pH controller

[hokiefish]

Stepping it up a notch. I decided to buy that Ca reactor eastTN was selling (Thanks for picking that up Dave). I was wondering if any of you guys had any opinion on pH controllers. My pH has been on the low side lately (8.0) so I would really like something that could turn on my kalk doser when it gets too low. It look like this one here (https://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_controllers_american_marine_pinpoint_ph_controller_information.asp?CartId=) might be a good choice but havent heard much about them. Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Ian

[HOC]

I've always used pinpoint and nevr had a problem with them.

[hokiefish]

I really liked this one because it could control 2 devices at a high and low set point. Most ive looked at only turn the Ca reactor on/off.

[manderx]

the only thing i'd use a controller for is to turn the CO2 off if the pH within the reactor dropped enough to mush the media. i think it's way too risky and inconsisent to have it control tank paramters. what happens when you forget to calibrate it and it drifts, or interference makes it go crazy, or the probe falls out of the water and you don't notice?

[hokiefish]

We use the osmolator to control salinity. I didnt know you could mush the media. I would think you would have to crank up the Ca reactor really high. The falling out of water thing did cross my mind as well but i would place it somewhere with constant water level. Ive got that lab grade pH meter as well I can use for the effluent as well as to make sure my controller is accurate. Ive got an extra lab grade ph oprobe to I could use to replace the controllers.

Matt (and anyone else) -if you had to rely on a controller to manage your pH which would you choose?

[cjgalante]

pm sent

[manderx]

yeah, if the pH in the reactor gets too low (<~6.3) it will mush granular media like ARM and Koralith. Schuran-style (coral skeletons) doesn't seem to have this issue and can be driven *really* hard.

if you don't keep an eye on things, your effluent drip rate can slow down as stuff builds up in the lines, which means more relative CO2 in the reactor, which means lower pH. or when you get near the end of a cylinder, regulators don't work right when the tank pressure drops below a certain threshold and can actually let alot of CO2 out while it's dying, basically a free-flow. which lowers the pH and mushes the media. mushed media can ruin pumps from all the grit it releases into the water. usually just the recirc pump on the reactor but if it's bad enough i've heard of people ruining return/circ pumps in the whole tank.

all that said though, i don't run a controller on mine mostly because it's one more probe to worry about and keep calibrated. it's always been rock solid consistent and the only times i've mushed mine is when i screwed up, and i always caught it quickly enough.

i still have a bad feeling about using a controller to manage tank pH. once you get the reactor going and keep using kalk, you'll figure out settings to get the pH good and won't need to automate pH adjustments to the tank. i'm still worried about it dumping too much kalk in, either slowly raising your sump level to the point where it overflows on pumps-off or simply spiking your pH because it doesn't think the kalk it's adding is doing anything.

[Charlie Davidson]

I agree basically with Matt, and can attest to what happens when ARM is turned to mush!! But- I believe If you can afford one, buy a controller. Like every thing else, keep and eye on it. do some shopping/reading around. Also don't limit yourself to just a PH controller. Richmong reef club has a thread on a controller right now( can't remember name) that looks very good. for $240! I believe a desent Ph controller will be $140..

[CaptainDave]

Ian, your calcium reactor is sweet. You better not leave it laying around my place for long, or it might get hooked up to my tank. You know, just to make sure it works ;)

either that, or I'm buying a keg and using all of your Co2 :D

[easttn]

Ian,

You don't need a controller, it will keep the reactor more off than on. Get your pH where you want it with Kalk, then adjust either the bubble rate or effluent drip rate to keep the Ca level over 400 and Alk around 9. As time changes and things grow the drip rate should be managed. Might get you a new precision needle valve, the one on there was a cheepy.

Are you happy with your purchase? And thank you Dave for picking it up.

Charles

[easttn]

Still curious??

[hokiefish]

Charles,

Sorry I just got back in town. I have been in colorado for the last week. I havent even seen it yet but im sure it will work just fine. I think I will order that new needle valve today. Ill let you know when its all set up and running hopefully sometime this week.

Dave,

Thanks again for picking this up. Ill call you later to come get it.

Cheers,

Ian