View Full Version : Stand and Canopy Veneering
sschafer
03/20/2006, 10:47 PM
Hello all,
Has anyone done much veneer work on stands and canopies for saltwater tanks? I'm planning on doing some building and was thinking of hardwood structure with veneered panels. What would you use for a core? What would you use as a finish? Epifanes? Anyone have a veneered stand that has been around a while?
Thanks,
Steve
BeanAnimal
03/20/2006, 10:58 PM
I think the first questions would be...
Can you afford solid hardwood?
Can you afford good veneer and the tools?
Are you experienced with veneer products?
Long story short, if your are not looking at exotic hardwood, then you are better off buying the real deal. If on the other hand you are looking at exotics or looking for inlay or other intricate patterns or cuts, then veneer may save you some money (or be the only way to get the look you want).
That said, to veneer more than a single surface is an artform in itself. The process will take some special tools and a lot of learning and patience. Just about any stable wood can be used as a core (MDF, poplar, etc). The problem is keeping the core stable. You will more than likely need to veneer and finish both sides with similar material (even hidden sides) to keep the core from warping. A Vacuum pump and bags are a big help (see joewoodworker.com for DIY info). You will most likely want to get a few veneer books and also look into rec.woodworking or other forums to get as much info from "old timers" as possible. Veneero comes in many styles (paper backed, glue backed, no backing) and also comes in many thicknesses and cuts. The glues have changed a lot over the years, but hide glue is still popular, and so are some new epoxies and urethane based stuff. Expect to spend kind of big buck on a glue that will be stable in the marine environment and not bleed through your expensive veneer.
Bean
Bean
agfahy
03/21/2006, 05:01 AM
What kind of veneer are you wanting to use?
If its nothing exotic then just find 4x8 sheets of it and use hardwood.
If you are looking for something exotic, first locate the appropiate vendor w/ all the venner and hardwood necessary to do the job.
Veneer work is reletivly simple, so long as you stay away from too many bends. You then need a steamer of some sort and some Glycerine.
Give us alittle more insight into your stand and I will continue with veneering processes for the home DIYer.
BeanAnimal
03/21/2006, 10:07 AM
I still feel if it's not exotic, it would be aasy and cost effective to use the real deal... but then again I like working with hardwood.
ag... I guess you end up veneering a lot of cabinentsm what brand of glue do you prefer?
sschafer
03/21/2006, 05:48 PM
Thanks guys,
I'm planning on using Wenge hardwood for the exterior "structural" accents. For the panels I was thinking of Lacewood which I can get in either hardwood or veneer. I do already have some Quilted Makore and Pommele Bubinga veneers which there is no way I'll spend the money on hardwood for those. I've never even seen a board of Quilted Makore for sale. I think the Pommele Bubinga will be to dark for what I am aiming for. I'd like to basically have a very very dark accent wood for framing and molding and a reddish figured wood for the rest. The tank footprint will either be 96"x30" or 84"x30", still trying to figure that out.
I do have access to a vacuum press that can handle a full 4'x8' sheet. I know that you have to veneer both sides of plywood for stability, but does MDF need to be veneered on both sides? I'm hoping that MDF is stable enough that I can paint the interior rather than veneering it. I assume that the finish is going to have to be a pretty robust varnish to handle salt spray etc. I'm lucky enough to be within driving distance of Certainly Wood, a truly awesome veneer seller:
http://www.certainlywood.com/index.htm
Thanks,
Steve
sales weasel
03/21/2006, 06:57 PM
I build audiophile speakers as a hobby and I use nothing but 3/4" MDF and paper-backed veneer. If you have the patience, you could probably veneer an aquarium cabinet. As someone else already said, it's probably not worth the effort if you don't want a fine veneer. The doors will be the tough part if you have any kind of raised panels and routed edges.
Now, all that being said, you can use the yellow wood glue and iron method that works quite well if you have nice flat panels and evenly square corners. If you use a large enough roundover bit on a router, you can round the corners and wrap the veneer. That's the way I make speakers. You can finish them with stain or oil them with something like Watco Danish Oil. A good source for veneer is oakwoodveneer.com
BeanAnimal
03/21/2006, 07:24 PM
I too build audiophile speakers as a hobby... however I am currently building a set of "adire audio" bangs! for my home theater. They use dirt cheap drivers and sound great!
sales weasel
03/21/2006, 07:55 PM
I don't want to hijack the thread but very cool. Three years ago, I built the Audax HT speakers. I'm still impressed with them to this day and we have a 100% dedicated FP HT. I'll say nothing else about speakers...only fishy things.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7009610#post7009610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I too build audiophile speakers as a hobby... however I am currently building a set of "adire audio" bangs! for my home theater. They use dirt cheap drivers and sound great!
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