T-5 Array for a 12k to 14k look?

[AslanTheKing]

Ok

I've been reading everything I can on bulb temp and placement to create certain temp looks. Here's my idea, and I am a clueless newbie, for how to setup my soon to be ordered Tek 6 bulb unit for my 90 gallon. I am planning on eventually running a mixed reef with, hopefully once the tank is well-established, a good number of monti's, acros, and other sps. All suggestions and helpful cajole-ing welcome. Try not to snicker too hard though. ;-)

Front

AB+
AB+
AB
GE Starcoat
AB+
UVI SA


Decent? Better ideas? Let me know

Peace

Kevin

[hahnmeister]

I run 6 bulbs over a 40B, and use the following bulbs to get a look that is nearly identical to a pheonix 14,000K...

AB
AB
B+
B+
TrueActinic
TrueActinic

[The Grim Reefer]

I would run the ATI sun pro over the GE if you can find them, better output. If it were me I would do

ATI BP
UVL Super Actinic or ATI Actinic
ATI SUN,
ATI BP
ATI AB or UVL Actinic White
ATI BP

that would give you about the same look Hahn has but a little wider spectrum.

[ChemE]

Grim, have you summarized your PAR findings for T5HO bulbs anywhere or is it scattered around RC?

Thanks Grim

[The Grim Reefer]

For just the 54 watt lamps

ATI Brand

Aquablue 322
Blue Plus 311
Actinic 142
Sun 340

UVL

Actinic White 294
Super Actinic 212

Aquaz

Ocean Pro 329
Blue Pro 249
Sun Pro 306

D&D Guisemann

Aquablue 302
Actinic Plus 248

Helios

Daylight 10K 325
Super Blue 245

Current Sun Paq

10K daylight 301
Blue actinic 252

GE Daylight 319

[ChemE]

Perfect! This information, Greg carrying ATI, and my new 190 being bought all showed up at exactly the right time. I was going to go Geisemann but now that I see the numbers (and can get them from ReefGeek) I'll stick to the ATI's. Thanks Grim.

[The Grim Reefer]

If you plan on straight actinics at all get the UVL. They are a tad bluer than the ATI and have more PAR.

[NewSchool04]

Grim, I haven't ordered bulbs in awhile and maybe you can help me out. I swore the bulbs I used to get were ATI, then Giesemann bought them out but now ATI is back but they are marketing their bulbs differently. I used to have an ATI Aquablue 11K and now ATI is selling an Aquablue Special 12K.
What were the old bulbs we had last year and what name are they under? I've got to get replacements now and everything has been turned upside down!

[The Grim Reefer]

Once upon a time there was a lamp manufacturer called Narva. An Aquarium equipment company called ATI met Narva one day and asked them to make aquarium lamps with ATI's name stamped on them and they both lived happily ever after. Well. not quite. After a time Narva and ATI had a falling out and another company called D&D stepped in and started selling Narva's lamps with their name on it. In the mean time another company named Giesemann got into bed with D&D and started selling Narva's lamps too.

In the mean time ATI found a new lamp manufacturer to build lamps under their brand names. Now they will all live hapily ever after:D

[nyvp]

hey grim what bulb combo will give best par and blue to boost up a xm10k ( 4 bulb t5 )

[The Grim Reefer]

I'd say an ATI sun, aquablue and 2 bluepluses are going to give you the best as far a s looks and PAR. You want to compete with an XM at least have IC reflectors if you are talking a 175 and for 250 use the Ice Cap ballast to overdrive the lamps.

[nyvp]

I have 2 lamps on each side so 1 blueplus and one aqua grim? Yes on the ic reflectors, but do I need to overdrive them to 80 or will the 54's work for 30"?

[The Grim Reefer]

30" tall? Yes Overdrive the lamps.

[NewSchool04]

So Grim if I wanted to re-order bulbs and I wanted the old ATI's that I used would I get the Giesemann or the ATI? Reefgeek.com sells both now.

[The Grim Reefer]

Giesemann.

[NewSchool04]

thanks Grim!

[nyvp]

if its not said enough..... Grim your the best. Thanks for helping the community.

[AslanTheKing]

Many thanks to all!

I just ordered my bulbs from ReefGeek! Ordered precisely what Grim recommended for the look. I may want it a bit whiter, so I might eventually drop in a Geissman AB for one of the ATI B+. Regardless, pray for me folks. I'm about three weeks away from having my first tank set up.

[horkn]

if thats not enough, grim, didnt you say the old GE 6500k days were better than they currently are for PAR?

could you post PAR for the old 6500k starcoat day ge bulb vs the new GE 6500k day?

why msut they make it so confusing. a mere couple months ago the ge was king of PAR.... now it appears the ati sun bulb is. that and there is a big desparity between the geiseman and ati bulbs.

[20 20]

I'll jump in this thread, if you don't mind, with a related question. Would the following bulb configuration be closer to a 10k look, a 12k look, or a 14k look?

Front
B+
AB
B+
GE 6500k
B+
AB
back

This is on a 125 gallon, 6' long, using staggered 60" 80 watt bulbs, with individual tek reflectors, running on two Icecap 660 ballasts.

Even though I have no experiance to base this on, my guess is closer to 10k...

[hahnmeister]

12K

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7810232#post7810232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
if thats not enough, grim, didnt you say the old GE 6500k days were better than they currently are for PAR?

could you post PAR for the old 6500k starcoat day ge bulb vs the new GE 6500k day?

why msut they make it so confusing. a mere couple months ago the ge was king of PAR.... now it appears the ati sun bulb is. that and there is a big desparity between the geiseman and ati bulbs.

The old "starcoat" ge's we king of PAR and I believe Dhock got similar readings to mine. The new GE 6500K is called the "eco plus" and seems to be whiter than the old lamp. The old lamp had surface PAR of 1500 or so vs. 1150 or so for an Aquablue. The new GE 9Using a different measurement methode) came in a 319 compared to 302 for aquablue.

D&D/Giesmann sells the same lamps ATI used to which are made by a company called Narva. During my RC "vacation" I was posting with a guy fromverseas who actually told me the name of the company that is making ATI's new lamps I honestly don't know if it was ATI or Narva that developed the original line of lamps. ATI touts the fact that they narrowed the band on thier Aquablues which they claim will increase the life and output. So far the increased output seems to be for real. I hear they are also coming out with an improved Actinic Blue for their straight actinic lamp.

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7810672#post7810672 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 20 20
I'll jump in this thread, if you don't mind, with a related question. Would the following bulb configuration be closer to a 10k look, a 12k look, or a 14k look?

Front
B+
AB
B+
GE 6500k
B+
AB
back

This is on a 125 gallon, 6' long, using staggered 60" 80 watt bulbs, with individual tek reflectors, running on two Icecap 660 ballasts.

Even though I have no experiance to base this on, my guess is closer to 10k...

12K would probably be a good guess. I ran that combo my own self on a 125 and liked it. I ended up swapping out a blue plus for a pure actinic and liked that look even better. A little less blue and green colors really popped.

[20 20]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7813300#post7813300 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
12K would probably be a good guess. I ran that combo my own self on a 125 and liked it. I ended up swapping out a blue plus for a pure actinic and liked that look even better. A little less blue and green colors really popped.

So a pure actinic is less blue than a blue plus?

[The Grim Reefer]

It puts out less visible light so the effect is you see less blue in the light.

[iamquockie]

i wish i had a 5 or 6 bulb setup so i can have more color options. i have 4 bulb tek and i am stuck with white light.

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7819454#post7819454 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iamquockie
i wish i had a 5 or 6 bulb setup so i can have more color options. i have 4 bulb tek and i am stuck with white light.

Why? Use a ATI sun and 3 Blueplus. You will be plenty blue and still have quite a bit of PAR.