Cutting Stand to Insert a Sump

[migston]

Here is a picture of my current sump/fuge.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/62340100_2505.jpg

It works just fine for my current setup of a remora skimmer and a 1400 mL Kent Aquadoser. However I'm getting real tired of having to refill my aquadoser 3-4 times a day and having to top off every day because my return section is so small. Also, I can never upgrade my skimmer or get a calcium reactor because there is simply no room anywhere the way my system is configured.

So I'd like to take a 30g tank, silicone some baffles to it and what not to make a new sump. Not only will it hold more water and allow me to use a bigger skimmer and/or CA reactor, it will take up less room to boot.

The only hitch is that a 30g tank will not fit in those openings. So I've got a real dilemma. I found hope on melev's highly instructional site because of this page. http://melevsreef.com/install_sump.html

My only real concern is wether or not I can replicate his success. Here are some pictures of my stand's interior.

Here is the back corner:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/62340100_2502.jpg

and here is the front corner:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/62340100_2503.jpg

What worries me is that I don't really see any bracing anywhere on the side of the stand. It looks like the entire side is made up of a single peice of wood. So as far as I can tell, the stand's side is not decorative but also acts as structural integrity.

The dimensions of the stand are roughly 48x16x30. If I cut say a 13lx17h hole in the side of the stand in order to fit the 30g in, is there a chance that the stand could fail?

I'd really like some assurance that this can be pulled off before I start getting my new sump and what not together.

[reefnetworth]

suggestion? why not tripple the amount in the Kent, reduce output by 1/3? install a float valve with direct plumbing from water source? cuts the time not the stand! REEF-ON!!!

[CAreefer]

This may or may not help you, but what I did on my 75 gallon was to take the center brace between the 2 doors out. The way my stand (just like the one in Marc's website, oceanic I believe) was constructed, I just had to hack saw through a couple staples at the top, and pull it up from the base. It is removable and didn't affect the structural integrity of the stand. I can remove it to remove/replace the sump and then put it back. I did this with a tank full of water over 7 years ago and have had the brace in and out hundreds (it seems) of times.

HTH
CAReefer

[migston]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7586364#post7586364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CAreefer
This may or may not help you, but what I did on my 75 gallon was to take the center brace between the 2 doors out. The way my stand (just like the one in Marc's website, oceanic I believe) was constructed, I just had to hack saw through a couple staples at the top, and pull it up from the base. It is removable and didn't affect the structural integrity of the stand. I can remove it to remove/replace the sump and then put it back. I did this with a tank full of water over 7 years ago and have had the brace in and out hundreds (it seems) of times.

HTH
CAReefer

I was considering this method too. It does make sense for the 4 corners to be holding all the weight of the tank. For some reason though, the center brace on my tank is really wide. Could that be an indicator that it is there for structural support?

[sjm817]

That looks very much like my stand. Same design, same staples. Piece of cake.

Here is how I did it (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=708262)

[melev]

Migston, your stand looks strong enough to do it as you planned, via the side. Once you are done, you can reinsert the piece and even fill in the gap created by the saw blade to renew the support. The weight is transferred straight down, and the board being back in position will carry that weight again.

Now if you planned on moving the stand a few times, there would be a bigger risk of it being weakened, but using wood glue, screws and some wood inside to secure the panel again - I believe it would be plenty strong again.

sjm817's method works perfectly, as you can see. However, the saw that he used did leave a thin gap (1/16" to 1/8") that the blade cut out of the material. When he repositioned it back in the stand, the horizontal section had dipped down enough that he couldn't see that gap.

This is why I didn't cut mine out of my 55g stand, but instead removed the screws and tapped it out with a hammer and block. I wanted to keep the length of that board intact.

[sjm817]

I didn't have screws. It has the same big staples as Migston shown in his pic. I'd be willing to bet its the same stand mfgr. I've had the center piece out for a full day with no ill effect. I really like that it is now removable. I just keep it wedge fit in the stand. Is is great when doing work under the tank. I just yank it out and put it back in when I'm done. You will also note that there is NO center support in the rear of the stand. If it were structural, wouldn't you think there would be one front and back?

I think it is just there to fill the gap between the doors. Cosmetic part.

[migston]

I'm leaning more toward cutting the center piece because it seems easier and will look better once all is put back in place. Also, isn't the weight of a tank supposed to be distributed between the four corners? If that's the case, then shouldn't the load on the middle be minimal?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7588074#post7588074 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sjm817
I didn't have screws. It has the same big staples as Migston shown in his pic. I'd be willing to bet its the same stand mfgr. I've had the center piece out for a full day with no ill effect. I really like that it is now removable. I just keep it wedge fit in the stand. Is is great when doing work under the tank. I just yank it out and put it back in when I'm done. You will also note that there is NO center support in the rear of the stand. If it were structural, wouldn't you think there would be one front and back?

I think it is just there to fill the gap between the doors. Cosmetic part.

Actually my stand does have an identical piece of wood on the back. If not, I would have simply moved the tank and stand out a little and inserted the sump from the back. Does that change anything at all?

But yeah you're right about the staples. I look at my stand and I wonder how it can hold my tank at all because there are no cross braces anywhere and the four walls are made of single panels of that multi layer wood.

[MJAnderson]

IF you want to be safe, get 3 2x4 and make an "L" out of 2 of them. Place the one leg behind your stand on the floor with the other part of the "L" under your tank. It should stick out through your doors in the front. Use the 3rd to brace the top like sjm did. Use a car jack to jack up the 2x4 that is sticking out your door. remove the brace that is going up and down. Slide your new sump in. Add the center brace back. Lower jack. Remove.

This is just if you're the overly cautious type like me. Mine is a bowfront and I'm not sure how much weight that brace is supporting. Probably not an issue, but what if it is?