View Full Version : Microbubbles new sump new ideas

06/22/2006, 11:09 PM
Well after my thread i posted a few days ago I received some good tips from people. I went out and bought a rubbermaid 30 gallon sump. 12.00 much better then the tidepool 2 149.00.

I tried the bucket baffle trick 2 ways 1st way was just the bucket with the drilled holes on the bottom that did not work. Then i put another bucket inside the first with out holes, the water filled the first bubket then flowed down to the outer bucket.

Still microbubbles. Then trying to keep positive i took some 50 micron pading and went around the whole inside of the bucket..yep you guessed it microbubbles. I did get a great idea from a fellow here who suggested a check valve that works great even though it cost me 38.00 no place sold them i had to get it online.

So i have a bigger sump almost a foot longer and 2 inches wider with the same problem, there is very little flow and the bubbles can only be seen with a flashlight, you know the bubbles that just float around in the sump and refuse th pop.

So i am open to more suggestions and still keeping a positive atitude, someone also told me to cap the durso pipe in the overflow but i dont think that would be a great idea.

Here is a pic of the new setup


06/23/2006, 01:55 AM

Heres my sump at 100% operation, no microbubbles from overflow, no durso, no noise!

Heres the method:


06/23/2006, 09:17 AM
how much flow do you have going into the sump? that setup requires a return behind the tank correct?

06/23/2006, 12:33 PM
Right now, I would say about 300-400gph, but I can turn off the phosban reactors and open the valve completely and have the eheim 1262 on full and still have no microbubbles. All I would have to do is re-adjust the gate valve and its good to go, I had a ball valve there but its a lot more screwing around, the gate valve is really accurate and easy.

Yes it requires plumbing behind the tank unless you have 3 holes in your overflow.

06/27/2006, 11:26 AM
i would have to second subzero's emotion...
that overflow method solves mult probs (if you can pull off the plumbing)...
i absolutely LOVE this method.
BTW if you do decide to plumb this, i would HIGHLY suggest you bite the bullet & get/find/order a gate valve right off the bat...
unless you wanna spend days tuning the ball valve, getting close many times, and finally redoing the plumbing with a gate...
save yourself the frustration & dont be like me... get a gate valve right outta the gate (im really sorry for that, but alas i had to).

i have a little more info here:

that might help.

another thing to check for is poorly cemented (just an idea--im not attacking your plumbing skills young jedi ;) ) pvc joints... these can sometimes suck air into your lines = microbubbles...
a quick (well kinda depending on whatcha got under there) test/short term fix, would be to hit the joints with some silicon, see if that fixes anything & if it does, welllllll...

you also really have to watch your skimmer... the above post has what i run, although today has been deemed redo sump day for me (god bless being your own boss) & i wanna get rid of the sock all together as im not a fan of mech filtration but i guarantee these socks will kill any microbubbles... they are like kryptonite to superman... only, well, microbubbles...

there is also another trick on that post about plumbing your outlets on the smaller bucket to force the water up instead of toward your pump intakes... this method helps a little but i dont know exactly how much, just fun to do if you like f'ing with stuff all the time like me.

you can also try putting your return pump in a bucket with "intake" holes at the bottom facing AWAY from the skimmer outlet & overflows entering the sump... this might help, but if there are tons of suspended bubbles in the sump, well htey will just go right through the holes into the return...

hope this helps... if not i will put on my thinking cap & try again...
...now if only i can find that darn cap...