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sphelps
06/30/2006, 04:38 PM
I've been seeing some plywood tanks being built with a product called drylock:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=725888&sid=1d02c09d23c0ce54db20158b9d73282b
http://pvelasco.net/CAASBBS/viewtopic.php?t=2324


basically it's a concrete sealer, it can be tinted, it's easy to work with, no toxic fumes like the expoxy, readily available and cheap.

I've been thinking about doing a 200 gallon triangle corner tank, only problem it would have to be built on site so the expoxy paint is out for sure.

I'm curious if this drylock is salt safe, if it will last, and basically if it's just a good or bad idea.

Any thoughts??

sphelps
06/30/2006, 04:40 PM
Also if anyone knows of any other alternatives to the expoxy I would love to here some.

Thanks

RandyStacyE
06/30/2006, 07:18 PM
sphelps,

I would definitely NOT use Drylock. I know all about that junk and that is exactly what it is, junk. I applied some Drylock to some plastic sheet, let it dry and after a day or two peeled it off. It seemed flexible and pliable at first, but every day that went by it became harder and much more brittle. After about a month or so it became extremely brittle just like an egg shell. If you flex it at all it will snap.

On their label or maybe on their website there is a phone # to their tech support. I called them and asked them a few questions.

#1 – I asked them if Drylock was 100% waterproof. I mean absolutely waterproof etc… They said NO.

#2 – After my little test I decided to see if they would B.S. me. I asked them if Drylock was flexible enough to resist movement of a structure. They said NO.

I was actually kind of pleased to find out that they didn’t B.S. me but I could tell that they were not at all happy that I asked them those specific questions. From there I found www.sanitred.com and used these materials. I would definitely go a different rout than Drylock.

sphelps
06/30/2006, 07:45 PM
Thanks for the info Randy! That's what I wanted to hear about drylock.

I was at home depot today and I saw a product called BLUE SEAL.

"Blue Seal is a technologically advanced, elastomeric, water based, one-step liquid applied, rubber membrane designed to stop water & air transmission providing maximum waterproofing for the I.C.F (Insulated Concrete Form), concrete & wood foundation, and flooring industries. Blue Seal forms a seamless, monolithic, waterproof barrier that can be applied quickly and easily."

"It cures to a seamless, impermeable, non-deteriorating flexible rubber membrane that seals out moisture, Radon gases, algae, mold, fungus and insects. Blue Seal has excellent surface adhesion, bridges cracks, waterproofs and seals surfaces completely"

Any thoughts on this stuff?

sphelps
06/30/2006, 07:52 PM
http://www.bluesealwaterproofing.com/

2farNorth
06/30/2006, 08:36 PM
Yes, I would stay away from drylock, I've tried using it different ways, always seemed to have problems...

Sherwin Williams has a product called 'Envirolastic' potable water/food beverage tank coatings.. may want to look into it.....

samtheman
07/01/2006, 03:13 AM
I have seen leaking boats sprayed with the material used in Rino Truckbed liners. They don't leak and hold up well to abuse.

RandyStacyE
07/01/2006, 07:47 AM
I don't know much about that blueseal. I checked their MSDS but not much info is there. I found their tech data here:
http://www.bluesealwaterproofing.com/resources/pdf/BlueSealTechData.pdf

Elongation:
Blueseal - 340%
Sani-Tred - 590%

% Solids:
Blueseal - 51%
Sani-Tred - 92%

Tensil Strength:
Blueseal - 390 psi
Sani-Tred - 2,030 psi

These are just some of the most important physical qualities to look for.

A Sani-Tred Video Demo:
http://www.sanitred.com/videos/files/vid1.mpg

When it comes to a polyurea (spray bed liner) it requires sophisticated “plural component” (side A, side B) spray equipment. The products MUST be sprayed at a specific ratio or the product doesn’t cure. Polyureas are typically kept at a specific temperature (heated lines or heated drums) in order to be sprayed properly. Polyureas do not bond well old-to-new. In other words once they stop spraying they can not stop until it is done. If they spray it again it won’t bond without first abrading the surface, solvent wipe and/or a primer. Polyureas cure very very fast so this limits their adhesion. Yes their though but an “ideal” waterproofing material; not in my opinion. I know a guy who had a tank sprayed and it leaked, he called the applicators back and they said no problem bring it back. They prepared the surface and gave it another shot. It still wouldn’t hold water. I’m sure this was due to the inexperience of the applicator and the spattered texture of the material leaving little holes throughout the tank.

Chihuahua6
07/01/2006, 06:58 PM
Randy can you tell me about the tank you built using Sanitred? I looked at your website but the tank pictures aren't up yet. I seem to recall you having a larger plywood tank but I read so many plywood tank posts that I can't remember who had what.
BTW your kids are adorable.

Russ Braaten
07/01/2006, 09:09 PM
Drylock is NOT made to work with plastics. It has to penetrate the material it is applied to and then it expands to stop the leakage. If the tank was made out of cement I would consider using it but certainly not on plastic. I do like drylock for the inside of hood and stands. The white is quite reflective and it keeps the wood dry.

As far as the spray on Rino bedliner goes, That stuff in incredible. They are now using it to blast proof concrete walls.

I like the idea of using epoxy along the wooden seams

RandyStacyE
07/02/2006, 08:30 AM
Russ Braaten,

I didn't expect Drylock to adhere to the plastic. I only did that so I could peel it off and try to bend it to see what would happen. As I expected it cracked.

Drylock was originally intended to waterproof basements, but it can not even do that. Their tech guy said "Drylock will not stop efflorescence from reoccurring". Efflorescence is a white powdery deposit left behind after water enters through the foundation and then dries up. Now if Drylock can’t stop efflorescence from reoccurring after it has been applied, then Drylock is not waterproof. I just wouldn’t trust it.

Drylock is just a cement with either a oil based or latex additive.

RandyStacyE
07/02/2006, 08:44 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7665691#post7665691 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chihuahua6
Randy can you tell me about the tank you built using Sanitred? I looked at your website but the tank pictures aren't up yet. I seem to recall you having a larger plywood tank but I read so many plywood tank posts that I can't remember who had what.
BTW your kids are adorable.

Thanks, I'm a proud parent. The site is definitely a work in progress, I’m still learning. The DIY skimmer page will be the next page to come online.

Most of my tanks are all glass. I was once found a large round fiberglass tub at a local fiberglass fabricator that I wanted to use as a propagation tank. The only problem was that it didn’t have a bottom. I was able to pick that up real cheap. I just set it on a sheet of ¾” plywood and used the tub as a stencil, cut out the plywood circle and dropped the circle inside the fiberglass tub.

I then found Sani-Tred products and used it to seal the plywood and join it to the fiberglass. It worked wonderfully and saved me a great deal of $$$.