:23 PM
Jonathan - that's the true Japanese way - cool. :) The philosophy is that you're only a beginner until you get your hakama (black belt) and even then you're at the lowest level. Something quite humbling about having to stay in a white belt for years and years. And true about the white belt turning black story. I heard that from one of my teachers too. Funny thing is that after you get the back belt the next step is going white again. A well-worn black belt goes light grey after many years of use so it's like a full circle. :)

Hope you can get back into it soon!

Kent E
11/12/2005, 08:08 PM
I don't think they were worried about your foot...

simonmr
11/12/2005, 08:22 PM
it took me about 7 years to get my first hakama

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 08:42 PM
simonmr 7 years is a very short time in relation to Aikido.

Kent E yes, I suppose the foot is the farthest from the action, right?

NexDog Exactly. I took Aikido for a very short time when I was a pre-teen at Summer Camp. They offered it as a class. In my late 20's it came back to save my life. I was an avid mountain biker and riding down a steep hill that was mostly sand. Suddenly my front wheel hit a buried rock and I went into a perfect arc. I was about to land squarely on my head and it surely would have broken my spine, but that "roll" took over. I rolled and landed rolling on my right shoulder. It snapped my AC joint but I considered that lucky. I then hiked 3 miles out with my bike. The shoulder is essentially un-fixable, but that's better than checking out before 30!

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 08:43 PM
simonmr BTW, got any pictures of your system? And what kind of cooking do you do?

richfavinger
11/12/2005, 08:55 PM
Most excellent... I have plants to do Aikido after I get my black belt in judo. (We'll see) I love the art. And yes I agree 100% with the philosophy you describe. The colored belt system in the West, is over stylized. And too much emphasis is placed on what color they are and not what they really know. Seeing 10yo black belts (not that they did not work hard) I find disturbing. Many commercialized clubs promote every 4 to 6 months, and make it a point to have 2 or 3 (and charge you) sub ranks or Mon-Stripes between solid colors.

By the way, Judo was the art that made the colored belt system that all Western Japanese arts use (Some modifications here and there for different arts) but judo was the first. In Japan, there are only really three ranks, White, Brown, Black!

I am well aware of the story of the White Belt dirtied to black, and then fades back to white, symbolizing full circle. And that once you think you know something, you find you know less then you really think. In Japan, in Judo, the youngest black belt age is 17. (Kodokan rules).

I think Aikido is great for kids, as long as the sensei is OK as well. It is a "Soft Art" after-all, and like any art should only be used as a last resort, on the street.

So, to you and your son, I say good job. And keep it up guys! :thumbsup:
You are welcome to my dojo any time your in PA...
http://www.pottstownjudo.com/
If all goes well, I should have my black belt in judo, in about a year to 18mo from now. (Time in Grade). As mentioned before I have been in Judo for 11 years now.

Rich :wave:

jnarowe
11/12/2005, 10:31 PM
I don't think they let plants take Aikido (jk!). In our Dojo, there is a minimum of time to reach a belt, but the Sensei does not ask a student to take a test unless they have proven that they are ready, and often it is surprising when someone isn't asked to test. The way it is explained is that although the student may be able to recite and perform all required excercises, the Sensei looks for personal growth, maturity etc. as well.

Sometimes they ask students to test who appear not ready, and that can be frustrating, especially for the parents, but still the guideline is personal growth. The mature adults and students alike really are not there for the belts anyway. My son had more than enough time and knew all the elements of the Orange belt, but was not asked to test. I asked him how he felt about it and he stated flatly that it doesn't matter. IMO, that's good personal growth. He waited until it was his time, and that is part of the training.

Pottstown Judo has a nice web site. We are at Kitsap Aikido (http://www.kitsapaikido.org/). Ai!

richfavinger
11/13/2005, 07:16 AM
eeekkk... LOL, Nice catch LOL, I spell checked that like 10 times before I posted it :D Oh well...

Good...! I like to see it when some one is more interested in what they know, rather then what belt color they have on. And thank you for the comments on the site, I am the webmaster. :D

Rich

NexDog
11/13/2005, 08:19 AM
jnarowe - I had a similar incident but on a snowboard about 5 years ago. I came off a quarter-pipe all wrong and shattered my shoulder and severed all the ligaments. I had surgery but they couldn't get the ligaments back. So my clavicle just flops around on top of my shoulder, heh. Muscles still keep it in place and only looks slightly lifted up and doesn't disable me at all. Considering I crashed down on the back of my neck on solid ice from quite a height, I got off lightly - but only due to quick reflexes and solid ukemi.

I actually got my black belt in 4 years but I did train 2 or 3 times a day 6 days a week. I don't have that much time anymore so I'm still a lowly shodan 6 years later and no closer to nidan. In fact one guy who was my protege already has his second dan. Hoping next year I can be back in full force.

Anyhow, is this a reefing forum? :D

jnarowe
11/13/2005, 11:44 AM
Yeah, my doc said there are several "fixes" for the AC joint, and the reason is that none of them really work. Same thing, the muscles keep it together, but I imagine for my wife it must look strange to see that bone popping out of my shoulder.

I tell my buddies, "come on, touch it," and none of them will even look at it. Cowards! LOL...

This is a reef forum, but hey, anytime is the right time for Dojo talk.--J

sixxer
11/13/2005, 12:01 PM
So do you have the tank up on the stand now??????? J/K

I just want to see some pics. since my tank build is moving so slowly!:D

jnarowe
11/13/2005, 05:38 PM
Not on the stand yet. That's a timing issue with my buddies. Got the RG11 home runs brought into the room, re-did the upper pony wall 'cause it was bugging me, and got some green rock on the inside of the viewing room wall. Made some progress. I am about 2/3 done with the walls so there is some light at the end of the tunnel now. Not much to take pics of though. Everyone has seen a wall before!

jnarowe
11/25/2005, 10:32 PM
Sorry no recent posts..visitors etc. keeping the work down. Had a fun little accident today. I had to extend the sink water supply lines to allow for the extra wall depth. Took a while to get it all straightened out with the correct pieces etc. Finally got it all together, mounted the sheet rock, and installed the spigots.

I double checked that the spigots were closed and left the bathroom sink faucet on to relieve any pressure if there was some kind of a problem. I turned the water back on and when I got to the tank room, I heard a very loud water spray noise.

Although I had been careful to close the valves, I neglected to close the tiny extra valve for the RO/DI line, and it was spraying directly at the ceiling. I dove in and shut it off. Everything seems OK now, but all my tools got soaked and I have to wait until the sheet rock dries before I can finish screwing it in. Always something fun going on!

jnarowe
11/25/2005, 10:33 PM
Sorry no recent posts..visitors etc. keeping the work down. Had a fun little accident today. I had to extend the sink water supply lines to allow for the extra wall depth. Took a while to get it all straightened out with the correct pieces etc. Finally got it all together, mounted the sheet rock, and installed the spigots.

I double checked that the spigots were closed and left the bathroom sink faucet on to relieve any pressure if there was some kind of a problem. I turned the water back on and when I got to the tank room, I heard a very loud water spray noise.

Although I had been careful to close the valves, I neglected to close the tiny extra valve for the RO/DI line, and it was spraying directly at the ceiling. I dove in and shut it off. Everything seems OK now, but all my tools got soaked and I have to wait until the sheet rock dries before I can finish screwing it in. Always something fun going on!

Tank is on the stand and I only need to rock around the door.

NexDog
11/25/2005, 11:26 PM
I've had loads of spillages due to forgetting to close ball valves. Just happy that I don't have carpet to deal with. :D

jnarowe
11/26/2005, 12:17 PM
I hear ya. I wish I could install a floor drain but it is just not practical in this situation. I am going to use a WaterBug hooked into the ACIII to start sump pumps in the case of a catastrophic spill. And the wet/dry shopvac sure does come in handy!

jnarowe
12/01/2005, 03:03 PM
Just a quick update: I am in the middle of taping and mudding the walls and ceiling, and let me just say that this is a serious B-I-T-C-H!! I probably should have hired someone to do this but I am just too stubborn.

I bought a stirring bit to fit the 5 gal. mud bucket, but it wouldn't fit my 3/8" drill. I then bought an adapter chuck to make it 1/2" drive ($25) and proceeded to mix my mud. After a minute or two, the drill (Dewalt) started smoking. I really had no choice so I just kept stirring. It continued to smoke. Seemed to be getting a little dangerous so I finished up and unplugged it. It still works, but I am doubtful that it will last very long.

So far this 3-day taping project has already taken 3 days just to get started.

onetrickpony
12/01/2005, 06:21 PM
I have to say that taping, mudding, texturing
Is my least favorite thing to do?
It always takes me way too long, I tend to be to picky
Sand off way to much reapply, reapply, reapply
You have made great progress and the end is near :rollface:
Keep going
I can’t wait for more pictures
Ken

jnarowe
12/01/2005, 07:03 PM
I really appreciate the encouragement. I can't believe how sucky this part is. I have a section over the tank that is plywood rather than green board, and that has been trouble too since I didn't sand it before taping. That has gotten a lot of wood pieces etc. in the mud and made it completely out-of-hand.

I have stopped for now, and when I start again I will sand the entire plywood area first. Such a thin line between sanity and total bedlam.

Kent E
12/01/2005, 10:47 PM
less is more. I love finish work.

For a floor drain, drill a small hole and it should drain down to the crushed stone under the slab. Just don't drain your whole tank into it.

dzovi
12/02/2005, 09:38 AM
Double post. Sorry.

dzovi
12/02/2005, 09:39 AM
I wouldn’t recommend installing a drain to run under your foundation slab. The increase in moisture could cause your finish floor to fail. All that added moisture could cause serious problems if your concrete becomes too saturated. I don't think you'd want to ruin that moisture barrier under your house. Also I you wouldn’t want to risk the loss of soil compaction under your house. That could cause the concrete to crack if it isn’t properly supported by the compact dirt. I’d think this would be especially important under a 1000 gallon tank. Just my thoughts though.

WAGERJA
12/02/2005, 10:58 AM
I'm in 100% agreement with dzovi

Great project so far. :thumbsup:

I'll go back to lurking now... :D

-J

WAGERJA
12/02/2005, 10:58 AM
sorry DP.

RC has the hicups today.
:rolleyes:

jnarowe
12/02/2005, 11:20 AM
Kent E No way Jose! Our water table is high enough already. I have been very fortunate that we do not have any moisture coming up though the slab and I do not want to screw with that. The way it would have to be done is to wreck out a path for a drain line and it just gets to complicated for my feeble head.

Being in the Northwest creates water issues that must be very carefully managed. Our home is on a gentle sloped lot 180 x 600 with a creek running length-wise about 70' from the house and meeting a stream about 350' down-slope from the house. The hard pan is at about 2-3' below the surface and a significant area of our back yard is sand. We have a Weeping Alaska Cedar that was just under 6' when we planted it in 100% sand in 1998. It is now about 30' tall. Shall we estimate that there is a lot of water and nutrients flowing through the property??:D

Anyway, no holes under the house. I wouldn't want to create a spa for the Norwegian rats!

WAGERJA Thanks for the thumbs up. I need it right now.

Kent E
12/02/2005, 11:42 AM
I guess I didn't take that into consideration. No problems with that up here in the great white north, provided that the house isn't in a floor plain. It's not uncommon up here to see small drain holes. Infact many new furnaces are installed just so.

jnarowe
12/02/2005, 12:53 PM
I have seen furnaces installed that way here too, and quite frankly, that is essentially a bogus way to do it. That's paying a professional to do an amatuer job. The inside unit on the heat pump at my store has a drain line going below the floor also. That is just for condensation run-off though, so the water accumulation aspect would be minimal if any. The floor is also 1 foot thick. Still not a good idea to run water under a building.

I have a neighbor who just built a house and he put in such extensive drainage under and around the pad you wouldn't believe it. The whole thing is on top of what amounts to a drain field, crushed rock, styrofoam, with heating coils in the pad. He built on the last "lot" that was basically a marsh. The coyotes howled for 2 weeks after they cleared the lot.

jnarowe
12/10/2005, 12:53 AM
OK, finally got something done. Below are the pictures of the drywall taped, muded, and sanded. Ready to paint!

That was a miserable job, and for those of you trying to learn something from this thread, I have some of tidbits you should take notes on:

1. Do NOT open your mouth while applying mud to the ceiling.

2. Do NOT leave supply boxes and especially open tool caddies in the room while you mud and tape.

3. Do NOT clean the floor before you mud and tape.

4. Do NOT do this kind of work without a hat.

5. Do NOT wear the same shoes you work in around the house.

BTW, I know it's a bit hard to see, but that thing in the corner is the tank.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tape__mud001_edited.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tape__mud002_edited.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tape__mud003_edited.jpg

Hop
12/10/2005, 01:12 AM
So it sounds like you are quite happy with your new drywall career! Nice progress, but what are you going to do now that the fun has ended?

Lunchbucket
12/10/2005, 09:12 AM
at least you are making progress!

Lunchbucket

SVTour
12/10/2005, 09:54 AM
I agree...drywall sux. :lol:

Great project though. :thumbsup:

jnarowe
12/10/2005, 11:32 AM
HOP: Fun ended? Don't forget I still have to strip that damn floor and polish the tank before I can even get near the fun stuff.

SVTour: Got to compliment you on yuor drywall instalation. It looks quite a bit nicer than mine. You know I used 7-1/2 gallons of mud inside my fish room?

And that brings me to an amendment of my previous post:

6. For all you reefers that understand the phrase, "horribly innaccurate", I add those project calculators at Home Depot, which told me I would need under 3 gallons of mud, 7 less sheets of green board, and about 1000 less screws.

jnarowe
12/10/2005, 07:32 PM
Quick update:

Took all day to put on one coat of bilge paint and it soaked in like a sponge. I guess the sales rep. was wrong when she said I didn't need any primer. It's good stuff but wow, what an odor!! I can feel the good brain cells pushing the bad ones under the bus right now.

Second coat tommorrow, if i wake up.:D

rjwilson37
12/10/2005, 08:05 PM
lol, that is pretty funny! If I Wake Up! hehehehe.

I need some light humor right now, I have put in an 80 hour work week so far.

jnarowe
12/13/2005, 04:11 PM
80 hours is way too much. I hope you aren't working for someone else!!

Here's a pic of the room after the 3rd coat of paint. I got so looped on the 2nd coat that I thinned it too much and only used a half gallon for the entire room. oooops!

You can see I decided to rig up one of the 6" fans to help with ventillation, and it went much better today, taking a normal amount of time to coat the room. That was 2 hours rather than 6 on each of the first coats!

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/tank_room_paint001.JPG

Nice fan. I have 3 of them given to me by a friend. They really hum.

tgunn
12/13/2005, 05:09 PM
Looking good! Wow, those are some shiny walls! You can just hose the place clean when it get's dirty!

I know what you mean about fumes; I made the mistake of priming my stippled ceiling with alkyd primer in the middle of the winter (ie no windows opened). I got so whacked out of it that I stepped in the paint tray and then knocked it over while trying to pick it up.

If you're doing more work with that stuff pick up a half face respirator; it saved me a lot of brain cells.

Tyler

jnarowe
12/13/2005, 05:37 PM
I have a respirator but I just plain hate wearing it. Sometimes you have to sacrifice health for style!

Shiny walls is right. I don't think I will ever have to worry about moisture damage!

SVTour
12/14/2005, 07:39 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6257456#post6257456 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
SVTour: Got to compliment you on yuor drywall instalation. It looks quite a bit nicer than mine. You know I used 7-1/2 gallons of mud inside my fish room?

And that brings me to an amendment of my previous post:

6. For all you reefers that understand the phrase, "horribly innaccurate", I add those project calculators at Home Depot, which told me I would need under 3 gallons of mud, 7 less sheets of green board, and about 1000 less screws.

Thanks for the compliment...once it's sanded, primed, and painted, they all look the same ;)

As for your HD estimate...my wife is thinking I have the same great ability. When I got into saltwater, I told her it was a few hundred dollar upgrade to my existing tank. I have just under 4 grand in my 90...and another 2 in a 220 that's not even filled yet :lol: It's only money...right?

jnarowe
12/14/2005, 08:50 AM
ssshhhhhh!!! My God, she'll hear you!:cool:

SVTour
12/14/2005, 09:51 AM
She does all the bills...so there's absolutley no hiding it for me.

quote: I have a respirator but I just plain hate wearing it. Sometimes you have to sacrifice health for style!

Yeah, but who wants to blow plaster shnoogies for the following 24 hours. Actually, you probably could have saved a gallon of spakle just by reusing it. :lol:

jnarowe
12/15/2005, 09:05 PM
Joey I will be finding spackle(mud) for years I am sure.

Got the overhead lights and the main power panel installed today. It's amazing how long things take when I am trying to prevent moisture damage.

The stripper is taking its sweet time so I still have the plastic down on the first half of the room. I pulled it up today and added a little water.

I tested out my micro-mesh polishing kit today and am very happy with the results. Didn't take as long as I thought and it looks very good. Of course, polishing the whole tank will be quite a chore. I will do the entire top side of the tank tommorrow.

Kent E
12/15/2005, 10:42 PM
I'm doing my fishroom, and I too, share in the white boogies. Your right drywall mudding is no fun. But its on to bigger and better things!

Hop
12/15/2005, 11:05 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6294623#post6294623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Joey
The stripper is taking its sweet time so I still have the plastic down on the first half of the room. I pulled it up today and added a little water.


I have to read the posts in order next time. I was WAY off track when I read this:D

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 09:40 PM
HOP: He he...

I am finally into the tank polishing and I have a couple of photos for you. The top one is of the scratch sent by the guy who sold me the tank, and the bottom one is after it had been fixed. I didn't have good natural light and when I used the flash it was too bright, but you get the idea. It doesn't really matter because the scratch area will not be visible, but I just wanted to see if I could remove it.

This scratch was at least an 8th of an inch deep. VERY deep. So I used a grinder with a 60 grit first. Then in order, 150, 220, 400, 1500, 2400, 3600, and buffed with poish.

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S1.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S2.jpg

kysmith
12/17/2005, 10:39 PM
how about some more shots? :)

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 11:02 PM
Funny, I was just reviewing the thread and noticed not many photos of the tank. Here are some from before I bought it:

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S3.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S4.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S5.jpg

http://www.marinamarket.com/Reef%20Photos/Construction/Reef%20S6.jpg

kysmith
12/17/2005, 11:10 PM
What a MONSTER that thing is!!

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 11:22 PM
LOL...yeah, it was in his Mom's garage!

It will be plumbed completely different with no corner overflow. It was originally a shark tank.

I am building an external overflow the length of the tank (96") and will have four 1" return lines going to the front 2 corners and in the middle of the 1/3rd lines. The overflow will have two 2" bulkheads and one 1-1/2" bulkhead feeding the skimmer directly.

The return pump will go to the 4 return lines and the refugium, which will also overflow into the display from above.

The rest of the flow will be the yet to be released magnetic power heads from Ice Cap/Eco-Tech.

sixxer
12/17/2005, 11:30 PM
WOW!!!!!!!!!

Can't wait to see that set up as a Reef. The tank will look much larger than it did as a shark tank when it's filled with corals!!!!

Damn-it!!!!! My tank is not even holding water and I'm ready to upgrade!!!!!:lol:

rjwilson37
12/17/2005, 11:49 PM
I can't wait to see it setup and running, it is going to be awesome.

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 11:51 PM
When I was thinking about buying it, I took my wife down South to see it. We visited, messed around in Portland for a couple of days and went home. I made the deal and picked it up with a buddy.

About a week later my wife comes out on the deck and is chatting with me while I screw with the garden. She looks down and says, "What's that?" I replied, "That's the tank." She said, it looks so much larger than when we first saw it."

Total crack up. I really wanted to do a 3-sided in viewing room install, but there were so many reasons not to do it that I am going with in-wall.

Your stand looks great. Mine is entirely built with 4 x 4's so I am fairly confident of that. I have the whole thing on wheels right now while I work on the room and polish the tank. I had to bring it inside before I could complete the walls!

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 11:52 PM
BTW, in those pics, that is over 200lbs. of MI rock. I have it in a tank waiting for me to finish the install.

dzovi
12/17/2005, 11:57 PM
Just out of curiosity, what where the reason to not have a 3-sided viewing room in your opinion? A tank that is able to have that capability is a far cry from my 29 gallon but I'm just curious.

jnarowe
12/17/2005, 11:57 PM
rjwilson37 Well, if I had you consulting maybe...

jnarowe
12/18/2005, 12:09 AM
With a 29g it is easy. When tanks get larger, so do the impacts on the living space:

Cons:
--glare
--smell
--noise
--water damage
--moisture in the air
--it's much more difficult to do maintainance
--it's much more difficult to change equipment, plumbing, etc.
--you still need a place for a QT, storage etc.

Pros:
--3 dimensional world
--can look down into tank and follow inhabitants more easily
--much easier to aquascape when you can stand in front and move stuff around

With an in-wall, I can control room temp, humidity, noise, water seapage, salt creep, and be able to alter equipment much more easily. I can also have a 6' tall skimmer gravity fed. With a tank this size, there really is not practical way to get all the equipment, sumps, etc. under the stand, so I would have to go through the wall anyway. That would make changing plumbing, controlling noise etc. more difficult, and I would still have the noise, glare, heat, and moisture in the living space.

What really made the decision easier was that I (me, myself, & I) can look at all 4 sides of the tank any time I want and I can keep guests' hands out of the tank. The tank room has an exterior door with a dead bolt lock. I have seen some fabulous in-viewing room tanks, but I can't afford a cleaning crew and a maid to clean up after the cleaning crew.

dzovi
12/18/2005, 12:20 AM
Very well thought out. Another quick question, how do you plan on controlling the moisture from evaporation from the tank? Do you have to have an exhaust system? I noticed that you don't have FRP (Fiberglass reinforced plastic) walls. My question shows my naivety toward having a tank this large.

jnarowe
12/18/2005, 10:53 AM
Not naive at all. Fiber glass refinforced wall panels were a consideration but the expense was steep ($30 each) and they are not very good for attaching equipment, shelves etc.

In hindsite, I think the cost would have been not too bad and the labor significantly reduced. The issue is that you cannot just install that over studs. You still have to install sheet rock for sound abatement and fire safety. So in theory, you still have to do the whole mud and tape, paint etc. on the sheet rock before you install the FRP.

I could have skipped the bilge paint though, and the mud/tape job would have been much much faster. Truthfully though, with the bilge paint I have a seamless and totally waterproof room. If you saw it in person you would flip. I used the bilge paint primarily for it's benefits, but also because I own a marine store and can get it cheap. In fact, we sell all marine products at cost +10% so any reefers that want stuff should PM me.

As far as moisture, the room is totally sealed off from the house and I have three 6" fans to utilize for exhaust and a 12 x 12 attic vent for incoming air. I will have 2 fans on the tank area controlled by the AC III and one fan for the room controlled by a separate humidistat/temp controller. I am confident that this will be plenty, and in fact, I may not need a chiller because of the low ambient temps. here in the NW. My intake is actually under my deck soth air will always be cool.

rjwilson37
12/18/2005, 11:59 AM
hmmm.... sounds to complicated for someone like me, I like my simple little setup to the max right now. But... I am thinking I will have an in wall tank around a 180g, it will be sometime before that day comes though so I have plenty of planning time for that.

It is amazing how quickly I dove into my first 29g reef tank, moving from freshwater to saltwater. I planned and priced it out for about 2-3 weeks and I thought I had things figured out pretty good. ( :rolleyes: hehehe... boy was I wrong) The price quickly almost doubled by the time I got things going and then the ich thing came and the loses from reef safe ich medicine, then a quarantine tank so the price was still going up for this hobby. I have learned a lot over the past 3 years, moving from the 29g over to the 55g and then from the 55g to my current 90g tank, what a ride it has been.

All in all what I am trying to say, is that I admire your patience, dedication, and pay attention to detail attitude which will make this an amazing tank and I can't wait to see it going.

jnarowe
12/18/2005, 01:27 PM
Thanks for the compliments and they are a bit pre-mature!

I hear ya on the complexities of "moving up". I really distilled it to the fact that no matter what size tank I did, I would still have to deal with the sames basic issues. Keeping that as my "mantra" I found a large tank and dove in. It is not without its hardships and surpises, but I have seen so many successful tanks configured in so many different ways, that the odds are with me that whatever I do, as long as I don't panic, will be managable.

I didn't want to do the 125g and not be happy with the depth. I didn't want to do a 200g and have higher costs but run out of room. I didn't want to do a 300g because the tanks cost an arm & a leg. Then I fond the 1000g (used) for less than a new 200g. And BTW, I have testosterone in my system.

Please keep in mind that my system will be much simpler than most of this size. I will have limited number of pumps, only 3 lamps, gravity fed skimmer, sump, and the refugium will gravity feed the display. Less parts=more easy. I may not even have ball valves on my overflow lines because they aren't really needed. They would remain open all the time during operation and if I had to change something or clean the line, I can just screw a plug into the bulkhead.

A 180g will not be big enough for you.

:D

prostaff
12/25/2005, 12:43 AM
Jonathan
What did you end up using to seal your concrete floor? or is that not done yet?

prostaff
12/25/2005, 12:45 AM
Jonathan
What did you end up using to seal your concrete floor? or have you not done that yet?

jnarowe
12/25/2005, 01:12 PM
I just finished putting 6 thin coats of Jasco Cure-Seal last night. I applied it with a squeegie and it seems to be OK. I lament the fact that I had to get a "big box' store sealer, but the commercial grade stuff was not available in my immediate area and with the cost of shipping was just way too much money. Jasco makes good products so hopefully it will do fine.

Depending on what it looks like this morning, I may do more coats. I am so ready to get the base coving done and set the tank in place, but I suppose rushing at this point is not a good idea!

prostaff
12/25/2005, 03:01 PM
What would you recommend using to seal the floor if time was not a factor

jnarowe
12/25/2005, 03:18 PM
Time really isn't a factor for me, although I ***** about it a lot. There are so many cement sealing products available I don't know where to start for a recommendation except for Tennant. As long as you use good quality stuff, you should be OK. Just stay away from behr and other store brands. I have tried them with poor results on other projects (like the floor of my store).

The Jasco product is very user friendly in that it does not give off bad fumes, so that was nice after using the bilge paint on the walls. The best stuff comes from Tennant (http://www.tennantfloorcoatings.com/products/index.asp) but it can be very expensive to get it to you. This is the stuff the upper-end commercial floor finishers use. If you have the time and money, I wouldn't look at anything else.

prostaff
12/25/2005, 08:22 PM
Thanks Jonathan. I am guessing this stuff is not readily available at your local home depot. I did not see any ordering links on the web site. Thanks for the info

jnarowe
12/25/2005, 09:53 PM
Generally it is not available in any retail outlet but you could find it at places like Master Wholesale and other businesses that sell to the construction trade. They will usually sell to anyone who has a wallet.

Tennant does not have online ordering but you can call them up and they will send it to you. They do have a DIY section, but you can call up and talk to a tech. and they will help you out too. I can help you with product selection if you need it.

Tennant is a top-notch professional coating company that knows how to do business. The only reason I didn't use them was cost, and to be perfectly honest, I regret it. However, the quantity purchased would be more than needed for a fish room. If you need to do other areas like a patio or garage, I wouldn't hesitate to contact them.

jnarowe
12/26/2005, 04:53 PM
With the rubber base board set and caulked, my tank room will now hold water. The tank is set in place and now I get to begin the fun stuff!

Any reefers in the Kitsap area that need to move a tank, I have 3 furniture dollys and 8 suction cup handles.

prostaff
12/26/2005, 07:32 PM
We need pics and more pics. I am following this thread very closely. Looks like we are both doing the same thing and I too would like to keep any leaks in that room.

jnarowe
12/29/2005, 09:13 PM
OK...started routing out the overflow slots...that is NOT fun. Maybe I should have used a jig-saw?

Also semi-installed the utility sink. After 2 trips to the store, I still don't have all the right parts. I got the hot water line hooked up and tested it. That's when I realized i hadn't hooked up the drain yet.

The cold water line had a slight drip in it for about a month since I installed the extra valve for the RO water. So I shut down the water and re-did the fitting. This time I used pipe dope, and proved once again, that there is no bigger dope than me. Now I have 2 leaks!

Refugium stand is built and coated with resin. I am having a horrible time fitting the bulkheads that come in the Rubbermaid tanks. I can't get anything to thread into the inside FPT nor over the outside MPT. The outside FPT is a 1-1/4" which I have an adapter for but I would rather use a female adapter so I get more flow. Anyone have a solution for this?? Don't tell me, new bulkheads???

melev
12/29/2005, 09:46 PM
Those are notorious for leaks. Just seal the rubbermaid tank bulkhead and install your own.

jnarowe
12/29/2005, 11:06 PM
I really was hoping you wouldn't write that! Can I remove it and put another in its place?? Not much room the way the inside flange is built, but I would cut it out if I had too.

melev
12/30/2005, 01:51 AM
I don't know. I've never owned one of those, but every single post about them states to silicone that one well, and install your new one. I guess they install it elsewhere. Try asking kwl1763, he just worked on his own vats recently.

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 02:29 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6382442#post6382442 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Those are notorious for leaks. Just seal the rubbermaid tank bulkhead and install your own.

melev, is 110% right :( I have 3x 150gal poly tanks and every dang one of them had a small leak... I went to Savko and got some 1' sched 80 bulkheads and caps and installed those... No more leaks :)

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 02:35 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6382959#post6382959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
I really was hoping you wouldn't write that! Can I remove it and put another in its place?? Not much room the way the inside flange is built, but I would cut it out if I had too.

As I stated in the past post, you can removed the black bulkheads that comes with the poly tanks and replace them... I only like to use sched 80 as they are much better then sched 40 BH's... Heaver / stronger plastic, bigger rubber gaskets... I know with out any modifications to the org hole in the tank a 1' ID sched 80 BH will fit perfect... On my 50gal poly tank I wanted a bigger drain and so I had to notch out the flange as well as make the hole bigger but that was very easy with my dermal... I will take some pics and post...

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 02:39 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6383601#post6383601 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I don't know. I've never owned one of those, but every single post about them states to silicone that one well, and install your new one. I guess they install it elsewhere. Try asking kwl1763, he just worked on his own vats recently.

I will take some pics of what I did to my 150gal tanks that I will be using for my ref and sump...

jnarowe
12/31/2005, 11:49 AM
asnatlas Thanks for your posts. 1" is not going to cut it for me at all, but you bring up a good point about getting them and capping them. What do you think of just gluing a piece of acrylic or other plastic over the original hole?

prostaff
12/31/2005, 01:33 PM
Jonathan
Could you just remove the original bulkhead and make the hole bigger if necessary with a dremel or hole saw?Thats what I did with my 100gal rubbermaid. I needed a 1.5in bulkhead which required like a 2.25in hole. I did not have a dremel so I made a wooden template with the hole saw and then used that to make a guide for the rubbermaid. Might be a little easier than gluing and it would save on space

jnarowe
12/31/2005, 06:08 PM
that's a good suggestion but there is so little room for the flange on the inside of the tank. Which 1-1/2" bulkhead did you use??

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 06:10 PM
jnarowe, I took some pics today to show you what I was talking about... I will post them when I get to work...

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 07:29 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6390644#post6390644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
melev, is 110% right :( I have 3x 150gal poly tanks and every dang one of them had a small leak... I went to Savko and got some 1' sched 80 bulkheads and caps and installed those... No more leaks :)

Below is a pic of one of my 150gal that I have rock cooking in right now...

http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/150gal%201in%20sched%2080%20capped.JPG

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 07:30 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6390657#post6390657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
As I stated in the past post, you can removed the black bulkheads that comes with the poly tanks and replace them... I only like to use sched 80 as they are much better then sched 40 BH's... Heaver / stronger plastic, bigger rubber gaskets... I know with out any modifications to the org hole in the tank a 1' ID sched 80 BH will fit perfect... On my 50gal poly tank I wanted a bigger drain and so I had to notch out the flange as well as make the hole bigger but that was very easy with my dermal... I will take some pics and post...

Below are some pics of my 50gal (frag tank) that I have placed a 1 1/4" ID sched 80 BH in... I will be placing a 90deg on this and having a piece of 1 1/4 PVC sticking up for a stand pipe so that the water will fill up the tub and overflow down the PVC pipe...

http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/50gal%20sched%2080%20notched%20inside%201.JPG

http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/50gal%20sched%2080%20notched%20inside%202.JPG

http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/50gal%20sched%2080%20notched%20inside%203.JPG

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 07:30 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6390666#post6390666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
I will take some pics of what I did to my 150gal tanks that I will be using for my ref and sump...

http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/150gal%20drain%20near%20top.JPG

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 07:34 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6392243#post6392243 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
asnatlas Thanks for your posts. 1" is not going to cut it for me at all, but you bring up a good point about getting them and capping them. What do you think of just gluing a piece of acrylic or other plastic over the original hole?

The 1" sched 80 BH is only to replace the org one and cap it off, it’s not meant for a drain... If you look at the pic one post up, you can see that I put the drain near the top of the tub, you do not want to have the drain at the bottom unless you are going to put a 90deg on it and then a stand pipe so that the water will over flow near the top as if you just use the hole at the bottom and you have a power outage all of that water will drain out of the tub...

I guess you could glue some acrylic to over the hole... I personal feel safer with the sched 80 BH... Also at any time down the road if you would like to use that hole again for something, just remove the cap and or BH...

jnarowe
12/31/2005, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the posts Shawn. I see what you mean. I want to do the 90 on my refugium just the same as you did and I see how you cut the flange to fit in the BH. My refugium will be on a stand above the display so it will gravity feed the display. Using a 90 will enable level adjustment.

I had wanted to use the bottom holes for my sump because I am using 2 tubs side-by-side, one for inflow, and one for outflow, but clearly I will need a larger pipe. I think I will do two 1-1/2" down low and seal the original ones.

Thanks for the pics!

asnatlas
12/31/2005, 09:57 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6395600#post6395600 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Thanks for the posts Shawn. I see what you mean. I want to do the 90 on my refugium just the same as you did and I see how you cut the flange to fit in the BH. My refugium will be on a stand above the display so it will gravity feed the display. Using a 90 will enable level adjustment.

I had wanted to use the bottom holes for my sump because I am using 2 tubs side-by-side, one for inflow, and one for outflow, but clearly I will need a larger pipe. I think I will do two 1-1/2" down low and seal the original ones.

Thanks for the pics!

NP, if you need anything else just let me know :)

tinygiants
01/02/2006, 12:09 AM
I changed out my bulkhead on my rubbermaid with a 1 1/4 schedule 80. I just had to shave a little off the sides to get it to fit in the recess. The outer threads are left hand threads aren't they? On most of my bulkehads, they are any way. I just can not remember what they were on my rubbermaid.

Dale

jnarowe
01/02/2006, 12:19 AM
I am going to squeeze in a 1-1/2 down low with an elbow for drainage to the display and one up high as a back up.

houston220
01/02/2006, 08:44 PM
Awesome.

houston220
01/02/2006, 08:46 PM
Awesome plan

jnarowe
01/02/2006, 08:49 PM
Thanks! Squeezed the 1-1/2" in and it fit very well I am very happy about that. Also installed an emergency 1" near the top of the refugium. Too tired for pics tonight, but I will try to get some up in a day or so.

jnarowe
01/11/2006, 11:26 PM
OK. Sorry for the delay but I get fatigue in the evenings and can't quite get around to posting.

First set of photos is building the overflow. It's not pretty but it will work. I have learned a lot about working with acrylic so when I upgrade to a 5000g the product will be much better!

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp6.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp3.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp5.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp4.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp2.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp1.jpg

jnarowe
01/11/2006, 11:28 PM
And a couple of other pics:

Refurbished Pump:

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp7.jpg

Sink:

http://mail.wavecable.com/Session/24442-DVq1cEeGEKdbDm49UG7D/WebFile/constp8.jpg

melev
01/12/2006, 02:27 AM
I see no images. :(

BigEasy
01/12/2006, 07:54 AM
5000g :eek:

I hope it will be in a greenhouse!!

I can't see the pics either. Need to refresh a link.

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 08:25 AM
oustanding! Well, they were there last night! I'll try to fix it.--J

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 08:36 AM
Can't figure it out. It has something to do with the free web space on wavecable and how it is uploaded. I think the pics are pointing to an upload "session" rather than the actual web page, but I can't bring the actual pages up either except through the page menu in the upload web. I'll try later.:mad:

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 08:41 AM
http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp1.jpg

gkarshens
01/12/2006, 08:43 AM
I see that one.

sixxer
01/12/2006, 09:27 AM
I can see that photo as well.

5000g????? Why not set your sight high??? Maybe 15000 to 20000 gallons!!!!:D

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 09:42 AM
OK. Got a few minutes so I'll try again. BTW, sixxer, I am so glad my wife doesn't read this forum! She saw over my should I think ozreef's set-up with the tank in the garage, and came down in the evening and suggested that we move the tank to the garage. I don't know if she was pulling my leg or what, but I flatly said, "That ain't happening". I muttered to myself something about being married to a nut, and went back to work on my 8' lng overflow.

http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp6.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp3.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp4.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp5.jpg

http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp2.jpg

Refurbished pump:
http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp7.jpg

Sink:
http://mail.wavecable.com/~jrowe/constp8.jpg

sixxer
01/12/2006, 09:56 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6482199#post6482199 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
[B]OK. Got a few minutes so I'll try again. BTW, sixxer, I am so glad my wife doesn't read this forum! ]

Me too!!! Little does the wife know that this 600 display is actually just part of my large/larger upgrade and the 600 is going to be a sump for the next room addition tank!!!!:D

melev
01/12/2006, 12:10 PM
When does this hobby become a sickness? Read the post above mine.

BigEasy
01/12/2006, 01:11 PM
That's funny and sad at the same time. :D

rjwilson37
01/12/2006, 01:15 PM
It only becomes a sickness if you think of it as a sickness and are being treated for it as a sickness, other than that I don't think it is a sickness. But then again, if you don't think it is a sickness and you get carried away with this sickness then it can become a sickness unless the people around you don't think it is a sickness.:confused: What am I saying?

Ohhh crap.... I am coming up with excuses and trying to avoid it being a sickness, what do you think that means. I think 3 tank switches to bigger tanks each time in a 3 year period speaks for itself, I don't have the sickness, I am just trying to stay active & not bored which is better than doing drugs and may even cost less than drugs.:rolleyes: No to sure on that one.

BlueCorn
01/12/2006, 03:52 PM
test

BlueCorn
01/12/2006, 03:55 PM
Move along - nothing to see here.

Toddrtrex
01/12/2006, 04:08 PM
Sure your replies show up ;)

melev
01/12/2006, 04:36 PM
I see yours now Todd, as well as Doug 2.0.1

I got 5 notifications.

EDIT: And now I can post to this thread again.

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 05:12 PM
Yeah that was weird. I was getting multiple notifications on Marc's post, but couldn't get into it myself. Big brother at work??? So here is my belated post!

uh, guys...17,000+ and 6,000+ posts on just one reef forum really does catagorize you as having a sickness of some sort. But for those who believe that alcoholism is a sickness, I disagree about that too. Reefing is a hobby, that like all other hobbies, can breed technoweenies faster than a chicken farm. I remember detailed discussions about shaving grams when I was a mountain biker...is that really an illness, or perhaps a special code used by men to retain a thumbnail's worth of their former head-of-the-herd self?

sixxer
01/12/2006, 05:13 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6483318#post6483318 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
When does this hobby become a sickness? Read the post above mine.

:lol: :lol:

I don't think there is a cure for it either!!!!

melev
01/12/2006, 05:17 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6485594#post6485594 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
uh, guys...17,000+ and 6,000+ posts on just one reef forum really does catagorize you as having a sickness of some sort.


What forum are you talking about with the 6000? I just checked another forum that that guy is on, and he has 13,511 posts over there too. What about rec.aquaria.marine.reefs? Or email over the years?

http://melevsreef.com/g/cantlook.gif

jnarowe
01/12/2006, 05:23 PM
I can't even get involved with aquaria newsgroups. It's just too much info. for me to digest. I just made my mock up of the return manifold and set it approximately in place. I figure if I look at it few hundred times, I may actually install it in the correct place the first time.:D

melev
01/12/2006, 05:24 PM
Yes, that should work out eventually. Plus each time you explain it to us, you increase your post count. I bet you'll hit 1000 posts one day. :D