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Drouse
02/02/2006, 02:05 PM
I recently fired up my dual chamber Geo Reactor. I had to clean out the old media due to muck issues and sulfate build-up. While I was at it I bought a new solenoid and needle valve. After I turned the reactor pump on to fill the chambers the fittings leaked. Will silicone lubricant fix most of those small leaks?

The new solenoid works but I cannot seem to control the bubble counter. It bubbles 80-90 bubbles/ min with the needle valve closed? I cannot figure that out. So I am frustrated and dosing with 2 parts until I get some suggestions.

Any ideas?

Dave

Randy Holmes-Farley
02/03/2006, 10:28 AM
I'm not an expert on the valve, but it sounds broken or not put together correctly.

Anyway, the main reason that I posted was to ask what you mean by "sulfate build-up".

Drouse
02/03/2006, 10:46 AM
Randy, I am not untirely sure of the chemical make-up but I made the sulfur reference based upon the smell. The reactor sat ideal for a great while with water still inside. My fault. There was a dark black residue on the reactor media that had a definite rotten egg, sulfur-like odor.

Sorry if I mislead you.

Dave

elephen
02/03/2006, 10:55 AM
Did you use teflon tape on the threaded parts?

elephen
02/03/2006, 10:57 AM
And what MFG/model of regulator do you have?

Drouse
02/03/2006, 11:29 AM
The regulator/solenoid is a Gen-X. I put teflon tape on the fittings. Can I unscrew them and redo it without stripping the threads? I get nervous with the plastic threads.

Rao
02/03/2006, 02:18 PM
My geo smell like rotten eggs wen i disconect the punp that circulates water on him, so the non aerobic bacteria star to produce sulfur. But in a working reactor i think it's realy extrange. For the bubbles goin with the valve closed.... the valve is broken.

Regards

Randy Holmes-Farley
02/03/2006, 05:37 PM
Thanks. :)

One reason that I asked is that some folks report a yellow residue inside of CaCO3/CO2 reactor tubing, and I'm still trying to figure out what that is. :)


The reactor sat ideal for a great while with water still inside.

That would be hydrogen sulfide (H2S) caused by bacteria breaking down organics in the stagnant water, using up the O2, and then turning to sulfate (SO4--) which they stripped the oxygen atoms from, and leaving hydrogen sulfide. :)

This article explains that process:

Hydrogen Sulfide and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-12/rhf/index.php

wrott
02/03/2006, 05:50 PM
I would re-tape the leaking fittings and disassemble the valve(there may be particles keeping it from closing), clean it and see if it works---it's a very simple valve.

Rao
02/04/2006, 11:40 AM
Yes have i vage idea of the hydrogen sulfide production proces, wath seem extrange to me is that the sulfide is being produced in a working reactor, the incoming water shuld have enough oxigen to prevent this to happen rigth???

Drouse
02/04/2006, 11:44 AM
The reactor was shut done. It was not operational for a few months.

Rao
02/04/2006, 11:49 AM
Ok.... that explain it, the asame thing hapen to mine, also lot of the media get disolved or pulveraised, hard to clean the bubble counter. Check the alkalinity wen you re conecte it, my alkaliniti get realy high i presume for the lot of media dost that get to the aquarium once i set the CR again

jdieck
02/04/2006, 12:06 PM
I am assuming you are talking about the needle valve that controls the CO2 and you are talking about a metal (Either stainless steel or bronze) valve. NO PLASTIC needle valve shall be used for CO2 control only for effluent. Besides checking that the needle is not damaged please remember that needle valves are mostly for flow adjustment not for shut off. When shut off, most delicate needle valves get an indentation in the needle.
Also check that the regulator discharge pressure is not excessive, try to keep the output regulator pressure at or below 25 psi.
In addition insure that you install CO2 compatible check valve after the regulator to prevent water backflow and damaging the valve or regulator.
For the threads on metal parts like the solenoid valve to the regulator and metal needle valve use a TFE paste. For plastic connectors and fittings use either two layers of Teflon tape or a small amount of TFE paste. You can use also a layer of Teflon and some paste at the same time. Remember less is more in case of fine threaded fittings like the 1/8" John Guest connectors.

Hope this info helps.