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patedship
04/26/2006, 09:37 PM
So i am starting up a new tank tell me how this sounds to you guys/gals:

I already have; 50B drilled and stand, 36" Coralife Pro lights, Coralife 125 Super Skimmer, a custom sump/refugium in a 20L, 50w heater, Maxi Jet 600 (160gph), and 80lbs of live sand, with roughly 10lbs of live rock to start out.

I still want/need to buy these items if i am not mistaken; 100w heater in addition to the 50w, internal overflow, 40lbs live rock, auto topoff (auto-topoff.com), Maxi Jet 1200 (295gph), 600pgh pump.

Does that sound like it is a good setup? ....for now;)

old salty
04/26/2006, 11:44 PM
Sounds alright. I'd get another powerhead or two just to make sure. Don't forget a nice RO/DI filter, refractometer, test kits, thermometer, and a few other goodies.

bertoni
04/26/2006, 11:47 PM
I would probably go with maybe a 200-300 gph tank for the sump, if you're going to have one. A total flow of 500-1500 gph is a reasonable range to consider, depending on what animals you want to keep.

AJ69
04/27/2006, 12:21 AM
How about some Seios? or if you already have the Maxis, see if you can get the modifications for them.(a lot of flow)

patedship
04/27/2006, 07:56 AM
So on the return side of my sump/refugium i should have a 200-300gph pump, not the 600gph?

Sk8r
04/27/2006, 10:20 AM
I'd get two thermometers, one topside, one down, in case one fails...the woes of people who trusted just one are frequent in this list. Never believe a heater thermostat, either. In operation, you may find the heat of the running pumps and lights (plus heat-retention of your rocks) will make getting rid of heat harder than acquiring it.

And a special emphasis on test kits: if you're going to keep corals, start with 1. refractometer (salinity) 2. alkalinity test (Seifert gives precise numbers, not just "ok") 3. calcium test 4. magnesium test.

Pick a good brand of salt that you can get easily and always have salt in house.

Have in house at all times: carbon, with nylon knee-highs for bag; net; turkey baster---trust me on this; buckets adequate for a 20% water change, out and in---a second pump and hose to suck water out and put water in: I use a 900 maxi: it will lift from the floor, but it's not powerful enough to blow up a sand cloud; and a packet of polypads (chemical sponge for the water) just in case you have a fool for a guest.

bertoni
04/27/2006, 01:19 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7258033#post7258033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by patedship
So on the return side of my sump/refugium i should have a 200-300gph pump, not the 600gph?

That would be my choice. It's cheaper and more flexible to provide flow via closed loops and powerheads, and you don't risk as many problems with bubbles.

bertoni
04/27/2006, 01:20 PM
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

As long as we're discussing testing, that article is a good reference for water parameters.

patedship
04/27/2006, 01:26 PM
Thank you guys for the help but i am very familiar with testing, i currently have a tank so i already have most of the equipment you guys are talking about, i appreciate the concern! Better safe than sorry!

patedship
04/28/2006, 06:10 PM
So today i ordered my RO/DI from Purelyh20, the automated system. I am super excited i will start a thread with my entire venture into this new tank. Moving up from a 12 gallon nano DX to a 50gallon is a big step for me, but i cannot wait to see how this all unfolds! Any more input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Could one of you show me the way you have your rear drilled tank (not bottom) running to you sump. I would like to know what kind of pumps i am going to need.