Go Big OR Go Home! Construction of a 1000 gallon System!!

[bstone]

Well, I always went by the philosophy of "Go Big OR Go Home"!

I have decided to do just that with my new tank. The whole system will be approximately 1000 gallons. With a main display tank at L-120, W-48, H-30. I will have 3 sumps, one for equipment, one for coral propagation, and one refugium. The tank has been planned and designed for the last year with help from some good, and experienced friends in the business. The tank will be an in-wall, with a very "large" fish room. The tank is going in my family room wall that is two stories tall. So, it will look awesome with the design I have planned.

I decided to get my tank from Derek at Miracles Aquariums, and what a pleasure it has been so far dealing with them. I have complete confidence in the quality tank I will be getting from them. The tank is already under construction, and Derek has sent me some pictures. It should be ready in a few weeks.

I have already started construction on the new fish room and tank stand. I torn down all the drywall and ran my own electrical. So, I have added all the 120 and 240 volt outlets that I could possible need. I have also designed a stand that will hold the 4 tons of weight. The stand was designed and engineered to withstand the weight, and then some!! And, yes I am on a slab. I plan on going with the same lay-out of stand/plywood/self-leveling cement/and stro-foam. I have done this in the past with my current tank with great success. I have enclosed a few pictures for viewing.


http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00919.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00923.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00924.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_polish2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_back_external_2.jpg

[JumboShrimp]

looking good.... gotta flollow this one!

[Bigred]

Looking good. Miracle Aquariums does good work. Mine is 76"Lx48"Dx25"T and came out great. Hope you have lots of help to lift that bad boy. I used 10 people on mine.

[tabndust]

taggin along

[Lordhelmet]

i'll be watching this one.

[Kent E]

That stand is rediculously overbuilt and completely awesome at the same time:thumbsup: :spin1:

[massman]

Personally I think a steel stand (pvc coated) with 6 legs would've have been the way to go.
No warping issues in time, and would have allowed you to use the space underneath.
Having said that, the stand looks pretty good though!

If that bottom pic is of your external overflows, than you certainly do live by your philosophy!
Might be worthwhile attaching a platform around the back and sides of your tank that you can walk on, and reach into the tank from. 18"wide is all you need, and saves having to move a ladder each time.

Is that 1" glass?

[dgasmd]

Originally posted by bstone
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00923.JPG

Dude, that stand can duble as a cargo plane landing pad!! I am sure it has more structural integrity than the house you are going to ahve the tank in :lol: :lol: :lol: Good work!

[sadsak]

wow ..........that stand is heavy duty

[shaw]

can't wait to see how this develops

[bstone]

massman
I thought about having a metal stand built. But, with the uneven cement and there is a header on the front legs that is about 1" higher then the rest of the cement. The metal stand would of been uneven and it would of had to been wedged to make level. Also, space really isn't a concern, plus I really don't like stuff under the tank; hard to get too. I wanted something to distribute the weight over a large area. Derek recommended a 4x4 every 2 feet, I also believe this to be a good way to distribute the weight over a large area.
I am planning on making a walkway on all 3 sides for easy access to the tank. The lights will be retractable and will be on a rail so that I can push them back to work on the tank.

Bigred How hard was it to lift the tank. Derek is delivering mine, so I can use his glass suction cups. I plan on 7 guys, 2 on each side and 3 in the back.

[BigReef]

You are going to need some SERIOUS flow for that bad boy! What are your plans?

Can't wait to see it in person!

Tim

[nbd13]

what type of tank are you going for? SPS, reef, FOWLR?

Nick

[dgasmd]

Originally posted by bstone
Derek is delivering mine, so I can use his glass suction cups. I plan on 7 guys, 2 on each side and 3 in the back.

I have a tank of the same dimensions you have and it is 3/4" all around. I can only tell you for sure that 7 guys is not going to be enough. It is not so much the dead weight of the tank, but the bulk of the size. I would personally get 9-10 people. I tried with 8 for mine. These were construction workers and movers and they tried lifting it for a few seconds. Another simpler and better route was chosen.

[bstone]

BigReef

I did close loops on my current tank and I see some disadvantages with them compared to Tunze Streams. Therefore, I am going with no closed loops and about 6 - 8 tunze streams. I will also have 5 1" sea swirls for sump return. I feel that this will give me more then enough flow.

nbd13

It will be a reef tank with mainly SPS, a lot of fish. I already have most of my fish in my current tank. I plan on adding a few more tangs, wrasses, and some other anthias.

dgasmd

That is what I was afraid of! I guess I will need more people. All the muscle that will be needed is to lift it about 1 - 2 feet up and then over to the stand. So, minimal lifting is the key here. I will be putting out an request for any "big" reefers in my area to come and give a hand. Ofcourse free beer and pizza!!

[Large Polyp Dave]

good idea on the tunze for flow.

CL's are over-rated on really large tank. the amount of electricity to run all the pumps on a CL is scary

and then bulkhead riddle bottom panels are even more scary =)

how many viewable sides will that tank have?
what kind of lighting do you have in mind so far?

[bstone]

Large Polyp Dave

Thanks for the comments. I agree with the Tunze Streams over CL.

Since the tank is in-wall it will only be viewable from the front. The sides and back panel will be in black.

The lighting will be: 5 luminarc III reflectors with XM 10k 400 watt bulbs, and then Actinic lights along the front and back.

[tomasz]

Bstone how are you going to get the sides and back in black? Also I just moved my tank which is 96*42*30T and I had 10 people to move it. It was no problem what so ever I think I would be fine with 8 people. Good luck with this.

[bstone]

tomasz

The builder is somehow making the sides and back panel in black. I don't know how they do that with glass!

[massman]

Fair enough about the stand, although every single one of my metal stands have always been built with adjustable feet. (I would put them on the wooden ones too!)

There is a solution that is available that is mixed in with paint allowing it to stick to glass beautifully.
It's pretty popular here not for tanks but for feature walls, kitchen splashbacks, countertops etc etc.

[dgasmd]

Originally posted by bstone
tomasz

The builder is somehow making the sides and back panel in black. I don't know how they do that with glass!

A couple of guesses on this.

1. They will just paint it over with black paint

2. They wll use a black thick film over the glass itself.

I have seen it done both ways and honestly looking from the inside of the tank you can tell which is which.

[sixxer]

Originally posted by massman
Fair enough about the stand, although every single one of my metal stands have always been built with adjustable feet. (I would put them on the wooden ones too!)

There is a solution that is available that is mixed in with paint allowing it to stick to glass beautifully.
It's pretty popular here not for tanks but for feature walls, kitchen splashbacks, countertops etc etc.

massman:

I would be curious to see how you would go about installing adjustable feet on a wood stand. I have thought about doing this, however I feel with the wood stand that their is a chance the feet could eventually "Sink" into the wood causing the tank to become unlevel.

Any suggestions? Especially on something this big.

[massman]

I have seen this done with the feet bolted onto metal end caps on the base of the legs.
The end caps were fitted by stirrups that ran up about 4" on all 4 sides of the legs with 3 screws on each of the stirrups.

Can you follow my crappy description?

[sixxer]

Originally posted by massman
I have seen this done with the feet bolted onto metal end caps on the base of the legs.
The end caps were fitted by stirrups that ran up about 4" on all 4 sides of the legs with 3 screws on each of the stirrups.

Can you follow my crappy description?

Yes, thanks for the info. (Sorry to hi-jack the thread temporarily)

Keep the pics. coming

bstone:

Do you plan on going BB, DSB, or Shallow sand-bed?

Also curious where the sump will sit in relation to the main display tank?

Thanks

[bstone]

sixxer

I plan on a shallow sand bed, and then one of my sumps will have a deep sand bed. The sumps will be on the other side of the room. I will post some pictures that shows the rest of the room in a few days. The chiller will be outside, therefore I will have to drill holes in the brick for the tubing.

[law086]

bstone - can you comment on your plans to address humidity?

Great project - I can't wait to see more progress.

Ron

[bstone]

law086

Good question! I plan on using a dehumidifier that I had at my old house. The drain will be plumbed into the drain from my utility sink that I am putting in the corner of my fish room. The tank will also be connected to the drain for easy water changes.

[nbd13]

i am not sure a dehumidifer will work in your case.

thats ALOT of h2O, you should really look into other means of dealing with it.

read this thread, this is only forf about 350 gallons total water volume, now think of your tank....

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=640757

you should really look into this stuff, i would hate to see your home ruined like Mr. 4000.

deal with it now while you can. it will save you ALOT of money later.

plus the dehumidifer will also make your tanks evaporate at a fast pace.

Nick

[Kreeger1]

Treated lumber is a no no for stands, good luck with warping issues, I'd personally start over if I was you and not use treated lumber ACQ or not.
Erik

[bstone]

eriksmacks

Well, I have a tank with a stand built out of treated wood with no problems. It is a 385 gallon tank with 6 legs and no warping.

nbd13

I will look into it, thanks!!

[Kreeger1]

Yeah, but the risks out number the possible if any benifits from using it.
Run a search about treated lumber and cracked tanks. I know I've heard and seen one tank crack from twisted wood. But if you've got no worries and its your tank go for it, it was nicely constructed btw
Have fun
ERik

[bstone]

eriksmacks

Erik, don't get me wrong, I appreciate your comments/concerns. With the design of the stand, a 4x4 every 2 feet between two 2x6's connected by a carriage bolt, I am assuming some warping but not to the point of putting the stand off "plumb". I am also putting 1/2" self leveling cement on top of the plywood, and then a 1/2" Styrofoam.

[bstone]

nbd13

My fish room is in my garage. I have 3 car garage, 2 wide and the left side was 2 deep. So, I just turned that into my fish room. As it stands right now I have a window AC unit dedicated tot he fish room that vents into the garage, this is where my main house HVAC unit is located. I am also using a dehumidifier in the fish room. I could add a vent that would blow air in the fish room directly out side controlled by a humidity meter? What are your thoughts? Thanks..

[BrianPlankis]

bstone,

You might want to look into the new Icecap pump that is going to be coming out early next year:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=672444

Since you are going with 5-6 Tunze streams that is a decent amount of heat and wires in the tank. The new vortex looks like a cool option for big tank users who currently use streams.

If you aren't planning on having the tank running by early next year, it might be an option. Of course it looks like they use about the same electricity as the Tunze 6100, so same flow, but less heat in the water = less chiller demand = less electricity.

Brian

[Kreeger1]

Sounds like you took all the extra precatutions then. Nice work!
Erik

[Bigred]

bstone: Here a link to the move and left of my tank. Go about 3/4 of the way down the page. If it was me the more the merrier. All it take is one guy to do a booboo and down she goes. Get as many as you can fit around it.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=570448&perpage=25&pagenumber=3

[nbd13]

Hey i am not an expert on this subject, just know you need to take precautions now or you will ruin your home. thats alot of water you have there, haha.

make a post about how to deal with humidity and evaporation in this forum, someone can help you.

Nick

[NAGA]

Look forward to seeing more. I have a tank of the same dimensions. I am using 6 Streams and agree with you on that vs. the CL.

What skimmer are you using?

[bstone]

I plan on a very large external Euro-Reef for a skimmer.

[jarhed]

Oh man, this is gonna be SWEET!!! Hope you got a good camera!!! :D

[CoralNutz]

I agree on the humidity issue. You will need MUCH more then a humidifier. I would look into air exchangers.

Sounds like it's going to be a heck of a tank though. Make sure to keep us updated with LOTS of pics. :D

[bstone]

I got some new pictures for you guys, its looking good so far!! Again, its been great dealing with Derek from Miracles Aquariums!!

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_top_b_1.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_top_f_1.jpg

[shaw]

man, that this is awesome. great overflows

[jarhed]

I am SO looking forward to this monster!!! :D

[tomasz]

bstone how did they atach the black acrylic to the glass insde the tank?

[jsteidl]

The tank I got from miracles had the back piece of acrylic attached to the glass with I think some sort of silicone. May also have been some sort of heavy duty epoxy of some kind. Not sure, but it looks great. Derek and his guys at Miracles do excellent work.

[tomasz]

jsteidlcould you take a close up picture of that. Thanks Tom.

[dmccrary]

that is huge

[jsteidl]

Not sure what you can see out of this but it is double siliconed in. On back of it and along the side as you can see in this shot.

http://www.mountain-air.com/tank/backview.jpg

Here is a full shot as of today. Full of frags ready to grow!

http://www.mountain-air.com/tank/tank5.JPG

[Jeremy B.]

Great looking tank! I love to see systems that have hoods that are a little shorter than the main tank, they look so much better aesthetically IMO. Very nice!

[surg_xero]

thanks for the humidity tip

[Stoneyscoral]

Along for the ride.

[Chaotic Reefer4u]

very nice indeed

[skippyreef]

Bstone,

First off I must say phenonemenal planning and attention to detail seem to be your area!

The size of this show piece is extreme!! I also love the idea of external overflow this makes the tank all the nicer.

And good job on the stand. We built mine much in the same way and used short runs of treated 2x6's with decking joints and stainless srcrews and bolts covered it all with a mildew resistant paint :D

With the amount of water you have humidity is certainly something to look into and I have been following along in hte other thread as well. I myself did put in a larger vent fan, ran cold air returns in the basement because that it what mitigates humidity in the summer time from your house anyway, and added supply registers to the basement to even out teh temp swings. In the spring a large window goes in as well.

I think when yu get this up it will reflect all your hard work and planning:D

[bstone]

I have some updated pictures. I just got done putting on the self leveling cement layer. I added about 3/4" of cement to the stand. Then I will put 1/2" Styrofoam on top of the cement, and then the tank will go on top of that.


http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00925.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00926.JPG

skippyreef

Thank you for your kind comments! I have put a lot of thought into this project. I spent a lot of time on that other thread discussing what I need to do about temp/humidity control in the fish room. I have a very good idea of what to do now! Thanks to everyone who brought the humidity issue to my attention!!


Here are some fish that are currently in my 265 that will have a new home very soon. One guy (The Sohal) has gotten a little big for the 265. I hope he will like his new 680 gallon home I got him!

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00927.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00930.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00931.JPG

[massman]

Nice fat healthy looking fish you got there.
Good work.

[jnarowe]

I am hopping on...the self leveling cement really sounds like a good idea. My stand is very similar to yours and I am concerned about making it level.

What I really want to hear about is the Tunze vs. CL issue. One of the Sequence pumps I was going to use went TU and I need to decide what to replace it with. It appears that Tunzes use considerably less electricity and add heat. What I can't find is an amp number on them.

Benefits of Tuzes seem to be infinite placement opportunities (which may be the single most important item), and lower energy consumption. They also require no plumbing. The problem is that they cost quite a bit more than the Hammerheads.

Benefits of Hammerhead are that it is industrial strength continuous duty, high power, and easily maintained.

What else should I be looking at? Any more discussion on this topic?

My display tank is 8' x 5' x 35".--J

[jnarowe]

BTW, about humidity...I am doubling the wall thickness for sound control and painting them with marine bilge paint (used on yachts). I have 2 - 6" fans on the tank and 1 - 6" fan to control the room air. As temp. goes up, so does humidity, so if you keep the room slightly below the tank temp. it will decrease humidity and lower evaporation. I will set the room fan to come on at about 73F and the inlet will be a 12 x 12 under my deck. I may need to rig some kind of inbound filter to catch moisture.--J

[Splach]

Have you figured out how to pump the tanks you have on the far side of the room? I am trying to figure out how to plumb a fishroom which is 30' away and running into some trouble trying to rule out floods on one side or the other.

(ref: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=698589)

If you have this figured out could you explain how you are doing it?

Thanks

[skippyreef]

Bstone,

I like to see a tank set up where the person setting it up really takes some time and thinks about it.

It took me a while to get as far as I am on my set up (which is like 1/3 eth volume your talking here LOL) but attention to minor things can be major pain savers.

I ran the R/O line into my fishroom because I lacked a drain and did not want to lug around 350 gallons of water to fill it then another 30 a week on water changes. I will have to pump it to the drain which is 20 feet away but thats better than constantly moving water in and out of the room for top off and water changes. Plus all teh make up water is in the fish utility room!!

what are you doing in terms of supply water in your set up?

Are you buiding a seperate electrical control panel for the tank?

[skippyreef]

Bstone

I also agree with your use of a Tunze system over a Closed Loop. I think the Tunzes are a more reliable product for one in terms of consequences if the fail and ease of replacement.

In a closed loop every opening (bulkhead) increases teh potential and chances for leaks and tank failure. I too feel that closed loops are way over rated now esp with the availability of high flow streams and waveboxes.

It is possible to conceal teh Tunze pump and in any event if your tank rocks people really do not notice the stream pumps anyway LOL

[asnatlas]

Originally posted by skippyreef
Bstone

I also agree with your use of a Tunze system over a Closed Loop. I think the Tunzes are a more reliable product for one in terms of consequences if the fail and ease of replacement.

In a closed loop every opening (bulkhead) increases teh potential and chances for leaks and tank failure. I too feel that closed loops are way over rated now esp with the availability of high flow streams and waveboxes.

It is possible to conceal teh Tunze pump and in any event if your tank rocks people really do not notice the stream pumps anyway LOL

I also agree... I don't much like CLs and that is why I went with 6 Tunze's (2x 6200s and 4x 6100s) on my 600gal... I have mine hidden on both sides of my overflow (thanks mantis), I should have pics posted on my thread (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=654492) in a few wks when I get the tank...

Shawn

[RRodrigues]

Nice and big!

Ricardo

[skippyreef]

I went with (3) 6080's, (2) 6100's, and a wave box on my 270 gallon. I also am using an Iwaki 100RLT for the return pump fed back into the tank by (4) penductors.

the magnets make attaching the Tunze's nice now. it is a much better design than the standard hardware that comes with them.

[asnatlas]

Originally posted by skippyreef
The magnets make attaching the Tunze's nice now. it is a much better design than the standard hardware that comes with them.

I agree 110%... The standard hardware is not very good even on a "normal" tank LOL... I have never used them and never will...

Shawn

[jnarowe]

for a display as large as mine at 1000g, that's a lot of Tunzes and a lot of bucks. and they ain't selling those on Ebay!--J

[skippyreef]

Thats true that they are expensive :D

Then again that 1000g display probably was too :D

[jnarowe]

I got the display for a song. A loud song, but still a song...

[skippyreef]

as long as it wasnt a sad song its ok :D

[shaw]

the new icecap pumps may be an alternative to the tunze, check them out

[jnarowe]

where?

[BigEasy]

http://www.ecotechmarine.com/home.htm

Here is the link and there is a thread on RC. They won't be out for a couple of months though.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=672444&perpage=&pagenumber=1

[bstone]

Originally posted by massman
Nice fat healthy looking fish you got there.
Good work.

Thanks!!:rollface:

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
I am hopping on...the self leveling cement really sounds like a good idea. My stand is very similar to yours and I am concerned about making it level.

What I really want to hear about is the Tunze vs. CL issue. One of the Sequence pumps I was going to use went TU and I need to decide what to replace it with. It appears that Tunzes use considerably less electricity and add heat. What I can't find is an amp number on them.

Benefits of Tuzes seem to be infinite placement opportunities (which may be the single most important item), and lower energy consumption. They also require no plumbing. The problem is that they cost quite a bit more than the Hammerheads.

Benefits of Hammerhead are that it is industrial strength continuous duty, high power, and easily maintained.

What else should I be looking at? Any more discussion on this topic?

My display tank is 8' x 5' x 35".--J

I have had closed loop on my current tank for some time now, and I much definitly prefer Tunze over closed loops. Less energy, more water movement over a larger area. Closed loops only blow a stream of water straight out from the bulkhead hole, it doesn't fan out like a Tunze. You will see my fish swim and then get blown from the tight stream of water fromo the CL. Tunze is different, they spread a large amount of flow over a greater diameter, which results in a more even flow through the whole tank, or larger area. PLus closed loops can leak, pump can fail, and what a pain on the A$$ that is!!:mad2:

Turbelle stream 6200
Output: 20000 l/h; 5,283 gal/h
Speed control: Yes
Electronically controllable by all TUNZE motor controls
Pump wattage: 62 W
Cable length: 5 m; 196"

Turbelle stream 6100
Output: 12000 l/h; 3175 gal/h
Speed control: Yes
Electronically controllable by all TUNZE motor controls
Pump wattage: 45 W
Cable length: 5 m; 196"
Dimensions: 98 x 118 mm; 3.9 x 4.6"
Outlet diam.: 50 / 47 mm; 2" / 1.8"

[bstone]

Originally posted by Splach
Have you figured out how to pump the tanks you have on the far side of the room? I am trying to figure out how to plumb a fishroom which is 30' away and running into some trouble trying to rule out floods on one side or the other.

(ref: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=698589)

If you have this figured out could you explain how you are doing it?

Thanks

I will have two systems running at the same time until I get the new one cycled inn. The current tank has a sump and a flex PVC that runs out to my garage where the chiller sits. I will just turn off pump, valve off the line and connect a longer flex PVC to the union and put it in my new tank and turn on the pump. It wont get all the water put most of it. I also have a closed loop to get the rest of the water out there too. But a siphon also works too!

[bstone]

Originally posted by skippyreef
Bstone,

I like to see a tank set up where the person setting it up really takes some time and thinks about it.

It took me a while to get as far as I am on my set up (which is like 1/3 eth volume your talking here LOL) but attention to minor things can be major pain savers.

I ran the R/O line into my fishroom because I lacked a drain and did not want to lug around 350 gallons of water to fill it then another 30 a week on water changes. I will have to pump it to the drain which is 20 feet away but thats better than constantly moving water in and out of the room for top off and water changes. Plus all teh make up water is in the fish utility room!!

what are you doing in terms of supply water in your set up?

Are you buiding a seperate electrical control panel for the tank?

I will have 2 tanks for water. One will be a top off tank (55 gallons) that will be filled with RO/DI based on a float valve to control the level in the plastic tank. I have a electronic float valve in my sump that will turn a water pump on or off based off the water level in my sump. This pump will be in my plastic RO water tank. The second plastic tank (200 gallons) will be for water changes. Also connected to the RO/DI and will have an external pump used to mix the salt.

I have my main electric panel right in that room, so it was easy to tap into it!:)

[bstone]

Originally posted by asnatlas
I also agree... I don't much like CLs and that is why I went with 6 Tunze's (2x 6200s and 4x 6100s) on my 600gal... I have mine hidden on both sides of my overflow (thanks mantis), I should have pics posted on my thread (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=654492) in a few wks when I get the tank...

Shawn

Yep, I have followed your thread!:rollface: Very Cool idea.

[cwegescheide]

Awww man!!!!! And I just moved from Indy... I'd love to see this thing. I'd definatley taggin along for this one. Well atleast my stand looks prettier than yours LOL Just kiddin. Cant wait to see it. Keep us posted. I come back to Indy to see the family every once in a while.. Gotta have an Inmas meeting at your place!!!

Have fun,
Chris

[asnatlas]

Originally posted by bstone
Yep, I have followed your thread!:rollface: Very Cool idea.

Thank you, like I said I had some help from a local club member (mantis)... I was trying to think of a way to hide them and had kinda scratched the idea, then when I found out about his tank I went over and talked to him and he provided some good info :) I am hoping to have some pics soon, and with in the next few weeks it will be in delivered :)

Shawn

[smoknreefrs]

this thread looks like a winner, will be tagging along

[Acillaton]

Wow! Thats all I can say. It is like my dream. About same size of the tank I planing to own ...but it will take me about two more years :-( Good Luck with yours.
BTW. How much cost you the tank? Just wondering...

[bstone]

Well, I am 95% done with the electrical, I just need to make the final connections in the breaker panel. Which I will do once the tank is ready. I'm almost done with the tank stand, just need to add the Styrofoam. I also added a fan in the fish room to vent air to the outside. I must say, it is a very quiet fan. And it really sucks, air that is! Sorry, bad humor. I will have a humidity controller on it to help reduce the risk of moisture in the air. I will also have a de-humidifier as a back up incase the vent won't cut it on those unexpected days! I am going to have return and supply ducts ran to my fish room. This will also help with temperature and humidity control. I plan on doing that this week before the tank comes. A window A/C unit has been added that will vent to my garage. This will on turn on if my house HVAC can't cool the room enough on those hot days. The window A/C is also connected to a control that will only turn on in the event that the house HVAC unit can't keep up.

Next I plan on putting up the insulation and drywall. I hate putting up dry wall, especially with all the outlets I have!!

The tank is scheduled to be delivered this Saturday the 19th. I have a forklift scheduled to be dropped off that day, but it will be manpower that will be needed to lift the tank onto the stand. It won't be a dead lift, the tank will be about the same height as the stand, it will just need to be lifted up a few inches and then over on the stand! Sounds simple, lets hope so. The builder is having 8 suction cups sent with the tank, so that will help! So, if anyone lives near me and would like to help out on Saturday, please let me know! :cool:

Here are some updated pictures::rollface:

Fish Room
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00944.JPG

Vent in Ceiling
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00941.JPG


120volt and 240 volt lines for lighting
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00940.JPG

Other electrical
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00942.JPG

[Kreeger1]

Holy outlets batman
code is 8 plugs on one breaker I believe but whose counting anyways :)

[bstone]

I have two 120volt 20amp lines and two 240volt 30amp lines. The load I will have on those lines is nowhere near the amount I have them set up for. Therefore, I have room for error!

[Kreeger1]

Speaking of error the only error left will be when your cutting out all those out lets in the drywall. quick tip so you don't miss one and cover it up, mark on the floor with a magic marker the placement of the plug, along what side of stud and how many ect. Its saved my electricians before after covreing one up and mudding the drywall, they just took there measurement from the floor and cut it in.
Erik
What are you running that uses 240 volt ?

[bstone]

Thanks for the tip on the drywall!!

All my lights are on 240volt ballasts, and my main 2 pumps are 240volt, along with my 1hp chiller.

[pwhitby]

And I thought I had a lot of outlets....

Nice looking set up.
I like the design of your stand. I am in the process of building one for my 600g. Hopefull I will get it done over thanksgiving.

When do you expect to get the tank on the stand?
Paul.

[Kreeger1]

Nice

[bstone]

Originally posted by pwhitby
And I thought I had a lot of outlets....

Nice looking set up.
I like the design of your stand. I am in the process of building one for my 600g. Hopefull I will get it done over thanksgiving.

When do you expect to get the tank on the stand?
Paul.

Thanks for the comments on the stand, I spent a lot of time designing it. Good luck with yours!!

The tank is being delivered this saturday, I will have a some friends over to lift the tank onto the stand the same day!

[pwhitby]

Best of Luck.......I know its going to be heavy.

Do you have any glass clamps. Our club has some and they are worth their weight in gold.

Paul.

[bstone]

The builder is shipping 8 suction cups with the tank for me to use. So, that should help a lot!:D

[jnarowe]

Wow...that's a lot of plugs! You and I are at about the same pace right now. I have one wall and the ceiling buttoned up, and 3 to go. You really went crazy with the oulets.

We are doing most stuff the same except for a couple. I have the "normal" amount plus a couple of extra quads on the regular house current, and I am doing all the tank specific oulets surface mount. The reason for that is to give me flexibility, as well as moisture resistant boxes. My sstem will run on an AC III so that brings most critical equipment to central power blocks. I have 100A surface mount and 30A in-wall.

I also decided to have all venting conduit inside the room rather than in the ceiling to keep noise transfer down.

A word of caution regarding sound. If you are trying to keep sound to a minimum I would spray foam all the electrical boxes. They have slots in the back that allow sound to pass through and since you have so many that's is something I would check into. I have foamed every electrical box in the Tank room walls. I have also installed a secondary layer of offset studs to crews the inside sheet rock to. This eliminates the direct transfer of vibration and sound from the inner layer of rock, through the studs, and into the outer layer of rock.

I have to be fairly particular about sound because my tank room is in the center of the house.--J

[bstone]

jnarowe

My fish room is on the corner of my house, so only one wall will be of concern, and that wall has only 3 outlets on it. The sound should be at a minimum, but I will foam up the outlets - Good idea - .

I also went with a ACIII Pro, but I decided to do the X10. I put in a booster signal repeater to boost the signal to all the outlets in my fish room. I will have a lot of receivers on almost all my outlets to control all the lights, pumps, ozone, Ca reactro, you name it. I really like the X10, that is what I have on my current tank. You just have to make sure that you install the right signal bridges, repeaters, and boosters.

I think I saw your thread. Do you have the link!

[jnarowe]

yeah, I don't know about the X-10 stuff. I am going with the DC4HDs because my lamps burn 9.5A each.

My link is: Starting 1000g Reef! (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=692395)

I look forward to sharing more ideas. My tank room is the crotch of an "L" shaped room downstairs directly below 3 bedrooms and a family room so sound is a serious issue.--J

[asnatlas]

Very nice... I like the layout... more pics :)

Shawn

[jnarowe]

nothin' but a load of pic groupies on this forum! You know, those of us trying to build systems don't have time to take photos...maybe I should hire a photographer??? :D

[Kent E]

I think he needs MORE outlets!

[pwhitby]

Oh Oh....outlet envy........LOL

[smoknreefrs]

Originally posted by Kent E
I think he needs MORE outlets! i think he should of used BX instead of romex, and metal boxes instead of plastic...

By the way, with so many volts being used from the lighting and motors i would use an oversized neutral in the panel, especially if there are computers in the house....

[Jeremy B.]

I am no electrician by any means, and I only ask this because I flat just do not know, but.....

Why would you use metal boxes in an area with extremely high humidity over plastic boxes?

[jnarowe]

god question! I am using over-sized flex romex in water-proof flex conduit with weatherproof surface mount plastic boxes. All boxes that are in-wall will have gaskets and safety inserts as well.

[bstone]

The tank is boxed up and ready for shipping. The truck will pick up on Wednesday, and deliver on Saturday (hopefully). Here are some pictures of the tank getting boxed up!


http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_end1.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/w_120_end2.JPG

[sixxer]

DROOOOOOOOOOOOOL!!!!!:D

[jnarowe]

total wet dream...words cannot express how spectacular that tank is. I can't wait for full shots!

[jnarowe]

I see they have the ol' special "10 Foot" pallets! LOL...what does the tank weigh??

[bstone]

The builder tells me about 1200 lbs. !

[jnarowe]

Wow...definitely fork-lift time. I am not sure how much my tank weighs, but I guess around 700lbs. It's acrylic of course. Your tank looks really sweet. Did you get the Starfire front panel? (you probably already mentioned that?)

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
Wow...definitely fork-lift time. I am not sure how much my tank weighs, but I guess around 700lbs. It's acrylic of course. Your tank looks really sweet. Did you get the Starfire front panel? (you probably already mentioned that?)

Ofcourse! low-iron AKA Starfire..:D

[blide]

Holy Crap! Where's the diving board? :eek:

[cutsupremetrib]

wow cool tank makes my poor lil 65 mad at you lol noticed you are in camel indiana IM located in Lafayette hehe when u get or if u get rid of your other tank let me know I'll pay what you want and pick it up myself!!!

[bstone]

Originally posted by cutsupremetrib
wow cool tank makes my poor lil 65 mad at you lol noticed you are in camel indiana IM located in Lafayette hehe when u get or if u get rid of your other tank let me know I'll pay what you want and pick it up myself!!!

My current tank has a crack on the center brace. I have decided to donate it to Indiana State University. The brace can be fixed, but it just won't look very good. I appreciate your offer. Although, I will be selling a lot of stuff when I take the old tank down; 1/2HP Pacific Coast Chiller, MRC Ca Reactor, LifeReef Skimmer, LARGE Acrylic sump w/ refugium, sea swirls, pumps, bulbs, reflectors, and more! :D

[BrianPlankis]

Wow, I've followed this thread the whole way and never noticed you lived in Carmel, IN. My parents used to live in Carmel and now live in Westfield. So when I visit them for Christmas, can I see the tank? Please have it fully stocked by then!

Thanks,

B.

[cutsupremetrib]

sounds cool good idea with the donation thing I would be interested in your calcium reactor for my tank though possibly the chiller to... keep me informed

[smoknreefrs]

Originally posted by Jeremy B.
I am no electrician by any means, and I only ask this because I flat just do not know, but.....

Why would you use metal boxes in an area with extremely high humidity over plastic boxes? if humidity is going to be a problem it will affect anything that is metal including the copper wiring...so if there is going to be that much humidity in the room maybe then that should addressed. i prefer metal because you get a better ground and gfci work a lot better with a metal box touching the yoke of the outlet....

[smoknreefrs]

Originally posted by jnarowe
god question! I am using over-sized flex romex in water-proof flex conduit with weatherproof surface mount plastic boxes. All boxes that are in-wall will have gaskets and safety inserts as well. okay:eek1: it was only a suggestion for a better job and would be less of a headache in the end...my opinion is my opinion. from experience i have learned that nothing is "weather proof", and that the plastic boxes arent good at all IMO....just thought i would share that with you...but again i would still use aluminium armored cable "bx" with metal boxes....in no way, shape, or form, am i saying that your wiring is not "code", i was just offering my 2 pennies, thats whats RC is all about;) . by the way, the tank is awesome:D

[bstone]

Originally posted by CirolanidHunter
Wow, I've followed this thread the whole way and never noticed you lived in Carmel, IN. My parents used to live in Carmel and now live in Westfield. So when I visit them for Christmas, can I see the tank? Please have it fully stocked by then!

Thanks,

B.

Sure, when we get closer to the Christmas just send me an email!

[jnarowe]

smoknreefrs believe me, the odds are that your way is better. Having spent much of my life in some manner connected to boating, my knee-jerk reaction is that metal around salt water is a problem. I also went surface mount so that if there is a probelm I can correct it more easily.

I have shied(sp?) away from metal as much as possible for noise as well. Plastic doesn't transmit noise nearly as much as metal.

I used all exterior rust resistant screws for framing, wall-board etc. When I opened the walls up, I found a lot of rusty screws, some mold and damaged wall-board. It's the "trickle-down" theory, the up end being the shower upstairs. :D

[cutsupremetrib]

DOWN BOYS LOL

[smoknreefrs]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jnarowe
smoknreefrs believe me, the odds are that your way is better. Having spent much of my life in some manner connected to boating, my knee-jerk reaction is that metal around salt water is a problem. I also went surface mount so that if there is a probelm I can correct it more easily.

I have shied(sp?) away from metal as much as possible for noise as well. Plastic doesn't transmit noise nearly as much as metal.

I used all exterior rust resistant screws for framing, wall-board etc. When I opened the walls up, I found a lot of rusty screws, some mold and damaged wall-board. It's the "trickle-down" theory, the up end being the shower upstairs. :D [/QUOTE}

im picking up, what your dropping.....:D

[Rainbowofcolors]

bstone,

Where did you get your external 200 gallon water tank from? Also what pump are you using to return the water to and from the tank? I just took delivery of a 225 that I am going to build as a centerpiece between 2 rooms with a bar around it. Don't want to fill using water bottles and siphon anything. Makes a massive mess and the new wood floor will apreciate it. Planning on an R/O for fill top/off and external tank (150 gallons) for Salt. Still contemplating the whole plumbing thing.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Michael

[RRodrigues]

Impressive size, men look like dwarfs around the tank!!! Do you know it's glass thickness?

Ricardo

[Louey]

Man, I got tired looking at all of the work you've done and knowing how much you have left to do.

Setting up my 300G in-wall reef was alot more work than I imagined.

I used the Lumenarc III reflectors with the AC kits. I have a centrifugal fan that blows air though each reflector then out of the house through a vent in the wall. I have an window mounted 12000 BTU AC unit that I keep set at 72. Between these two items I am able to keep the tank at 80 or less. Tank evaporates 3 gallons/day. HTH.

Louey

[bstone]

Originally posted by Louey
Man, I got tired looking at all of the work you've done and knowing how much you have left to do.

Setting up my 300G in-wall reef was alot more work than I imagined.

I used the Lumenarc III reflectors with the AC kits. I have a centrifugal fan that blows air though each reflector then out of the house through a vent in the wall. I have an window mounted 12000 BTU AC unit that I keep set at 72. Between these two items I am able to keep the tank at 80 or less. Tank evaporates 3 gallons/day. HTH.

Louey
Its the labor of LOVE!! :cool: Why else would we do it?

I got the Lumenarc III reflectors also, but without the AC kit. I won't have a closed hood, it will all be open. I also have a 1hp chiller to help out with temps. I have the house HVAC connected to the room and I also have a window AC unit to help out!

You have any pictures posted of your tank?

[bstone]

Originally posted by RRodrigues
Impressive size, men look like dwarfs around the tank!!! Do you know it's glass thickness?

Ricardo

The glass is 3/4" think all around. The Eurobrace is 1/2".

[skippyreef]

Bstone

It look great!! Love teh outlets LOL..... I too put in a multitude of outlets for the tank. I am buildo=ing an elctric control panel though on 4 -15 amp circuits (I ran 14-3 wire for this reason). I went with 4 15 amps simply because the fact there is four of them and the DJ switches use 15 amps. I have a reefing friend who is also an elctrican and we calculated the power draw. In reality I might have 6 amps on each circuit.

I am breaking things up also so I dont have all the lighting, pumps, ect on individual circuits in case one should trip.

I think that metal boxes are codea round nay moise environment. That is why all the exterior boxes on my house are metal.... it was code. I think it is as the gentleman said above (assuming that it is a male posting LOL) that you have a better ground that way and it is safer.

[jnarowe]

I am using the Lumenarc III reflectors as well, open hood design, with 3 - 6" fans to exhaust air. The intake is under the deck, and our ambient temp. is low compared to most states. If I find out I need chilling, I have a plan for a heat exchanger hooked into a 3/4" coil in a coffin freezer filled with anti-freeze and water.

Stop laughing, it WILL work!

[Louey]

bstone wrote:

You have any pictures posted of your tank?

Here a thread at RDO that I started awhile back. You have to be a member there to see the pics. Only takes a second to join.

http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=70766&start=0

Louey

[jnarowe]

It is an interesting discussion about metal boxes being a better ground. I can't quite figure that out. The box is nailed into wood so there is no electrical transmission there, and the ground wires are connected to the outlet ground post (and to each other), so how does a metal box give you better ground connection?

Is it that the outlet is attached to the box in 2 spots and the ground is attached to the box? If so, the ground wire connection could still be affected by corrosion and not give a good connection, right? So where is the real benefit of the metal box?:confused:

[Kreeger1]

I haven't seen metal boxes being used in new construction in years. Im not sure that the metal boxes having better grounding has any merrit what so ever.

[jnarowe]

Louey Wow...great thread. Have you seen a doctor about your sump fetish?

I really enjoyed you "mess" photos. I should have taken a pic when I had an inch of stipper/paint/texture on the floor of my tank room. It was a serious mess too.

Oh yeah, and your "Curly Q" exhaust system is fairly bizzare too. I guess that is how it had to be done. I always appreciate threads like your because there was some substantive advice given about common problems!

[Louey]

I'm glad you liked it ;)

Louey

[sixxer]

bstone: How long does the cement have to dry before it is safe to put your tank on it?

[bstone]

Originally posted by sixxer
bstone: How long does the cement have to dry before it is safe to put your tank on it?

sixxer, sorry for the delay; I just responded to your private message. The cement takes about 28 days to get a strength of 4,200 psi compression.

[sixxer]

Thanks bstone! I am off to Lowes!!!!!

[bstone]

Well, the new tank got delivered Sunday morning; EARLY, like 6am. My neighbors loved hearing a semi going down the road, and me running the diesel forklift that early. Its cool though, all my cool neighbors were aware of the delivery time and actually came out to help!!:D The other neighbors, you know the vampires, the ones that never come outside and are anti-social! Can kiss my you know what!! :eek:

Here is a picture of the tank on the cart that I built. The plan is to lift the tank up, with suction cups, and remove the pallet. Then roll the cart into the tank room right next to the stand. Then lift the tank up and over on top of the stand. Sounds easy, but man, I hope we can lift this big thing. I got about 6 LARGE guys coming over on Tuesday to lift the tank up. I figure 2 on each side and one on each back corner, and then maybe two on the middle back to add support. I only have 6 good suction cups and 2 lighter ones.

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00949.JPG

[sixxer]

Awesome!!!!:cool:

That looks massive!!!!!

[pwhitby]

hey Bstone....

The large tanks seem MUCH larger in real life dont they...

Looks good. I like the cart.

Paul.

[Louey]

6 guys won't be enough. My 300G tank supposedly weighed 550 pounds and I had eight guys. All eight guys swore the tank weighed at least 900 pounds.

It probably did only weighed 550, but 550 pounds of dead weight is a PITA.

Good luck. Don't drop it. ;)

Louey

[bstone]

Originally posted by Louey
6 guys won't be enough. My 300G tank supposedly weighed 550 pounds and I had eight guys. All eight guys swore the tank weighed at least 900 pounds.

It probably did only weighed 550, but 550 pounds of dead weight is a PITA.

Good luck. Don't drop it. ;)

Louey

We don't have to dead lift it. All we have to do is bend our knees about 3 inches with our elbows bent against our chest and lift with our legs. That makes it a lot easier then dead lifting it or manuvering it around. I Hope!:cool:

[asnatlas]

Originally posted by bstone
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00949.JPG

/drool

That looks soo awesome :) I can't wait to get my tank... I hope to get it next wk...

Shawn

[polywise]

bstone,

take the time when actually moving it -- small moves with a tank that large prevents fingers form getting crushed.
best of luck !

[ItsDave]

goood luck

[pwhitby]

I see you have the obligatory beers.....

P.

[jnarowe]

looks great. it's probably just distortion, but that stand looks too big to go through any normal doorway. maybe that's not the plan though. I used furniture dollys (3) and suction cups. with the dollys it was easy to move from outside to inside and into the room by removing the front dolly to go over doorways and then switching them. I got the 6 guys to get it onto the stand, and the whole thing is on the dollys now so I can move it around while I polish the tank, build the system and finish the room.

[Jeremy B.]

I dont know if Brian will be able to answer until later tonight, but the stand is actually about 60" in width. From the place the tank/cart is setting right now it will roll to the right if looking at that pic about 20' - 25' up into the back portion of the garage where the tank room is being built. The width of the opening into that back tank room area is about 8' wide, so there shouldn't be any problem at all pushing the tank straight back in there.

[Ron R.]

Definitely watch the back and fingers. That is one humongous tank bro!

[jnarowe]

thank jeremy. yeah fingers and studs don't go well together I have learned!

[jnarowe]

thank jeremy. yeah fingers and studs don't go well together I have learned!

[Jeremy B.]

I am trying to talk Brian into changing the date of which everyone is coming over to move it because as of right now there will only be 6 big guys total. I'm thinking 8 guys at the very minimum. Anyone else want to help me convince him of this? ;)

[jnarowe]

more the better, even if a couple guys don't have a suction cup, they can step in where needed. I had 8 suction suction cups and that worked fine. 4 strong guys can lift my tank with 2 suction cup handles each. getting it lined up properly on top of the foam takes more finesse though.

Believe me, it's not a hard job, but it must be done as efficiently as possible, especially with a glass tank. Acrylic tanks have more give than glass so there is more flexibility. Glass really needs to be handled with respect. I don't understand why the plan is to remove the pallet, then move the whole cradle and tank to the stand area. I could understand it if the cradle was designed to go through standard doors. It sounds like there is an extra step that is unneccessary and increases the risk of the move.

Why not leave it on the pallet and lessen the lift as well as decrease the risk? I am sure there is some reason, but I can't figure it out.

[bstone]

Originally posted by Jeremy B.
I am trying to talk Brian into changing the date of which everyone is coming over to move it because as of right now there will only be 6 big guys total. I'm thinking 8 guys at the very minimum. Anyone else want to help me convince him of this? ;)

Yea, Jeremy is so concerned about it that when I asked him to come on Tuesday evening he siad maybe, which means NO! :lol:

As of right now I will have 9 people, of which 6 of them are BIG - two of them are body builders! So, if we can't get it done then I will have no idea what to do! I will have 8 glass suction cups to use, which will make it much easier then trying to hold a corner. Also, we will only have to lift it about 2". And with the tank already being 38" off the ground the upper body wont be used, the legs will be.

[Ron R.]

the pallet looks wider than the tank. I would hate to be one of the guys on the side vs one or two of the guys at each end. The more guys you have easier it will be to gently set the tank on the foam.

2 of us moved a 10 foot glass tank once with another guy helping out as he could and helping us lift the tank up on a 4 foot stand. My arms "locked" in place. There was no way for me to bend them to lift the tank up. The more guys you have will most likely prevent this from happening.

This sounds like moving a pool table. We put 8 guys on a standard pool table and I nearly busted a gut. It is one of the heaviest things I have ever moved.

I'd ask some of my neighbors or even friends of my neighbors. It looks like you could get 4-5 on each side lengthwise and 1 or 2 at each end. That would be my goal.

Best of luck. Have someone take pics of the moving event. By the looks on the faces I will be able to tell just how heavy that monster tank is.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
more the better, even if a couple guys don't have a suction cup, they can step in where needed. I had 8 suction suction cups and that worked fine. 4 strong guys can lift my tank with 2 suction cup handles each. getting it lined up properly on top of the foam takes more finesse though.

Believe me, it's not a hard job, but it must be done as efficiently as possible, especially with a glass tank. Acrylic tanks have more give than glass so there is more flexibility. Glass really needs to be handled with respect. I don't understand why the plan is to remove the pallet, then move the whole cradle and tank to the stand area. I could understand it if the cradle was designed to go through standard doors. It sounds like there is an extra step that is unneccessary and increases the risk of the move.

Why not leave it on the pallet and lessen the lift as well as decrease the risk? I am sure there is some reason, but I can't figure it out.

Good question about the pallet. The pallet sticks out really far. So, I could cut the pallet as it is on the cart and that would help a lot. I really don't want to cut it length wise because the pallet may not support the tank then and it might crush it. The ends could be cut off because they really aren't't supporting the tank right now anyway. If I do that then I can wheel the cart into position and then have 3 guys on each side and one on each back corner to lift and move over the stand. I will have to think about it some more. My biggest concern is the caster wheels on the cart, each are rated for 300+ lbs, I have a total of 6 underneath. Which means it should hold about 1800+ lbs before getting to a failure point. The tank weights around 1200 lbs. But, I like to worry!!

[jnarowe]

don't worry about the casters. and PLEASE forget about anyone putting their fingers under this tank. Under no circumstances should anyone try to lift a corner. 9 poeple is plenty. you would have a hard time fitting any more.

My tank is 8' x 5' and there really isn't room for more than 2 on the end and 3 on a side.

I would cut the pallet down. If you are concerned about cutting it length wise, use a floor or bottle jack placed on blocks close to the pallet. jack up one end of the pallet slightly, make your cut, and re-install a removed piece under the tank to shorten up the pallet. You may have to do it in 2 pieces, but it will not be too hard and will give you better clearance when you get to the stand.

You could also do a people lift, and slide the pallet out part way so it is flush on the stand side of the cart, then let the tank back down. Then you roll it into position and make your move. I would definitely cut the ends off in any case.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
don't worry about the casters. and PLEASE forget about anyone putting their fingers under this tank. Under no circumstances should anyone try to lift a corner. 9 poeple is plenty. you would have a hard time fitting any more.

My tank is 8' x 5' and there really isn't room for more than 2 on the end and 3 on a side.

I would cut the pallet down. If you are concerned about cutting it length wise, use a floor or bottle jack placed on blocks close to the pallet. jack up one end of the pallet slightly, make your cut, and re-install a removed piece under the tank to shorten up the pallet. You may have to do it in 2 pieces, but it will not be too hard and will give you better clearance when you get to the stand.

You could also do a people lift, and slide the pallet out part way so it is flush on the stand side of the cart, then let the tank back down. Then you roll it into position and make your move. I would definitely cut the ends off in any case.

Maybe you misunderstood, the guy in the back corner will have a suction cup. I have a total of 8 suction cups, all the people lifting the tank will have a suction cup.
I plan on cutting the pallet, just haven't decided how much to cut yet. I need to determine what is under load and what isn't. But, the ends are not under load and will be cut off. Thanks for the input.

[jnarowe]

got it. tanks looks great. After all the waitinig, it is a great relief when you finally see it on the stand. The way my room is, I had to bring the tank in before the walls were framed, so having the tank and stand on the dollys is really working out well.

Just be glad you don't have to buff your tank!!!

[Cody Ray]

I don't think it's big enough ;)

[CTS]

Those fish are going to think they never left the ocean. You could have guided scuba dives in that thing!!!

[EnglishRebel]

bstone
I know it's probably low on your priority totem pole right now (with the BIG lift coming up) but there's a new gadget out on the market that makes it easy to find and cut your outlet/switch boxes. Basically it's a plastic cover that is a tight fit on the inside of the box and it has a pin in the center. You snap these onto your boxes and just drywall right over the top - you don't even need to measure or mark where they are. When you slap on the sheet of drywall the pin pokes through and shows you where the box is. The plastic cover allows easy zip routing without any chance of cutting your wires.
Just a thought. I'm a gadget freak :D

[bstone]

Originally posted by EnglishRebel
bstone
I know it's probably low on your priority totem pole right now (with the BIG lift coming up) but there's a new gadget out on the market that makes it easy to find and cut your outlet/switch boxes. Basically it's a plastic cover that is a tight fit on the inside of the box and it has a pin in the center. You snap these onto your boxes and just drywall right over the top - you don't even need to measure or mark where they are. When you slap on the sheet of drywall the pin pokes through and shows you where the box is. The plastic cover allows easy zip routing without any chance of cutting your wires.
Just a thought. I'm a gadget freak :D

That is awsome! Can you pick these up at Lowes, Home Depot, or other hardeware stores?

Thanks!:D

[EnglishRebel]

Originally posted by bstone
That is awsome! Can you pick these up at Lowes, Home Depot, or other hardeware stores?

Thanks!:D
I'm not sure - haven't looked. I saw them on an Ask This Old House show as a "What Is It" item. I would think that either an electrical wholesaler or a builders supply house would carry them. Try the electrical supply place first.
In any case if you don't find them make sure you mark the floor directly beneath the box(s) with the number of boxes (if they're stacked above each other). A tip my builder shared with me.

[bstone]

EnglishRebel

Thanks for the info.! I will look into it.

[bstone]

Well, THE TANK IS ON THE STAND!!!

:rollface: :D :bounce1: :bounce3: :bounce2: :dance:

Party TIME!! What a big relief off my shoulders..

Here is a picture!

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00951.JPG

[jnarowe]

awesome. just awesome. what a sweet tank. every time I see a pic of your stand I freak out about all those plugs.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
awesome. just awesome. what a sweet tank. every time I see a pic of your stand I freak out about all those plugs.

Thanks.

With all the 5 Sea Swirls, and about 6 to 8 Tunze Streams, all those outlets along the stand will come in handy!

[EnglishRebel]

Wow- I just know you're glad that's over. Looks great. Now the hard work begins :D

[asnatlas]

Originally posted by bstone
Well, THE TANK IS ON THE STAND!!!

:rollface: :D :bounce1: :bounce3: :bounce2: :dance:

Party TIME!! What a big relief off my shoulders..


WOOT, Congratz... Looks very good, and it does not even have water it in yet :) I am hoping to have my tank next wk... I am going to have pro's move my tank since it's 96x48x30 and it's doing into the basement (non walkout)... I am going to video tape this because when I called them they said that 4 or 5 guys could do it easy :eek2: I was like this tank is 8x4 that is around 1000 - 1200lbs doing down stairs, so this should be good...

Shawn

[sixxer]

Originally posted by asnatlas
WOOT, Congratz... Looks very good, and it does not even have water it in yet :) I am hoping to have my tank next wk... I am going to have pro's move my tank since it's 96x48x30 and it's doing into the basement (non walkout)... I am going to video tape this because when I called them they said that 4 or 5 guys could do it easy :eek2: I was like this tank is 8x4 that is around 1000 - 1200lbs doing down stairs, so this should be good...

Shawn

That videotape should come in handy for the insurance claim!:lol: :eek2:

Thank god for walk-out basements!!!!!

[skippyreef]

Way to go........

It looks sweet on the stand!

Are you drywalling the fish room and insulating it? Did not read that in the thread anywhere.

[tigerarmy40]

Originally posted by EnglishRebel
Wow- I just know you're glad that's over. Looks great. Now the hard work begins :D


you mean the hard part is over and now let the fun stuff begin!!!:D

[bstone]

Originally posted by skippyreef
Way to go........

It looks sweet on the stand!

Are you drywalling the fish room and insulating it? Did not read that in the thread anywhere.

You can see I started the insulation in the picture above. Yes, I do plan on drywalling the room this weekend.

[xcreonx]

Fantastic looking tank! I'm hoping to get Miracles to build my next tank as well.

BTW, I see you're from Carmel... I grew up in Noblesville. Small world huh?!

[bstone]

Originally posted by xcreonx
Fantastic looking tank! I'm hoping to get Miracles to build my next tank as well.

BTW, I see you're from Carmel... I grew up in Noblesville. Small world huh?!

Yep, small world!

[IsThisNameTaken?]

I cant even believe what I'm seeing here! Cant wait to see where this goes!

[AcroSteve]

Originally posted by jnarowe
awesome. just awesome. what a sweet tank. every time I see a pic of your stand I freak out about all those plugs.

Yea, me too.

I would seriously consider moving the ones on the tank stand to a location underneath the stand. Behind a drip edge of sorts.

I can see water running down the back of the tank, or along the small lip around the tank, and then down into the plugs. If you move them so that the water cannot run into them, you will be much better off.

[jnarowe]

Maybe he's got a plan ACRO? I have no plugs below the water level of the tank in my set up, but I also plan to build a "shelf" around the base of the tank that I can stand on, so maybe that's the plan here.

[bstone]

Originally posted by AcroSteve
Yea, me too.

I would seriously consider moving the ones on the tank stand to a location underneath the stand. Behind a drip edge of sorts.

I can see water running down the back of the tank, or along the small lip around the tank, and then down into the plugs. If you move them so that the water cannot run into them, you will be much better off.

You can't see it but, they are resest back into the stand. Also, I will be building a catwalk all around the stand between the outlets and the top of the stand.

[jnarowe]

that makes sense but remember that water doesn't just move down. It wicks in all directions and being recessed really isn't much protection, so a fairly good seal between the catwalk and the stand will be very important.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
that makes sense but remember that water doesn't just move down. It wicks in all directions and being recessed really isn't much protection, so a fairly good seal between the catwalk and the stand will be very important.

I agree, thanks for the tip!

[bstone]

I have almost finished insulating the fish room. I have started the drywall, I borrowed one of those electric zip tools to cut out the hole in the drywall for the outlets. Its works great, but thank goodness for extra large outlet covers!:D I put insulation and Styrofoam between the family room wall and the fish room. This will help reduce noise carrying over to the family room (house). I will also be installing a return and supply vents from my house HVAC and the fish room. So, along with the ceiling vent, house HVAC supply & return, Window A/C, and dehumidifier, I hope to control temp. and humidity within reason! :cool:

I plumbed the chiller today. The 1HP Pacific Coast Import Chiller is going outside. The wall between my fish room and the outside where the chiller will be sitting is brick. So, I had to rent a hammer drill with a hole saw bit designed for brick. It took just less then an hour to drill 2 holes through the brick - what fun! The chiller is sitting in a Rubbermaid plastic outdoor chest. I just drilled two holes for the plumbing and cut out the back area to vent out the air, and side holes that are as big as the vents on the chiller. This way the chiller can stay outside and not have to worry about the rain or other elements. I will post a few pictures later. But, this will help reduce heat in my fish room by having the chiller outside and not in the room. Also, the chiller will get better ventilation being outside.

[jnarowe]

fun stuff. I just finished my sheet rock yesterday and today I have foamed all outlets, cracks, and lamps. I will start the mud soon. And I hear ya on the extra large outlet covers! It's a total ***** to line those things up.

One way I found that works fine is to draw extended lines on the surrounding sheet rock to show where the outlet is, fit the sheet, draw the outlet, and then punch out a small hole withh the claw end of a hammer. I then saw out the box. You MUST be very careful to keep your eyes level with the outlet when you draw your lines....DOH!!

[bstone]

jnarowe

Are you putting foam inside all your outlet boxes; the foam called "Great Stuff"? I was thinking of doing this to help reduce the risk of condensation getting in the boxes..

[jnarowe]

good question. I have contemplated doing that but I have a concern about how flamable it is and being able to work on the outlet later if needed. I foamed the backs and around the sides to limit sound transfer. I have one outlet that mysteriously isn't working and I can't trace the problem. If I foam the inside of the box, I would have to dig for hours to get to the wires. I would guess that it is NOT "Code" to foam the inside of the box.

[bstone]

I would agree. And I agree on the concern of flamablilty of the stuff. I also have concerns if it would conduct electricity.

I have a few oulets well above the tank, just below the ceiling, for my lighting. And I was concerned about condensation in those outlet boxes. I haven't decided what to do yet about them..

When you say you foamed around the boxes to reduce sound, what do you mean?

[smoknreefrs]

the best thing that i would suggest is to wrap about 3 layers of electrical tape around the recepticles....and if their is ever a proble with the recepticles it is easy enough, and cheap enough to just change them out....i really dont think that condesation will be accumulating on the recepticles anyhow.

[jnarowe]

if you look at sound charts that show where sound is coming through a wall, the highest concentration of sound transfer is around the electrical boxes like light switches, plugs, etc. Also through the corners is a higher transfer rate.

Electrical boxes are full of holes and generally have none or much less insulation than the rest of the wall. I foamed around them completely to block the sound transfer.

You might re-think the lighting outlets. I know there are many reefers with oulets above their tanks but I just don't think that is prudent. Lamps come with very long cords and between the distance to the ballast and then the distance to the oulet I see no practical reason to have them above the tank.

My outlets will all be on a wall to one side of the tank and they are "weather-proof". My system is a bit different in that I am using an ACIII Pro with DC4HD's which kind of centralizes where I can make my connections.

[bstone]

Why didn't you use X-10 with your ACIII pro?

Thats is what I am going to use, and have used on my current system.

[jnarowe]

good question. I guess I don't really like the way the X-10 is engineered. Not that I really know anything about it, but I like using the direct wired method. Originally I was going to use DC8's and figured there was a cost savings there as well, but since I am using 1000W MH lamps that draw 9.2A each, I have to use the DC4HD's. It adds a little to the cost, but I think it will be a more solid system.

Like I said, I don't have enough technical knowledge to really pick one over the other, but I felt that buying all those X-10 boxes seemed like a waste.

[jwheeler]

bstone- I just stumbled onto this thread today, I like to look at fantasies in this forum. Too bad I just found it, I would have loved to been there to help. I live in Southern IN and go to Indy all the time on the weekends. Would love to see the tank in person when stocked. Kill 2 birds with one stone and go shopping at PA some time. Tagging along. Killer tank!

[bstone]

Originally posted by jnarowe
good question. I guess I don't really like the way the X-10 is engineered. Not that I really know anything about it, but I like using the direct wired method. Originally I was going to use DC8's and figured there was a cost savings there as well, but since I am using 1000W MH lamps that draw 9.2A each, I have to use the DC4HD's. It adds a little to the cost, but I think it will be a more solid system.

Like I said, I don't have enough technical knowledge to really pick one over the other, but I felt that buying all those X-10 boxes seemed like a waste.

You really should look into X-10 sometime. When done correctly, it has a lot of benifits and works great.

Here is what I bought. The modules are very reasonable and can handle the amps you have. I am using one on my 10amp 1HP chiller, all my lights, pumps, conrtollers, you name it!

220V
http://www.smarthome.com/2021.html

110v
http://www.smarthome.com/2002.html

amp/repeater for your signal - goes on 240v line-
http://www.smarthome.com/4820.HTML

Control Interface
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NEP-IM513&Category_Code=Neptune

Well, if you have any questions just let me know!

[jnarowe]

Is there some problem with the way I am doing it?

What would be the benefits for my tank system?

I understand if I was trying to control appliances all over the house but since all the equipment is in one room, it seems fine to me to use the DC4HD's.

I guess the "no new wiring" is a benefit, but since I had to bring in power, and I wanted all the tank specific wiring to be surface mounted, I figure it's not a great expense to put in 5 dedicated 20A plugs tied into a 100A sub-panel.

We have a train set that is DCC so I understand that part of it fairly well.

[bstone]

jnarowe

Don't get me wrong. There is nothing wrong with what you are doing. And I am not tring to be offensive in any way!

The reason I bring it up is because you mentioned having to have all you controlled devises wire to your controlled DC4HD. With X-10 you just run all your wirng and outlets as you would without it being controlled and then add the module to what ever outlet you want controlled and thats it. No worries about centrally locating a DC4HD. And you can control up to 30 modules.

[jnarowe]

yeah I got you on that. No offense taken at all. I just need to bounce stuff around to get a better picture.

The nice thing about the DC4 & DC8 is that they can be daisy chained to add devices. As it is, I will have 12 devices to start, which should be fine, and I can add another 8 when needed. I am only using 3 MH lamps and the moon lights will all run off one plug in series. I'll add it up:

3 lamps
1 moon light
1 air pump
1 return pump
2 refugium lamps
2 circulation pumps
2 fans

I will have an independent RO/DI system, QT system1 independent fan, etc. so maybe one more DC8 is needed. I went with the minimum to feel out how it will turn out. I am trying to set up a fairly simple system. I can always add X-10's too.

[trueblackpercula]

Great looking tank:) I have a question after you used the leveling cement what did you put over that ? what is the tank bottom resting on?
Thanks
Michael

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6226162#post6226162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by trueblackpercula
Great looking tank:) I have a question after you used the leveling cement what did you put over that ? what is the tank bottom resting on?
Thanks
Michael

1" Styrofoam, the kind that is white with the little beeds.

[trueblackpercula]

ahhhhhhhhhh got ya . this will level the tank got ya. did it work well for you with a tank that size?

[bstone]

Using the 3/4" plywood then 1" of cement, and then the 1" styrofoam really leveled the tank and added the support needed for this size of a tank. The cement really doesn't self level, so I had to trawl it with a 2x4, that is what got it level.

[Rodan]

Wow nice, Thats one huge tank. Makes me rethink upgrading that big right away hahaha...

[tony bernal r]

How much did the tank cost alone? ohhh nice tank by the way

[Lunchbucket]

need to subscribe to this thread...can't wait to see it :D

Lunchbucket

[simonmr]

so what are you goimng to do with all those outlets. you mentioned for some streams b4 I belive are you going to also have a 4 way or somthing to ramdomize the current

[simonmr]

OFF TOPIC: Lunchbucket your occupation keeps getting longer and longer

[Lunchbucket]

simonmr - LOL hasn't gotten longer since May!!! :D but it might get longer if i get to be out local high schools Weight Strength Coach :D what can i say...long name long...... :lol:

Lunchbucket

[newfishguytom]

That is 1 hell of project! looks like you got it handled pretty well!! PROP'S on the planning you realy did your homework.
FEW thing i would just like to say is
1st metal plug boxes is a nono with salt water reason is the salt will eat through them in no time at all
2nd not sure if you sayed your going to do this or not but u may want to use all gfi plugs, you may wana use all green board and not drywall even on out side face (viewing wall).
3rd for your ceiling fan or fans RUBBER OR PLASTIC coat ever part of them (THEY WILL BE THE MOST EXOSED TO THE ELEMENTS)
and last is this may sound silly but plz think about it!!!
YOU may wana pull out all your screws,bults,nuts and dip them in glue then rerun them in this way they will not back out over time

THANKS FOR LISTENING

GOODLUCK and plz post a few more pics of your stock you allready have ..

[brian3]

Awesome project - what do you do with that one though when you get bored of the hobby one day?

[jnarowe]

I'll chime in...some suggestions I have gotten are to turn it into a jaccuzzi or mount an outboard motor on it and give glass bottom boat tours.

One of my buddies calls my tank the "lap pool".:D

[Cathy8424]

I know I am a little slow with this post, but I use all three, DC8, DC4HD and X10 modules. It seems to me that I have more reliability with the DCs than the X10s. The most noticeable difference is with some of the electronic ballast.

As for the electrical, if you go to an electrical supply store, they do have a silicone like substance that they use to fill underground electrical boxes with; like boxes for underground lights that would shine up on an office building or what ever.

I have not decided for sure how I will do my electrical yet, but I will not use metal boxes. I will use either the fiber glass or the plastic. I like the fiber glass better. Your fish room is well ventilated and climate controlled, I don’t think you will have that much problem with condensation in the boxes. Your boxes are mounted straight up and down so even if there is some condensation, it will not be dripping into the outlet. And as suggested previously, if you are concerned, you can wrap the outlet terminals a few times with electrical tape.

I really appreciated the ventilation thread. I got some good ideas form it.

[jnarowe]

I am not too concerned about it on my project since I am using all plastic. I also installed gaskets on all outlets and switches, and I have baby proofing inserts for any outlets that won't be in use. I too figure the DC's will be more reliable, but I have heard horror stories that the fuses blow easily, which would be a real bummer because I got the DC4HD units just to handle my 1000W MH lamps which draw 9.2amps each. We'll see, but I will go into orbit if the fuses blow!

[Cathy8424]

I have two friends that recently got new DC4s and have had trouble with the fuses blowing. I haven't checked throughly, but it looks like the DC4HD uses the same fuse as the DC8? If that is so, what is the point of getting a DC4HD at a much higher price than a DC8? So far, I haven't had one blow yet, knock on wood.

I like your idea about using the baby proofing inserts, I never would have thought of that.

[jnarowe]

As it was explained to me, the DC8 outlets can't handle the amps of a DC4HD:

DC8--each outlet can control up to 6A, total 15A
DC4--each outlet can control up to 8A, total 10A
DC4HD--each outlet can control up to 12A, total 15A

So the DC4 has a unit max of only 10A, which is quite low. If someone has a lamp or 2 plus a pump or 2, that could easily blow a fuse when they are switching on. If you are using it to make waves, that's a lot of on and off, and if lamps and pumps all come on at the same time, that's a definite blown fuse I would think.

[Cathy8424]

Do you know, do the individual outlets have a seperate fuse? What happens if you over load one outlet? So, hypoghetically, on a DC4HD you could only run one 12 amp device and one 3 amp device? Heck, some coffee posts pull nearly that much.

With this information, I'm thinking maybe the other X10 devices are a better investment in the long run?

[bstone]

Update:

The drywall is all up and I am in the process of taping and mudding. I hope to have it sanded and painted the first week of January!:rolleyes:

I bought some of the equipment. Pumps, Sea Swirls, Reflectors, and the skimmers (Two Euro-Reef RC-1000's). I also bought most of the plumbing supplies. I hope to start plumbing in the next week or two! That is when the fun starts!!

I will post some pictures soon!

[jnarowe]

ugh! I hate the taping and mudding!!! Good to hear you are making progress. I have re-installed my utility sink, added a psrayer, routed the slots in the back of the tank, built the refugium stand and will start on the plumbing soon.

[bstone]

I have also installed a utility sink, they are the best for a tank room! Makes cleaning a skimmer much easier then outside wioth a hose or inside in a tub or sink...

I can't wait to start plumbing. Man, I spent way to much on plumbing supplies!! I also goto Savko.com, good prices!

[jnarowe]

Yeah, be careful about the prices though. Large BHs like 3" and up are cheaper at US Plastics, and many parts are cheaper at Lowes/HD like unions and some ball valves. I suppose when you are buying a whole bunch at one time, the tax issue comes into play though.

[scrmbld33]

great project!!! cant wait to see it up and running!!! i see that the metal housings for elect. are coming under fire, would painting the houses work better than bear metal? or pvc conduit for the wiring? should be ok for a while i would think though.. i look forward for the finished project and how many lbs of rock you putting in and from where?

[asnatlas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6398092#post6398092 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bstone
I can't wait to start plumbing. Man, I spent way to much on plumbing supplies!! I also goto Savko.com, good prices!

I agree, Savko is awesome... I love being local to them...

[asnatlas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6398144#post6398144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Yeah, be careful about the prices though. Large BHs like 3" and up are cheaper at US Plastics, and many parts are cheaper at Lowes/HD like unions and some ball valves. I suppose when you are buying a whole bunch at one time, the tax issue comes into play though.

Hmm, Savko is like 1/2 as much as HD and Lowes around here... I went to HD to get some 3/4" ID tubing (10ft) and it was 10.00 (1.00 per ft)... I went to Savko and got 1" ID for $0.50 per foot... Larger size for 1/2 as much... I have compared quite a few things from HD / Lowes with Savko and the cost have been on avg at least 40-50% less...

[asnatlas]

DP :rolleyes:

[jnarowe]

Shawn, I wrote that "certain" things are cheaper at Lowes/HD. The flexible PVC tubing certainly is not. In fact I own a marine business and can by that wholesale, and it is still cheaper from SavKo. But, as I said, you will find better prices sometimes on ball valves, unions, and other PVC fittings. They just don't carry enoughg to do an entire job of course.

I need more BHs and will place another order with Savko this week. Since I found out the Rubbermaid ones are crap!!!

[asnatlas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6402253#post6402253 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Shawn, I wrote that "certain" things are cheaper at Lowes/HD. The flexible PVC tubing certainly is not. In fact I own a marine business and can by that wholesale, and it is still cheaper from SavKo. But, as I said, you will find better prices sometimes on ball valves, unions, and other PVC fittings. They just don't carry enoughg to do an entire job of course.

I need more BHs and will place another order with Savko this week. Since I found out the Rubbermaid ones are crap!!!

jnarowe, I was not trying to say your post was wrong or anything... I was just saying from what I have compared... I was just giving the flex tubing as an example, but almost everything that I have compared with Savko to HD/Lowes, Savko has been a good bit cheaper...

[scrmbld33]

any news??? how many lbs of LR are going in? id like to see the delevery of 1000lbs plus to my door

[scrmbld33]

any news??? how many lbs of LR are going in? id like to see the delevery of 1000lbs plus to my door

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6455103#post6455103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scrmbld33
any news??? how many lbs of LR are going in? id like to see the delevery of 1000lbs plus to my door

Well, I am lucky to live 20 minutes from Premium Aquatics. So, I save a but load on shipping. I already have about 250 lbs of rock. I will problably get about 200 - 300 more..

I have all the drywall up taped, mudded, and sanded. I will prime and paint on monday. Then I will start plumbing this week into the weekend. I hope to have water in it some time this month!!

[jnarowe]

Wasn't that mudding fun?? I am in the middle of mounting my overflow and that's quite a learning curve.

[bstone]

Well,

Here are some updated pictures of my fish room. The drywall is up, and painted. Now I can finish the electrical for the lighting, install the ballast, and install the rail system for the canopy. After that I will start the plumbing and then start the long process of filling the system with R/O water...

Here are the pictures, I hope you like to color!

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00964.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00965.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00966.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00967.JPG

[jnarowe]

I do like the color. That will be good for your tank as well as easy on your eyes. You really should change your user name to "Plug King"! I really like how you placed the plugs over the tank. That should make lighting runs much easier.

The walls look great.

[hdtvguy]

Very nice work! Great idea with the plugs above the tank for the lighting. And under the stand and all over the walls LOL

[Cathy8424]

I like the color alot too. And yes, is sure makes all those outlets stick out. It's good to get them in while you can! It would be a lot harder trying to add them later if you didn't get enough in, in the first place.

[jnarowe]

Cathy8424 Love your viewing couch! That is sweet.

[Kent E]

Looks like it is comming along great. Its hard long work and you are doing a great job.


hail to the plug king. :lol:

[skippyreef]

Looks good,

I know the pain those plugs can be to cut out too :)

[cutsupremetrib]

its soo nice to get off the other sad forums like the one that says my son saw a nemo and wanted one so i decided to start a 2.2 gallon tank and house dory and nemo!!! It enthuses me to see that there are a few people out there that do things responsibly Very nice job.....!!!

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6523434#post6523434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cutsupremetrib
its soo nice to get off the other sad forums like the one that says my son saw a nemo and wanted one so i decided to start a 2.2 gallon tank and house dory and nemo!!! It enthuses me to see that there are a few people out there that do things responsibly Very nice job.....!!! \

Thank You!!:)

[Cathy8424]

Bstone,

Did you use regular paint, or did you use some kind of epoxy, marine paint or some thing else?

I have been trying to decide what I wanted to use. My walls will be green board, and I guess I figured with adequate ventilation a regular semi-gloss paint would be fine?

[jnarowe]

Cathy8424 Check out Page 7 (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=692395&perpage=25&pagenumber=7) of my thread for pics of my walls for reference. I used marine bilge paint.

[AllenFord_SC]

Great palnning and progress so far. This may be a dumb question so feel free to laugh accordingly. Could I use window tint, like the stuff used on cars, on the back and sides of my tank. That way I could see in from the back and sides but yous couldn't see through from the front? At least until the coralline took over. It is a limo grade tint so very dark looking in but high visibility looking out. It would obviously be on the outside of the tank. I just noticed looking at your tank that it resembles tint.

[withoutaclue]

Absolutly amazing bstone, I can't wait to see more.

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6537050#post6537050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cathy8424
Bstone,

Did you use regular paint, or did you use some kind of epoxy, marine paint or some thing else?

I have been trying to decide what I wanted to use. My walls will be green board, and I guess I figured with adequate ventilation a regular semi-gloss paint would be fine?

If you have good ventilation then I would go ahead and use what I did which was a semi-gloss paint, but I put a good primer down first to help with sealing the drywall. Also, my tank room is not in a basement, its on the ground floor so I don't have the humidity problems that a basement would.

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6537701#post6537701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AllenFord_SC
Great palnning and progress so far. This may be a dumb question so feel free to laugh accordingly. Could I use window tint, like the stuff used on cars, on the back and sides of my tank. That way I could see in from the back and sides but yous couldn't see through from the front? At least until the coralline took over. It is a limo grade tint so very dark looking in but high visibility looking out. It would obviously be on the outside of the tank. I just noticed looking at your tank that it resembles tint.

I see no problem using the tint. In fact the back of my overflows are tinted with the plastic.

[jnarowe]

Tint sounds interesting. I have seen really top-notch tanks that have used mirror material too that gives the tank a sense of being much deeper than it really is.

[Jeremy B.]

We used tint on a 73 gallon tank that was setup a few years ago and if you look really hard you can see through it. To someone not looking for that though they would never notice it.

The tank room looks good, I need to get over there soon!!!

[SVTour]

Nice progress on the fishroom :thumbsup: Might I ask how the air conditioner is being vented out? That door beside it look like an interior door...

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6545014#post6545014 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SVTour
Nice progress on the fishroom :thumbsup: Might I ask how the air conditioner is being vented out? That door beside it look like an interior door...

It vents to my garage. The door to my fish room goes to the garage also.

[OCDep]

Better your electric bill then mine.....some day when my goal of winning the lottery comes through I will be there

[jnarowe]

Or you can just not buy your wife any shoes. That cash will run any tank on RC!:D

[SVTour]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6550087#post6550087 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Or you can just not buy your wife any shoes. That cash will run any tank on RC!:D

I hear you brother, but the wife sneaks her way to the shoe store.

Now, if I could just find a site that would take my HD as credit and just tell her it was all for home improvement.

[bstone]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6549969#post6549969 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OCDep
Better your electric bill then mine.....some day when my goal of winning the lottery comes through I will be there

I worked a deal with the electric company. I pay a flat fee every month no matter how much electricity I use. Each year the contract will have to be renewed and renegotiated based off of the previous years usage rates. :rollface: So, I save money in the long run!!

[bstone]

Here are some updated pictures! Also, check out my two new babies!!:D :rollface:

(2) RC1000's
http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00975.JPG

Here is a picture of my lighting system. The open canopy will be on a rail system..

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00978.JPG


Here is a picture of the sumps..

http://home.comcast.net/~bstone261/DSC00977.JPG


The old tank is coming down on Sunday. I have a few guys coming over to help break it down!:)

[simonmr]

now i see why you have all thoes outlets. looking good. great progress