Sump or Wet/Dry

[annoyingmirek]

Whats the difference between a sump filter and a wet/dry trickle filter? Currently have a wet/dry in my 55g. and want to know if there is a difference since I'm getting ready to install a skimmer. Thanks

[Reefmaniac1]

Major difference: A sump is basically just a tank below the display whose purpose is simply to increase water volume (and maybe be a refugium as well). You use it also to place heaters, chiller equipment, dosing equipment and skimmers. Whereas a wet/dry is a biological filter with extra space for holding the above items. You don't need the wet/dry as your live rock and live sand should be doing all your bio filtration (without the side effect of producing copious amounts of nitrate like a wet/dry will. IMO, remove 20% of (the original ammount of) the bio-balls (or whatever the material is) every week for 5 weeks. This gives the bacteria in the tank time to take over the nitrogen cycle (and multiply) without being overwhelmed, causing an ammonia spike. You should start seeing nitrate reduction shortly. Especially with the addition of the skimmer.

[mburnickas]

It depends on what you are trying to achieve.

Sumps can hold algae, snails etc.
Wet/dry are great for adding O2 to water. They are called “nitrates factories” because users are lazy.

I have a wet/dry on my 75 and works just fine.

[annoyingmirek]

So with me removing the wet/dry, i should be able to achevie lower nitrate levels? Mine are at like 10 now. 0 ammonia.

[mburnickas]

If you take proper care of the wet/dry, the only way to remove nitrates is by water changes (easiest).

If you are not taking care of bioballs, yes it will lower them.

But you also do not know if this is the cause of them.

[janakaybravo]

I had a wet-dry that I converted to a sump by taking out the bioballs. I used the tray for laying a carbon filter on. You need to change the filters/sponge or whatever's in there often to avoid nitrates. I had no problems with nitrates. I recently upgraded to a large sump so I could have a refugium, so that could be a goal for the future if you want to go that direction.

[Fast Fred]

Do Not remove the bio-balls unless you have sufficient mature live rock in your tank!!! 1 pound per gallon is the general rule of thumb. You need the bacteria somewhere. The bio-balls are just a little too efficient at the nitrogen process, thus contibuting to high Nitrates.

[annoyingmirek]

I have about 70lbs. of LR in my 55g. yet it dosent seem like a lot of rock. Some is very porous but I do have a few pieces that are very heavy. I was thinking of adding at least 40 more lbs. So I think as I'm waiting for the rock I'll just start to thinkabout a sump and figure out how the sump will look and what it will house.( mabe refuge).....Thanks

[annoyingmirek]

As for the nitrates, I change my filter media in my tank roughly about once a month ( every other water change) since I was told that a lot of my beneficial bacteria lives in that also and changing it all at once and too often will disturb the bacteria cycle.....Any thoughts?

[mburnickas]

I change my filter pads on drip plate and in overflow once per week (and they look bad). The filter media in my eyes is to filter, not promote bacteria life. That is what the DSB, LR etc are for. The filter media cleans the water.

I think this might be adding to your issue

[annoyingmirek]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7154942#post7154942 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mburnickas
I change my filter pads on drip plate and in overflow once per week (and they look bad). The filter media in my eyes is to filter, not promote bacteria life. That is what the DSB, LR etc are for. The filter media cleans the water.

I think this might be adding to your issue

I feel the same way, I'm just going by what more experienced people are telling me. But you are making more sense.

[floridareefs]

get the sump. Het it as long and as high. I beleive you can check the user melev. he has instruction on how to put a sump under a 55g. Its muh more benefiial than your standard wet/dry.

[janakaybravo]

I had Marc (Melev) build my sump. It's huge, takes up almost my whole cabinet. It's better than wet/dry because you have a fuge where your macroalgae uses your nitrates for its growth. Everyone's right, just get rid of bioballs little by little. That's what I did. I have 120 lbs. of live rock in a 120 and live sand. It's plenty for bio filter. I use filter pads just to take out stuff and change them often, sometimes every three days. I reuse/wash/rinse in ro water. I don't depend on filter pads for bio filtration at all.

[mburnickas]

Yup, I still re-use my filter pads; wash (by hand) with bleach, rise, rise and let dry for about 3 days. I do not wash them in clothes washer since I just spent $1,400 on a front loader. Only clothes…for now.

[annoyingmirek]

Using bleach on pads is good? I always had the idea that bleach was no good for anything to do with the tank....

[mburnickas]

Never had a problem in 12+ years. The key, I think is rising rezl good and letting dry. If you can smell bleach on the pads, you did not rise them good enough.

but on the flip side many RC memebers wash (with bleach) there filter socks.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7155967#post7155967 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by annoyingmirek
Using bleach on pads is good? I always had the idea that bleach was no good for anything to do with the tank....

Bleach is great. I can be washed out, it can be easily removed with chlorine removers (water treatment stuff...amquel, etc) and best of all, it evaporates off moderately quickly.

Detergent on the other hand...

[janakaybravo]

I haven't tried used bleach yet. I just throw in washer with no detergent. Then rinse in ro water unless it dries out, in which case you probably don't need to rinse.

[mburnickas]

I would love to use the washer, but the wife will not let me touch the new one...