Clams-care/tolerances/weakness's ?

[boxfishpooalot]

Hi everyone. In my 11 years in this hobby I have learned a lot. Especially from Rc! Anyone that has owned a clam or had one, can you please eplain what you would think they can tolerate as far as water quality goes and lighting.

In my tank(wich is a fo and some corals-softies) I have the following water parameters:

Ammonia-0
nitrite-0
nitrates-probably 100=ppm(salifert)

Calcium-480
alkalinity-2.5meq/l
phosphate-3ppm(I know...)

Magnesium-1325ppm

You think I could get one? Probably not. But im working on the phosphates and nitrates for now.

I have t5 lighting with a 400watt 20k halide if needed(not in use right now)

How well do they do with nitrates and phospates as posted?

I need to find out as much information about them before I venture into another delicate animal.

[Dazed And Confused]

What's the source of your nitrates and phosphate? I'm not a clam expert, just looking to learn.

[boxfishpooalot]

phospahtes was from tap water. 2 weeks ago I got an ro unit(finally :D ) wich now reads close to zero phosphates(shouldnt have skimped on the di part) down from 3-4ppm of tap water phoshpates.

The nitrates were 2.5ppm or less with my sand bed, but due to my little bb adventrue :D they skewed to 200ppm from the removal of my sand bed and sugar additions. Wont do bb again...well maybee in the future.

Also bb rocks should be "cooked"(soaked in saltwater) wich I did not do,thats another factor.
Now I have sand again.lol.

[Anemonebuff]

Using the 400 watt halide may be necessary depending on the amount of T5 you are running and the type of clam you want.

Crocea and maxima would like the additional light.

Dereasa and squamosa are more forgiving.

Clams ingest some nutrients. I do not think that they mind some nitrate and phosphate, as long as the phosphate is not interfering with calcification.

[mbbuna]

i agree with Anemonebuff.

with your level of PO4 it will inhibit the clams growth. you need to get that down to .2 or lower.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/jf/feature/index.php

http://www.reefcorner.com/introtoclams.htm

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7368994#post7368994 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Anemonebuff
Using the 400 watt halide may be necessary depending on the amount of T5 you are running and the type of clam you want.

125s arent deep. You could keep a crocea with a 175. Or T5s, or maybe even PCs.

Crocea and maxima would like the additional light.

Dereasa and squamosa are more forgiving.

correct. Croceas need a good amount more than maximas though.

Clams ingest some nutrients. I do not think that they mind some nitrate and phosphate, as long as the phosphate is not interfering with calcification. Clams LOOOVE nitrate.

[Anemonebuff]

No doubt. I keep my maxima under 175 watters, but I wouldn't keep it under t5/VHO unless the clam was close to the surface(upper 6"). But, being he has a 400 watter just sitting around...........

[RichConley]

I disagree. There are PLENTY of people who keep clams under T5 and VHO, and theyre nowhere near the surface.

I understand you wouldnt do it, but that doesnt mean its not commonly done with great success.

[Anemonebuff]

I never said it cannot/is not done. I kept my current clam under VHO's. I had the maxima in the upper 8" of the tank. Now it is in the middle under my halides and the clam looks 10x's better now(better growth and better color). Dereasa and squamosa clams would fare much better under t5/VHO than crocea and maxima. IMO/IME you will have better success with the high light clams with halides.

[RichConley]

Plenty of people keep great looking maximas on the sand, in T5 tanks. They look just as good as under MH. T5s are a lot stronger than VHOs.

Honestly 200w of T5 puts out more light than 350+w of vho.


What are you running for T5s boxfish?

[keeperofthefish]

I just got a Maxima yesterday and it is about 14 inches from my 275 watts of T5 lighting. So far so good--it looked every bit as good as in the MH tank it came out of. I researched a lot beforehand and have heard of big success with clams at T5--a lot more so than with SPS and T5s. Interested in following this thread, though.

[kevensquint]

I find them easier than acros, but thats just MO.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7369854#post7369854 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevensquint
I find them easier than acros, but thats just MO.

Agree. Acros are tough.

Clams, anemones, etc aren't nearly as tough as a lot of people seem to think. You get a healthy specimen to start, and theyre pretty hardy.

[cheeks69]

Barry Neigut:

Another important consideration is proper lighting. Some clams require intense lighting to maintain their long term health and color. Such lighting is most effectively and economically provided by metal halide lamps. The wattage and number of lamps required depends upon the dimensions of your system and the species that you intend to keep. Suffice it to say, in most aquariums with a depth of 20" to 30", a 175 - 250 watt metal halide lamp per square foot will do a great job. In aquariums less than 20” deep, you could also utilize compact fluorescent (PC) and VHO bulbs. Keep in mind that the different species will dictate the lighting requirements. For example, Tridacna crocea and Tridacna maxima require more intense lighting than the other species. Smaller Tridacnids, and those with brown mantles do not require as much light as those with colorful mantles.

Bulb temperatures of 6,500K-10,000K are ideal, and will provide the spectrum the clams need for growth, and will help maintain optimum coloration in the animals.

Water Chemistry



New Growth Visible at the Shell Margin

Along with proper lighting, water chemistry plays an important role in health of Tridacnids. The water chemistry should be stable, with no large swings in your specific gravity or pH.

Here are some recommended environmental parameters:

Salinity 1.022 - 1.025

pH 8.0 - 8.4

Alkalinity 9.0 - 11.0 dKh

Calcium 400ppm+

Calcium and alkalinity (carbonate hardness) are the building blocks of Tridacnid shells and should be measured on a regular basis and maintained at the levels listed above. The growth of a juvenile clam is readily evident on the upper margin of the shell, and is a good indicator of the health of the clam. Poor growth of clams is a good indication that something is wrong in the system, and in most cases caused by a lack of available calcium or carbonates.

Calcium is not the only element that is needed by clams for proper growth. Some hobbyists choose to add iodine supplement to their clam tanks because the believe that iodine helps detoxify excessive oxygen radicals produced by symbiotic algae. If you plan on supplementing iodine, be sure to test the water on a regular basis to avoid overdosing which may lead to nuisance algae and other potential problems within the aquarium. Many aquarists believe that enough iodine is added inadvertently through feeding and water changes since iodine is present in both good quality salt mix and in most aquarium foods.

Many other trace elements are important to clam health, but trace element solutions are easily overdosed. Most trace elements can be safely and easily maintained through regular partial water changes. I strongly believe that doing small water changes on a frequent basis is better than larger water changes on a less frequent basis since trace elements will be added more often. Partial water changes have the added benefit of reducing pollutants.


http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm


Here's some more excellent info on Tridacnids:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BookMatters/WWM/NMA-RI/NMA-RI_Tridacnids-demo.pdf

[hairymushroom]

why dont you check out our own tridacnid forum, plenty info there