Ice Cap T5 ballast results

[The Grim Reefer]

I ran the 4x54 watt T5 system with the ballasts plugged into a wattage meter to get a true reading of the power usage.

Dynamic Spec T5 ballasts

Wattage used 232

PAR Produced at Sandbed 135

.58 PAR per watt used


Ice Cap 660

Wattage used 303

Par produced at sandbed 183

.6 PAR per watt used


I also put one of my 3 halide ballasts on the watt meter

260 watts. Running a well used 14K Aquaconnect lamp in a ReefOptix reflector I got a PAR of 160 with the fixture sitting right on the tank like the T5's were. I barely get away with running my halide hood about 5 1/2" above the tank (71/2" above the water). I assume the usable PAR would be lower than 100 with the pendant placed a usable distance above the water. But this particular lamp has around 3000 hours on it too so it is hard to say how much it has droped in output.

I am going to try to score a new lamp on my way to or from So Cal for Christmas (assuming I don't get snowed in) so I can see what a new lamp will do in the RO pendant.

At this point I have decided to bite the bullet and put my 6x80 watt T5's back on the tank. The 2 IC ballasts draw 610 watts and put more light to the sandbed (145) then my halides using 780 watts (95).

[roader247]

Grim

Thanks for the info and the hard work, money. and time. you spent testing. Very useful info

[rickburdeniuk]

Great job! Can you confirm the distance to the sandbed, something like 22"?

I want to get a handle on weither or not the icecaps might put out too much light if I have six inches of substrate.

[Horace]

Well I ordered myself some new Icecap reflectors and also 3 x 2 bulb Triad ballasts. I am really looking forward to getting this all setup.

Grim do you have any idea about how much of an increase in light intensity I should expect having 6 bulbs as opposed to the 4 in your test??

[The Grim Reefer]

18" from the surface of the water to the sandbed, or at least to the sensor on the sandbed. Now that I think about it the lights were about 3" above the water for the test. I ran my 80 watt T5's 3 1/2" above the water with no problems so it isn't like the lamps were lower than you could run them long term.

Horrace, I am not sure how much of an increase you will see. I would keep a really close eye on the critters until they acclimate to the light. Maybe start off with 4 lamps and work your way up to 6.

[Horace]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6323488#post6323488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
18" from the surface of the water to the sandbed, or at least to the sensor on the sandbed. Now that I think about it the lights were about 3" above the water for the test. I ran my 80 watt T5's 3 1/2" above the water with no problems so it isn't like the lamps were lower than you could run them long term.

Horrace, I am not sure how much of an increase you will see. I would keep a really close eye on the critters until they acclimate to the light. Maybe start off with 4 lamps and work your way up to 6.

You really think the increase will be that great of and increase over the existing 6x54w that I have now?? Enough to really cause problems?

[The Grim Reefer]

Going from a sunlight supply Tek reflector to the Ice Cap is more than 10% at the depth you are running. Going from a flat reflector an possibly questionable ballasts? Maybe double. I assume you are using good lamps.

[udaman]

T5 ballasts compared (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=724967&perpage=25&pagenumber=1)

Crosslink to previous thread from which this thread had it's genesis?

I'll be back for more comments later today, on both threads. Seems I remember Andy saying the T-5 HO 54w would overdrive to ~80w with the 660 ballast, where as the NO T-12's are running around 67w. I'm guessing limitation on overdrive has to do with internal resistance of the design of the particular tube, considering the IC ballasts are originally designed to drive 110w VHO T-12 (meaning that if the internal resistance for a particular tube where such that it could be driven to 110w, then it would be so driven by the IC 660 or 430).

BTW, forecast for So. Cal. is balmy lower-to-mid '70's F daytime through Christmas... hope the shock is not too great for the Grim to acclimate ;-)

Horace wouldn't have to guesstimate if Apoogee PAR meters were available from all of the local clubs on a timely basis (more than one per club) or we did a Group Buy to get a decent discount on the $249 meters. Anyone know of which RC supporters actually stock these, and would be 'harmed' by another RC supporting business from doing a large GB on this? I'm not satisfied with the limited information I've received thus far from a few of the RC staff, so I'm going to update this thread later with more questions

Group Buy policies? (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=731647)

[Horace]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6323890#post6323890 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Going from a sunlight supply Tek reflector to the Ice Cap is more than 10% at the depth you are running. Going from a flat reflector an possibly questionable ballasts? Maybe double. I assume you are using good lamps.

Wow, I totally didnt expect double the light. Yes I am using good bulbs. I have 3 Blue+, 2 AB, 1 GE daylight as per your instructions a few months back :P. I think the tank looks great already actually. I know you say double PAR is possible, you really think I will SEE a noticable brightness difference as well?

[The Grim Reefer]

You can't always see the difference but I think you are going to. Using the 2 lamp fixtures you probably aren't blocking as much light as the 6 or 8 lamp units would with the lamps all being crammed in together. I'd still say depending on the ballast you could end up doubling the light. If you can see a noticable difference for sure start with 4 lamps and slowly add in the last two once everything acclimates for a week or so.

[Horace]

Cant wait :P. I will do that. I want to see my monties grow like weeds! They have been starved for a while and I think they will appreciate coming into the light :)

[dvanacker]

So...what is the consensis on the bulb life with overdriving them on a 660. Does it shorten the life of the bulbs??

Also when should we be changing them...I have read everything from 6months to 2years.

[The Grim Reefer]

Any time after a year as far as lamp life. It will really depend on your particular situation. I had 14 months on my overdriven 80 watt lamps and they still had planty of PAR. You just need to run fans if you overdrive to keep the lamps from getting too hot.

[wbeavers]

I was going to run my 150 gal. 48x30x24 BB with 6 x 54W & 2 250W DE; all on Ice cap ballasts. Now after looking at this I think I will run 8 x 54W on Icecap ballasts w/ no Metal Halide. I had Already decided that the 2 x 54W Icecap over the frag tank was too much. So I will relocate that ballast to the top, and replace it with a Workhorse 5.


Old plan
Display tank

Blueplus 430
Aquablue 660
GE Daylight 660
MH MH 14Ks DE
GE Daylight 660
Aquablue 660
Blueplus 430

Frag tank 48x12x9

GE Daylight 430#2
Blueplus 430#2

12 PM 2 Blueplus on / Frag tank lighting off
1 PM 2 GE/2Aquablues on
4 PM 2 250 DE 14K MH on
8 PM 2 250 DE 14K MH off
11PM 2 GE/2Aquablues off
12AM 2 Blueplus off / Frag tank lighting on

New plan
Display tank 48x30x24

Blueplus 430 #1
Aquablue 660
GE Daylight 660
Blueplus 430 #2
Aquablue 430 #2
GE Daylight 660
Aquablue 660
Blueplus 430 #1

Frag tank 48x12x9

GE Daylight WH5
Blueplus WH5

This is the photo period I think I will run. I want the highest intensity midday.

12 PM 2 Blueplus on 430 #1/ Frag tank lighting off WH5
1 PM 2 GE/2Aquablues on 660
4 PM 1 Blueplus/1 Aquablue on 430 #2
8 PM 1 Blueplus/1 Aquablue off 430 #2
11PM 2 GE/2Aquablues off 660
12AM 2 Blueplus off 430 #1 / Frag tank lighting on WH5

[The Grim Reefer]

I would experiment with your mix. perhaps try the GE's on 430 #2 so they come on from 4 to 8. really will depend on your taste in light and the critters you keep.

[goodfortune]

Grimreefer:

I am thinking about upgrading to either a 75g or 90g tank in the next few months, using t5 lighting. The tank will be SPS dominant, as is my current Halide-lit Oceanic 58.

I'd prefer to go with the 90g for extra room and water volume, but I am unsure about using T5s on a 90g, due to the depth (24").

What do you think about lighting an SPS dominant 90g using T5s? Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

- Michael

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6387731#post6387731 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by goodfortune
Grimreefer:

I am thinking about upgrading to either a 75g or 90g tank in the next few months, using t5 lighting. The tank will be SPS dominant, as is my current Halide-lit Oceanic 58.

I'd prefer to go with the 90g for extra room and water volume, but I am unsure about using T5s on a 90g, due to the depth (24").

What do you think about lighting an SPS dominant 90g using T5s? Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

- Michael

Here's what Iwan did with T5's over a 211 that is 24" tall
http://www.hausriff.ch/media/DIR_127501/ganz.jpg

Here's the link to the thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=700454

[goodfortune]

AMAZING!!!!!!! :eek:

I will definitey check that thread out; thanks Grim Reefer!

- Michael

[Fliger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6386843#post6386843 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wbeavers
I was going to run my 150 gal. 48x30x24 BB with 6 x 54W & 2 250W DE; all on Ice cap ballasts. Now after looking at this I think I will run 8 x 54W on Icecap ballasts w/ no Metal Halide.

Boy thats funny. I'm having a tank built that is 48x32x20. I bought the Aqua Medic Sunlight NG that comes with 2x250W DE and 4x54W. I am definitely going to switch out the AM ballast for Icecap. I'm also talking to a light builder to build me a pendant with 8x54W driven by 2x660's. I dunno how long it will take him to finish but I'll be sure to post pix. :) Here is Iwan's new pendant, I wish they'd import to the U.S.

http://www.atiaquaristik.com/content/images/56f8e1a257d427fa029b53f274ce1296.jpg

[Floridiot]

I've got an 8 x 54W TEK fixture. Now that you've shown the IceCap 660 IS almost as energy efficient as the dynamic ballast, I'd like to upgrade 4 of my bulbs to run on the IceCap. I should be able to remove two of the Triad ballasts in the hood and run external wires for the bulbs that will be connected to the IceCap 660 which will be mounted in the stand below.

My bulbs are as follows in order from front to back:

aquablue
aquablue
actinic +
aquablue
actinic +
aquablue
actinic +
aquablue

My question is, which 4 of the 8 bulbs would you overdrive?

a.) The four in the center?
b.) Every other bulb?
c.) The front two and the rear two?

[jackson vile]

how is this going for everyone?