660 Issues

[nebraskareef]

Hello Icecap!

I have a 660 ballast which I bought used from a lfs in my area. Immediatly after purchase I sent it in for service to make sure I was in OEM specs.

Fast foward about 18 months, I'm finally ready to set 'er up. I'm running 2 36" UVL actinics. I wired everything w 3pc endcaps and mounting brackets (unmounted during testing) and the bulbs fired of the first try!

The bulbs stayed lit for about 30 seconds or so and then went out. I unplugged the ballast and let them cool off for 10 minutes or so and checked the fuse, it appears to be normal, but the bulbs will not re-fire.

Do you have any insight into this matter? From the looks of other posts it sounds like it may be the ballast, but this is the FIRST time I've even touched it since it came back from service, so I hope not.

Thank you for your terrific customer service!

Daniel

[IceCap Service]

The first thing you need to do is mount the end caps. It is extremely difficult to get lamps seated properly if they are not mounted. Then give it one more try.
If if it still does not stay lit go to http://www.icecapinc.com/pdf/contest.pdf and do this test. It will check all circuit continuity.
If no flash at all check the fuse, but do not rely on a visual test, use a meter. Many times a fuse will blow and you will not see any visual signs.

[nebraskareef]

I certainly appreciate the quick response. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electricity, but I do have an ohm meter, but what setting should it be on for the continuity/fuse check?

The hood isn't built yet, but I will mount the endcaps to a peice of wood for testing purposes.

Again, thanks for your time.

Daniel

[IceCap Service]

Set the metet to the "ohms" position. The symbol looks like an upside down horsehoe or the Omega symbol. Set the range to mid range.

[nebraskareef]

Well, I was trying to test the fuse but could never get my multimeter set right. So, I shove the fuse back in and plugged it back in, and the bulbs lit, and stayed lit.

I'm thinking the fuse may have been misseated, if thats possible.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Daniel

[IceCap Service]

The fuse being not seated properly is a possibility but I have not heard of it before. More likely something else was loose or not seated properly and moving things around fixed the problem. Could it have been the harness connector itself? Anyway, glad you are back up and running.

[ASH]

From IceCap:
For safe reefing, http://www.icecapinc.com/pdf/endcap.pdf and when you mount your endcaps and insert the lamp there should be no slop or wiggle room for the lamp. A snug fit and then screw on seals but there's no need to tighten them.
Seals work best uncompressed.

Andy

[nebraskareef]

Andy, I had seen that a whle ago and just couldn't remember where to locate the link, I'll be checking it out in a minute. When I get the hood built, I'll be sure to check my "p's and q's" so to speak to make sure I've got a safe and reliable setup.

Thanks again for your A+ service, the community appreciates it!

Daniel

[nebraskareef]

Well, scratch "safe and reliable" from my setup now. Like I had said before, I got the setup used a couple of years ago. The wire that was connected to the endcaps is a much larger gauge than 18, in fact taking a closer look, the wire is 12 awg!!!!! NO WONDER MY LIGHTS WERE NOT FIRING! I just tugged on one of the 18 AWG wires, and it came right out! Looks like the ?tensioner's? are probably stretched out now.

GRRRR.

Better to find out now, than burn down my house, I suppose.