Ultimate 20G Setup Journal - Pic Intense

[DSparks]

Hello! Welcome to the diary thread for my custom 20 gallon nano setup. I've been in the planning stages for over a year now. This has been a slow going project. My wife and I had our first child last April, so needless to say my priorities have changed quite a bit.

I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality. Many were taken in the garage at night after the baby was asleep. Feel free to ask for more pictures of anything that interests you. As time permits I'll try to pull together some better snapshots.

Before I get into the details I want to thank everyone here for all of their help and ideas over the last few years. I spend many lunch hours and late nights lurking through the boards. Most of the ideas incorporated into this setup have come from other members' ingenious designs. There is very little that I can personally take credit for.

My 10 gallon has been in operation for over 2 years. It's been a great tank to operate while learning more about the hobby. Based on experiences with this tank I had several goals in mind when designing the new setup:

First, I wanted a clean looking system. One of the things that drive me crazy with the 10 gallon is all of the wires and plumbing hanging out of the back. It really takes away from enjoying the tank when all those ugly wires and hoses catch my eye.

Second, I wanted better control over equipment. Climbing around on the floor cramped behind the tank to unplug a pump or turn off a timer is just plain silly.

Third, I didn't want the size of the 20 gallon tank to limit the size of the sump/fuge in the stand. The stand I built for my 10 gallon has a tiny footprint which really limited my options for external equipment.

Finally, I wanted easy access to all parts of the setup (plumbing, electrical, etc). I have to admit that I don't have the best history of tank maintenance. I'm lazy, so the easier I can make things the better off my tank will be.

[DSparks]

I kept all of these goals in mind when designing the stand. My tools are limited so I decided to use the project wood from Lowes. It comes in a variety of wood types and sizes. I went with laminated pine.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Wood_1.jpg

The stand's length and width is larger than the base of the tank to accommodate a larger sump/fuge, a storage area, and a panel of switches to control receptacles for equipment.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Wood_2.jpg

The switches will control 5 receptacles in the sump/fuge area and three receptacles on the back of the stand for lights and fans in the hood.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Wood_3.jpg

One heavy duty extension cord will be used to feed the power panel, which will in turn feed each of the receptacles. I had considered using the DJ power panels that others have used, but they were a little too wide for my liking. I also had quite a few switches and receptacles left over from finishing my basement, which made the decision easier.

[DSparks]

There was some some exterior oil based paint left over from a window painting project. This was perfect for painting the interior of the stand. The tank ened up with 6 coats of paint when all was said and done.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Paint_1.jpg

Notice the angled cut-out at the top of the storage area on the left. In the middle of building the stand I realized I was working myself into a pickle. Without notching out this area I wouldn't have been able to plumb a return up the left side of the tank.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Paint_2.jpg

[DSparks]

The tank will sit about five inches from the back of the stand. This will allow for an external overflow to drain down into the sump/fuge area. I'll also plumb the returns back up through this opening.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Early_View_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Early_View_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Early_View_3.jpg

[DSparks]

I opted to go with an external overflow to maximize usable space within the tank. I missed taking some pictures while building the external overflow. Never fear, there are several good threads out that walk through the process step by step.

Here's how I drilled the holes. I'm installing two drains in case one gets clogged. Thanks to my wife for the play dough (kindergarten teacher).

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_1.jpg

Here I'm dry fitting the box.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_3.jpg

Here's the overflow complete with the tank on the stand. You can see now why I needed to create the angled section on the right. It will allow me to snake plumbing up that side of the tank for a return.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_5.jpg

I was able to get all the plumbing parts I needed at Lowes. Gone are the days of paying for overpriced bulkheads.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_4.jpg

[DSparks]

I stained and polyurethaned the stand. Here's a picture from the front. I still need to install magnetic catches to hold the doors closed and child safety locks to keep little man out of it. I'll probably also inset the door hinges to get a cleaner fit.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_1.jpg

These pictures show the back section (which hides the plumbing) and the hood, which is anchored to the back section.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_6.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Hood_1.jpg

I struggled over the best way to assemble the back to the stand and the hood to the back. I needed to be able to disassemble these pieces easily so that I can get at the plumbing for maintenance and repair. I finally settled on using threaded inserts and furniture screws (from the Lowes specialty hardware drawers). They work great!

For some reason the stain looks orange in this picture.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_7.jpg

The hood attaches to the back also using the threaded inserts and furniture screws.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_8.jpg

I decided on the "keep it simple" approach when building a mechanism to hold the hood open. An oak dowel rod and several shallow holes allow the hood to be held open in three different positions. I still need a clever way to store the dowel rod when the hood is closed (any ideas?).

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_9.jpg

[DSparks]

Lowes had everything I needed to build the Durso standpipes. The drains are one inch, which may be overkill for a 20 gallon.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_4.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_5.jpg

To keep algae from growing in the overflow box I build a lid out of some of the leftover black acrylic.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_6.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Overflow_7.jpg

[DSparks]

I was having trouble coming up with the best way to handle the wiring until my brother-n-law drew out a nice wiring diagram (Thanks Josh!). I picked up a heavy duty black extension cord and spliced it into 14 gauge wire. I then used the 14 gauge to wire everything together.

Notice the three receptacles that will control the lights and fans in the hood. I'm a little concerned about fitting both timers and 12 volt adapters into only these three receptacles.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Power_Back.jpg

I also used threaded inserts and furniture screws to attach the switch panel to the stand. This will make it easy to access the wiring in the event that something needs to be repaired or upgraded.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Power_Front.jpg

And here are the five receptacles that will power the return pump, skimmer, fuge light, heater, auto top off, and any other necessary equipment.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Setup_3.jpg

After some debate I installed task lighting. Since most of my time with the tank will be in the evening I figure that I'll be happy with the decision. I'm a little worried about how the lights will hold up in the high moisture content, but each light and fixture only run about six bucks so I can live with replacing them every now and them.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Task_Lights.jpg

[DSparks]

And here's the sump/fuge in place. It fits perfectly [insert sigh of relief].

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Install_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Install_2.jpg

Because I was working with a near square footprint I had to get a little creative with the design of the sump. Along with RC, Melev's site has been an excellent resource for sump/fuge design. Honestly, I've never operated a sump or refugium, so I can't say how well what I've come up with will work. Feel free to chime in with comments or critique.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Schematic.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_4.jpg

Here's a shot of the media tray. It'll be fed by the skimmer output

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_2.jpg

The skimmer section is a little tighter than what I had hoped for. I may have to forego the media tray to have enough room for the drains :(

[DSparks]

And finally, here's a couple full tank shots showing where I am to date.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Full_View_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Full_View_2.jpg

[DSparks]

To Do List:

1. Decide on a pump. Any suggestions? I'll be plumbing the return through a SCWD. I'll also tee off of the return to feed the fuge (a.k.a. Melev style). I'm thinking maybe a Mag 5?

2. Decide on Lighting. I'm leaning towards a retrofit kit from Hello Lights. A 150W MH with 2x55W Actinic PC's. Anyone have experience with these (or other) retrofit kits?

3. I'm debating whether or not to DIY a thin Agrocrete wall to cover the back of the tank. I've see other's use the Great Stuff foam, but I'm not crazy about possible long term breakdown of the product.

4. Decide between a thin sand bed and a fake sand bed. I've seen threads where some have created an epoxied sandbed that has the natural look and allows for greater flow.

5. Decide on Cooling Fans. They MUST be quiet. The noise from the 10 gallon setup drives my wife nuts.

5. Build a matching chest style bench seat that will sit next to the tank and hold top off water and maybe a kalk reactor.

6. 30 other things that I'm not considering at this point in time (heater, fuge macro, ph monitor, etc, etc, etc).

I've made excellent progress in the past couple of months, but I'm still far from having it up and running. I really wanted to wait on posting anything until I was filling the tank with water, but I realized that I can really benefit from the collective critique here at RC. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Do you see anywhere that I'm going to get into trouble? What about lights or the return pump? Cut loose and let me know what you what you think!

[Croman]

That is one slick setup. Keep us posted.

[louist]

wow, this is awesome! You get the double thumbs up from me. The work light inside the cabinet will also double as lighting for your fuge.

Personally, I would install an acrylic sheet under the power plugs to guard against splashes from the sump. Just in case.

[jeep4x4greg]

beautiful! way to pay attention to detail!


yur giving me ideas for building the stand for my next/bigger tank

[DSparks]

Thanks for the kind words. Greg, you have to keep me in the loop when you start your next setup.

Louis, the acrylic guard is a great idea! I'm adding that to the setup for sure.

Keep those comments coming, and feel free to be constructive.

[Kigs]

sweet setup

[shouldabenacowboy]

Looks Great!!!

But you did all this work and there is no flowing water yet??....j/k :)

As mentioned before.....keep us posted !!!!!


SBC

[mmd]

very nice concept and excellent craftmanship

[DSparks]

Thanks guys! I'll be keeping the thread updated as I make progress.

Anyone have any advice related to my questions (pump and lights)?

[Maxius]

mag 7 for return pump, it would be perfect for a squid,

[Genin]

wow that is coming together super clean. great job!

[DSparks]

Wow, so a Mag 7 eh? Is that not overkill for a 20 gallon, even an SPS dominated one? Can the Mag Drives be throttled down with a ball valve without causing damage (in case it's too much pump)?

[guntercb]

Sparks,

Yes, you can throttle back the Mag 7 with a ball valve. The only issue would be that you use more electricity than you need. No real worries.

How did you cut the tank down for the overflow? Did you use a tile cutter bit? Thanks. Or can you post a thread link that you used for the idea?

Cheers,
Chris

[DSparks]

Thanks Chris. Looks like I'll go with the Mag 7. I'd rather over buy than end up with something underpowered.

To cut the glass I used a Rotozip Tile Cutter bit in my Dremel. Just keep the bit and glass cool by running water over them while cutting. I used a really small pump and airline tubing to keep a continuous stream pouring over the cutting area. It literally took about 5 minutes to make the cut. I was impressed with how well the Rotozip bit worked. One note of caution...the process is extremely loud. Wear earplugs if you have them.

[guntercb]

Sparks,

Thanks for the update on the Tile Cutter. If I do the same I will get my earplugs.

BTW, I don't think you will find the Mag 7 overpowered. If you do, I would first try splitting the flow into the tank and not throttling back, but if you feel you need to throttle back by all means use a ball valve.

Nice tank. Good luck.

Chris

[DSparks]

Chris, that idea makes too much sense. No wonder I didn't come up with it. I'll already be tee'ing off to the fuge. I'll add another tee back to the sump if the flow seems too high. I can also modify this tee to make water changes a lot easier.

See, I knew you all would have great ideas. Maybe I should have had you all involved earlier in the process.

[vest0830]

I love thtat stand! Very nice! that tank seems to be comming together very nice!

[guntercb]

Sparks, Actually, I was thinking about teeing off another connection going to your tank. I would guess your pump will actually put out about 400 gph in your setup. That is only 20x your tank volume. I don't think you will find flow is to strong, but if it is too strong you can just tee off and put another inflow into the tank. That would make the flow to each inflow 1/2 the orginal flow and would lessen the strengh. Does that make sense at all?

Or like you thought you can just tee off and and divert the flow back to the sump. Many people do this and if it helps with water changes I would do that. Any thing to make them easier makes life better.

Good luck,
Chris

[clown fanatic]

WOW, def tagging along

[fishes2889]

Sparks ,
absolutley brilliant !!!!!!! i love th eDIY work on this project...........count me in

peace

[DSparks]

Thanks vest, clown and fishes. I hope that I can keep enough updates coming to keep it interesting for you.

Chris,
Someone posted this chart in one of my threads over on NR. According to it the 400 gph will drop even more (to 360). So I think you have convinced me on the Mag 7.

Flow into SCWD-------SCWD TD Output-------Efficiency-------Switching Duration
150 gph----------------90 gph---------------60%-------------22 seconds
180 gph---------------120 gph---------------65%-------------16 seconds
240 gph---------------180 gph---------------75%-------------12 seconds
270 gph---------------210 gph---------------80%-------------10 seconds
330 gph---------------240 gph---------------80%--------------9 seconds
400 gph---------------360 gph---------------90%--------------7 seconds
600 gph---------------540 gph---------------90%--------------5 seconds
720 gph---------------660 gph---------------90%--------------4 seconds

[DSparks]

Hi all. Last night I was looking around the OceanMotions website. I'm starting to wonder if a Squirt is not the right way to go.

Advantages:
*There wouldn't be any flow loss with the Squirt, whereas the SCWD will cause a loss of flow.
*Four alternating outputs instead of just the two on a SCWD.

Dis-advantages:
*I have two brand new SCWD's still in the box. They were sent to me free of charge when I had a problem with the first SCWD I purchased.
*Possibly the plumbing. I'm not sure if I would have room to get everything plumbed without creating a mess of pipes. Any experiences with a similar situation out there?

[guntercb]

DSparks,

Someone needs to talk to the SCWD company. You cannot have water dissapper. )-: 150 GPH in and 90 GPH out. What happens to the 60 other gallons per hour? Do they go to the water gods? I know the chart is right off the web site of the company that makes the SCWD, but it is not correct. I know what they are trying to do, but the correct why to present the data would be to tell the friction loss associated with various flows. Preferable the friction loss would be head loss per foot.

You will find the Mag 7 has alot less flow than you think by the time you set it up. I assume it is being used to pump from an open sump to the the tank above?

Good luck with your SCWD or Squirt decision. By the why the Squirt has some friction loss associated with it. It may be so low it is neglegable and it probuably is. But any time water flows through something there is a friction loss.

Keep us posted.

Cheers,
Chris

[DSparks]

Chris, you are correct. The Mag 7 will be returning water from an open sump up to the tank (about 4 feet), with either a SCWD or Squirt inline. I'm going to have my wife pick up a Mag 7 for my birthday. Thanks for the help on this. I would have went with the Mag 5 and probably have not been satisfied.

I'm not an engineer, so I can't speak with any authority. I've always assumed the loss in flow with SWCD's was due to the energy required to turn the mechanism that switches the outputs. I can say that I did see a difference in flow amount when I added a SCWD to my 10 gallon while testing plumbing. How much of a drop I can't say since there really wasn't a way to accurately measure for it.

This has been the most difficult thing to work through in both my setups. It's really hard to judge how much flow is the "right amount". Then you have to choose the right pump to deliver that flowrate after head loss and plumbing. Considering all of those factors it seems to be horseshoes and hand grenades anyway.

[ktkreegs]

Nice tank and stand. I'm going to have to go back thru this thread a couple of times to try and copy some of your ideas if you don't mind?

I was wondering about your external overflow. Could you show more pictures of how you set that up and how you glued it to the tank? Also, how did you cut the top of the tank, where the overflow teeth are? And/or is the back of the tank black acrylic? Confused?

nice setup man...will be following this one

[DSparks]

Thanks ktkreegs. Feel free to copy anything you like. Most of the ideas I incorporated here have been done before by other members. I'll try to get some additional pics tonight and give you some more details after I get home from work. Stay tuned...

[sidjam]

very nice set-up!! i'm setting up a 29g similar to yours. i'm going with a om squirt on a closed loop with a panworld 50px-x pump. lots of flow!!

[DSparks]

sidjam, let me know once you post the details of your setup. Where abouts in Indiana are you?

[DSparks]

ktkreggs, here are more pics of the overflow. It'll try to give you some more details about how I built it.

A 1/4" black piece of acrylic was cut to fit the back of the tank. Slots were routed across the top where the water will drain into the external overflow box. Take special care not to route the slots too deep or the water level in the tank will be too low.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_1.jpg

The trim at the back of the tank was cut off, and a Rotozip Tile Cutting bit in a Dremel tool was used to grind a notch out of the glass where the overflow slots will be.

Four pieces of glass form the box. The bottom piece of glass needs at least one hole cut or drilled for the bulkhead. I found that siliconing the box together separate from the tank and then siliconing the box to the tank as one piece was the best way to build the external overflow box.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_2.jpg

Next the black acrylic was siliconed to the back of the tank. It's difficult to keep even pressure on the acrylic while it cures. I ended up rolling up some hosing to create a spring and placing it inside the tank close to the bottom. This, along with clamps at the top, created enough pressure to get good adhesion.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_3.jpg

The last step was to install the plumbing. Everything I needed was available at Lowes, and in total couldn't have cost much more than $15.00.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_2.jpg

Here are a few more pics for reference. I'll try to hunt down some better threads on building an external overflow.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_5.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_6.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/overflow_detail_7.jpg

[DSparks]

ktkreegs, here's another thread on an external overflow.

Impur's 29 Gallon External Overflow (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=502320)

While our approaches were a little different, the end results ended up very similar.

There is one other thread I'd like to find for you. It's the original external overflow (at least the first one I had ever seen). It's also on a 20H, like mine.

[springerhd]

Looks awesome! What a great idea for a nano tank, built into the stand like that it looks very professional!

For your bulkheads - or lack of, I assume you're counting on the water that leaks past just dripping into your sump?

Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of lights are you planning on and how do you plan on keeping the heat buildup down?

[DSparks]

Thanks for the kind words springer. I'm not sure what you mean by the lack of bulkheads. Maybe I mis-communicated in an earlier post. I created my own bulkheads from pluming parts and o-rings I purchased at Lowes rather than buying the specialty bulkheads that are more expensive. It's basically like this:

(Slip Female | Threaded Male) -> O-Ring -> Hole in Glass -> (Threaded Female | Slip Female)

Sorry if this doesn't make sense. Maybe I'll grab a pic tomorrow.

As far as lights go I'm thinking a 150W MH with 2x55W PC's. Probably 10K MH and All Actinic PC's. I'm hoping that evap (with fans) alone will control the temp.

[sidjam]

yes i plan to. i'm in connersville, about an hour from cinncy.

[cmondo]

Hey Sparks I have been watching your tank progress for a bit, just thought I'd make my first post and recommend T5's instead of PC's. They are much brighter and the blue you get out of them is actual blue and not the purple you usually get from PC's.

[DSparks]

Thanks cmondo. I've never really considered T5's before because I don't know much about them. I guess now is the time to do the research. I know they are a bit more costly to purchase. How about life of the bulb and replacement costs?

[ktkreegs]

dsparks - thanks for the extra thread. I'm learning a lot, I'm sure I will continue to have more questions. Did you find that other thread that you were looking for?

[guntercb]

DSparks,

What speed did you use with the tile bit to cut the glass? I assume the highest setting?

I am very afraid to try a cut on my tank, but I like what you did and I am considering it.

Thanks,
Chris

[DSparks]

ktkreegs, I couldn't locate that thread. It was a great one too. I haven't been able to access to search function. I'll try again later today.

Chris, imitation is the greatest compliment. Thanks! I did use the highest speed on the Dremel. It really did cut like butter. Just make sure that you keep it really wet and cool. One other comment. Cut the notch out it smaller pieces rather than one large piece. I did this to avoid any added vibrations that may have cracked the tank.

[fishes2889]

i am so afraid when it comes to drilling a tank. my uncle had a 120 g tryed to drill a hole in the bottom....made a huge crack and was never able to repair it. lost a good amount of $$$.

peace

[springerhd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6636887#post6636887 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks
Thanks for the kind words springer. I'm not sure what you mean by the lack of bulkheads. Maybe I mis-communicated in an earlier post. I created my own bulkheads from pluming parts and o-rings I purchased at Lowes rather than buying the specialty bulkheads that are more expensive. It's basically like this:

(Slip Female | Threaded Male) -> O-Ring -> Hole in Glass -> (Threaded Female | Slip Female)

Sorry if this doesn't make sense. Maybe I'll grab a pic tomorrow.

As far as lights go I'm thinking a 150W MH with 2x55W PC's. Probably 10K MH and All Actinic PC's. I'm hoping that evap (with fans) alone will control the temp.


Makes sense now, I just could see the o-ring in the picture.

Are the fans going to be on the sump? You could probably have one blowing over the sump and another one blowing air out of your stand through the opening you have behind the tank. I'm used to dealing with larger tanks where heat is always a huge problem, but am just getting into nano's and imagine with all the submersible pumps (and MH in an enclosed canopy like that) the problem would be the same or worse.

[kroniclove]

wow, wow, wow,,,,,,

i am starting up my tank soon. and would love to be able to do custom work likeyou. just not creative enough, but limited on the time.

[DSparks]

I am so afraid when it comes to drilling a tank. my uncle had a 120 g tryed to drill a hole in the bottom....made a huge crack and was never able to repair it. lost a good amount of $$$.

fishes, I would be a nervous wreck drilling a large tank like your Uncles. Since we are working with Nano's they aren't as expensive to replace :)

Are the fans going to be on the sump? You could probably have one blowing over the sump and another one blowing air out of your stand through the opening you have behind the tank. I'm used to dealing with larger tanks where heat is always a huge problem, but am just getting into nano's and imagine with all the submersible pumps (and MH in an enclosed canopy like that) the problem would be the same or worse.

springer, I am a little worried about the heat. I am planning on a fan over the sump to help with evaporation. There will be two fans in the hood hopefully handling the MH heat. My current 10 gallon has a 70W MH and it does OK with one fan.

Do you happen to know if T5's run cooler than PC's?

...just not creative enough, but limited on the time.

kroniclove, you can do this, I'm sure of it. Like I've said before, most of my ideas were "borrowed" from other setups. And as far as the time thing, I've been working this setup for months. And it'll probably be a few more months before I there's water in the tank. Just have a little patience. The payoff is well worth it.

[DSparks]

So right now I'm struggling with lights. I've been planning on a MH/PC combination all along. But it seems like the trend is heading towards the T5's. I've only found one 24" MH/T5 combination retro kit, and it didn't look that great. I guess I can always piece together my own kit, but I'm really looking for something a little easier.

Thoughts?

[sidjam]

i'm going with a 250w DE pfo mini-pendent and a phoenix 14k bulb, no antics.

[DSparks]

Wow, how are you planning to handle the heat?

[sidjam]

i'm using an open top canopy with fans.

[sidjam]

i was wondering why you didn't put GFCI outlets in? they are a must imo. here is a good place to get them if you decide to.http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-OF-10-ARROW-HART-BLACK-15A-120V-DUPLEX-GFCI_W0QQitemZ7579776858QQcategoryZ41499QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[DSparks]

I'm going to plug the tank into a wall outlet that is GFCI. That'll make all the other outlets downstream GFCI protected. This way I'm only using up one GFCI instead of eight.

[sidjam]

if the one GFCI trips when your gone your whole tank will shut down. if you had 8 seperate GFCI outlets and one trips it wouldn't be as big a deal.

[springerhd]

I'd almost rather have everything shut down. Imagine if the fans outlet tripped but the lights stayed on - he'd fry the whole thing. If everything shuts off and he catches it the same day, water may cool down a couple degrees, some corals may not be happy, but nothing gets boiled.

[DSparks]

A tiny bit of progress this evening. I removed the doors and recessed the hinges so that they are flush with the cabinet facing. This was done to help alleviate the problem with the doors wanting to spring open instead of closing flush with the cabinet.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/flush_hinge_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/flush_hinge_2.jpg

[DSparks]

And since I haven't made much more progress recently, here's a few pics of the jig I threw together to help me cut the teeth in the overflow and the sump.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/tooth_jig_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/tooth_jig_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/tooth_jig_3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/tooth_jig_4.jpg

[DSparks]

Yeah, I see your point sidjam. Really doing it either way has risk involved. One way I miss the fans until it's too late and the tank fries. The other way I'm out of town for two days and the whole system goes dead.

I'm going to stick with my plan of one GFCI in the wall. If I do go out of town I'll have someone checking on my tank for me that can reset the GFCI if necessary.

[sidjam]

i still haven't decided whether to go with a calfo style overflow or an external like yours. do you like it so far? is it very noisy?

also where did you get your 1/4" black acrylic?

[chocolateblnt]

pretty fancy cabinetry for a 20 gallon ... can't wait for some H2o action!

[DSparks]

sid, I haven't run any water through it yet. Hopefully I can get my return pump soon and do my first water test. Because the tank is so small and wanted to salvage all the real estate I could. This type of overflow made the most sense. I can say that based on the noise from the overflow in the sump it probably isn't going to be noisy at all.

I picked up the black acrylic at a local plastic shop. I think I got it for around $16.00 a sheet (1.5'x 2.5').

[blooper74]

very well done. I like the clean design and ready available space you have at your disposal. Congrats, looks fantastic.

[DSparks]

Thanks for the kind words blooper.

[fishes2889]

cant wait and see what u r going to do next!!!

[supermarvin76]

Sparks....I too am in the early planning stages of a 20. I am think I am going to go with a 20 long though.

I am in the process of deciding about lights. I would like to have SPS.

I have been reading that with the correct T5 lighting that SPS is a realistic though. Some people are even saying that T5 is on par OR better than MH.

I am leaning HEAVILY towards T5 due to lower energy use, and lower temp they operate at.

Try some reserch before buying MH. Hope I didn't toss a wrench into your plans. :)

[Treehumps]

I have been doing a fair amount of research into lighting as would like to use LED's fro my own tank, Irrelevant here.. but i did come across one article that claimed mh were totally unnecesarry unless ur workin with a very deep (ie over 24") tank. Power compacts & T5's are comparable or better.. sorry i cant be more specific will try and track down the link and post it for you to read..

jmhi

[sidjam]

i love the shimmer metal halides give. you can't get that with any other lighting. plus i don't think we can ever come close to natural sunlight no matter what lighting we use.

dsparks, have you been to sandys? is it a good place to go? might be worth the trip if so.

[Treehumps]

i love the shimmer metal halides give. you can't get that with any other lighting. plus i don't think we can ever come close to natural sunlight no matter what lighting we use.


So its personal taste over the health and happiness of your stock?


http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm

This is the article i mention.. its fairly long but some interesting facts. ..

[DSparks]

Originally posted by sidjam
dsparks, have you been to sandys? is it a good place to go? might be worth the trip if so.

sid, I do enjoy going to Sandy's, but I haven't been overly impressed with the selection of corals. I've seen sun corals there withering away. Also there's this one guy who works there with a serious chip on his shoulder. Back when I was a newb he was short and rude with me on a couple of occasions. And when I mentioned what I read on the Internet he gave me the eye roll.

Next time your in Louisville you should try Aquatica. A much better selection of Corals that appear to be in better health. Not as much equipment for sale, but that's always cheaper online anyway.

[DSparks]

Treehumps, thanks for the link. I've been trying to find some good information on lighting to help me in my decision. I'll be checking it out.

supermarvin, I've been on the fence too. I've also read that T5's can be better than MH. I'd love to lose the heat of a MH. Keep me informed of what you do.

I'm off to read the thread Tree posted.

[sidjam]

So its personal taste over the health and happiness of your stock?

not at all. why would you say that?? many people use MH very successfully.


have been doing a fair amount of research into lighting as would like to use LED's fro my own tank, Irrelevant here.. but i did come across one article that claimed mh were totally unnecesarry unless ur workin with a very deep (ie over 24") tank. Power compacts & T5's are comparable or better.. sorry


your saying that power compacts are comparable or better than MH for sps?? i don't agree with that. you may be able to keep some sps alive, but they will not thrive and will probably brown out. i do agree that T5's can be a good alternative to MH's.

[cmondo]

i agree sidjam, it would take many PC's to even come close, and the penetration you get out of them is minimal compared to MH or T5's. And the number of lumens you get out of T5's and MH's is much greater.

[DSparks]

Agreed. So that leaves the decision to MH and T5's. I'm back and forth on this everyday. Today, I'm on the T5's. The low heat and bulb life are leaning me in that direction. THe noise of the fans in my hood drive my wife crazy. I will miss the shimmer, but not having to run a bunch of fans or a chiller is worth more to me.

Anyone have any experience with these?

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104061.html

Also, any thoughts on which bulbs? There was a great Q&A thread here, but I can't seem to find it.

[cmondo]

I have heard Icecap ballast and Tek Reflectors. I forget which bulbs i have heard, but i go back and try to find which ones.

[chocolateblnt]

DSparks ... have you heard of the new T8's comin' out ... :D a lot smaller in diameter than T5's! They should be awesome for smaller tanks in the future. It also means they have to be compressed with more gas in that smaller space for equal power to the T5's which consequently takes even less energy to keep lit and emits less heat! I know it doesn't help you immediately but I thought I'd share :P

As for your immediate dillema both MH's & T5's have advantages/disadvantages but what really stands out for me and put me over the fence is that intensely crisp light of a MH.

[sidjam]

hey, you got your aviator. i finally got 100 posts to get mine too.

[Opcn]

T8's are bigger in diameter than T5's, the T number refers directly to the diameter of the tube, although T8's and T12's come in VHO, whic is even more powerful than the HO T5's the larger diameter makes it impossible to fit as many into a hood.

[dlauver]

As far as I know T8's are NO bulbs.

Great tank... I'm enjoying the ride.

[cmondo]

By more powerful what do you mean by that? The number of watts coming out of the bulb? If so that doesn't really mattter as much as the quality of the light being produced, and how much is penetrating the surface of your tank. I have seen both T5's and VHO's on aquariums and you can see a big difference with the T5's.

chocolateblnt- your joking about the T8 diameter right?

[DSparks]

I have heard Icecap ballast and Tek Reflectors. I forget which bulbs i have heard, but i go back and try to find which ones.
I think I read somewhere that there isn't a need to overdrive the T5's with the icecap ballast on tanks less than 18" deep. Right now I'm planning on the setup in the link I posted above. I still need to figure out which bulbs though. Anyone know where there are some pics of T5 lighting using the different bulbs?

Great tank... I'm enjoying the ride.
Thanks dlauver! Glad your tagging along.


I'll be ordering my pump today (Mag 7 from ReefGeek). Once it comes in I can do my first water test! Stay tuned...

[chocolateblnt]

... from what I've heard the newly redesigned T8's are supposed to be smaller ... not the T8's out right now but the ones comin out in the near future. I know the T scale and the bigger the bulb number the bigger the diameter but my point was that the new ones are going to shift that scale.

[DSparks]

chocolate, where did you hear about the new T8's? I may not be buying lights for a little while so I am interested in learning more. Any links to information?

[ggenz]

I like the setup and approach your taking. Im planning on a 20h myself but need to gather the funds first. Thanks for the added inspiration

[DSparks]

Glad I can help you along ggenz. Just work on your setup a little at a time. I can tell you that putting together this tank has been much more rewarding than my 10G was. I rushed through it too fast. There is a lot I would have done differently. While I'm dying to get water in my new setup, I've avoided a lot of mistakes by pouring through RC threads before making decisions on how to do things.

[cmondo]

Yeah good choice DSparks on moving slow. Do you plan on doing the same thing with adding items once u get it running, so that you can get pod reproduction and correline first?

[Opcn]

Cute kid BTW DSparks andnice tank aswell

chocolateblnt

I think you got some misinformation, they can't shift the scale, its based on hard numbers, the T-12 is 3/2s times as big as the T-8 and the T-8 is 8/5ths the size of the T-5, if they were comeing out with something that was narrower than a T-5 they would call it maybe a T-4 or a T-3, it could be that they are shorter and higher watts but not narrower, it would be totally garbageing a very valueable measurement, like comeing out with a new and improved inch.

Could you find any information, maybe the person who told you this, because they need to be straightened out.

dlauver

Not all T-8's are NO's they make VHO's in T-8's and T-12's, The NO lamps and ballasts are different, but they use the same endcaps.

Edit: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/lighting/l/aa031300c.htm

[chocolateblnt]

Well I didn't say/mean change the scale, as you imply I said, I just said it would "shift" it one way or another upon the release of a newer improved T bulb, hence the word/definition of "shift" and not change... I'll try to get some more info on them from my local reefer.

[DSparks]

Yeah good choice DSparks on moving slow. Do you plan on doing the same thing with adding items once u get it running, so that you can get pod reproduction and correline first?

I do plan on moving slow once it's up and going. While I threw my 10G equipment together, I did add corals slowly. For instance, the first coral was added about 2 months after the tank started cycling. I may take it even slower with this tank since I'll be adding more sensative corals.

Cute kid BTW DSparks and nice tank as well

Thanks Opcn. I'm very proud of both of them ;)


I purchased a Mag 7 and some tubing from ReefGeek last night. I also bought some loc line from ModularHose.com. Hopefully both orders will be here by the weekend so that I can do my first water test. I think I'll start with the SCWD I already have and see how it turns out. If it looks promising I may hold off on the OM Squirt for a later date (hey, you always need a tank upgrade to look forward to). So if all my orders arrive, and I can get to Lowes for more plumbing parts, then I'll have some progress pics for you all this weekend.

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6672714#post6672714 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sidjam

your saying that power compacts are comparable or better than MH for sps?? i don't agree with that. you may be able to keep some sps alive, but they will not thrive and will probably brown out. i do agree that T5's can be a good alternative to MH's.


sid, I have also been studying up on T5's and I'm hearing from many sources that in a shallow tank (under 18") T5's are as good as MH. With the right setup you can grow just about any SPS. According to my research it's crucial that each bulb have an individual reflector, which boosts the amount of light going into the tank up to 300%.

Also, the T5 bulbs have a higher PAR rating. I can't say I understand exactly what that means, but it has to do with how much the light penetrates the water (i.e. how deep it can get).

They also generate a lot less heat. And you have the ability to easily mix bulb colors in a smaller setup like mine. With all of this in mind I've decided to go with the T5's. Honestly, I'll miss the shimmer effect. But I can live without it to avoid the simmer effect.

[sidjam]

i had thought about going with t5's myself. i already have a icecap 660 ballast that would have overdrove them nicely. yes i have read that they do work the best with seperate reflectors. heat can be an issue with MH and that is their only downside. so the T5's should work great for you.

[timschmidt]

Here is a pretty good site someone showed me. Hope it helps.

http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_nova.htm

[Cutiewitbooty]

Thought you might be interested in this. This tank is unbeleiveable and only has T5 lighting There is alot of good info about T5s and it really changed my mind about T5 lighting. :D

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=700454

I am also upgrading my 10 gal to a 20H and love the work you did with your tank. I wish i could do stuff like that, for now i am just aimlessly searching the web for somone who does custom RR tanks lol

[DSparks]

Welcome to the thread Amber!

Wow, awesome tank. Thanks for the link Amber. That's exactly what I needed to see to completely convince me to go with T5's. Absolutely amazing!

[Cutiewitbooty]

no problem, glad i could help :D

[The Reefist]

Nice set up!

[skabimini]

Nice... IMHO its a bit much for a 20... But very nice work :cool:

[sidjam]

Nice... IMHO its a bit much for a 20... But very nice work

why is it a bit much?? because its not 180 gal. tank? he has planned this out very well "IMHO".

[DSparks]

lol, thanks sid :)

ska, thanks for the compliment. I didn't take it as a slight, just opinion.

From the get go I wanted a tank where I can keep just about anything (keeping in mind the size of the tank). I figure why not "go overboard" if I have the ability and resources to do so. My fish and corals will thank me for it down the road.

[rjwilson37]

I think it is looking great, but I myself would put effort like that into a larger tank setup.

Then again... to maintain a larger tank is a lot more expensive, as well as what it costs to fill it with stuff, so this is a sweet little setup and will not cost a lot to get going and will probably be pretty darn sweet taking minimal space in the house.

[guntercb]

OK, I have to throw in my $.02 too.

I think Sparks is doing a jam up job. Keep it up!!! I think many people get hung up on larger tanks, but larger is alot more money. The difference in the cost of water and electricity alone is huge. I really love the overflow that Sparks built. It is a unique tank and one to be very proud of. Not to mention, I am using it as inspiration to possibly create a nano setup. I think some of the prettiest tanks are the small nanos.

Not to mention no matter if you have a small or large tank, you get out what you put into it. I think Spark's tank speaks volume. (Pune intended)

Keep us posted.

Cheers,
Chris

[Cutiewitbooty]

I love what he did with the tank too, i wish i could do stuff like that. I espically love his overflow and really want one lol I can't do anything even close to that, the only tools i own are a couple screw drivers and a hammer thats lost. I bet he could even do a small business making RR nanos, i know i would buy one lol. Great job and i can't wait to see what it looks like with water, BTW if you haven't noticed i'm, jealous :D

[DSparks]

Thanks for the kind words Gunter and Amber. I appreciate it. Like I said, I don't think ska or rj are meaning to be critical. I just take it as them sharing opinion which is what makes RC such a great place.

I do plan on having a very big tank when we move into our next house. Unfortunately, I don't have adequate space/power in our current home for a large tank. And I know that a skimmer and fuge and sump and <fill in the blank> is not necessary for a nano (I'm running my 10 gallon without any of these things). But like I said, I want to create the best possible environment for success. And it also gives me a chance to work with some of these systems before moving to a larger tank.

[CamBarr]

great tank love the comstom work keep it up

[Sprockett]

DS.....

Dude your rig rules :eek1:

My wife asked me the other day about putting one in our formal front room, it would sit between two windows but would not get direct sun. I measured it today out of curiosity and it's 37.5 wide, so I would put a whomper of a setup there, and if you don't mind I think I'll steal more than just a few ideas from your setup :)

I love the way you integrated everything and all the little touches, your woodworking skills look good too...

Great Job!! :D

[DSparks]

Paul, feel free to ask me anything about the setup. I'm happy to help and look forward to how your setup comes together.

Well, my pump and loc line hasn't arrived yet. If it doesn't come tomorrow then the weekend is a bust as far as the tank is concerned :(

[gwrulzmylife]

2 thumbs up! Nice nice nice!

[DSparks]

Hi folks. Time for a quick update...

First, here is what I'm using to lock the cabinet doors.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Child_Lock.jpg

They work really well. I'm installing them all over the house. They'll do a great job of keeping these little hands out of the sump and supplies.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Colton_1.jpg

[DSparks]

I bought all of the PVC for the plumbing on Friday. The stuff can really add up when you starting throwing ball valves and unions in the cart.

The Loc-Line arrived Saturday morning care of the United States Postal Service. Go to http://www.modularhose.com for all your Loc-Line needs. They have a great selection to choose from, and the prices are good.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/loc-line.jpg

The pump arrived on Saturday afternoon care of FedEx.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Mag7.jpg

I was expecting a slip fitting on the output for some reason. It ended up being a threaded connection (which makes more sense), so I had to go back to Lowes on Sunday afternoon for one threaded bushing that cost a whopping 24 cents.

So by the time I had everything I needed it was late Sunday afternoon. No water tests today :( I decided to go ahead and dry fit the plumbing and glue everything up.

It was snowing outside and really cold. Since I was no longer pressed for time I took it easy and built a warm and cozy fire.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Stove_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Stove_2.jpg

[DSparks]

At first things didn't go so well. It was pretty tight under there, even with all my planning ahead of time. Here you can see the return assembly laying to the side. The SCWD at top will feed the two returns into the tank. The fuge will be fed by the pipe extending to the right. The ball valve on the left will be used to make water changes easier.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Cluster.jpg

And finally, everything was dry fit in place. The main drain is the one coming towards the front. It'll have more pipe attached once I build a bubble trap. The backup drain is the one on the left. It emptys back into the return section of the pump. Hopefully I'll never get to see this one in action :)

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Plumbing_1.jpg

The SCWD is attached to the returns, which in turn have the Loc-Line plumbed into them. Don't worry, I'll come up with a nice way to mount the returns cleanly in place once I've water tested the setup and work out the kinks.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Plumbing_2.jpg

[DSparks]

That's as far as I was able to get today. Hopefully things will warm up a bit this week and I can finally get some water flowing.

I still need to get the clamps for the rubber tubing. Anyone know where I can get the plastic ones? Lowes evidently does not carry them, and I'd rather not wait on an on-line order.

[fishes2889]

nice keep us updated!!

[DSparks]

Time for an update. This afternoon I was finally able to peform a "dry" run of the system. Of course, with my luck lately, we had about 3 inches of snow today. The outside spigots were froze up, so I did what any dedicated reefer would do. I lugged 40 gallons of water to the garage, 10 gallons at a time.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/the_hard_way.jpg

After 4 very cold trips (our garage is detached) I had the tank and sump full and ready to go.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Leak_Test_1.jpg

I turned on the pump switch and much to my surprise there were no leaks. <insert big sigh of relief>

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Sump_View_2.jpg

[DSparks]

My next priority was to tune the Durso's. I have never run an overflow, so this was another area of concern. Had I built them right?

Well, at first I got the toilet flush effect, which I had expected. You can see the water line is almost to the bottom of the Durso's opening.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Durso_Tweak_1.jpg

I started with the smallest drill bit in the set and drilled a hole in the top of the end cap. I stepped my way up through the bit sizes. With each increase the length between the flushing decreased. Finally, at 3/16", the flushing stopped and the water level in the overflow leveled out.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Durso_Tweak_2.jpg

[DSparks]

So everything was going along great, that is until I realized the flow in the main tank was not very strong. I thought for sure the Mag 7 was more than enough, but I was wrong. While it could be enough flow for softies and LPS, I doubt I could keep any SPS.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Surface.jpg

So I guess I'll contact ReefGeek and see if I can exchange the Mag 7 for a Mag 9 (I'm not sure what their policy is). Surely another 200 GPH will get me to where I need to be??? AARRRGGGHHHH!!!

[DSparks]

And here are a few more pics...

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Leak_Test_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Sump_View_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Sump_View_3.jpg

[DSparks]

So overall I am very happy with how things went. I can see where my patience and planning are paying off. The Durso's work great, and the overflow will be enough to handle the flow I'm wanting to put through it. The plumbing is a little tight, but I'll be able to manage that easy enough. Once I get the next size pump I can consider this phase of the project complete.

Next steps...build a bubble trap for the return, re-install the doors and install the child safety locks.

[sidjam]

i had a mag12 on a SCWD with 3/4 tubing on my 75 and i was never satisfied with it. the SCWD reduces the flow considerably on the mags. i took off the SCWD and replaced the the mag12 with a mag7 and ran 1" tubing and the flow is just as good if not better than the mag12 with the SCWD.

[DSparks]

Thanks for the info sid. I may try to hook it up without a SCWD to see what the difference is like. I had considered an OM Squirt. Since they are driven by a motor and not the water flow then maybe that is the smarter way to go.

[Cutiewitbooty]

Looking good!!!! We used to have a wood stove too before we moved south, they are so cozy :p What kind of lighting do you have over the tank? You might have posted it before, but i don't remember. I just got myself a new tank, it has the same foot print as your's. but it's 20" high. And i just bought a coralife metal halide/PC setup :D

[DSparks]

Amber, wood stoves are the way to go for cheap garage heating. I love the sound of the wood fire popping and crackling.

I've about decided on a 150W MH. I'll probably go with a PFO Mini Pendant. Not sure about a bulb yet. Then I'll supplement actinics with either T5's or PC's.

[Mikeeal]

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Durso_Tweak_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Durso_Tweak_2.jpg

Please enjoy pictures like these as much as you can, it's the cleanest it's ever gonna look.

Seriously, I've been lurking your setup, and I must say, it's really beautiful. All of it. You definitely did your research and planning and it shows. I'm really impressed with the quality of all the work you've done. I can't wait to see it stocked.

[DSparks]

Thanks Mike!

Do you have any experience with external overflows? Any links to posts or pics?

[Mikeeal]

Well, sorta. My 20 I'm working on has one, but only to a fuge on the back. The thread is titled, "Mikeeal's 20, if you'd like to check it out. I used a small RO valve for the tee fitting. I will use an external overflow on my next, larger tank too. Those pics of yours I pasted, I just really like ones like these, because everything is brand new, and just looks really clean, plus I like PVC.:D

[rjwilson37]

Awesome, just simply awesome fellow reefer!

[navyav8tr]

I have been hitch hiking on this thread and I must say this is really an impressive setup. I wasn't sure if you had decided on what lighting to use on this bad boy yet. I am setting up something similar, a 30G cube with external overflow, and if you were going to do MH I was wondering if you had decided how to handle the heat.
Awesome setup.

[sidjam]

i'm going with the OM squirt on a panworld 50px-x to handle my flow on the 29.

how's the noise on the external overflow? any coming from the tank into the box?

[DSparks]

Awesome, just simply awesome fellow reefer!
Thanks RJ!


and if you were going to do MH I was wondering if you had decided how to handle the heat.
I'm going to install a fan or two in the canopy and probably one in the cabinet to help with evap. I'm hoping that alone with handle any temp problems. My 10G has a 70W MH and with one fan it hovers around 80.


how's the noise on the external overflow? any coming from the tank into the box?
It was surprisingly quiet. Once I had the Durso dialed in the only noise was coming from the pump, and I think I can fix that once I install padding between the sump and cabinet.. I haven't run the Urchin skimmer yet. I'm hoping it's quiet also. Then the only thing I'll need to worry about is the fans in the hood. The wife wants this setup to run very quiet since it's in our main living area of the house.

[navyav8tr]

Do you think you will go with Icecap fans? I have heard they are pretty quiet but not sure if there was something else out there.

[DSparks]

I'm not sure navy. They are fairly expensive. You can get fans much cheaper from computer building sites that are advertised as quiet fans. The icecaps do have the sensor that will control the speed according to the surrounding temp. And I've read that they are built to last in the harsh saltwater environment. I'll have to do some digging on the boards to see if that proves to be true.

[DSparks]

Due to some major car troubles this morning I was able to spend the day at home with the family. I was also FINALLY able to bring the setup into the house :)

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/in_house_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/in_house_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/in_house_3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/in_house_4.jpg

[DSparks]

In case you're interested, here's a few pics of how the child safety locks work. In order to open the door you have to use the magnetic key from the outside. Very clever!

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/child_lock_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/child_lock_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/child_lock_3.jpg

[sidjam]

lookin good!

[Chelsey]

VERY nice! :) I too have been lurking and I'm ready to see some livestock in that thing! :)

[fishes2889]

Livestock!! Livestock!! looking good sparks!!

[DSparks]

Thanks Sid, Chelsey and Fishes. Trust me, it's killing me not to kick it into gear and get wet. Unfortunately Turbo Tax tells me I need to write a big check this year :(

I'm only lacking a heater and lighting. Maybe in another month or two I'll have what I need to get started. You know what they say, patience is a virtue...

I'm planning more updates tonight. Nothing major, but some neat DIY to overcome a problem I had been struggling with. Stay tuned...

[DarkXerox]

That setup is killer! Cant wait to see this monster working

[Cutiewitbooty]

that is awesome looking, it has really come along. Hopefully you can get some water in it soon :D We already did our taxes :D We actually got a efund, but i had my husband claim 0 dependants so that we wouldn't owe. I would rather them take extra money out of our pay checks then own a big lump sum at the end of the year. Well good luck though!!! :D

[DSparks]

I almost would rather pay out at tax time. That way I know that the government didn't get any extra interest off my money. It also keeps me focused on getting people in office who will allow me to keep more of the money that I work so hard for. But I digress, that conversation is for a different forum...

[DSparks]

Another quick update...

I've been trying to come up with a way to hold the return pipes without permanently installing them in the cabinet. Today I found this little contraption at Lowes. It's meant to hold mops, brooms, rakes, etc. I thought it would be perfect for the 3/4" PVC returns.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_2.jpg

[DSparks]

There are five clips running along the mounting bar. A little work with a dremel, grinder and drill press and I was able to make five individual clips.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_4.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_5.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_6.jpg

[DSparks]

Here they are installed and in use. I think I'll have to lower them a bit in order to get the Loc-Line into the right position.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_7.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_8.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Clip_9.jpg

[DSparks]

I also found some really cheap mouse pads that were perfect for padding between the sump and cabinet. They'll help with any un-even weight distribution as well as cancelling out some noise.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Pad_1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Pad_2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Pad_3.jpg

[DSparks]

And finally, I picked up this Coralife Digital Thermometer on sale at PetSmart.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/Sump_Pad_4.jpg

[baj]

Awesome setup and great planning, wish you good luck. I am making a list of all the things you found at lowe's... :)

[Lures and Jigs]

Looks great, I can't wait to see that thing in action!

[calvin415]

FYI, I've read numerous stories of mouse pads leaking chemicals into a tank (glue between the neoprene and the surface material). No big deal under the sump, but I wouldn't put one in the sump. If you really want to get a neoprene pad try to find a used wet suit or pure neoprene material instead of a mousepad. Or you could just use some thick silicone feet on the pump.

[maxxII]

I'm with Calvin with regards to the mouse pad inside the sump. If you're seriously concerned with vibration from the Mag pump, float it. Just cut the return plumbing from it a little short so it actually doesnt make contact with the sump, and is instead held in place by the plumbing.

Nick

[DSparks]

Hey guys, thanks for the info. Evidently Ive been given bad information about the mousepads. I doubt I'll need them anyway with the padding between the sump and stand. I just had some left over and thought "Why not?". Now I know why not :)

[maxxII]

Its cheaper to learn from someone else's mistakes....

:D


Nick

[BullDZR]

How about some updated Pics

[Henry22]

Tank looks really good, and your a fellow Kentuckian

[CamBarr]

any updated shots??

[Zero-2-Sixty]

looks amazing, i demand updates! :-D

[Billy1234]

Me too! :D

[jfw60]

well planed design

[Milleme]

dude when i started reading and saw that you were going to go with a mag5 or 7 I was gonna suggest a bigger pump but it was already page 7..... anyways awseome setup! Do you have fish plans yet?

[DSparks]

Thanks for the replies. I've haven't been working this setup very much at all lately. I've been planning on getting back into it soon though. Once I buy my lights I'll be ready to go.

[alien9168]

This project is awsome and i think your planning has really payed off...

It is rare to find a nano that looks as clean as this tank does... I know my tanks dont look as put together as yours...

post some pics of it stocked no dobt it will be awsome!!! :)

:thumbsup:

[DSparks]

Hey everybody. It's been a while so I thought I'd drop in and say hi. Big changes at work have kept me away from the tank for many months. The good news is that things are settling down and I can get back to work on finishing the setup.

I'm working two things right now...

1) Aquascaping - I picked up some epoxy from the pet store today so that I can start putting together my rock structures. I'm using the rock from a 10 gallon that I took down about 6 months ago. The rock has been sitting dry in a plastic container the whole time. I had this horribly annoying macroalgae that I'm hoping has all died out by now. Logic would say it has, but this stuff was super-powered. Anyway, I've laid the rock out and worked up a few possibilities. I'm leaning towards have two separate structures with an open area between. I'll have pics to post later on.

2) Lighting - This really is my final major expense (that's not alive anyway). I've just about decided on the PFO Mini Pendant with
an IceCap electronic ballast and a 150W 14k Phoenix bulb. I should be placing the order after the first of the month.

That's about all for now. I'm extremely excited to be back. Look for pics of the rock-scaping later in the week.

[DSparks]

The kiddo went to bed a little early tonight so I went ahead and built some rock structures. The pictures aren't so great. All in all I'm happy with how they turned out. Let me know your thoughts...

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Pre-Structure 1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Structure 1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Structure 2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Both Structures.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/Structures In Tank.jpg

[Palmettopark]

Great thread! Do you ever think to your self "shoulda gone bigger?" You got this down for sure. Best of luck brother lookin good!

[DSparks]

I sometimes wish I would have gone with a 29. I'm trying to keep the setups "portable" so that they are easy to move when we do.

The big tank comes when we move into our next house (hopefully within the next couple of years). I'm wanting to do a very large in-wall setup then. Maybe 300 to 400 gallons in an "L" shape with a fish room.

[CamBarr]

looking good now lets get the water in it

[guntercb]

Sparks,

Thanks for the update. 300 - 400 gallon in the wall set up when you move???? Yikes, that would be awesome.

I love your 20. Keep us posted.

I think you are going to like your decision with the 150W MH.

Good luck,
Chris

[DSparks]

Time for a quick update...

I purchased my lighting. It should arrive sometime this week. I ended up going with the PFO Mini Pendant, 150W IceCap Electronic Ballast, and 14K Phoenix builb. If all goes well then by this time next week I'll have lights in place. I'll post pics once the lighting arrives.

I've also been working on a little filter media tray that attaches to the Urchin skimmer output. It's not pretty, but should get the job done. Here's several pics showing how the project went.


http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox4.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox5.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/carbonbox6.jpg

[2639]

Tagging along :D Nice progress!!

[julioperez01]

great looking set up so far congrats

[mlblover126]

just a bumb so i tag along!!!!!

[tcmfish]

awesome work! keep the pics coming

[Rivenjim]

i would get those ice cap fans if i were worried about noise. they are a life saver in my house. also great progress on this system you have motivated me to duplicate this design. keep up the great work

[DSparks]

Thanks for the motivation peeps!

I'm still waiting on the lighting to show up. The Ice Cap ballast is backordered. Looks like it'll take longer than I thought :(

I may go ahead and get the tank cycling though. No need for lights there...

[DSparks]

Progress Update...

I'm finally wet!!! I picked up some aragonite oolite and Oceanic salt today. This evening I filled up the tank and added the sand. I'm waiting to add the salt until after I get the plumbing kinks worked out. I think all I need to do is make the holes in my Durso's a bit larger. It's getting late, so I'll pick up where I left off tomorrow.

A few pics...

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/gettingwet1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/gettingwet3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/gettingwet2.jpg

[CamBarr]

yess we have water .
looks great

[speedsport]

That is the best 20g I have looked at. It is amazing.

[BullDZR]

DS,

Hope you don't mind but I am going to incorperate alot of your cabinet design into my up and coming 20G Long work tank.

Your design is very clean and you deserve great recognition for your accomplishment's with this tank so far. Thanks for all the detailed photo's. Once I post my thread on my tank to come, I will give you the recognition for the stand design.

Wayne

[DSparks]

Thanks for the encouragement Cam/Speed/Wayne.

Wayne, feel free to borrow whatever ideas you like. That's what RC is all about. Hopefully you can build on what I've done and create an even better design. Drop me a PM once you start your thread. I'm looking forward to following along.

[DSparks]

Well, the day ended slightly better than it began. Here's how things unfolded...

When I went to bed last night I was having trouble with my standpipe. It wasn't keeping up with the flow, which caused the secondary Durso to kick in. I was hoping that by enlarging the hole in the cap I could get more volume through the drain. Didn't work (duh). I finally realized that I had more flow than the single 1" could keep up with. Plans had to change. The second Durso is now in full operation. I lowered it to be even with the first Durso so that the two share the flow equally.

Next, I added salt to the system. This made the Urchin skimmer kick into high gear. It's creating very big bubbled wet foam. This is my first experience with a skimmer, so I'm not really sure what to expect. Is this normal? I'm having to empty the cup every few hours.

I'm also battling "THE GURGLE". I thought that the Durso's were supposed to handle this, and to a great degree they are. However, I've read about others who have whisper quiet setups. Is there anyone out there who has successfully beaten this problem? The wife sure would appreciate some help on this one ;)

Here's the Durso's in full action...

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/gettingwet4.jpg

[DSparks]

Here's a couple pics of the foam. I may not have enough salt in the water. I've lost my hydrometer, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow before I can check my specific gravity.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/skimmerhelp1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/skimmerhelp2.jpg

[lingwendil]

Awesome work! Sucks about the gurgle though... Maybe put some areline tubing down the holes in the dursos, with a little venturi valve to control the noise? It'd keep you from drilling more holes. BTW, did you decide on T5 or PC for actinics?

[DSparks]

Ling, I'm still up in the air on T5's or PC's. I went with a 14K bulb so that I'd have plenty of time to decide. T5's appear to be the better of the two options, but I'm afraid they will give me too much light when combined with the 150 DE MH. What's your thoughts?

Hey, thanks for reminding me about the airline tubing. I remember reading something about that a while ago. When you say venturi valve, do you mean those little plastic green ones that are used to control airflow in conjuction with airline tubing?

[roushboy2857]

wow

[guntercb]

DSparks,

I don't know about T-5s but I have PC and I don't like the actnics of my PCs. I would try the T-5s. As to too much light I think that is almost impossible.

I still love your setup.

Good luck,
Chris

[hmpit_ags2006]

DSparks, what is that 90 degree elbow sticking out of the top of your Urchin skimmer? I have an old one and just wondering what it is.

Thanks,
-G

[DSparks]

It's a drain valve. You can plumb it to a larger container that's holds more skimmate. Not sure if I'll end up using it yet, but I wanted the option so I went ahead and purchased the option.

Still planning on picking up some airline tubing and valves to battle the gurgle. Maybe I can get to the pet shop today at lunch. Also, the IceCap ballast is not due in until the third week of November. Guess I'll have to put my patience cap back on <sigh>.

[TheUltimateNoob]

very very nice. with all that you've put into this, i suggest you ditch the hydrometer and get a refractometer.

tagging along.

[banditfl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8487775#post8487775 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks
Ling, I'm still up in the air on T5's or PC's. I went with a 14K bulb so that I'd have plenty of time to decide. T5's appear to be the better of the two options, but I'm afraid they will give me too much light when combined with the 150 DE MH. What's your thoughts?

Hey, thanks for reminding me about the airline tubing. I remember reading something about that a while ago. When you say venturi valve, do you mean those little plastic green ones that are used to control airflow in conjuction with airline tubing?

I just converted to full t-5's on my 75g and extremely please so far. Other than the great output, the color spectrims available are so varied you get almost any lighting color temp you want. There are multiple thread concerning t-5's but the most extensive is this one http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=679852&perpage=25&pagenumber=1 . the link is for the first page. But the thread has been split 3 times and has been going about a year.

If you are planning on supplementing your Metal Halide you could add 1-2 t-5's with reflectors. Since you are using 14k lamp go with 1 or 2 UVL Super Actinic.

[banditfl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8486041#post8486041 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks


I'm also battling "THE GURGLE". I thought that the Durso's were supposed to handle this, and to a great degree they are. However, I've read about others who have whisper quiet setups. Is there anyone out there who has successfully beaten this problem? The wife sure would appreciate some help on this one ;)



I noticed you have 2 durso standpipes at different levels. What is happening is you exceeding the maximum quiet flow (overloading the pipe) on the first pipe before the second pipe begins to flow. I have had same gurgle effect when I add water to fast or both arms in the tank quickly raising the amount of water over the overflow. Try both your standpipes at the same height and it should quiet down. It will also take a couple of months for the pipework to slime up and then it will be silent.

Good Luck

[DSparks]

Thanks for the feedback Bandit. I've been through some of that T5 thread, but honestly it was a bit overwhelming with so many posts. I may start at the end and work backwards into it for more recent information. If I decide to add supplement lighting then I'll likely go with the T5's. Do you think that the super actinics combined with the 14K will become too blue?

You are correct about the maximum flow. I did lower the second durso and things become much more quiet. I'm still getting enough gurgling to bother the wife. Other's have mentioned trying the airline tubing trick. I'm going to give that a shot within the next few days to see if it fixes my problem. Keep your fingers crossed.

[norcal99]

What exactly is this airline tube trick? I'm guessing you just slip airline tubing down the drain piping?

[DSparks]

That's what I've read about others doing. I'm going to give it a shot to see what happens. It can't get worse, that's for sure...

Other bad news. The humidity has caused my hood to split open at two joints.

:( :( :(

Two steps forward, two steps back. Doh!!!

[BullDZR]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8500086#post8500086 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks
That's what I've read about others doing. I'm going to give it a shot to see what happens. It can't get worse, that's for sure...

Other bad news. The humidity has caused my hood to split open at two joints.

:( :( :(

Two steps forward, two steps back. Doh!!!

Sorry to hear it, I will keep that in mind when I build mine, definetly going to include some fans in the back of it...

[cmondo]

I have been watching this thread for a while, and I am glad to see water in the tank finally.

Some suggestions on quieting the durso is adjusting the depth which the drain pipe is at. I find that if the pipe goes well beneath the sump water level the noise is much louder. Try having it empty right above the water line. Also I found that when I put a filter sock on the drain the noise level went down too.

Good luck with the tank and let me know how that Oceanic salt works out for you I know a lot of people have had problems with it especially with the calcium levels.

Chris

[CoralFiend]

Just ran across this tonight. Very nice job. Having been through a similar build for a tank of less that 8 gallons, I for one don't think you have wasted your time with such a small system. I have really enjoyed my nano. I have a 140 that is almost complete, but this little tank seems to get most of my attention. My other reefer friends think I am crazy.

As far as the lighting situation goes, I would also recommend going with the T5s. The T5 actinic bulbs blow the PCs out of the water. There was a major difference in the appearance of my corals under the T5s.

Also, I'm not sure if anyone else mentioned this, I might have missed it, but the SCWD is most likely causing some of your low flow problems. Although I currently have a SCWD on my nano, I will be removing it soon. This is the second one that has gone bad in six months. If you want to have something reliable and with less restriction on your water flow, take a look at the OceansMotions SuperSquirt Compact. Ok, it costs $225 but since I have two of the OM products, I can tell you they are worth every penny - even on that small system.

SuperSquirt Compact-$225 (http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=39&osCsid=bb12b12a80f4eb0987bcfe243e0d7ca1)
OM Squirt 2-Way - $165 (http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=37&osCsid=bb12b12a80f4eb0987bcfe243e0d7ca1)

I'll be tagging along on this one...

[dogstar74]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8494952#post8494952 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks
It's a drain valve. You can plumb it to a larger container that's holds more skimmate. Not sure if I'll end up using it yet, but I wanted the option so I went ahead and purchased the option.
<sigh>.

I would really discourage this! I had a skimmate collection cup overflow all night one night, I estimated 5 gallons. Just because my skimmer wasn't fine tuned. If you're in-sump skimmer overflows, then it's just dumping the skimmate back into the sump. Kinda like ashes to ashes. But if you're skimmer decides to go crazy at 3 in the morning and overflows the collection cup, then it's a disaster. I'll never have a collection cup outside my sump again.

[banditfl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8496705#post8496705 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSparks
Thanks for the feedback Bandit. I've been through some of that T5 thread, but honestly it was a bit overwhelming with so many posts. I may start at the end and work backwards into it for more recent information. If I decide to add supplement lighting then I'll likely go with the T5's. Do you think that the super actinics combined with the 14K will become too blue?


The UVL Super Actinic is more of a Purple color and really makes the green and orange/red colors pop. Also the output is not as visible as would the ATI Blue +. And does not affect the overall color as much, but really brings out the fluorescants in the corals. And looks really cool all by itself.

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8500254#post8500254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cmondo
I have been watching this thread for a while, and I am glad to see water in the tank finally.

Some suggestions on quieting the durso is adjusting the depth which the drain pipe is at. I find that if the pipe goes well beneath the sump water level the noise is much louder. Try having it empty right above the water line. Also I found that when I put a filter sock on the drain the noise level went down too.

Good luck with the tank and let me know how that Oceanic salt works out for you I know a lot of people have had problems with it especially with the calcium levels.

Chris

Thanks for the advice Chris! I'll did shorten the length of the drain pipe and I also enlarged the air hole just slightly. These two things combined have helped. I'm still shooting for "whisper quiet", so I think I'll also take your advice on the filter sock. I'll have to pick a few up tomorrow.

I've heard both good and bad about the Oceanic salt. I'll keep you posted.

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8500584#post8500584 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoralFiend
Also, I'm not sure if anyone else mentioned this, I might have missed it, but the SCWD is most likely causing some of your low flow problems. Although I currently have a SCWD on my nano, I will be removing it soon. This is the second one that has gone bad in six months. If you want to have something reliable and with less restriction on your water flow, take a look at the OceansMotions SuperSquirt Compact. Ok, it costs $225 but since I have two of the OM products, I can tell you they are worth every penny - even on that small system.

SuperSquirt Compact-$225 (http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=39&osCsid=bb12b12a80f4eb0987bcfe243e0d7ca1)
OM Squirt 2-Way - $165 (http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=37&osCsid=bb12b12a80f4eb0987bcfe243e0d7ca1)

I'll be tagging along on this one...


I've debated going with an OM unit. I probably would have if I didn't have two brand new SCWD's sitting in a box. They sent me two replacements when my first one sprung a leak. The flow isn't all that bad now that I've upgraded to the Mag 9. Buy hey, maybe I can ask Santa for one for an OM unit for Christmas :)

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8501437#post8501437 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
I would really discourage this! I had a skimmate collection cup overflow all night one night, I estimated 5 gallons. Just because my skimmer wasn't fine tuned. If you're in-sump skimmer overflows, then it's just dumping the skimmate back into the sump. Kinda like ashes to ashes. But if you're skimmer decides to go crazy at 3 in the morning and overflows the collection cup, then it's a disaster. I'll never have a collection cup outside my sump again.

Wowzers...don't want that happening. I don't know that I'll have room for a separate cup in this setup. I wanted the option available to me, but now that I have everything going I just don't see how I could get it all to fit.

So do the skimmers operate that inconsistantly? Like I said, first time running a skimmer so it's all new to me.

BTW, do you guys and gals run your skimmers full time, or do you cycle them on timers?

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8502168#post8502168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by banditfl
The UVL Super Actinic is more of a Purple color and really makes the green and orange/red colors pop. Also the output is not as visible as would the ATI Blue +. And does not affect the overall color as much, but really brings out the fluorescants in the corals. And looks really cool all by itself.

Great info Bandit. Thanks. Have any pics?

[purebullet417]

beautiful tank you gave me alot of ideas to use when i set up my 29 especily in the stand and external overflow i was figuring out how to do both of those the exact way you did for so long

[DSparks]

Thanks for the compliment purebullet. Hopefully you can build on what I've done and come up with something even better.

Gurgle Update! I monkey'ed around with variations on airline tubing tricks to quiet the gurgle. Turns out the best results came from simply letting about a foot of airline hang free from the Duros. No valves or anything. One important thing to note. If I pushed the tubing too far into the durso the the toilet flushing effect would kick in. The key was having the airline just barely inserterd into the Durso.

Here's a couple pics. The water is cloudy from me purposefully stirring it up.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/GurgleFix1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20GSetup/GurgleFix2.jpg

[purebullet417]

good to see u figured that out how to quite it and a free bump

[bcoons]

I don't have a Durso setup myself, but for what it's worth, I have read that you should let them run noisy for a couple of weeks with the normal salt water before you try to "tune" them. The reason being that after a couple of weeks a layer of "slime" builds up on the insides of the PVC pipe that slightly changes its flow characteristics and the "tuning" will change. Most people found that if they drilled the right size hole in the top of the Durso to quiet it with fresh water, or even new salt water, it would change after several weeks and they had to go back to another cap with a smaller hole.

Again, I'm no expert, just been studying and reading up in anticipation of building my own ultimate tank.

[CPT. MURPHY]

Looking good!

CPT.

[GSMguy]

sweet

[DSparks]

Thanks Cap'n!

Bcoons, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I've already had to make two adjustements since last night. I think I'll relax a bit and tackle it in a month or two.

This afternoon I worked a bit on the plumbing and also began working on a way to mount my PFO Mini Pendant. First I dis-assembled the hood and stand so that I could easily get to the drain pipes. This was the first time I was able see the benefit of my design. Pretty cool!!!

My camera makes the stand look orange for some reason.

setuphttp://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PlumbingMaint1.jpg

setuphttp://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PlumbingMaint2.jpg

setuphttp://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PlumbingMaint3.jpg

[DSparks]

Once I finished up with the plumbing I started working on the pendant. The pendant ships with two little eye bolts that can be used to hang the pendant. Since mine is going to be fixed to the hood I had to come up with something different.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount4.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount5.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount6.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PfoMount7.jpg

I still have to paint the wood and come up with a way to get the big ole connector and cord out through the hood. I'm thinking of just routing a slot. We'll see.

See anything that might cause trouble? Let me know your thoughts.

[bcoons]

I gotta say this is one nice, clean, well-engineered system. The kind os stuff I love. Keep up the good work and I am tagging along and stealing ideas! :)

[DSparks]

Thanks B'. Hopefully you can improve on what I've done. Be sure to keep me in the loop. Shoot me a PM with a link once you start your thread :)

[bcoons]

Even with some paint on those wood slats they might swell just a little in that humid atmosphere. I think I would leave just a little bit of tolerance (aka "slop" :) ) in between those slats of wood before tightening them down so they don't buckle.

Having said that, you have a nice mounting setup. It allows the light fixture to be snug up against the top of the canopy, easily removable for maintenance, and no visible screws through the top. Nice.

[nanokeeper]

Hey DSparks. Beautiful tank. Here is a thread on how to make a completely quiet overflow.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=344892

I used it on a 90 gallon for about a year and it worked perfectly. Since you have two overflows you could set it up very easily.

[DSparks]

Thanks for the link nanokeeper. I'll check it out here shortly.

[alien9168]

nice job mounting that pendant :)
What bulb did you say you were puting in it?...if you said already?

Thanks...this system is great and exciting to follow! :)

[DSparks]

It's a 14k Phoenix 150 Watt. I'm powering it with an Ice Cap ballast (if it ever gets here). I took a chance on the bulb color because I've never seen a 14k up close and personal. However, I've heard a lot of good things about this bulb.

The tank is really starting to clear up. I'm mixing up the sand every evening to keep the dust suspended so that the skimmer can do it's thing.

[dogstar74]

I would try to mount the lights without using wood directly attached to the top of the fixture. If they developed the fixture with clearance in mind, then it may get too hot to put a combustable material that close to the metal fixture housing. Could you somehow hang the pendant from the cabinet with only a single link of chain or something to allow the passage of air between the light fixture and the wood? I know I would sleep better at work knowing it was not in direct contact with the wood. Just my .02

[CoralFiend]

FWIW, I was thinking the same thing. At least some sort of non-combustible insulator in between the top of the fixture and the wood. If I am not mistaken, at least some of the manufacturers of these pendents advise against using them inside of a canopy.

Another thing I would highly recommend is putting some good sized fans (like 4") on opposite ends of the canopy. One blowing fresh air in and the one on the opposite side blowing air out of the canopy. Doing it this way will give you the best ventilation to disperse the heat.

[DSparks]

Nanokeeper, thank you so much for the link. That looks like a great way to silence both the sump and overflow noise using a very simple approach. I'm definitely going to give it a try. I'll post some pics showing progress and comments on how it works once I have it in place.

Dog/Coral, thanks for the advice. I have considered this, but really don't think it will be an issue. I had a 70W Halide mounted directly to the wood inside of an enclosed hood. It did get warm, but never enough to cause me concern. I'm almost positive that PFO says that these pendants can be installed inside of hoods. I remember specifically checking into that. However, I looked at A LOT of pendants, and I've been wrong before so I better go double check ;)

I am planning a couple Ice Cap fans, which should help to pull out a lot of the heat. In the end there's only one way to know. I'll run it for a bit and keep a close eye. If it gets too hot then I'll have to switch to over to using something like aluminum bar.

[gab24m3]

Great work DSparks! I also think you should be safe with the Ice Cap fans these puppies work great. There shouldn't be an issue once there installed. Keep us posted.

[Krudco]

nice set up.
looking forword to seeing it stocked.

[MikeTaurean]

Really nice! I'm setting up a 20H also but not nearly as nice and creative as yours. Don't have that type of money or resources. Massachusettes doesn't have anything good. I shall tag along and get some ideas from you for my tank. Just kinda borrow them..... then running off into the distance. *cough cough* Anyway, go on.

[999sterling]

I just found this thread today. Very cool setup. I'll be following along. This has even got me considering buiding a nano-reef. It might be just what I need for my sanity until I can start my big tank.

[DSparks]

gab24m3, do you run Ice Cap fans? How many are you running?

Mike, if you are willing to roll up your sleeves then most of what I've done can be accomplished fairly cheap. For instance, paint the stand and you can use MDF. Go with an American DJ power panel and save yourself the cost of all the electrical stuff. I say go for it man. It makes the hobby so much more fun.

Sterling, let us know if you decide to take the plunge and throw a link our way if you start your own thread.

[DSparks]

Time for a quick update...

Here's a pic of the tank now that the dust has settled.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/TankShot112006.jpg

Also, I implemented the method for silencing the drain found in the link that NanoKeeper posted above. It worked like a charm. Basically, you install a ball or gate valve in the drain and throttle back the flow. This causes the water level to rise above the standpipe and no air enters the drain. This keeps both the overflow and drain in the sump dead quiet. Amazing. It's important that you ONLY do this if you have a backup drain pipe installed. Check out these pics and the link above for a better understanding of how it works.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/SilentDrain1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/SilentDrain2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/SilentDrain3.jpg

[hammer294]

looking good...

So did you completly take off the top of the durso's for good? Or was that just for the picture?

[DSparks]

They are gone. What you see is how it's running. There's no longer a need for Durso or Stockman style standpipes. I checked it late last night and so far it's working great.

[999sterling]

I was just looking at the pics of the new valve. Does it still allow your media tray to be installed on your skimmer output? It looks like it might be in the way.

I like the apparent operation of this system. I'm guessing that if the second standpipe ever becomes active you would get the "flushing" noise, thus alerting you to a problem automaticaly?! I'm insterested to know if my guess is correct. Have you tryed "clogging" the short pipe to see what happens?

[gab24m3]

I have pfo pendants with icecap fans built in... there is a huge difference with them on and off. If you put two fans on each side of your canopy to circulate the air i'm almost sure you'll have no issues.

[DSparks]

Sterling, you are correct. The secondary pipe drains above the sump. This gives me the flushing noise at the overflow and splashing at the sump. Basically it's a built in alarm. I have tested a failure. The secondary pipe handles it easily since it is not throttled back in any way.

BTW, you are very observant. The valve is going to cause me problems with the media tray. It's just too tight of a fit. I'll have to either mod the tray, or come up with an alternative method for handling filter media.


Gab, thanks for the feedback. I'm glad to head that they make that much of a difference. Do you by chance know anywhere to get them at a bargain? They are pricey, but well worth it from what I've read.

[gab24m3]

This is the cheapest I've seen them at.... $42 compared to $56.
http://www.petstore.com/ps_ViewItem-idProduct-IC5113.html

[CoralFiend]

You might want to look at these. They are 4.7" A/C ball bearing fans that put out 85cfm at 2750RPM (the ones I use) at 13 watts and are rated at 45db sound level, which is comparable to the IceCaps - but they cost $13.50. I have used these for a few years and they hold up well. These are metal frame fans. You can get them in 3100RPM also, but they start to get a little louder.

It also lists the finger guards, grilles and air filters that go with them. This is a little extra, but only a few dollars.

Orion A/C fans (http://www.arcade-electronics.com/detail.aspx?ID=21307)

[akbuuur]

you plan better than an architect

VERY GOOD STUFF!

[Ocean In A Box]

Everything looking so great on this...have been tagging along since page 1. ;)
Keep it up!!
Matt

[DSparks]

Looks like a few posts were wiped out somehow :(

To summarize, I received my IceCap ballast yesterday. Today I picked up some stuff from Radio Shack to build a ballast box. Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have my lighting put together and ready to go.

My website is down, so my pictures aren't linking correctly. Hopefully that won't last too long. I may need to move the pics somewhere else anyway...

[purebullet417]

any updates on this tank o and btw check out my thread on my uncles 125 http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=975846

[DSparks]

Nice rockwork on that 125 Pure...

I was finally able to put together my lighting today. It wasn't the smoothest operation (can someone say "first time soldering"?), but in the end everything came together. I have pics, but my website will probably be down until late tomorrow, so I'll wait and post all the details then.

Do you guys and gals think that having aluminum in my hood (not near the water) will be any big deal? I'm trying to rig up something a little nicer to support my lighting.

[purebullet417]

thanks yours is nice to cant wait to see some updated pics though

[BLKTANG]

none of the pics r working 4 me.

[2639]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8581482#post8581482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EXPEDITION
none of the pics r working 4 me.

They're not working any more for me either.

[DSparks]

Sorry for the pics. They are hosted at my website, which is currently down. I'm expecting it to be back up later today.

[DSparks]

My website is back up, and I've re-uploaded the pics that were somehow lost. We're back in business. :D

The last few days have been great as far as tank progress goes. I've changed directions on the mounting plans for the pendant, finished building a custom ballast box, and installed the lighting.

[DSparks]

PFO sells a ballast box that can be used to hook up thier pendants to Ice Cap ballasts. AFter looking at a few pics I realized that this could easily be replicated for less than half the cost.

I picked up a 8" x 6" x 3" project box and a lighted toggle switch at Radio Shack. I also purchased a soldering gun/kit from Lowes (it runs on butane, which is pretty cool). The rest can be best explained by the pics below...

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/BallastBox1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/BallastBox2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/BallastBox3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/BallastBox4.jpg

I'm very pleased with the results. The ballast box being sold at Marine Depot runs $40. This one cost me just over $20.

I'm keeping an eye on the tempurature. So far it hasn't been a problem, but I haven't had it running for more than an hour at a time. I'll keep you posted on how it works out.

BTW, my first time soldering. It was much easier than I expected. Let this be a lesson for all of you out there who are apprehensive about digging into a DIY project. If I can do this stuff, anyone can.

[dogstar74]

I'm worried about the heat in the box. I'd vent it if I were you, or better yet, buy a small fan from a computer company and install that in the box.

For a real virgin run, I'd place that thing on the floor of my garage where it can't start a fire, and run it hard for 10 hours and feel the box after a good solid test. That should give you an indication if you're gonna burn the place down or not.

Also, about soldering, I burned my self the first time I ever tried it! Something I'll never forget, it was awesome! But dang it hurt! It makes you really feel good when a whole project comes together.

Your project looks fantastic though. I am so awe inspired by this whole thread!

[DSparks]

I mentioned a change in how I'm mounting the pendant. I've ditched the wooden slats in favor of a piece of aluminum bar. As usual, I'll let the pics tell the story.

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PendantMount1.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PendantMount2.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PendantMount3.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PendantMount4.jpg

http://www.dwaynesparks.com/uploads/20gsetup/PendantMount5.jpg

This new mounting method worked out really well. It's very sturdy, and much simpler than my previous approach. In case you can't tell from the pics, I painted it black with Rustoleum spray paint so that it matches the finish of the pendant.

I have say, the color on these 14K bulbs is amazing. I'm really debating the need for any supplemental actinic at this point. Throw in some moonlighting and I'll be all set.

This thing is freaky bright. The pendant seems to make all the difference in the world. It's well worth the $99 if you ask me. AMAZING!

[DSparks]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8597385#post8597385 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
For a real virgin run, I'd place that thing on the floor of my garage where it can't start a fire, and run it hard for 10 hours and feel the box after a good solid test. That should give you an indication if you're gonna burn the place down or not.

Great advice. I think I'll be doing this over the holiday weekend. I also like the idea of a fan, however, I'm not sure that I have the room to include a DC converter in there. Any thoughts?

[DSparks]

Next Steps:

1) Get a couple Ice Cap fans installed in the hood.
2) Build a light for the Refugium
3) Finish Basement
4) Move Tank to Basement
5) Setup an Auto Top Off System
6) Go Live!