How do you disasemble a glass tank?

[Ixthys]

Any ideas how to separate the siliconed joints?

I've tried razor blades and a piece of wire, but not sure it's worth the effort.

Are there any chemicals?

[Michael L.]

I don't know of any aquarium safe chemicals, but if you are willing to rinse like a madman, I strongly recommend "Goof-off." It strips off almost any adhesive.

Razor blades are probably the most commonly tool used for this job though.

[Ti]

nothing takes off silicn, not even goof off.
U'll need to cut /scrape

[elliotklinger]

Take a hammer and smash it :rollface: JK

You could try using thin guitar wire and run it between the glasses.

[coralnut99]

I've taken apart a bunch of tanks. I wish I knew of something. I tried acetone recently, to no avail. A fresh straight razor blade seems like the only way.

[coralnut99]

Just re-read your post. The best way I've found to dismantle a tank is with some stainless steel tape that dentists use. I had gotten bunches of the stuff years ago. It's incredibly thin material that has great tensile strength. I start by just getting a staight razor through the first inch of the silicone joint to open it a bit. Then with needle-nose pliers on either side of the silicone joint. I run the tape through the joint, holding the pliers as close to the glass as possible. It may break once, but if I hold it real tight to the glass as I run it down the seal, it takes a minute, tops. I just dimantled a cracked 125 in about an hour. I can mail you some if you email me your mailing address.

[NeuroLarry]

I had to take the back off my tank b/c I broke it and it was a PITA, I talked to the guy who made it for me and the only thing that works is a razor blade. I suggest you use gloves as well. If the joints are really tight it is difficult but once you get it started I found that if you left one blade in and gradually worked your way down the joint it was helpful. Good Luck!

[Ixthys]

Thanks, guys.

I think that stainless steel tape may be the best idea. I worked on the tank for an hour or two last night with a razor blade and made minimal progress. Then I tried a piece of wire. In the places where the silicone was thick, a piece of wire worked great. But as soon as it got to a thin area where the glass was really close, the wire either got stuck or broke.

[coralnut99]

Neurolarry makes a good point about leaving one blade in the top of the joint. What I found to work best was cutting off the inside silicone bead with a single edge razor, so you're only cutting through the silicone between the glass panes at any given point. Then start cutting through the top with the single-edge blade. Once I'm about an inch or so down, I remove the razor and slide the stainless steel tape in the cut down to where I removed the razor. Then I re-insert the razor blade above the tape and then I just grab the stainless tape with a pair of needle-nose pliers on either side and just zip down the seam. I'll stop to bring the razor down to the tape at one or two points along the way to spread the joint a bit. You could use the vary same principle by using a utility knife blade after you've started the cut with the straight razor since utility knife blades are slightly thicker than single edge razor blades.

[Ixthys]

Well, thanks to the ideas here and some supplies by the generous donation of coralnut99, I've gotten the tank apart.

NOW, how to remove the tiny bit of left-over silicone!! I tried acetone like mentioned above, and it doesn't work. The best thing so far is sandpaper per the recommendation of coralnut99, but it is a very slow and tedious process and scratches the tank.

So, if anyone has a magic chemical that disolves silicone, please post!

[Ixthys]

I just pulled this off the GE website:

"It is VERY difficult to remove silicone from a surface. However, if you must remove it, follow the suggestions below.

On Smooth, Non-porous Surfaces
To remove silicone sealant from surfaces, first remove as much as possible by cutting/peeling/scraping excess sealant from surface.

For ceramic tile, marble, Formica, fiberglass, etc., use 100% mineral spirits (turpentine) and a non-abrasive scouring pad. Test solvent on a hidden area of the surface to ensure that discoloration will not occur. If discoloration does occur, contact the manufacturer of the surface for further assistance.
For glass surfaces, use a razor blade to remove as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess with a towel or other suitable cleaning utensil that will not mar the surface, i.e., non-abrasive pad.
NOTE: For surfaces such as hard plastics or painted surfaces, including cars, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth. Do not use mineral spirits.

Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed.

On Rough, Porous Surfaces
To remove silicone from a porous/rough surface, (concrete, brick, wallpaper) remove as much as possible (same as smooth surface). If necessary, use a wire brush in conjunction with mineral spirits.

NOTE: We do not recommend use of a wire brush to remove sealant from wood surfaces, as so doing could damage the wood. Also, mineral spirits should not be used if the wood has any type of finish on it. Test solvent on a hidden area before applying. Mineral spirits are flammable and should be used away from sparks, flames and other sources of ignition. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed.

NOTE: There is nothing that will dissolve silicone. If reapplying silicone to the area, remove the old sealant. Then clean the area with a disinfectant if mold or mildew is present, apply rubbing alcohol. Let dry before re-applying silicone."

[coralnut99]

Remember that I recommended a VERY fine grade of sandpaper. I use a 360 grit. On the viewing surfaces the idea isn't to remove the silicone with the sandpaper, but to simply scuff it, so the tiniest traces will be highlighted, and you can get it off with a fresh razor blade. You also shouldn't let the paper stary too far onto the viewing area, since if you get carried away, you can scuff the viewing area.
On the very edges, you can use a lower grit paper to actually remove it. But you should use a sanding block, so you don't wrap the paper over as you sand, and scratch the glass with the lower grit paper.

[NeuroLarry]

I just kept working at it with a razor blade. I found the key was to buy lots of blades and change frequently. Once you develop a plane between the silicone and the glass if goes pretty well.

[coralnut99]

Absolutely, the fresher the blade, the more cleanly and completely, the silicone's removed. The sandpaper thing was just to highlight and spots I missed. It just makes every little spot very visible.

[Ixthys]

Yes, the sandpaper definitely makes it more visible and fresh blades are key as well.

Thanks again for all the advice.