Alright I got the PVC cleaner, now what do I do?

[jmccalip]

I have PVC cleaner, primer and cement. Do I wait for the cleaner to dry before I put on the primer? And then do I wait for the primer to dry? Thanks

[jmccalip]

LOL, savko messed up! I ordered a 1.5" standard ball valve and they sent me a 1.5" sch 80 True Union Ball Valve! I guess I'll keep it, I want my tank running soon.

[Bkndsdl]

Get some red rags, and when you apply the cleaner, wait a few secs then wipe the excess off w/ a rag. I've never used the primer; I use the cleaner (at times) and the cement.

When you put the cement on, put it in the fitting, not on the pipe; when you push the pipe on it takes alot of the glue w/it (just my opinion). If you use this method, MAKE SURE NOT TO PUT TOO MUCH GLUE IN THE FITTING. You don't want it gluing parts together that shouldn't be glued......

I let them sit for at least a couple hrs, then flush them for an hour with a waterhose. After that I put it in svc; never a prob.

[Fl_seagull]

Cleaner is just that. When I use it I will often brush it on and then wipe (scrub) with a paper towel. You do not need for the cleaner to dry.

The primer is a little different. If I am using standard PVC, I will let it stand for just a littile bit (15 to 30 seconds) and then use the cement. If I am using spa-flex (flexible PVC), then I will test fit the joint, prime, let sit for a minute or so, then cement with "WET and Dry" PVC glue and then hold the joint for 5 minutes. The role of the primer is to soften the PVC and improve bonding. I am not looking for it to dry before I use cement. One problem I have noted with the cleaner and primer is the tendance for the pipe to swell after using. If wait to long (15-30 minutes) before cementing sometime the pipe will not fit into the fitting.

Flexible PVC is hard to get a good joint. Sometimes it doesn't fix standard fitting well. If it doesn't go into the fitting easily it will push its way out the fitting. This is why I hold it for 5 minutes. The longer stand time with the primer and the use of "wet and Dry" cement helps to improve the bond. There is a special flexible PVC cement but I have never found it commonly available.

[drowningdreamer]

LOL, savko messed up! I ordered a 1.5" standard ball valve and they sent me a 1.5" sch 80 True Union Ball Valve! I guess I'll keep it, I want my tank running soon.

If the standard was cheaper than the true union then i'd say thats a good deal. And if its threaded then you can reuse it for other projects.

[Fl_seagull]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6585737#post6585737 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bkndsdl
...MAKE SURE NOT TO PUT TOO MUCH GLUE IN THE FITTING. You don't want it gluing parts together that shouldn't be glued......

Getting the glue on the face of the union is a bad thing. Wipe it off quickly if you do; I have had union joints not seal well after primer and/or glue got on the face.

[BruiseAndy]

Use the cleaner on the socket and pipe. Same with the primer. You may have to apply primer 2 or 3 times, you want to get the pvc soft enough to scratch it with your fingernail. Once you can do that apply a light amount of cement to pipe and socket while primer is still wet. Put the pieces together with a twist to make sure you get glue completely in joint. If you apply too much glue to socket it will pool inside and restrict flow. Oatey has a nice little video if you need any more info


http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Video/solventweld_3_5mb.wmv


Oatey also makes a Heavy duty PVC cement which has a heavier body to fill gaps which you should use on flex pvc.

[kiowascout]

on the note of flex PVC glue....

There is a commonly available cement for Flex PVC (Spa Flex). It is in a pale blue can and ready for purchase at most home improvement stores. Just ask the worker to point ou in the rigt direction.