sump on undrilled tank

[r0bin]

HOw do sumps work on undrilled tanks? Overflow box? How do you hook them up and what about flooding? I have never wanted a sump b/c I keep hearing they can flood your house.

[caldel]

Sumps work great with overflow boxes. You fill your tank to the overflow spill level. Then fill your sump to within 2 inch's of top. Turn on your return pump. If pump stops tank water will drain to lfill level and sump will not overflow..VERY important that return line has anti-syphon hole at water line so water dose NOT syphon from return line.

[r0bin]

ok lost me on the siphon hole part, but the rest was very helpful. Can anyone else help me understand how this works? Very much appreciated. Also, why are sumps so important. Seems like everyone here is sold on them. Also can others who have the system we are taking about chime in and give their opionions please. Pros and cons.

[caldel]

Sumps add space to locate skimmers, pumps, heaters and additional water. This allows tank to look more natural. Because most return nozzels are below the overflow spill line, If there is not a hole at water line, the water will syphon into the sump and cause it to overflow if the return pump stops

[current516]

I was thinking the same thing. I have a 60g tempered glass (says it can't be drilled).

I understand how the overflow box works, but is there a way to have a sump in a non-drilled tank without risking flooding?

Will I regret not spending the money for a pre-drilled tank?

[caldel]

A properly installed overflow setup will eliminate ALMOST any chances of flouding. The ONLY way the system would floud is if something crawls into the overflow and blocks the syphon tube.

[r0bin]

Another question. Seems to me that you would still have to have powerheads and heaters in the tank. If you do, then why the sump?

[current516]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243758#post7243758 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by caldel
A properly installed overflow setup will eliminate ALMOST any chances of flouding. The ONLY way the system would floud is if something crawls into the overflow and blocks the syphon tube.

Sorry, I misunderstood a previous post.

So is the only important difference between the drilled and non-drilled overflow setups aesthetics? Is there more chance of mechanical failure? More wear on pumps? More expense? etc.?

[r0bin]

good question, I will await the answer too.

[caldel]

Overflows can make alittle more noise when the water girgles down the main drain tube. Other then that. No big diffence

[smleee]

I think there is a little confusion going on here. There is quite a big difference between a non-drilled type of setup to a drilled setup.

This is a non drilled setup with overflow:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3642&Ntt=overflow&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

I'm not sure of that model, but some are notorious for causing floods, whether it be from lack of maintenance or bad design.

A properly drilled setup with overflow has significant less chance of failure from "bad design".

eee

[frederickk]

With a non-drilled type of setup the system will flood if something crawls into the overflow and blocks the siphon tube. I had my 77g like that and you want to get a eye on that siphon tube especially the one on top of the power head. I would say that mine was blocking with dirty things every month's causing a flood. The best way if you want to avoid such thing is to verify your level in your overflow box. If the level is higher than usual then it means that there is something blocking at the other end near your power head.

You can just cut a piece of that plastic tube and re-insert it and voila your good for a few weeks.

[Deacon]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243898#post7243898 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by r0bin
Another question. Seems to me that you would still have to have powerheads and heaters in the tank. If you do, then why the sump?

You can put heaters in the sump! You can also use the return from the sump as circulation in the main tank, which can cut down on the number of powerheads needed. Less clutter in the main tank.

[Weller]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243758#post7243758 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by caldel
A properly installed overflow setup will eliminate ALMOST any chances of flouding. The ONLY way the system would floud is if something crawls into the overflow and blocks the syphon tube.

To eliminate this problem, put a float switch in the sump for the return pump. When the water level in the sump drops below a certain point (before the display overflows), the return pump will be shut off.

[gohan3]

I had the same questions and then I found this site. There is also a 3 part article on everything you want to know about sumps.
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

[Alaskan Reefer]

Lifereef and Amiracle overflows are widely regarded as the best, meaning most floodproof. A clean, well designed overflow with anti-siphon hole won't fail unless (as mentioned) a snail decides to crawl in and fill up the hole. You can overflow a drilled tank as well if you let the standpipes overgrow with algae or let a snail block the pipe (most standpipes have an elongated grate similar to many powerhead intakes to prevent this). Drilled is more worry free, but you can accomplish the same thing with an overflow.

I use powerheads (Tunze streams) in the tank because it isn't drilled for closed loop and I prefer lower flow through my sump for skimmer efficiency. You can blast it through there if you wish, but if my tank weren't drilled I'd aim for enough flow to maintain the function of the overflow and not much more for safety and skimmer effectiveness.