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Medic415
06/13/2006, 05:45 AM
Finally after 2.5yrs, I have gotten permission to start a saltwater tank. This past Saturday I stopped at the closest LFS that deals with saltwater mainly. I was there about 8 months ago also. www.millersreef.com, but anyway since I'm a pretty busy person...working 2 jobs...the owner is going to build me a system. I chose a 46 gallon bowfront tank with stand...limited space at home. He is going to incoporate a 10 gallon sump/fuge into the system. I will be getting all the other goodies from him too rock, sand, other filtration-rock in the sump,...he was pro bioballs, but asked him not to due all the reading I have been doing, he reccomended VHO light for my budget. He didn't believe in a protien skimmer, states he has not problems with frequent water changes...but I think I will purchase a HOB after we get it set up.

As soon as I get hings going I will start taking pictures....with any luck I will have water circulating by Friday...I hope anyway.

I will keep all posted.

Mike.

techreef
06/13/2006, 07:06 AM
Good luck Medic! 2.5 years is a LONG time to wait. I'm chomping at the bit after 10 months.

Did you check out T5 lighting during your background reading? It's what I ended up going with for my 90G. Lighting is definitely a daunting topic to try and tackle, but from my reading it seems that as T5 lighting becomes more mainstream, more and more people are finding it the most versatile, and very energy efficient, method of reef tank lighting. (Assuming that you are using quality individual reflectors like IC reflectors) My tank doesn't have water in it yet (waiting for my plumbing supplies delivery from Savko) but I anticipate being able to keep just about any type of coral or clam that I choose with my 6 bulb T5 setup.

Looking forward to your setup pics. Enjoy your tank!

crumbletop
06/13/2006, 07:31 AM
If you want inexpensive and proven lighting, VHO is hard to beat. You might also look into a 4x65W PC setup for that size of tank. If you ever did decide to upgrade your lighting, you can always use the VHOs/PCs for actinics + Halides or T5s for the more powerful penetration. I think your plan sounds fine, except I'd invest in a skimmer earlier rather than later.

Jack

ricks
06/13/2006, 08:55 AM
Get yourself a large protein skimmer.. Even with water changes, will be the best money you can spend.... Working 2 jobs doesn't leave alot of time. This hobby can require alot of time to be sucessful.

Medic415
06/25/2006, 01:42 PM
Just got back from the LFS, think I'm going to need another job...just got his estimate on the build. Altered the specs.-46gal. Bow, stand, 20gal. sump/fuge with pump, don't remember the name or gpm, sand, 40-50lbs. premium Fiji rock, went with PC lighting over the VHO...Current Dual Satellite 192watts...10000k/6700 and 460/420 Actinic with moonlights. He is going to drill and place fitting in the tank and sump along with the plex in for the fuge. He is going to draw me a diagram and list the PVC that I will need to connect the tank and sump. Also getting the water from there...he assured me his RO/DI system is well maintained. Gonna mix the water myself, gonna go with Reef Crystals or Instant Ocean...any suggestions or opinion are well come.

You will get pictures when I get them, probably another 2 weeks till I get things together.

Be Safe.

Mike.

TekCat
06/25/2006, 02:36 PM
to save some money tips:
get 25lbs of LR from LFS. Another 25lbs you could get as dry (base rock) from online retailers. this rock is a "used t o be" live rock. With presense of real LR that you'd gt from LFS it will become real LR in no time, however it may take a couple of months for coralline algea to grow on them.

As far as sand goes, get "dead" sand, not live "bagged". again, LR will seed an dead sand. Just don't get crushed coral, you'll be fighting algae after a while with crushed coral.

Medic415
06/25/2006, 06:07 PM
Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=129808-43353-WHER25&lpage=none

mfisher2112
06/25/2006, 06:17 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7627125#post7627125 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Medic415
Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=129808-43353-WHER25&lpage=none

Not sure, but that looks like a 3 or 4 stage designed for drinking water.

Most everything I have read on the forums so far has recomended 5 stage with DI for reef water.

(Of course, I could be wrong, I am a newbie here too!)

I have been looking at this:

http://www.melevsreef.com/ro_di.html

And starting to check into this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4370928924&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

crumbletop
06/25/2006, 06:36 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7627125#post7627125 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Medic415
Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=129808-43353-WHER25&lpage=none

I'd get an RO/DI that is designed for reefs. You can get one for essentially the same price as the one you link to. I have a 75 gpd Typhoon unit from http://www.airwaterice.com/ . Get the 75 gpd instead of the 100 gpd because the RO membrane filters better with the 75 gpd. RO only systems will not get all the phosphate, etc that may be in your water -- that is what the DI section is for. I recommend you get the Typhoon III.

Jack

crumbletop
06/25/2006, 06:41 PM
To explain a little more about RO/DI, the workhorse of the system is the RO membrane. The Dow Filmtec membrane is recommended by the experts here on RC because it filters out 98% of the "gunk", passing less through to the DI resin. The DI resin is the most commonly replaced part, so a good RO membrane will save you maintenance cost over the long haul because you will be replacing the DI less often. The 100 gpd membrane only gets 90%, and other membranes on ebay and elsewhere are not optimized for normal household water pressure. Good units, like the one at airwaterice or at melevsreef, use the Dow Filmtec membrane, and also use vertical full sized refillable DI cartridges that are more efficient than the small, horizontal DI chambers.

Jack

Medic415
06/25/2006, 06:59 PM
Thanks all for the input on this RO/DI question, cleared some things up for me.

Mike.

mfisher2112
06/25/2006, 07:54 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7627478#post7627478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Medic415
Thanks all for the input on this RO/DI question, cleared some things up for me.

Mike.

You and me both! Thanks! :)

Medic415
07/12/2006, 08:49 PM
Here are some pictures of my tank and sump/refugium. Wanted a 20gal. sump, but it wouldn't sit in the stand, so settled for a 10gal. Just picked it today. I'm going to finish plumbing in the over flow and return myself. Probably won't be setting it up for several more weeks though. I decided to replace my carpet before I set the tank up. I'll post more in few weeks when I get a little further on my adventure.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/112464S_Picture_004.jpg http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/112464S_Picture_007.jpg http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/112464S_Picture_006.jpg http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/112464S_Picture_005.jpg

crumbletop
07/13/2006, 06:15 AM
Lookin' good :thumbsup:

Medic415
07/13/2006, 06:17 AM
What should I plumb the return with 1/2 or 3/4"? The overflow is 1".

crumbletop
07/13/2006, 06:27 AM
My AGA has a 3/4" bulkhead so my plumbing is 3/4" to the display. My pump is 1/2" output (eheim 1250) so my plumbing is 1/2" to the bulkhead. I think I would recommend you plumb your return for 3/4" as you can always reduce at the pump and 3/4" will give you less resistance for the pump to work against.

Jack

Medic415
07/13/2006, 06:39 AM
I don't have a bulkhead forthe return, was just going to plumb over the top. The pump I have is a Mag Drive 500, looks to have a 1/2" discharge. I was leaning on 3/4". Thanks.

Mike.

crumbletop
07/13/2006, 07:00 AM
Yeah, over the top should be fine, and I agree with 3/4".

Medic415
07/16/2006, 06:32 PM
Plumbed the tank and sump today. Filled checking for leaks. 1" over flow, 3/4" return to spray bar with 1/8" holes drilled at 1 1/2" apart. I have a MD5 pump in the sump. Can't wait now til we get our floor done over, so I can really start moving here. I know it will be several weeks yet, but I am really getting anxious.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/112464S_Picture_015.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/112464S_Picture_017.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/112464S_Picture_018.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/112464S_Picture_019.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/112464S_Picture_020.jpg

crumbletop
07/16/2006, 07:05 PM
Nice job!

What's all that pipe on the bottom of the display tank?

Jack

Medic415
07/16/2006, 07:13 PM
Spraybar to create flow behing the rock, then I'm going to use a couple powerheads for added circulation.

crumbletop
07/16/2006, 07:24 PM
Cool. I assume it will sit above the level of the sand.

Medic415
07/16/2006, 07:33 PM
More or less it will be, drilled the holes toward the top of the pvc. I was winging it a little bit. got extra pipe if it doesn't work out.

crumbletop
07/16/2006, 07:51 PM
One other thought. You might not want the spaybar ends to go all the way to the glass. You may want to back off a couple of inches on each side so you can get a magfloat in there . It will also hide it a little better from the side view -- that is, if you are going to have the sides visible.

Jack

Medic415
07/16/2006, 08:07 PM
Didn't look at it like that. May have to go get to more caps.

Medic415
07/18/2006, 07:31 AM
Since I have alittle time on my hands, I was thinking will I have enough turn over in my tank with the Mag 5 pump in the sump? I also plan on adding at least 2 powerheads, probably MJ 900's with them wave attachments on them. Will this be enough turn over with my spraybar set up, or should I order a Mag 7 for the sump when I order the powerheads will the 900's be enough or get 1200's? There is approx. a 3.5-4' lift from the sump, then about 3' more of pvc in the spraybar. I also am going to get a Remora HOT skimmer for the sump.

Mike.

crumbletop
07/18/2006, 12:24 PM
Regarding the return pump: The mag5 is plenty for a return pump for your new tank. I wouldn't go higher on the flow. A good rule of thumb to shoot for regarding sump flow is 3-5x display volume/hr. With head loss the Mag5 would be in the right range. You should get the bulk of your display flow from powerheads or a closed loop (similar to your spraybar). If you try to get display flow from a return pump, you waste energy overcoming gravity, while a closed loop or powerheads in the display pretty much provide pure flow.

Regarding the powerheads: I think I'd go with the 1200s. You might look into a seio powerhead -- wider, more powerful flow than the MJ. Some people have restart problems with the seios. I have 2 820s that work fine for me.

Regarding the skimmer: I have a plain jane remora and like it.

Jack

Medic415
07/18/2006, 12:39 PM
Thank you for the input on the return pump, I'll have to look into the Seios. How many power heads do you think? 1 high pointing toward front, 1 low oppisite direction, and 1 accross the back? The skimmer I'm hoping I can put the hang on remora in my sump, limited space under there.

Mike.

crumbletop
07/18/2006, 01:21 PM
The only problem you'll have with putting the remora in your sump will be the water level in the sump. I ended up putting my remora in my sump. I designed the inside so it could fit and would have a good water level to work with. You may be able to play with the length of the tubing from the powerhead to the skimmer to allow it to run with a lower level of water -- but then you might get splashing. If you don't already have the skimmer you might investigate other brands/types to use in or beside your sump. I'm happy with my remora and think it would work fine for a tank of your size.

If you want to put the remora in your sump, you'll be better off if you rearrange how you did your sump a little bit in order to separate the skimmer intake from the output. I did my sump something like this (I have since changed around the baffles):

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/303/303448/folders/232751/1817058SumpDesign2.jpg

The drain from the tank empties out in the same place where the remora pump is. The discharge from the remora empties out into a separate chamber so that a) the bubbles from the skimmer have to go through all the baffles, and b) so that the skimmer output doesn't mix with/dillute the input water.

Anyway, just some ideas.

Jack

Medic415
07/18/2006, 02:42 PM
I was going to try to hang the skimmer from the center partion in the chamber just after the return, where the sponge is currently. I also wanted to try to run phoguard or phos ban in that chamber too. Or could I hang it on the ned where the refugium is? the only thing I built was the plumbing from the sump to tank, the rest a LFS put together.

crumbletop
07/18/2006, 03:09 PM
As long as the measurements work out right and it fits, that sounds like a fine plan. The skimmer inputs on the left (while looking at it), and outputs on the right which may impact where you can hang it so as to get the dirty water in.

Medic415
07/18/2006, 03:36 PM
I did measure and I think it will work, I hope anyway. You have been very informative Ty.

Mike.

Medic415
07/18/2006, 07:01 PM
Thinking about the skimmer I think I pretty much know the answer but would this work for me http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=TZ5311 I don't have alot of room in my sump, unless I place it in my refugium area. In my sump pictured above in this thread I have the return to the bottom right chamber, the next chamber to the left is a media chamber/skimmer area (6.25x3 1/8), left side is the refugium area, then top right is the return. Any suggestion?

Mike.

Medic415
09/11/2006, 09:20 AM
O.K., just about ready, ordered a Aqua C Urchin skimmer yesterday and will hopefully be starting the cycle next Thurs. 9/21. Couple of questions first. I know it probably is not best, but is it a major no no to use well water for my initial fill or should I get RO/DI water from my LFS? Trying to cut a little cost and save maybe $25.00. Will be purchasing a RO/DI unit probalby in a month, got to get some Rock first. Which brings me to these two choices:

1- http://www.marinedepotlive.com/fiji-...ive-rock-.html

2- http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...cfm?pCatId=397

or does someone have any other suggestions in this price range, looking for like 40-45lbs. , I am getting 20lbs. from my LFS, part of system he offered, but his prices are $6.99/lbs. for Premium Figi and $7.99/lbs. for Tonga deep.

Marine Depot shipping is included in final price and Foster/Smith it came to like $180.00 with shipping. Probably gonna orders Tuesday 9/19 and get it Thurs. Hopefully anyway.

But anyway any input would be great.

Mike.