Octopus Skimmer Mods

[Roland Jacques]

Please post your mods. The more the better. Nothing is to small.

Please include photos, and where you buy the parts for your Mod.


THIS THREAD IS ONLY FOR MODIFICATIONS!
If you have skimmer questions (not about the mods) go to.

New Reef Octupus Skimmer Thread (Pacific Coast Imports)http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=7863198#post7863198


So i guess ill start. here's a easy one.

gasket mod
the short venture comes with a gasket that blocks some of the air hole lowes sells a pack of O-rings #18 in the plumbig dept 1-3/16 od x 15/16 id. under $2.00. at Lowes

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050841.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050842.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050847.JPG

[Roland Jacques]

water out-put mod
i put this NW-200 in a 10 gallon tank/sump the water output would spell/ splash over the sides.

1 i cut 2" off the black water overflow tube / outlet (because the wye make your spellway about 2" taller)

i got a 1-1/2" abs pipe and a wye & a 90 at lowes about $9.00 total
i glued the wye onto about 3" of pipe, in the and then just pressed th other pieces together.
i put silicone on the base of the wye and the some on the 3" piece . and stuck it inside the org tube.

it works great no splashing. their was a slight gurgle sound very slight. i put a air line hose (yellow in photo) into the top of the wye opening and the sound was gone.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050806.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050850.JPG

[advena]

This is for the DNW-200 (RPS-3000)...
-- I THINK THIS WORKS FOR THE 150/2000 AS WELL--

to convert your handy metric outlet plumbing to US do one of the following:

Best:
get a 1.5" true union & slightly grind down the edges of the insert... pull the metric insert out of the skimmer's union, put the new trimmed insert in & plumb with 1.5" after that. WOOT!!

A bit lower on the Mohs scale of goodness:
take a 1.25" coupler and glue it into the metric union. Perfect fit. Plumb with 1.25" after that.

Even less good on the Mohs scale:
take a rubber sewer converter (the rubber sleeve that comes with 2 stainless steel "screw clamps") that will fit over the metric pipe (basically 2") and whatever US plumbing you use after it.

all this stuff is easy to get at the local hardware store...

have fun!

-scott

[KillaReef]

anyone got anything on making a NW150 into a recirc ?

[Abengochea]

does the oring change make a difference? I was thinking of just not using any gasket

[advena]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7867863#post7867863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KillaReef
anyone got anything on making a NW150 into a recirc ?
nobody i know has done it... mainly due to the difficulity of making it not leak... if you dont care about leakage it should be quite easy...
the mod would depend on the NW you were gonna mod it with.

-scott

[advena]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7868649#post7868649 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Abengochea
does the oring change make a difference? I was thinking of just not using any gasket
as far as air intake, yes it matters... it sounds like the newer models dont have the issues that the older versions had, but on mine the gasket blocked a fair portion of the venturi... once i reamed that gasket out there was a definite difference in bubble density.

i also must say that i didnt exchange the gasket with an o-ring. i put a dab of supa-glue on the gasket, seated it correctly, let it dry for a sec, then cored out whatever rubber covered the venturi hole using a flex-shaft (basically an expensive jewelry "dremel").

if you dont care about leaking, you prolly dont need the gasket, however if you do (out of sump installation) i would suggest it... its super easy to do, so i would do it no matter if its run dry or wet.

-scott

[danskim]

Yes, if you don't use the gasket, I imagine that you will lose some pressure and flow.

[Roland Jacques]

NW_200 elbow mod.
The skimmer I got came with a restrictive 90 degree elbow attached to the union.
The output hole size of the pump is .72" and the attaching 90 hole was .54" (A bottle neck).

At ace hardware I got a cone shape "abrasives" rotary stone "MPC14 540223" 11/16" Diameter. $2.39

at Lowes I got a #15 o-ring kit comes in a pack of 15 or so $2.00

take the stone in a drill motor and use it to ream out the hole a little at a time removing the shaving as you go.
(My concern was going to big and breaking the elbow 11/16" worked out perfect.. if you would rather be safer go 5/8" I use a rotary file with that OD and drilled backwards is safer and the flow increase was the same with both sizes. I may upgrade the pump at a latter time so I went with the max 11/16")


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050788.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050827.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050830.JPG

the results was a 30% increase in air flow to my skimmer when i was using the short venture (the one you see the most)

[scubaduderon]

Exactly what surface did you change?

Thank you,
Ron


s=&postid=7874000#post7874000 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques [/i]
NW_200 elbow mod.
The skimmer I got came with a restrictive 90 degree elbow attached to the union.
The output hole size of the pump is .72" and the attaching 90 hole was .54" (A bottle neck).

At ace hardware I got a cone shape "abrasives" rotary stone "MPC14 540223" 11/16" Diameter. $2.39

at Lowes I got a #15 o-ring kit comes in a pack of 15 or so $2.00

take the stone in a drill motor and use it to ream out the hole a little at a time removing the shaving as you go.
(My concern was going to big and breaking the elbow 11/16" worked out perfect.. if you would rather be safer go 5/8" I use a rotary file with that OD and drilled backwards is safer and the flow increase was the same with both sizes. I may upgrade the pump at a latter time so I went with the max 11/16")


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050788.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050827.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050830.JPG

the results was a 30% increase in air flow to my skimmer when i was using the short venture (the one you see the most) [/QUOTE]

[Roland Jacques]

I made the hole larger. On the 90 that attaches to the pump.

i should of just said that in the first place:)

[tm613]

note the gasket mod is only for the recirc models...no gasket is needed for the non-recirc

[scaryperson27]

I performed the gasket mod then the nipple where you put the air pipe on the venturi broke off. So i just shoved the air pipe in the intake. Workes just as good with less flow restriction ;)

[scaryperson27]

I tried my hand at the recirculation mod... Well, it was a failure. I
was drilling a 3/4" hole in the side of the body when the acrylic snap
crackeled poped and left me with a 3" hole. I have this duct tape that
is like 12" wide and used that and some plastic to seal it up for the
time being. I am so mad at myself. If anyone wants a oceanrunner 2700
for a price just send me a PM. I am planning to buy another nw-150 and
replace the old NOW MODDED :mad2: one. The thing is only like 3 weeks
old so if there are any other parts also you would like for a price just
send a PM. If you are going to try the recirc mod, an extra pump would
be usable hint hint.

Will
sell MY pump for $50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/OCEAN-RUNNER-2700-NEEDLE-WHEEL-SKIMMER-PUMP_W0QQitemZ7765531073QQihZ018QQcategoryZ46313QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6250/img0353ub7.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0353ub7.jpg)
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6522/img0355qx8.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0355qx8.jpg)
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/544/img0356pf4.th.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0356pf4.jpg)
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/8936/img0359zc7.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0359zc7.jpg)


Man I'm steamed.

Mike

[Ereefic]

Ugh! That sucks scaryperson27. :(

Maybe those thinking of modding the NW skimmers to make them recirc., should think about just buying the recirc right off the bat. Might be cheaper than buying 1, breaking it and then buying another.

[D-Rod]

Scaryperson27,
What is that little grey tube that you have in th first pic.
and what is it used for? i have one but i don't know where to put it.

[Roland Jacques]

sorry to hear about your skimmer cracking. drilling plastic is a touchy thing. i would try to run the drill backwards on thin or small things pieces, bring careful not melt things.

isnt that pump the OTP 2000 it is probably not identical to the OR2700. FWIW i think your not supose to try and sell stuff in these threads.

[KEstep]

Ouch that sucks man. I have (fortunately) drilled 5 superskimmers (10 holes) and have not cracked a thing.. You have to go sloooooooooowwwwww when drilling acrylic and let the drill do its thing.

[scaryperson27]

Yep, I think I found that out the hard way. Well I'm looking into some new skimmers

I could not post in the seller forums because I have not been a member for more than 90 days. I didn't mean to sound like a chinese supermarket.

I thought It was the same as the 2700. Meh whatever. It is a good pump thats less than a month old that what it is.

[Roland Jacques]

scaryperson27
i just found out that i could blow up your pictures. what kind of drill bit were you using to drill that hole?

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7881311#post7881311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scaryperson27


Will
sell MY pump for $50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/OCEAN-RUNNER-2700-NEEDLE-WHEEL-SKIMMER-PUMP_W0QQitemZ7765531073QQihZ018QQcategoryZ46313QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/8936/img0359zc7.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0359zc7.jpg)


Man I'm steamed.

Mike

This can be fixed. It may seem bad now and it will never look pretty, but it is not impossible. I'd come over there and help you out but it's a little far :p . If you want to give it a shot let me know and I (and others I'm sure) would walk you through the process. Otherwise send me a PM for the whole kitten kaboodle to 22301 and I'll fix it and give it to a club member who needs a skimmer and doesn't care how it looks.

[scaryperson27]

I bought another body from Aquacave. Hopefully it will get here soon in one piece. I need to get a skimmer back on my system. Thankfully right now it had a very low bioload and will do okay without a skimmer for a week or so but I don't sleep easy at night not knowing the waterquality my tank is used to is not there. Stupid move on my part. I was using your average joe 3/4" drill bit but not on reverse and not slow. I was thinking "ahh this will be a sinch to drill".. Well... yeah.

[hahnmeister]

I was thinking that the riser assembly, cup, etc could be taken off, and the body swapped out for a piece of acrylic/PVC pipe... easier to drill some new unions then... and then away you go...

Or heck, you could even do a prug style jug skimmer with the collection cup and pump... all you ruined its the body... not that big a deal...

I think the main reason nobody has bothered with modding is because its not that much more to just buy one that is recirculating in the first place...

[Avast Marine]

Thats good they were able to sell you just the body. Glad to hear you'll be up and running soon. I couldn't sleep for the last 2 weeks with no skimmer on my system so I know how you feel.

[greenstarman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7881571#post7881571 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by D-Rod
Scaryperson27,
What is that little grey tube that you have in th first pic.
and what is it used for? i have one but i don't know where to put it.


That goes on the air intake. It's their method of a silencer.

[greenstarman]

I just recieved a NW110 and it came with the two gaskets but only used the one on the 90 after the pump. The other on the intake of the pump I left out. So its not needed?

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7885867#post7885867 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scaryperson27

I bought another body from Aquacave.

I was using your average joe 3/4" drill bit but not on reverse and not slow. I was thinking "ahh this will be a sinch to drill".. Well... yeah.

GOOD to no we can easily get replacment parts. i call for a price on a taller cup havent heard anything yet.

i just wanted to no if it was a drill Bit (which will not work) a Spade Bit (which will also not work) or a hole saw which should work( when in doubt drill backwards).

I, going to try drilling mine when my new OTP 2000NW pump gets here. (How much are those bodys :rolleyes: you never know)

greenstarman

If you have the in-sump the venture gasket is not critical with the short venture. the New Octopus Skimmer thread can better answer that kind of questions.

New Reef Octupus Skimmer Thread (Pacific Coast Imports)http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...198#post7863198

This thread only about modifacations and performance tips, , the What to do, How to do, Where to buy the parts, AND what Not to do. so people can easily find that info. i guess that was kinda a performce tip.

[scaryperson27]

It was an $80 mistake...

[RichConley]

scayperson, just take a piece of 1/8" acrlic, heat it up a little, and shape it to the body. A little bit of weldon, and it'll work fine.

[scaryperson27]

Yup, I guess I will do that and keep that body as a spare. What do you heat it up with a heat gun?

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7892274#post7892274 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
scayperson, just take a piece of 1/8" acrlic, heat it up a little, and shape it to the body. A little bit of weldon, and it'll work fine.

This is exactly what I would do. Well not exactly....use 1/4" and mark and drill the holes for the recirc pump. Because its thicker your gonna need to find a 6" round tube to mold it too (Co2 tank). Then when you bend it it will warp the holes slightly, sand em out, throw on you uniseals, and you got your mod. Now you can play with it in your spare time with a running skimmer on your tank and not feel rushed.

[greenstarman]

Why not use either a Forstner bit or a decent sized Brad Point bit? A standard drill bit is usually meant for steel. If drilling holes in wood, laminate, and you want it fairly decent use the two mentioned.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7892375#post7892375 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
This is exactly what I would do. Well not exactly....use 1/4" and mark and drill the holes for the recirc pump. Because its thicker your gonna need to find a 6" round tube to mold it too (Co2 tank). Then when you bend it it will warp the holes slightly, sand em out, throw on you uniseals, and you got your mod. Now you can play with it in your spare time with a running skimmer on your tank and not feel rushed.

I said 1/8 only because it'll hold fine, and is MUCH easier to get to bend, and its readily available at home depot.

I wouldnt use uniseals if I was doing it though, I'd get some 1" square blocks of acrylic, sand them so they fit the curve of the skimmer, drill a hole through them, and then tap them for 1" NPT.

[Roland Jacques]

i think a holesaw is the safest way. The 2 bits you mentioned would work on PVC pipe but i would not try it with thin, round, acrylic. Acrylic thin and round is britle IMO. if you used something that works better let us know.

[scaryperson27]

Thank you for your input guys.

[mstng67]

I'm not sure if this has been posted yet, but it appears that Marine solutions has the Gate Valve Mod kits available now for the NW110 and the NW150/NW200 for 29.99 and 37.99 respectively.

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7911325#post7911325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mstng67
I'm not sure if this has been posted yet, but it appears that Marine solutions has the Gate Valve Mod kits available now for the NW110 and the NW150/NW200 for 29.99 and 37.99 respectively.

Link?

[Abengochea]

http://www.marinesolutionsinc.com/catalog/shopping_cart.php?osCsid=3fa2a7d730a5a48f157f265c243b6329

heres the link for the gate valve

[Avast Marine]

from their site:

http://www.marinesolutionsinc.com/catalog/images/OctopusGateValveKitL.jpg

[tm613]

what size pipe is that?

[BigJPDC]

could that be any easier to make? The only question I have is if you need to add some kind of bubble-diffusing solution, or is the return below water level?

jp

[BigJPDC]

and it is funny that they omitted the pvc size from their directions. If mine wasn't in a box it would be easy to check against 3/4 and 1" pipes.

jp

[tm613]

return below water adds back pressure, many put a filter sock below the exit pipe

[Avast Marine]

I ordered my gate valve from savko yesterday. I will post pics when I mod it. Out of curiosity what is the reasoning for the Tee at the riser pipe vs. just a 90 Ell?

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7913181#post7913181 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
I ordered my gate valve from savko yesterday. I will post pics when I mod it. Out of curiosity what is the reasoning for the Tee at the riser pipe vs. just a 90 Ell?

It's a vent.

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7913249#post7913249 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
It's a vent.

Is it really needed? I was thinking just putting the gate valve on and running a pipe vertical with the foam sleaves on it. Just like the way it comes only with a gate valve. As long as the top of the pipe is lower than the bottom of the union I don't see any issues or am I missing something?

[Ereefic]

I don't think it will work right without the vent, but I could be wrong. I'm sure someone who knows for sure will chime in.

[tm613]

Your hand would still get wet when you turned the valve..the idea is to rid yourself of the sponges...you can also plumb the exit in any direction you want

[nemo g]

question i posted in the ro thread, but thought the mod section would be a good spot for it...

regarding the use of air pumps to help push more lph.

when i asked the question in the past, the answer i was given was that a pump can only take a certain amount of air before it cavitates.

however, there seems to be plenty of room for more air in regards to the ocean runner pumps, unless they are somehow inferior in this capacity to the sedras used by euroreef.

<strong>water flow/ air intake

er sedra 3500 350ghp/440lph
er sedra 5000 500gph/660lph
vs
ro nw150 630gph/400lph
ro nw200 900gph/600lph</strong>

as the numbers show (if accurate) the ocean runner pumps are sucking less air than even their smaller sedra counterparts. other than changing the impeller which would either be: impossible, difficult/pia, or just too pricey, why not help it out with a little "push".

remember, the air pump isnt meant to push 50gph of air into the ocean runner, but instead, just help it out to achieve the same numbers put out by the comparative version of euroreef's sedra-impeller combo.

thoughts?

[Avast Marine]

I like the vertical exit, and am not against the sponges. This setup actaully works quite well. If it needs a vent do you think it would work to put the tee below the gate valve like this............

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/211947858/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/63/211947858_fc59a48917_o.jpg" width="800" height="700" alt="skim" /></a>

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7914501#post7914501 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tm613
Your hand would still get wet when you turned the valve..the idea is to rid yourself of the sponges...you can also plumb the exit in any direction you want

Thats not the only issue, the valve is also getting wet. Some of them have metal shafts for the knob, and I'd rather not have that underwater.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7914808#post7914808 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nemo g

<strong>water flow/ air intake

er sedra 3500 350ghp/440lph
er sedra 5000 500gph/660lph
vs
ro nw150 630gph/400lph
ro nw200 900gph/600lph</strong>
thoughts?

Nemo, now you get into the fun part of skimmer design.

The reason is that the ER/Deltec/H&S pumps (and Aquamedic x700 pumps) all seem to have modified volutes with larger intakes and outputs. The OTP pumps are essentially the stock line of OR pumps, ie the x500 series, with a NW jammed in them.

What this allows is a better mix., as well as more water in/out (the otp3000 moves NOWHERE near 900gph with air, its like 300gph). Thats what I've been working on with mine. I've seriously opened up the output and input on the pump, and the air intake has gone up a huge amount. I just need to wait for the new flowmeter to get here before I can give numbers.

[ghever]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7911807#post7911807 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
from their site:

http://www.marinesolutionsinc.com/catalog/images/OctopusGateValveKitL.jpg

You mean to tell me i put the gate valve on the wrong part of the T?

I have mine on the under side of the T, between it and the skimmer....is that wrong place for it?

G

[RichConley]

It really shouldnt matter all that much. The point is to be able to adjust the water level with the valve, without making it a siphon line.

[tm613]

under the t is fine, that is how every other one I have ever seen was done...

[D-Rod]

How will it run just out of the box??



I have a light bio-load, are these mods better for a heavier bio-load???

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7915163#post7915163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by D-Rod
How will it run just out of the box??



I have a light bio-load, are these mods better for a heavier bio-load???

Just fine D-Rod. What size tank?

[D-Rod]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7915224#post7915224 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Just fine D-Rod. What size tank?



75 gal tank
20 gal sump
85 lbs LR
2 percs
1 yellow tang
2 cleaner shrimp
40+ snails

with a few more fish down the road.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7914906#post7914906 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley


I've seriously opened up the output and input on the pump, and the air intake has gone up a huge amount. I just need to wait for the new flowmeter to get here before I can give numbers.

Pictures Please

PS. get a l/m flow meter. if you can (unless it is free;) ) i have 3 scfh flow meters, and my numbers dont jive with anyone using a LPM on any pump i test? Conversion and all.

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7915955#post7915955 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
Pictures Please

He's holding out on us until his work is done and can measure the results. But one picture couldn't hurt................

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7915977#post7915977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
He's holding out on us until his work is done and can measure the results. But one picture couldn't hurt................

Yeah I no. im not posting any more pictures ether :p

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7914816#post7914816 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
I like the vertical exit, and am not against the sponges. This setup actually works quite well. If it needs a vent do you think it would work to put the tee below the gate valve like this............

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/211947858/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/63/211947858_fc59a48917_o.jpg" width="800" height="700" alt="skim" /></a>
This drawing would have no benefit. The tee is to vent your drain, the vent is to prevent siphoning, even a small amount of siphoning will make your water level in your skimmer move up and down. Siphoning only occurs if you have the outlet tube facing down(your drawing is not facing down). The further down the tube goes the it would siphon if you did not have a vent regardless of whether the out let is under water or not.

The gate valve has no benefit with the in sump models. The in sumps come with a sliding drain tube that is sized right. The valve would not make anything any better. On the recirc models sure, it makes sense to have a gate valve over a ball valve. But the sliding tube is foul proof IMO.

The photo below the drain is attached to the sliding tube needs to be vented
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050806.JPG

[tm613]

the gate valve on an in sump model has the following benefits over the sliding riser tube:
- more precise foam height adjustment- it is much easier to turn a dry knob than move a wet tube up and down
- removal of sponges (nitrate factories)
- quieter - can plumb the outlet so that the water doesn't fall as far
- can plumb the outlet wherever you like (away from return pump to minimize bubbles, etc)

None of these reasons will make the skimmer skim better...the gate valve mod is an ease of use upgrade

[nemo g]

has anyone tried modding an nw150, replacing the oceanrunner pump with a euroreef modified sedra?

or just adding any nw pump for recirc?

if not, are there any issues i should be aware of before trying something like this?

[Roland Jacques]

"The gate valve mod is an ease of use upgrade, it is much easier to turn a dry knob than move a wet tube up and down”.

I never thought of it as being easier, but I have to agree with you. I normally don't re-adjust my skimmer that often, but some do, so I get that. Thanks

The 180 sliding tube mod in the photo above gets rid of all those other issues without the valve. With the 180 sliding outlet tube it is easier to adjust than just the wet tube mainly because its dry and has a little leverage. The 180 outlet mod also gets ride of the sponge, splashing and noise and allows you to plumb it to other locations also

I don’t think the gate valve is not more "precise" as far as the stability of the water level in the skimmer goes.

[Avast Marine]

I'm mainly doing it to keep my hands dry. I don't adjust the skimmer all that often but when I do I like to see the adjustment right away rather than the head to collapse from the oil on my hands and then have to wait 2 hours for the skimmer to recover and then try to remember to check the adjustment.
Personally I could care less about the sponge nitrate factory thing, I gotta have something in the tank to stard a QT tank when needed and the tiny amount of nitrates that are on them can easily be processed by my tank. With this skimmer I have substantially lowered the work load for the sandbed so if it can't keep up with some measley sponges.............
I got the rest of the pvc to do the mod when the valve gets here tomarrow and got it rough fit tonight so it should slap together in about 5 min. I'll post pics then.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7917099#post7917099 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nemo g
has anyone tried modding an nw150, replacing the oceanrunner pump with a euroreef modified sedra?

or just adding any nw pump for recirc?

if not, are there any issues i should be aware of before trying something like this?

Thier not Ocean Runner pumps! :rolleyes: thier OTP

you can change out the pump or add a recirc. but remember the neck size 3 1/4" diameter. the Euro reef sedra 5000 would probaly be the biggest i would use. you can get 1 for $125 new, but you cant just bolt it on it requires some DIY skills. the pin wheel mod might just be better and alot easier and cheaper. that and the elbow mod you may get 40% or more, more air out of the OTP3000

[Roland Jacques]

my hands stay dryhttp://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050850.JPG

[nemo g]

roland,

arent both pumps made by the same manufacturer, and for practical purposes, are all but identical??

aqua medic labels theirs ocean runner, octopus, otps.

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7917893#post7917893 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
my hands stay dryhttp://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050850.JPG

Do you have that thing in a 10g???? If so your hands may be dry but not your floor :lol:

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7918368#post7918368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nemo g
roland,

arent both pumps made by the same manufacturer, and for practical purposes, are all but identical??

aqua medic labels theirs ocean runner, octopus, otps.
they are made the same place but they are different.

OTP-3000= 750 gpm, smaller outlet, defferent NW impeller. i can only get to pump 15 SCFH max(with no back pressure). 13 scfh on the skimmer.
OR-3700= 900 gpm, larger outlet, can pump 20SCFH of air(from what i hear)


dandy
it is a remote sump with its own overflow back to the main sump. floor stay dry ;)

[Avast Marine]

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/212894378/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/83/212894378_3b24056160_o.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="gate1" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/212894380/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/95/212894380_c0bf217d63_o.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="gate2" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/212894381/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/98/212894381_14a6ce35f1_o.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="gate3" /></a>

[Avast Marine]

I ground out the inside of the 1 1/2" sanitary T so it would slip onto the riser. Then using a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" rubber slip connecter with the metal clamps removed put one end over the pipe and one over the outside of the T. Since the OD of both pieces was roughly 2" the 1 1/2" rubber slip connector fits SUPER tight, no clamps needed, no cutting needed it's the perfect height. The T on the output is just so I have a place to hang a filter sock (yes it's upside down, I didn't realize it until I was posting the pic's and it is right side up now) with a test cap on the top to prevent splashing.
$22 for the valve
$2 for the rubber connector
$3 for 2 T's
$1 woth of PVC
$.25 for the cap

$28.25 and 5 minutes of my time.

[nemo g]

anyone swap out the otp needle wheel for the ocean runner?

[Avast Marine]

nemo g, what exactly is it about the octo pump that you are not happy with????

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7924557#post7924557 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
nemo g, what exactly is it about the octo pump that you are not happy with????

Oh wait you don't have a octopus skimmer............;)

[nemo g]

just trying to be an informed consumer. im happier that way :D

[BigJPDC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7924567#post7924567 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
Oh wait you don't have a octopus skimmer............;)


lol

[wjhuie]

Anyone done the recirulation mod on the nw200? My new nw 200 and nw150 will be here 8/15 and I am going to buy a oceanruner 3700 and do the recir mod on the nw200 and use the otp3000 to run the nw150.

[BLockamon]

I swapped the Octopus pump with an Ocean Runner 3500 and used the Oct. needlewheel. No change. The Octopus might even have been a tad better. Of courese, 3500 has a smaller outlet than the 37000 (it's identical to the Octopus outlet).

[Roland Jacques]

I did some grinding, dermel style in side the volute impeller housing area. I rounded of the output hole and did a little sanding (very little sanding). It improved air flow about 20%. Their is not much material to work with in their I was very surprised to see that much improvement. The volute is very thin.

This with the 90 elbow mod has increase the air 60% from where it was when I started. on the NW-200
The photos are not that good. I am probably going to sand it some more to polish it up some.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050887.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050885.JPG

[trmiv]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7927580#post7927580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
Anyone done the recirulation mod on the nw200? My new nw 200 and nw150 will be here 8/15 and I am going to buy a oceanruner 3700 and do the recir mod on the nw200 and use the otp3000 to run the nw150.

Interested in this too. I might go a step further and try to run it externally (although sitting in a plastic bin). So who has done the recirc mod on the Nw200? How big is the fitting on the venturi of the pump? Could it be made to seal TIGHTLY with a uniseal? I'm tempted to give making an NW200 into an external recirc model since the RPS-3000 is way too tall for my stand.

[Avast Marine]

The thing that bothered me the most about the gate valve mod is that for a quick visual referance it is not possible to see the exact water level in the neck so......a short piece of 3/16" thinwall a lighter and 2 minutes later.......

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/216101600/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/64/216101600_7889e87e41_b.jpg" width="1024" height="766" alt="DSCN1087" /></a>

May not be a big deal for some but, I like to crank the valve down a full turn or so right before I stick my hands in the tank to super wet skim whats in the neck and this way I can reset the level just right without waiting for the head to build again or guessing if it was a full turn, 3/4 turn whatever, you get the idea.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7929412#post7929412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
I did some grinding, dermel style in side the volute impeller housing area. I rounded of the output hole and did a little sanding (very little sanding). It improved air flow about 20%. Their is not much material to work with in their I was very surprised to see that much improvement. The volute is very thin.

This with the 90 elbow mod has increase the air 60% from where it was when I started. on the NW-200
The photos are not that good. I am probably going to sand it some more to polish it up some.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050887.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050885.JPG

Roland, just wait till you see the air when you replace that whole area with 1" PVC. (I need to get my camera working again)

[Roland Jacques]

Oh come on Rich, you are just a big bubble tees. with no camera

BOO, big bubble tees with no cameras.

HORAY BEER!!!

[wjhuie]

I just got my nw 200 and nw 150 today. I ordered it from Marine Solutions It was shipped out regular ground on monday and arrived today wed at 9:00 awesome They both look great but I hate the cross brace in the nw 200. I was thinking of cutting it out. Does every nw 200 have the cross brace? I also have ordered a gen x 4100 nw I plan on adding to the nw 200. I plan on using the otp 3000 on the nw 150. What do you guys think?

[wjhuie]

Also my nw 200 has a 90 elbow instead of a tee. Could I just replace it with a tee?

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7950956#post7950956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
I just got my nw 200 and nw 150 today. I ordered it from Marine Solutions It was shipped out regular ground on monday and arrived today wed at 9:00 awesome They both look great but I hate the cross brace in the nw 200. I was thinking of cutting it out. Does every nw 200 have the cross brace? I also have ordered a gen x 4100 nw I plan on adding to the nw 200. I plan on using the otp 3000 on the nw 150. What do you guys think?
I wonder where they are getting this older style NW-200 at?

I have no clue as to how you would remove the brace or the 90? Do you have photos? The brace would not bother me at all; in fact I think it could possible help a little in minimizing turbulence. The 90 is pretty restrictive the tees much better IMO, the 90 in the body may be a deal killer for me. If I was going to keep it I would at least take a 12" drill bit and drill a 1/4" hole in the 90 that would relieve most of the back pressure. I drilled smaller holes in my tee mainly to disperse air/water with a little less turbulence it worked good and I think relieved a little backpressure also.

why do you want to change the pumps???

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050891.JPG

[Mirror Pond]

I was trying to clean up the little clear tube that the airline attaches to and I drilled too far so it is now opened up all the way to the intake. I then put it back on the pump and noticed no difference. I then decided to drill the other way (horizontal, from where the washer would be if I used one) to meet the vertical hole and again drilled all the way through the venturi. I put it back on again and besides making more noise, I did not see any difference in performance.

Do you see any problem with this or should I try to order a replacement venturi. I guess I could always try to plug the holes to return it to the original configuration.

I've been running this for a week now on a 120 with 100 lbs of uncured rock and it is not really pulling out anything. The rock was pretty clean for being uncured and has not even showed an ammonia spike yet so maybe there is not anything to pull out.

[RichConley]

Mirror pond, on the NW200, the biggest restriction is the elbow on the pump. Until you open that up some, venturi tweaks wont make a big difference.

[Mirror Pond]

I just wasn't sure if I actually hurt my performance by doing this.

[RichConley]

I'm having a hard time figuring out what you actually did to it. Drilling through it vertically should be plugged up, but not sure about horizontal, where it would be coming out.

[wjhuie]

What size is the elbow is it metric or what?

[Mirror Pond]

I first drilled straight down through the rigid tube all the way through the opening. I then drilled horizontally out through the front. I now has two holes that it did not have before.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7952187#post7952187 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mirror Pond
I first drilled straight down through the rigid tube all the way through the opening. I then drilled horizontally out through the front. I now has two holes that it did not have before.
thats kind of funny, you messed up once, so then you messed up again? No more drilling for you, step away from the tools :lol: kind of like me and spelling.
im kind of suprised it works with the hole in the front. you might try to fill the holes with epoxy or even thickend pvc glue the hole in the front would be my concern.

[Mirror Pond]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7952732#post7952732 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
thats kind of funny, you messed up once, so then you messed up again? No more drilling for you, step away from the tools :lol: kind of like me and spelling.
im kind of suprised it works with the hole in the front. you might try to fill the holes with epoxy or even thickend pvc glue the hole in the front would be my concern.

Just one of those days:rolleye1: Funny thing is, it seems to be operating exactly the same as before the holes. I think that I'll plug them anyway just in case.

[RichConley]

Okay, heres what I'm running now

Venturi:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/71024IMGP0520.JPG

Venturi2:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/71024IMGP0522.JPG

And the big one, removed the whole top part of the front of the pump, replaced it with 1" pipe, attached a union, and epoxied everything in.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/71024IMGP0525.JPG

I seem to be stuck at 22 SCFH though. I think I'm maxed without making some more major changes, but its skimming so well that I dont think it matters.

On an interesting note, I knocked the pump off the body, and running in my sump, it was pulling 33-37 SCFH!!!!!!!!. I want to see if I can pull that by recirc modding that.

[wjhuie]

Mine has the elbow I am thinking of drilling a big hole in the elbow oppsite the opening of the elbow. do you think that will work?

[clkwrk]

So show us a picture of it drawing air and working :D

That like me saying I got my ehiem 1260 on my RPS-3000 and not showing it running ;)

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7958360#post7958360 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clkwrk
So show us a picture of it drawing air and working :D

You people are so damn demanding its ridiculous....


when I get home :-P

[clkwrk]

:D

[scaryperson27]

I wanna see that.

[Avast Marine]

Neck size on the H&S A200-1260 is 4.5"
Neck size on the Deltec AP701 is 3.5"
Neck size on my NW200 is 3.5" is it the same on the RPS3000?
If so then it could probably stay stable with the Ehiem 1260 with the air dialed back just a bit just as Deltec suggest for the AP701.

For those that follow both threads sorry for the DP I ment to put it here.

[scaryperson27]

Is it better to have a larger neck size?

[Covey]

It just has to "match" the amount of air moving thru it. Bigger or smaller doesn't matter.

[clkwrk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7958389#post7958389 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
You people are so damn demanding its ridiculous....


when I get home :-P



Its been a few days . Still would like to see those pics before I sell my unit ;)

[Jim_S]

Me too. I would like to see pics of Rich's whole set up. :)

Jim

[Abengochea]

Just made a gate valve mod on my nw200. Its pretty simple, just use 1 and 1/4 pvc and put a coupling end and the bottom of it. Then just get that rubber sleeve that they carry at home depot with those stainless steel clamps on them and put them over the coupling and the output of the skimmer tube. It should go over them pretty tight. I put some cable ties around the rubber section just to make sure but it works great.

[clkwrk]

Okay I used my rps3000 pump to areate some water change water. With nothing but the venturi attached I get 14scfh which is 1 scfh higher than when its on the skimmer. I tried a ER venturi and got the same reading. What ever the restriction is its in the pump it self .

Rich I would real like to see those pics of it running even if its just the meter next to the skimmer while its runnin gin the sump .

I am figuring all the improvement was from the rounding out of the pumps output. Since I had my output 90 off and it made no real difference.

[Covey]

We need to get Spazz involved on this thread. Modifing and reaming out pump seem to be this bread and butter.

[Roland Jacques]

clkwrk

i test my stock OTP 3000 pump and the stock short venture unatached and got 14 scfh also.

[spazz]

well it sounds to me like they have too small of an output for this pump. I feel most needle wheels have this same problem. these companies are trying to "convert" existing pumps to needle wheels and not taking into consideration the extreme resistance that the output has on the air water mix. its not free flowing enough to let the pumps perform properly. but also you are pushing against the head pressure of the water in the skimmer body. it doesn't matter too much if its a recirc skimmer or the older style of insump skimmers. they all have head pressure.
the Venturi on the OTP pumps is not too bad of a Venturi in its design. but there out put is a disaster. this is where the eheim pumps do so well. there teardrop shaped housing they use on the deltec skimmer helps to flow the air water mix better. even the tiny might im working with has too small of am output. one of these days some one will make a needle wheel pump from the ground up and make the housings the proper way so we don't have to mod them.

as far as the recirc mods go I would remove the pump assembly and install a reinforcement over the part of the body you plan to cut out. then use a dremel tool with a sanding drum on it. go slowly and sand out the hole to fit the new uniseal. by sanding it you have a lot less of a chance of cracking the main tubes. and the reinforcement will make the seal better and stronger to hold up the weight of the pump.
i would make something like this to reinforce the main tubes.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/spazz129/acrylic%20stuff/IMG_6890.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/spazz129/acrylic%20stuff/IMG_6887.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/spazz129/acrylic%20stuff/IMG_6886.jpg

[clkwrk]

What can we do with the pumps to help out .

BTW the threaded piece on the top comes out but with it out the flow comes out like the cut off nozzle maxi jet mod . It shoots to the left or right depending on startup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/pmp-4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/pmp-3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/pmp-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/pmp-1.jpg

[Abengochea]

I was wondering, if the 90 going to the skimmer is so restrictive then why not just use some vinyl tubing or something to go over both the output of the pump and input of the skimmer.

[spazz]

clkwrk thanks for posting those pics. that helps alot. the big problem i see it the output hole is so small. i dont have one of these pumps to work with but i might try to glue a shc 80 1" union onto the ouside of the pump. if the glue holds good and you cant break it off with your hand then i would slowly start to remove as much of the insides as posable. dont make it too thin. but relieve as much as posable and still maintain the seal of the pump. that looks like ABS plastic but with out testing it first you dont want to do a bunch of sanding just to find out you cant get the glue to stick to the outside surface of the pump. does anyone know how many watts this pump is? and what the wattage is when the needle wheel is runing in it? it makes a difference in the pumps ability to pull air. if its only 40 watts then you can expect more than 20 schf of air. but if its 60 watts then it might be able to pull around 25 schf of air. but that also depends on head hight too.

[ChemE]

I got this one. The OTP3000 draws 84 watts as RO ships it. With the venturi blocked off, power consumption goes up to 123 watts. With the venturi bored out so that it accepts 1/4" polyethylene tubing, power consumption goes down to 67 watts.

[Abengochea]

so wouldnt that be the ideal situation?

[ChemE]

Wouldn't what be the ideal situation?

[Abengochea]

I wasnt really thinking about the venturi though. I was mainly thinking of a way to replace that 90 elbow that goes from the pump to the skimmer. Since that elbow restricts the flow by using a small opening, wouldnt it be better to use some tubing that can fit over the output of the pump and attach it over the input of the skimmer. That way there wouldnt be any bottlenecking since the tubing inner diameter would be big enough to fit over these openings

[Abengochea]

I meant wouldnt it being bored out be the ideal situation since it would consume less

[ChemE]

It is certainly better but not ideal. I was shocked at how much electricity the OTP3000 sucks down. I was expecting 65 watts stock, and for it to drop to 50ish with some mods to get more air through it. As it stands, I'm just trying to get back down to the published power rating. The skimmer itself is excellent, it has pulled around 2 cups of espresso out of a 55 with 40 pounds of curing live rock in 3 days including breaking in. I'm just ticked about the power consumption but I'll get it down to a reasonable number.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7987234#post7987234 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Abengochea
I wasnt really thinking about the venturi though. I was mainly thinking of a way to replace that 90 elbow that goes from the pump to the skimmer. Since that elbow restricts the flow by using a small opening, wouldnt it be better to use some tubing that can fit over the output of the pump and attach it over the input of the skimmer. That way there wouldnt be any bottlenecking since the tubing inner diameter would be big enough to fit over these openings

Doing that didnt really net much change. 1-2scfh. The big change was boring out the output of the pump, and replacing it with 1". That was where the jump from 13-15 to 22+ came from.

I'm starting to think that mine needs a more restrictive venturi to pull any more air.

[Covey]

Thanks Spazz.

Rich,
Do you have 1" PVC going all the way into the skimmer or did you just replace the elbow?

Also what the cheapiest place to get a airflow meter?

I think I might start playing with mine.

[spazz]

can some one post a pic of how this pump is attached to the skimmer body? im not sure about this elbow thing you guys are talking about. I have an idea to replace it but I need to see a pic first.

[Roland Jacques]

I need to switch over to the 0-50 scfh flow meter today. I did a stupid impeller mod today. Air is steady at 21scfh now. Up from a steady 18-19. The bubbles may even be a little smaller, not sure, got to let it run for a little more.

My stupid impeller mod is just sandwiched a round piece of gutter guard between the 2 spoke needle wheels. (Their not easy to get off). Ill try to post photos of the wheel.



http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060090.JPG

[Covey]

Duece's pinwheel mod might be a great add on to reaming out the output as Duece got a 30% jump in air pull without moding the out.

Spazz here is the link to the product line.
http://www.aquacave.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=222
I don't have any close up but it looks to be a off the shelf metric elbow.

Also it looks as though clkwrk narrowed it down to the pump body itself from the post above.

[Deuce67]

I will be cleaning out my skimmer this weekend. Ill post some pics of the impellar and my version of my venturi mod.

[Roland Jacques]

spazz

i belive this OTP3000 is the same housing as the OR3500 if that helps.

i clean up the hosuing transistion areaas much as i could even went thru . got the flow up to 18-19 scfh with a little venture work.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060082.JPG
heres the elbow mod. i also went in their from both sides and opened it up the shape 90 with a round rotary file. the pump pulls the same mounted to the skimmer or unattached at 21 scfh.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050879.JPG

[spazz]

wow that plumbing is small. they could do alot more withthat pump if the plumbing was 1" diam. the mod that Roland Jacques did make alot of sence. but its not easyto do either. if you mess it up then your looking at a new pump. but if you do try it just take your time and go slow.
Roland Jacques thats an awesome mod you did and i think you will just keep improving that mod to the point you get 25 schf out of that bad boy. the only restriction you will have is the head hight. other wise i could see that pump ptting out 30 schf of air. and the more you mod the impellor with the mesh the better it will work.

[Roland Jacques]

i did go thur and used a little fast weld epoxy to cover it. Is thier any epoxy better than other for this type of plastic?

Deuce67
looking foward to seeing it.

[wjhuie]

I think he has 1" all the way to the skimmer body but not into the body.Im pretty sure that the union on the side of the skimmer has be replaced with a 1" union.

[spazz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7989706#post7989706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
Is thier any epoxy better than other for this type of plastic?

if this is the same type of plastic that ocean runner uses, then it will be hard to find a glue to stick to it. its some weard type of plastic.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7989706#post7989706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
i belive this OTP3000 is the same housing as the OR3500 if that helps.
i dont think its the exact same as the ocean runner 3700's the cases are a little different. it may have been made by the same company though.

[BLockamon]

I think the stock OR3700 comes with a larger output glued to the pump. If you can't/don't want to do a pump casing mod, you might consider the OR3700. You would still have to pumb it to the skimmer though.

I'm trying to decide what I can do with the elbow on my RPS-3000 (Recirc. 200). I can only ream it out from one side, since the other has a long (3-4") pipe attached.

[Robert Patterso]

Ok, i just got my Oct. nw200 today. Other than beveling the output of the case in the pump housing and boring or grinding the 90 out to 5/8 or 11/16 on the small end is there anything else worth while doing to the skimmer? I also have the 90 in the skimmer chamber. From what I've read you guys don't like the 90. is this the older model. I bought it from marine solutions. Without trying to take out the 90 and possibly opening up a can of worms is there a way of improving the function of the 90? Does it creat to much back pressure? If so why not drill a hole straight thru the elbow of the 90? Just asking, not a skimmer buff like you guys seem to be. I'm not installing it till next week and its going to be in pretty tight quarters so would like to make improvements befor installation. I'm putting it on a 70g reef.

Thanks for any help,

Robert

[spazz]

is there some where you can buy these needle wheel impellors? i would loke to try one in an ocean runner to see how it works and if it fits right.

[ChemE]

I just emailed Rob at Marine Solutions. So far, he's been an extremely nice and helpful guy. We'll see if he can sell us the impellers and if so for what price. I'll post his response as soon as I get it.

[ChemE]

So I've been watching the bubbles swirl around in my 200 for a few days now and cant help but notice that the bottom 2"-3" are pretty much wasted. The microbubbles don't seem to get down that low. I'm wondering if those of you who have done the recirc mod have taken back those bottom few inches. Any comments?

[tm613]

more bubbles at the bottom=more bubbles out of the skimmer into the sump....i have noticled that many recircs have even more empty space at the bottom...check out an H&S recirc almost 5 inches of empty space

[spazz]

i agree that you need a seperation area that is about 2-3 in from the bottom of the skimmer. thats not bad in my opinion. i have see alot worse. euro reef skimmers have 4-6 in in the bottom of there skimmers. that is stock though. no mods.

[wjhuie]

Has anyone done the elbow mod of the nw 150. I just did and I have noticed a big difference. I am planing on working on the volute this afternoon.

[danskim]

Roland, do you think it's worth it to bore out the pipe like you did?
Or was the benefit not worth the trouble?
Did you use a dremel or dremel type tool?

[Roland Jacques]

Spazz,
I got 2 questions for you and anybody else.
I’ve been battling wet skimmate. While I prefer my skimmate wet I would like to no why it does not get dry. I thought it was residual oils (im still not convinced its not). So I threw 1 poly filter in. the foam was able to be very dry for 5 days. Now it back the same type of wet foam, it probably splatters as much waste over the top than pushing foam over (at least 50/50). I don’t think it is neck turbulence, my water level is below the neck since the last mod, bubbles barly move in the lowest sections of the neck. Any thoughts?

2. As I continue to try to improve my air flow I notice that the water / air ratio stays about the same (in-sump model). I’m thinking that while my air has gone up over 100 %, the actual benefit is a little minimal (without the recirc mod). i second thought, i'm prossesing twice as much water as before, so theirs the benift :rolleyes:. It almost directly pulls in just as much water/air ratio. At 8-9 scfh it moved 250 GPH. At 18 SCFH it moved 500 gph. I need to check it now, I suspect it is around 600 gph after the impeller mod. Is that just the nature of the beast? I’m thinking that at this point I should try a more water restrictive venture as I play with the impeller. I want to maximize the pumps air/water ratio before I do the recirc mod. Any tips in this area & what do you think?

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7995789#post7995789 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by danskim
Roland, do you think it's worth it to bore out the pipe like you did?
Or was the benefit not worth the trouble?
Did you use a dremel or dremel type tool?

yeah, it the easiest thing to do. on my NW200 nothing eles would make that much differance if i did not do that first. i dont no if all models were as small ID as mine were. my air went from 8-9 to 12 SCFH. i used a drill and a 11/16" sand stone or a rotory file in reverse (page 1 or 2)
the bigest differance things that i noticed
1. the pump work
2. the elbow work
3 or 4. the clear tube, tappering the edges in the union
4. or 3. the venture, tappering edge up to the air hole
#? impeller? (still playing with this)

[Avast Marine]

"I should try a more water restrictive venture as I play with the impeller"

or you could wait til you recirc it and leave room for a gate valve on the input.

[Roland Jacques]

this is what my foam looks like at 20 scfh nw-200. light Bioload 7 fish only 60 lbs base rock, 150 gallons hospital/isolation system. what do you think?
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060118.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060126.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060125.JPG

[Ereefic]

Is that with or without polyfilter? How long has the skimmer been on to get that foam?

[Roland Jacques]

Poly filter is still in the sump but I pretty sure it is s exhausted by now. 7 days. That about 10-20 minutes after adjusting the height.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7989753#post7989753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
I think he has 1" all the way to the skimmer body but not into the body.Im pretty sure that the union on the side of the skimmer has be replaced with a 1" union.


I replaced the part of the pump that the plumbing screws into with 1" PVC. I put a 1" union on that. Off of the 1" union is a 1" elbow, with a 1" to 3/4" bushing attached. The bushing is pretty much the same size as the flange part of the union that attaches to the body. I bored out the bushing too. I can't go any bigger on the plumbing without drilling out the union attached tot he body.

At this point, the air draw is plenty high (anywhere from 18-22 scfh on the body), but I need to get the air/water ratio up, as like Roland, I think I'm moving 500+ gph now. I think a more restrictive venturi may help on that, or, just recircing the thing. I'm hesitant to recirc it right now, because if I do,theres a certain way I want to do it, and that involves ordering some 1" NPT taps, etc, and I really dont feel like doing that right now.



Roland, I'm also having some trouble getting dry skimmate. Adjusting the skimmer up seems to just increase quantity though, without any decrease in quality. IE its still green tea, but I can get half the collection cup each day. Part of me thinks its related to the fact that I have 7 fish, and am running a skimmer designed for 200+ gallons on a 58, and part of me thinks its related to the fact that I basically used a full stick of epoxy on the pump, and I'm still seeing crazy-epoxy-skimmer syndrome.

[RichConley]

Spazz, this is more your area of expertise, but lightening up the wheel woudl decrease wattage draw, correct?

What I've been thinking about is the ATI bubble master type wheel, IE the brillo pad looking thing. Now, you've been using sheet PVC (or acrylic I think) for making your needlewheels for the sequence/tiny might, and I understand that, the rigidity is needed for mounting pins, etc. What i've been thinking about is those really thin plastic food storage containers (the black take-out ones, with the clear lids) They have a really thin, flimsy plastic. I think we could use some of this stuff for just a flat disk, adn mount mesh on it, and be fine. I think the mesh itself would make the disk rigid enough to work, and from what i've heard, its almost impossible to cavitate one of these thread-wheel type skimmers. I think we could get the wattage draw WAY down, and get more air (because we could use much more restrictive venturis without worrying about cavitation)

Any ideas?

[Roland Jacques]

Had to step up not only the flow meter, but the air hose and fittings, the venture will also have to be worked on also to allow more air. The pump attached to the skimmer 21-22 was the max like what rich has found out. As long as the as the water/bubble has to go thru the clear tube... that skimmer is not getting anymore air in that body.

The pump today got 28 SCFH, and with venture work im expecting low 30s. With some housing work like Rich did, "well forget about it." rich I bet the brillo stuff will get the same results, but I think guttergaurd will not require monthly cleaning. We will see.

[Roland Jacques]

Got 30 schf when I enlarged the clear rigid air tube on the stock venture. The coolest thing is no cavitations. If I restrict the water in line the air flow just goes down. And not as much as you might think. Man this is sweet. The other thought I had is you could also super charge this easier. If you super change it ill bet your wattage will go way down. :D

[DeLiBoY]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7994980#post7994980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
I just emailed Rob at Marine Solutions. So far, he's been an extremely nice and helpful guy. We'll see if he can sell us the impellers and if so for what price. I'll post his response as soon as I get it.

I am starting to get very unhappy with them. I first spoke with them over 3 weeks ago about a broken part on my skimmer and they told me it was being shipped the next day. Here we are and numerous emails later I still do not have the part. Now I am getting no response from them.

[RichConley]

Roland, pics of the wheel please. Still not sure what you're doing.

[Roland Jacques]

Rich the funny thing is it does not start up with the double threaded nipple out of the body. Why???? So this version probably won’t work in your pump. You will probably have to alter the pattern a little. Lots of room for custom tailoring.

Stupid Modded Impeller. I separated the 2 paddle/spoke wheels. (Be careful doing this I used an exactor knife to break away all the super glue/weld-on and separate the paddle/spoke wheels) remove 1 of the wheels. The remaining one still on the magnet. Then I cut out 4 circles of plastic gutter guard same dia as spoke wheel and zip tied them to the single spoke wheel. Presto. We might find that 2 work better than 4 or alternate sizes. 1 full size disk and 1 half size to give some space in between them. I think that might work better with your bigger outlet.

The hard start with the bigger outlet very interesting. If I put my thumb over the outlet it started but did not pull as much air like 18-24 scfh and erratic go figure.

[ChemE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7999569#post7999569 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DeLiBoY
I am starting to get very unhappy with them. I first spoke with them over 3 weeks ago about a broken part on my skimmer and they told me it was being shipped the next day. Here we are and numerous emails later I still do not have the part. Now I am getting no response from them.

That's weird. I got 3 responses from Rob today. He says that he will be getting replacement impellers and pumps on his next order and that they were surprisingly inexpensive. He also assured me that he would pass the cheap prices on to us; so let's hope he is true to his word. He also told me that he is looking into getting replacement collection cups and lids.

[DeLiBoY]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8001090#post8001090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
That's weird. I got 3 responses from Rob today. He says that he will be getting replacement impellers and pumps on his next order and that they were surprisingly inexpensive. He also assured me that he would pass the cheap prices on to us; so let's hope he is true to his word. He also told me that he is looking into getting replacement collection cups and lids.

What you said is kinda funny also...when I did get ahold of them they told me they had tons of the pumps laying around, now they are telling you that they are on order. Something is fishy with them. I am getting really unhappy.

[clkwrk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7989657#post7989657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
spazz

i belive this OTP3000 is the same housing as the OR3500 if that helps.

i clean up the hosuing transistion areaas much as i could even went thru . got the flow up to 18-19 scfh with a little venture work.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060082.JPG
heres the elbow mod. i also went in their from both sides and opened it up the shape 90 with a round rotary file. the pump pulls the same mounted to the skimmer or unattached at 21 scfh.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1050879.JPG

You can bore that more Those threads can be sanded gone . That piece comes out of the pump as seen in my pics a page back or so . I am sure that will help more since you only need the outside threads.

[Robert Patterso]

What tool did you use to open the hole up in the elbow. I used the same stone as Roland did on first page of this thrd. I didn't notice any heat while grinding and yes I went slowly and checked for heat and just when I was almost through the black insert melted completely in too. Luckily I'm a machinist and had some solid pvc stock in the shop, so was able to machine a new piece. I bored it to .660 and was able to adjust the hieght of tube. I when I connect my pump to skimmer body it caused it to tilt because pump set up of the floor to much. My skimmer has the elbow in so I drilled it in four places to relieve some back pressure. Also chamfered acrylic tue going into skimmer body hopefully for better transition, also ground venture area in pump.

[Roland Jacques]

clkwrk
your talking about th upper photo? if so those are the threads for the double ended male nipple. so i cant sand those out with out trying to epoxy something (a union) to the outside of the pump.
The other thing is that my new impeller wont run right without the double ended nipple in place go figure that one.

Buy the way. The new impeller on my NW-200 skimmer is pulling 24-25 SCFH now. and the coolest thing is my water flow is is way down, under 400 gph.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8008799#post8008799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
What tool did you use to open the hole up in the elbow. I used the same stone as Roland did on first page of this thrd. I didn't notice any heat while grinding and yes I went slowly and checked for heat and just when I was almost through the black insert melted completely in too. Luckily I'm a machinist and had some solid pvc stock in the shop, so was able to machine a new piece. I bored it to .660 and was able to adjust the hieght of tube. I when I connect my pump to skimmer body it caused it to tilt because pump set up of the floor to much. My skimmer has the elbow in so I drilled it in four places to relieve some back pressure. Also chamfered acrylic tue going into skimmer body hopefully for better transition, also ground venture area in pump.

I was afraid that might happen. When I reamed mine I did 1/8" at a time 1/8" pulled it out 4 seconds or so then repeated. That’s why I said 5/8" dia. would be safer. Im glad you’re a machinist.

Any way you sounds like you’ve done some good work on it. How much air do you want it to flow? My Impeller mod is working AWESOME!!! But you will have to lower your output tube a little.

[clkwrk]

Sorry I mean this inner ring which you can feel a ridge in this piece.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/rps-a.jpg

[Roland Jacques]

clkwrk yeah i smothed out a few spots like that.

[Roland Jacques]

Some more detail on my impeller mod. and a link to the DIY thread cause this could work on many pumps.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=8008968#post8008968

I cut the gutter guard into 4 circles about the same size as the paddle wheel that it came with. I removed one of the 2 paddle wheels. I stacked all 4 and attached the 4 gutter guard wheels with 3 small zip-ties to the 1 remaining paddle wheels. Then I tested into good I need to up grade a few things. After I change the flow-meters fittings, hose, venture... to all bigger sizes I tested it again. WOW 30 scfh. I think it was still limited by the venture i.e.; I think it can pull even more, maybe allot more.

I don't think I have come close to finding it limits yet. It is simply plastic gutter guard it can be cut with scissors in a bunch of different shapes, and stacked in a bunch of different configurations, i.e., small one, big one...... or smaller diameter verse larger diameter....

I put this pump on the skimmer and tested it again. Even with the small id plumbing (5/8" in spots te clear tube in the body) it was pulling 24-25 SCFH. To put icing on the cake the water movement was over 30% less than before. MORE AIR, LESS WATER, HORAY BUBBLES! The water flow is under 400 gph.

If I restrict the water intake the air flow goes down, but it does not go down at the same ratio with the water. I don’t no the numbers yet but they seem very good. i.e.; if restrict the water uptake to say 200 gph it still pulls 20scfh I (I have not test this but it just seems that way.). That part just to points out the venture can use some tailoring. If I just play with the venture I could get it up to 40 (maybe) and we can still play with the gutter guard also.

removed 1 of the two paddle wheels (not an easy job)
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060151.JPG
not the same pump better pump for the photo OTP2000
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060150.JPG
I stacked all 4 and attached the 4 gutter guard wheels with 3 small zip-ties to the 1 remaining paddle wheels.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060131.JPG [/B][/QUOTE]

[daytonreefRob]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8008202#post8008202 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DeLiBoY
What you said is kinda funny also...when I did get ahold of them they told me they had tons of the pumps laying around, now they are telling you that they are on order. Something is fishy with them. I am getting really unhappy.

Back the truck up here! We do have a lot of pumps, these pumps are slated for a skimmer. It is hard to sell a skimmer with out a pump to go with it. When we placed our first couple of orders, we had a 1:1 relationship of skimmers and pumps. I had told him we were ordering extra pumps so that we could offer them.

[spazz]

the question i have is.... has anyone checked the wattage draw of the gutter guard wheels? you have to be careful you done exceded there posed wattage draw for that pump or you will burn it up or add excessive heat to your tank. anyone got a
kill-a-watt meter to test these.

[Roland Jacques]

yeah Spazz, i have lots of questions myself. i did not even think about burning up the motor. i believe the wattage has to be less than before but with no watt/ampmeter, im not sure. ( wait i do have a old craftsman analog amp meter i probably have not used it in 20 years. Humm).

My other questions is diamter, is smaller better? is some space in between each layer better? is a star patarn better? is less layers better? And then theirs the Venture ... I almost cant sleep. Almost

Thats why i start another thread in the DIY section just for this -"i dont no what to call it wheel"- and these kinds of questions. i figure the more people playing with this will help answer this questions faster.

What i do no it make this $200 skimmer Rocks.
(actualy with all my time in this thing it probably a $2000 skimmer by now :lol: )

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8008850#post8008850 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
I was afraid that might happen. When I reamed mine I did 1/8" at a time 1/8" pulled it out 4 seconds or so then repeated. That’s why I said 5/8" dia. would be safer. Im glad you’re a machinist.

Any way you sounds like you’ve done some good work on it. How much air do you want it to flow? My Impeller mod is working AWESOME!!! But you will have to lower your output tube a little.

Roland, You know I'm not sure how much air I want. I'm not real knowledgeable on skimmers. I do know I want it to be as efficient as possible. I don't have a scf guage (or what ever you call it?) I have it in a vinegar bath right now and I'm thinking I may have drilled 1 to many holes in the 90 in reaction chamber. It appears to be pushing air clear to the bottom of chamber. Which is making out of the output and into the main body of water in rubbermaid tub. I'm thinking I might have to plug one hole. When I drilled the 90 I went thru the top and bottom of 90 with a 12" 5/16 drill bit. I also drilled 2 1/4" holes perpindicular to 90 at slightly diff. angles. I does appear to be producing a tremendous amount of air as the chamber is pure white with very tiny bubbles. The water is fresh though not salt, different density so will see. I would apperciate any input you might have.

Where can I get an air meter?

Thanks, Robert

[RichConley]

Robert, initially the issue was that the pump could not move enough water to suck in very much air. What the boring out of the elbow,porting the pump, did was to allow the pump to move more water. It now has no problems moving water out of the housing.

Now you want to work on the ration of air to water. You can do this by making the venturi more restrictive, etc. (IE, you dont have too much air right now, you've got too much water, which is why the air is being swept down to the outlet)

[danskim]

Did you guys also exchange out the air intake tubing with something with a bigger inner diameter?

[Fliger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7970995#post7970995 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimdogg187
Me too. I would like to see pics of Rich's whole set up. :)

Jim

I'd love to see pix also. He gives a lot of opinions around RC and seems to be very good at ignoring posts that are inconvenient for him.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8010795#post8010795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fliger
I'd love to see pix also. He gives a lot of opinions around RC and seems to be very good at ignoring posts that are inconvenient for him.

Fliger, what the heck does this post have to do with Reef Octopus mods?

I've said repeatedly, and multiple threads, I moved in early July, and lost most of my stock due to some heat issues in the new apartment. I've told you that 5 or 6 times now. Hows that for ignoring posts?

Now, if you dont have any comments THAT ARE ON TOPIC, stay the hell out of this thread.

[Fliger]

Actually Rich it is on-topic. I'd like to see pictures of your mods, the ones that have been requested of you a few times on the last couple pages.

(since i might buy the unit clkwrk might sell)

[RichConley]

pictures of the mod are on topic, and I have already posted them, if you'd look back in the thread.

pictures of my tank (which looks awful) are not.

[Fliger]

Just for the record I am referring to this

You people are so damn demanding its ridiculous....
when I get home :-P

Its been a few days . Still would like to see those pics before I sell my unit

Me too. I would like to see pics of Rich's whole set up.

Rich I would real like to see those pics of it running even if its just the meter next to the skimmer while its runnin gin the sump .

I'd like to see the pictures before I make a decision on Chris' skimmer. Obviously you are not obligated to do so, but you said you would and I'm just wondering if you will. Sorry if you think that is OT. And sorry about your livestock.

[steve the plumb]

Rich even if your tank looks like crap what differance does it make.Your skimmer still skims

[RichConley]

Honestly fliger, the whole "take pictures of the meter" thing is ridiculous. Its a shot at my credibility, and I dont like that. I've got no vested interest in fleecing you here.

I've posted multiple pictures of my modifications. So has roland. We've given SCFH numbers. If you dont believe us, fine, but between working 60+ hours a week, 10 hours a week of commute, playing in charity softball tournaments, cleaning out my second apartment, etc, I just dont have time to pull the skimmer out from under the tank, set it up in a rubbermaid, and take pictures of a flow meter JUST to prove things to you. My sump is too crowded, and has no lighting, and I just can not get the damn camera to focus on the meter inside the stand.


And even if I do find the time, I'm not going to waste it doing that, I'm going to put a threadwheel on the pump, and see if I can get it to draw 30+ SCFH on the skimmer, and not just in a tub.

[danskim]

Whoa let's all calm down. Fliger, I'm gonna do that cool IceCap 660 mod to my Tek light soon.
Also... what ID vinyl tubing did you replace the stock one with, Rich?
The next size up I could find at HD was 1/4", but it looks pretty huge.

[Fliger]

Dude, take the meds. I was just asking for a picture that you said you would post. I think you might be a little paranoid with that "shot at my credibility" comment. Yowza

Apologies for all on the thread that it took this turn - I was just looking for a pic since clkwrk and I are in the middle of a skimmer swap (he's a neighbor)

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011050#post8011050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by danskim
Whoa let's all calm down. Fliger, I'm gonna do that cool IceCap 660 mod to my Tek light soon.
Also... what ID vinyl tubing did you replace the stock one with, Rich?
The next size up I could find at HD was 1/4", but it looks pretty huge.

I THINK mine is 1/4". It is pretty huge, although I'm not sure how much difference it really makes. The output of the pump is the biggest issue, and any flashing issues in the venturi

[Jim_S]

Yes Rich, from me, this is a shot at your credibility.

I don't believe the things you say are true. I WANT TO SEE. Sorry if it bugs you, maybe you shouldn't be so opionated if you don't want to back up the things you say.

This is very on topic. Many of us are considering demoing an RO, and you being the main person who screams for recognition for this product, should provide evidence to back it up. I WANT TO SEE RESULTS!!!! And if you're not gonna show them, your credibility is shot.....

And as far as working goes, you're not the only one who puts in 60+ a week. Try selling advertiseing..... I eat, sleep and breath my job. Its a 24 hour a day commitment if I wanna get paid....

Jim

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8010525#post8010525 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Robert, initially the issue was that the pump could not move enough water to suck in very much air. What the boring out of the elbow,porting the pump, did was to allow the pump to move more water. It now has no problems moving water out of the housing.

Now you want to work on the ration of air to water. You can do this by making the venturi more restrictive, etc. (IE, you dont have too much air right now, you've got too much water, which is why the air is being swept down to the outlet)

Damn, Everbody take a chill pill, drink a beer, take a nap, whatever. I've done everthing that's been posted on this thread so far for my nw200 and so far it's obvious to me that it works. So I don't need pictures, and I don't have a camera so I won't be posting any pictures.

Rich or Rowland, How or what are you doing to restrict the venture to get more air the skimmer. It's pretty obvious it's producing plenty of gph now. because with gate valve wide open it still overflows. So I guess now I need to get more air to it to slow down the gph. Wants I know how to do this there's no doubt this thing will kick some serious ***!!! Pretty danm good for a $200 skimmer. I'm very impressed!!! Thanks for all info on this thread.

Sorry about above but come on, give it a break!!

Thanks, Robert

[RichConley]

If you want to see, look at Roland's. He has posted pictures of his meter. I dont have time right now, and I'm at work, so I cant right now.

If you NEED to see mine, you're going to have to wait until I have the time (and inclination) to basically disasemble my entire sump to get this thing out. Most of the equipment needs to come out before I can do anything. I can tell you, thats not going to happen any time before september.


"This is very on topic. Many of us are considering demoing an RO, and you being the main person who screams for recognition for this product, should provide evidence to back it up. I WANT TO SEE RESULTS!!!! And if you're not gonna show them, your credibility is shot....."

Frankly, I dont care. We're talking about modifications here that improve the RO skimmers. I'm not trying to sell you one. I dont give a damn if you buy one.

I'm a selfish bastard. I'm going to spend what time I have making my tank (and skimmer) better. Not having a ****ing match with you. I'm done here.

[RichConley]

Robert, all I've done is (originally) port out the piece of rigid airline tubing, and replaced the airline tubing with a different piece (the piece that comes with it appears to be a metric size slightly smaller than standard airline tubing. At some point after that, I broke the piece of rigid tubing off by mistake, so I just drilled through and ran airline tubing the whole path of the airway. I saw some small difference here.

Later I went to the 1/4" ID tubing, and I dont think that made any difference.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011308#post8011308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Robert, all I've done is (originally) port out the piece of rigid airline tubing, and replaced the airline tubing with a different piece (the piece that comes with it appears to be a metric size slightly smaller than standard airline tubing. At some point after that, I broke the piece of rigid tubing off by mistake, so I just drilled through and ran airline tubing the whole path of the airway. I saw some small difference here.

Later I went to the 1/4" ID tubing, and I dont think that made any difference.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011308#post8011308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Robert, all I've done is (originally) port out the piece of rigid airline tubing, and replaced the airline tubing with a different piece (the piece that comes with it appears to be a metric size slightly smaller than standard airline tubing. At some point after that, I broke the piece of rigid tubing off by mistake, so I just drilled through and ran airline tubing the whole path of the airway. I saw some small difference here.

Later I went to the 1/4" ID tubing, and I dont think that made any difference.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011363#post8011363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso


So basically just open air port at intake of pump so it can pull air into it, correct? When you say you run the whole length of airway, meaning what?:confused: sorry don't mean to ask dumb questions here but but this is my first attempt at a mod. on a skimmer. Have always just run right out of box.

Thanks again, Robert

[RichConley]

Basically, while I was modding the pump, I stepped on the venturi, and broke off the airline. OOPS.

When you pull out the piece of rigid airline, see the path the air takes? It goes in like a 1/4", then has to take a 90' turn, and travels another half inch. Basically I bored out that whole part enough to slide regular airline down that. Theres barely enough plastic, and I had to patch a bunch of places where I put holes in the venturi.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011562#post8011562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Basically, while I was modding the pump, I stepped on the venturi, and broke off the airline. OOPS.

When you pull out the piece of rigid airline, see the path the air takes? It goes in like a 1/4", then has to take a 90' turn, and travels another half inch. Basically I bored out that whole part enough to slide regular airline down that. Theres barely enough plastic, and I had to patch a bunch of places where I put holes in the venturi.

Hey Rich, I think we may talking about two different venture's. Mine is off of a nw200 and it is one whole molded pc. The air intake is molded onto the water intake and just goes straight thru. There is no 90, just straight. So that being said do think I can drill a bigger hole thru or cut off and insert a piece of airline, rigid or flex. I have an extra one to experiment with.

Thanks, Robert

[RichConley]

Mine is a NW200. The one I'm talking about is the small grey one.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011924#post8011924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Mine is a NW200. The one I'm talking about is the small grey one.

Rich, Both of mine are black, I got 2 of the same type. I think I received the older model, which I think is a bunch of crap if that is the case!! My skimmer body has the 90 instead of the T inside of body. Do you know if I can get the gray venture? So far I have drilled the air inlet over size about 3/64 or about .045 of an inch. The only other thing I know to do is warm up the end of the nozzle on intake to restrict the incoming flow of the pump. Which I'm assuming would toss out all the other mods. There was some improvement but still have to run gate valve wide open. One other thing, if I run the cover on the skimmate cup it will start to overflow. Does that make any sence to you. It takes about 3-5 min. before it starts to overflow.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8012101#post8012101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
Rich, Both of mine are black, I got 2 of the same type. I think I received the older model, which I think is a bunch of crap if that is the case!! My skimmer body has the 90 instead of the T inside of body. Do you know if I can get the gray venture? So far I have drilled the air inlet over size about 3/64 or about .045 of an inch. The only other thing I know to do is warm up the end of the nozzle on intake to restrict the incoming flow of the pump. Which I'm assuming would toss out all the other mods. There was some improvement but still have to run gate valve wide open. One other thing, if I run the cover on the skimmate cup it will start to overflow. Does that make any sence to you. It takes about 3-5 min. before it starts to overflow.

Hey Rich, I think I fingered it out. I lowered the gate valve 2" closer to water and put a piece of pvc pipe on the 90 after the gate valve so it's approx. 1" under the surface of water. I can adjust it any way I want and seems to be working great!! I don't know how much air I'm pulling but it seems to be sucking like mad. I don't have a schf gauge but I would be curious to see just how much. Do know where I can get one?

[koga57]

NW 110 and other Octopus pump problems solved.

On my NW110; I purchased the Gen X 1500 needlewheel pump and went to Home Depot for a 65 cent threaded elbow. This pump is ssssooooo much better than the Octupus pump it isn't even funny.

I realize you shouldn't have to buy an additional pump, but hey, better than buying a new skimmer.

I strongly recommend the Gen X needlewheel pump.

david

[wjhuie]

I am so happy with my nw 200 and nw 150 I am getting 2/3 of the cup filled everyday and im not talking about green tea looking crap but the stank stuff that make your wife yell at you for dumping it in the toilet and stinking up the house. I have done the elbow mod on both of them. I drilled out the venturi a little on the nw 200 but not on the 150. Man what a deal the skimmers are!

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8012895#post8012895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
I am so happy with my nw 200 and nw 150 I am getting 2/3 of the cup filled everyday and im not talking about green tea looking crap but the stank stuff that make your wife yell at you for dumping it in the toilet and stinking up the house. I have done the elbow mod on both of them. I drilled out the venturi a little on the nw 200 but not on the 150. Man what a deal the skimmers are!

Where is your water level at on the NW-200?

[Robert Patterso]

Hey Roland, Your needle wheel mod., is it to break up the air more or more gph? I'm thinking I have more gph than I need. After all the mods I had to lower the gate valve 2" to keep it from overflowing, that's with it wide open. Now I have full control. That's if there is such a thing.:D What I'm trying to do is get more air to it now. I don't have the grey venture, they sent me 2 of the black ones. I added another air inlet to one of them to see if I can get more. Not sure if it will just split the difference or what. Emailed marine solutions to see if I can get the grey style. We shall see. Any suggestions?

Robert

[Robert Patterso]

Ok I think I'm done with my mods. Although I'm doing this by brail, I do believe the second air inlet made a difference. I drilled a second hole right next to the original about a 5 deg angle, glued a piece of ridgid airline tubing to it and tried it. If I plug one of the lines the water level rises probly an 1" to 11/2" or lowers when released. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that tells me I'm getting more air. Again no air gauge. If anybody has any thoughts I'm open to suggestions. Sorry I have no camera, so no pics.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011083#post8011083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimdogg187
Yes Rich, from me, this is a shot at your credibility.

I don't believe the things you say are true. I WANT TO SEE. Sorry if it bugs you, maybe you shouldn't be so opionated if you don't want to back up the things you say.

This is very on topic. Many of us are considering demoing an RO, and you being the main person who screams for recognition for this product, should provide evidence to back it up. I WANT TO SEE RESULTS!!!! And if you're not gonna show them, your credibility is shot.....

And as far as working goes, you're not the only one who puts in 60+ a week. Try selling advertiseing..... I eat, sleep and breath my job. Its a 24 hour a day commitment if I wanna get paid....

Jim
Man Jim, this is bad.

1. What do you expect to see that has not been shown already? If you think Rich is lying, then PM him or start another thread or challenge him on the Octopus thread if you have to. Please don’t attack people here.

2. Let’s stay on topic. I made this thread so that people could "easily" find the info they need if they want to improve their skimmer. Mainly for people like myself who can’t afford H&S skimmers... and people who are more DIYers with limited skills and tools. And those with other reasons.

This thread is for us to collaborate together and share ideas, what we are doing to help each other reach a common goal. Their no room for creditability checking here. If you want to chalange a procedure or results, or method of testing fine do that. I encourage that I’ve found that I posted results when I had water in my flow meter so my reading was bogus. Rich and others have helped me allot. I have achieved goals beyond what I expected. The things I don’t no would fill libraries. Rich, Spazz, Chem E, ericreef... are teaching me some of these things. So don't discourage anybody from sharing here. Challenge our results or what ever, but don’t challenge integrity here please.

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8013519#post8013519 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
Ok I think I'm done with my mods. Although I'm doing this by brail, I do believe the second air inlet made a difference. I drilled a second hole right next to the original about a 5 deg angle, glued a piece of ridgid airline tubing to it and tried it. If I plug one of the lines the water level rises probly an 1" to 11/2" or lowers when released. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that tells me I'm getting more air. Again no air gauge. If anybody has any thoughts I'm open to suggestions. Sorry I have no camera, so no pics.

I just did something similar to this with my gray venturi. I put another hole so there were 2 - 1/4" RO tubing sucking air, not just 1.

It really didn't seem to make too much of a noticable difference. If I took one of those lines out, the other one got extremely noisy sucking air, but that is only if the line was flush with the inside of the venturi. If I pushed that line into the path of incoming water, it got really quiet. The flow meter was also bouncing around alot and you could here it in the pump too. Water level would fluctuate up and down about an inch every 10 sec. or so.

If I took my finger and covered the second hole I drilled, it quieted down a little big, but the air was still bouncing around.

Can anyone tell me what any of this means?

[Robert Patterso]

The only thing I would say is your pump is cavitating. Maybe to much air? I used standard rigid tube and air line. I marked my skimmer housing with a marker, it's been running for about an hour in 10" of water in a rubbermaid, no changes in water level as of yet. When I get my sump done that is the water level that it will be. I'm really just guessing here with your problem though, so someone else might want to chime in here. I used to race jet boats (small time) and if you were moving a little to slow and stood on it that's what would happen. It would suck in air and cavitate, bad thing.

[Robert Patterso]

This is probly going to sound like a real dumb question. I've been running 200nw in vinager while I was doing my mod. testing. Well I took out of sump to dump out the vinager water and run it in fresh h20. Turned it on and it only makes big bubbles, no little ones at all. Since I have never run a skimmer in fresh water I'm not sure this if this is the cause. The fresh water I mean. Somebody tell me that is the reason. It's still pumping water and air like mad but no small skim bubbles. Hopefully I already answered my own question. Need to hear from somebody else. Call me a big dumby, that's fine.

[theduckster]

Yep put in in salt water and it should be fine
fresh water dosent skim well

[ChemE]

Ok, I don't mean to come across as a jerk but this has been making me crazy both in this thread and the main octopus thread...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/cdl1051/venture.png

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/cdl1051/venturi.png

[ChemE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8014499#post8014499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
This is probly going to sound like a real dumb question...

Well I took out of sump to dump out the vinegar water and run it in fresh h20. Turned it on and it only makes big bubbles, no little ones at all. Since I have never run a skimmer in fresh water I'm not sure this if this is the cause. The fresh water I mean. Somebody tell me that is the reason. It's still pumping water and air like mad but no small skim bubbles.

Not a dumb question, a super common one I've seen on dozens of threads here. Fresh water has a much much higher surface tension so it won't support small bubbles as readily as salt water will. The result of which is in fresh water bubbles rapidly combine and form large bubbles. This is why a skimmer being testing on fresh water looks like its broken; it just puts a bunch of marble sized bubbles into the water.

In salt water that things will crack open a can of...

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8014926#post8014926 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by theduckster
Yep put in in salt water and it should be fine
fresh water dosent skim well

Thanks theduckster, I feel alot better, I had a feeling. Worked to many hours on it.

Robert

[Mirror Pond]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8015055#post8015055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
Ok, I don't mean to come across as a jerk but this has been making me crazy both in this thread and the main octopus thread...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/cdl1051/venture.png

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/cdl1051/venturi.png

Perfect! Thank you. :)

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8015229#post8015229 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mirror Pond
Perfect! Thank you. :)

Hay Mirorr Ponde, Thunk ya fer da spellen leson.

Just kiddin, I just got a little smarter today!

[Robert Patterso]

I would like to thank everbody for all the info. on this thread. Everthing has worked perfectly on my 200nw. My tank thanks you too. For a $189. dollars and a couple hours worth the work this thing kicks some serious a&&. I love it. Plus it is my first skimmer mod. and I am a little smarter. Just a little mind you:D. And thanks for all the replies and help. Maybe I'll buy a camera and post some pics:beer:

Thanks again,
Robert

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8009000#post8009000 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
Some more detail on my impeller mod. and a link to the DIY thread cause this could work on many pumps.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=8008968#post8008968

I cut the gutter guard into 4 circles about the same size as the paddle wheel that it came with. I removed one of the 2 paddle wheels. I stacked all 4 and attached the 4 gutter guard wheels with 3 small zip-ties to the 1 remaining paddle wheels. Then I tested into good I need to up grade a few things. After I change the flow-meters fittings, hose, venture... to all bigger sizes I tested it again. WOW 30 scfh. I think it was still limited by the venture i.e.; I think it can pull even more, maybe allot more.

I don't think I have come close to finding it limits yet. It is simply plastic gutter guard it can be cut with scissors in a bunch of different shapes, and stacked in a bunch of different configurations, i.e., small one, big one...... or smaller diameter verse larger diameter....

I put this pump on the skimmer and tested it again. Even with the small id plumbing (5/8" in spots te clear tube in the body) it was pulling 24-25 SCFH. To put icing on the cake the water movement was over 30% less than before. MORE AIR, LESS WATER, HORAY BUBBLES! The water flow is under 400 gph.

If I restrict the water intake the air flow goes down, but it does not go down at the same ratio with the water. I don’t no the numbers yet but they seem very good. i.e.; if restrict the water uptake to say 200 gph it still pulls 20scfh I (I have not test this but it just seems that way.). That part just to points out the venture can use some tailoring. If I just play with the venture I could get it up to 40 (maybe) and we can still play with the gutter guard also.

removed 1 of the two paddle wheels (not an easy job)
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060151.JPG
not the same pump better pump for the photo OTP2000
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060150.JPG
I stacked all 4 and attached the 4 gutter guard wheels with 3 small zip-ties to the 1 remaining paddle wheels.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060131.JPG [/B][/QUOTE]

Roland by doing this you get more air? That's the only mod I haven't done on my 200. Maybe i should buy another needle and check it out. Don't really want to experiment with the only one I have. Keep us informed. Thanks

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8015424#post8015424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso


Roland by doing this you get more air? That's the only mod I haven't done on my 200. Maybe i should buy another needle and check it out. Don't really want to experiment with the only one I have. Keep us informed. Thanks [/B][/QUOTE]

I’ve been working the past 2 days so I have not had a lot of time to reply. Thank God for the work he brings me. It is a new service business and I need a lot more customers to try to make the bills.

Anyway my "Ghetto wheel" mod. Is not an experiment any more it is HUGE, AWESOME, KICKBUMS AND TAKE NAMES mod Suck-cess

As of a few hours ago I got one guy getting

“””42 SCFH = 20 lpm”””” :eek1: :eek2: :eek1:
That’s more than EHIEM, and than more than Euro Reef modded pumps…. I may be jumping ahead of myself (which I tend to do) but I think this will change the entire dynamics of the high end NW skimmers market. Im a little sad for them because I no they put a lot of money and time and marketing... in their pumps. And some DIY “Ghetto mod” comes along and beats them. I feel a little guilty. Anyway, sorry for rambling.

It a little tricky to do, but not to hard. If you want I can mod the wheel for you. I’ll call and see if they have extra impellers at Octopus.com or you can send me yours if you want just PM me. If you try it yourself be careful and take your time getting it apart, you could cut yourself bad very easily. It took me about 10 -20 minutes to get it apart without breaking it or cutting myself.

Chem E, my spelling really sucks bad, but my pump really sucks Good. :D

[clkwrk]

Like always want pictures darn it .

I wanna see the pump in a buket of saltwater with a meter. If it pulls that on the skimmer it should off of it . Better yet make a vid.

[Roland Jacques]

No please, no thank, no if you could, just
" Like always want pictures darn it ."

"I wanna see the pump in a buket of saltwater with a meter. If it pulls that on the skimmer it should off of it . Better yet make a vid."

clkwrk,
I may be wrong here, but it sounds your calling me a lyer or something. If so, could you please tell me why you think I would be lying about this stuff?

Do you just like seeing flow meters? I already posted pictures at 8 scfh 12 scfh 16 scfh 18 scfh and 21 scfh. Look at my gallery if you want. My skimmers is pulling 24-25 scfh . My gallery is full I cant post a photo without deleting others. (Which I will soon)
Im doing this to help people like myself, who may not have much money or whatever reason, with the hobby. And also so I can learn more aquarium stuff too. not to prove anything to anybody. Like I said before I enjoy doing this kind of stuff. So no photos for you, just put me down as a lyer if you must. The only thing I willing to prove to you is that God sent his son down to earth to save you and me, because basically we suck at being Holy. If you want pictures or a Video of that I don’t have any, but I have a book with a lot of good info in it, PM me and ill take as much time as you want to tell you what I know. If you need help moding your skimmer ill help you if I can, but im not going to play your prove it game about a skimmer modification.

Maybe someone on my bubble pump thread in the DIY forum may want to show you photos.

[clkwrk]

I never called you a liar . I just want to see some damn pics . I wanna see the 42 I wanna see you back your claim that you made above . A picture is worth a thousand words...If I can get this skimmer rocking it may have a place in my reef if not it makes a cute nightstand.


Also I wanna see someone else get so slap happy about theirs pulling in more than 15scfh

[ChemE]

What I'm deeply surprised about is that a 3.5" neck can tolerate that much air without being overly turbulent. With that much air we need to stick the pump on a 12" skimmer body with a 6" neck to get a stable foam head.

[Roland Jacques]

[QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8016579#post8016579 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
[B]
Chem-E
The neck size was one of my original concerns also. Ive only been running 25scfh on the skimmer for a about 36 hours very light load. The foam characteristics have changed a good bit. My foam is very dry now dryer than I like it. I can adjust the water height up a little and get a little wetter foam. But it nice to no that it can make super dry foam. One of the cool thing about the impeller is it is very forgiving I can restrict the air flow down a lot and not have the water flow jump up as much as before. Also I can control the air flow by restricting the water intake it does not seem to cavatate. It is pretty amazing.

I think a video is a good idea. Ill work on that I can’t give you a time on that, iv never done that before. ill get my son to help, that is his subject in high school. I will video a completely modified unit recirc, external NW200 im modifying for somebody. I would like to do a side by side test if anybody wants to bring their high end skimmer buy and run a few test that would be great. Just PM me.

If you want to discuss more on just the impeller go to my DIY impeller thread. Im not trying to over hype my impeller but it really deserves its own thread.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=914374&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

[Abengochea]

Ive been following this thread for a bit and its all really good info which I want to thank u guys for. I was curious though, with these mods are u still able to decide if u want to dry or wet skim? I was under the impression that once u have done these mods u basically will be wet skimming only

[danskim]

I think the purpose of the mods is to increase efficiency and therefore make drier skimmate.

[Abengochea]

cool, thats what I was hoping for

[RichConley]

I think I need to rebuild my venturi, either that, or I've hit the ceiling without modifying the clear tube inside the skimmer body.

I did the gutterguard mod, and I'm still sitting low-mid 20s. I'm gonna pull it out and run it on a bucket at some point, and see if the tube is the problem. After the gutter guard, it feels like the pump could take a lot more air. IE no hint of cavitation.

Roland, you mind giving a summary of everything you've done to the one thats pulling 42, so that I now what I missed?

[danskim]

The guy pulling 42 is using a different pump. GenX 4100 I think... It's on the separate thread.

[Ereefic]

There is an OTP-5000 pump (1250gph) that custom aquatics sells. Would this be too much for the NW-200?

[wjhuie]

Man I want to see four of those pumps doing 42scfh on the 16" octopus thats will be coming out in sept.

[Roland Jacques]

danskim
is right the pump getting 42 Scfh is a gen-x 4100. i'm preety sure i can match that with the otp- 3000. i think we're at the point that where no more air well go though the plumbing "the ceiling" like Rich said.

So making the pump pull more air is for after the next modifacation for me.

Rich,
30 SCFH is what my pump did off the skimmer. i still have the small opening on the pump as pictured. im glad to here it worked with your pump too i was a little concerned i was concerned with the larger output you have keep. you no all my mods i may have spent some extra time porting the elbow.

Ereefic,
i dont see any benift useing a bigger pump for this skimmer. i dont even no if it can handle what this pump can do.

[bspete]

Well I purchased the DNW-200 recirc model and was pulling 5 lpm through the stock setup. Thanks to the help here at reef central I just opened up the throat of the pump output by 5/8" and cleaned the venturi with a small drill bit and now I am pulling 8/lpm (unsure what that is in SCFH) but a significant jump to be sure. You would think they would be optimized from the factory, however if it just takes an hour of time to double check/modify and it costs so much less then it is still a great value. Many thanks again to all you experimenters. I would have never thought that it could be improved so much with so little.

Thanks,
Bryan

[kroe]

Roland had a great idea with porting the elbow. Don't let the way he did it make you think you have to buy grinding stones to do this mod. I just drilled mine out with a 5/8 spade bit. It took less than a minute. I ground it out a bit more with a dremel, but even if you just ported the narrow port out with the spade bit it would be a huge improvement.

[blakeoe]

Does anyone have a problem with the pump not starting on it's own? I have to blow into my air line tube to get my pump to work. Is this normal?

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8017204#post8017204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
I think I need to rebuild my venturi, either that, or I've hit the ceiling without modifying the clear tube inside the skimmer body.

I did the gutterguard mod, and I'm still sitting low-mid 20s. I'm gonna pull it out and run it on a bucket at some point, and see if the tube is the problem. After the gutter guard, it feels like the pump could take a lot more air. IE no hint of cavitation.

Roland, you mind giving a summary of everything you've done to the one thats pulling 42, so that I now what I missed?

On a wierd note, I got up this morning, and its pulling 30 on the skimmer. Maybe hte gutterguard straightened out or somehting.

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8021201#post8021201 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bspete
Well I purchased the DNW-200 recirc model and was pulling 5 lpm through the stock setup. Thanks to the help here at reef central I just opened up the throat of the pump output by 5/8" and cleaned the venturi with a small drill bit and now I am pulling 8/lpm (unsure what that is in SCFH) but a significant jump to be sure. You would think they would be optimized from the factory, however if it just takes an hour of time to double check/modify and it costs so much less then it is still a great value. Many thanks again to all you experimenters. I would have never thought that it could be improved so much with so little.

Thanks,
Bryan

5lpm is about 10.5 SCHF
8lpm is about 16.8 SCFH

[Roland Jacques]

The Skimmer fairy came to my house also last night. :mixed: :confused: :D :eek1: :rollface:
i turned the air down to 21 last night and this morning 25 scfh. wide open 28 scfh. on the skimmer!!!!

I got to go and thank God, and ask for some more help with this one. i guess i no what im doing after church today.

Unbelivable

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/26018P1060158.JPG

[Ereefic]

It sounds like it is not pulling a consistant amount of air? Is this the case?

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8022405#post8022405 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
It sounds like it is not pulling a consistant amount of air? Is this the case?

I dont think its that. When I originally went to the gutter wheel, mine was pulling 25. THe next morning it was pulling 30. I think its something to do with the gutter guard chunks alligning themselves or something.

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8022405#post8022405 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
It sounds like it is not pulling a consistant amount of air? Is this the case?
:lol: Yeah it is definitely the case over the first 12 hours anyway.
When I tested the other one I watched it, and just adjusted it trying to get dry foam. This time I just put it together adjusted it to get a wetter foam and went to bed. Good thing was cup only had 1/4 cup of skimmate in it.
It definitely went up 4 SCFH over 12 hours. I agree with Rich, I think the centrifugal force straightened out the material, and performance improved.

Tip number 43, wait 24 hours before doing final adjustment to the skimmer. When you have the Ghetto wheel, GG wheel, RoJac wheel, what ever we call it.

[wjhuie]

Does MS have any Xtra NW for sale?

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8023595#post8023595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
Does MS have any Xtra NW for sale?

That's a good question!! I've emailed them twice now and still response. Although it's only been a couple of days. I'm also looking for the gray type venturi. Mine came with I'm guessing the older style.
Does anybody know if for certain the gray style works any better. I modified the black style and installed a second air inlet. It does seem to pull more air.
Can anybody tell me where to get shcf guage?

[Covey]

Here you go.
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesMMPrice.cfm#CRA

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8023595#post8023595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wjhuie
Does MS have any Xtra NW for sale?

Custom Aquatics has the replacement pumps (on there site) and they say they have the NW impellers (not on there site) too. Should hear back from them tomorrow on a price.

[ChemE]

You guys keep saying Custom Aquatics has replacement pumps but I don't see OTP pumps anywhere on their site. How about a link?

[Deuce67]

Here is my version of the venturi mod on my RPS 2000. Basically I cut off the venturi stem and tapped the hole to a 1/8 npt.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/59905venturi1__800_x_600_.jpg

I then inserted a piece of 3/16 rigid tubing into a 1/8mpt X 1/4 JG fitting. I had to ream out the JG a bit for the rigid tubing to fit. Glued the tubing on and cut the end at an angle.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/59905venturi2__800_x_600_.jpg

I just marked the JG fitting where the opening of the tubing is so I know where the opening is. I just use an RO tubing for my venturi hose.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/59905venturi3__800_x_600_.jpg

It works a lot better than the stock venturi IMO since I have not had to blow into the tube to start the bubbles everytime I shut off the pump or if the power went off.

[Deuce67]

As for my pinwheel mod, basically I just used a Sedra 5000 pinwheel. I cut off the shaft a bit and used some maxijet rubber end tips for the ends of the shaft. This brought my air lpm from around 5-6 lpm to around 8 lpm.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/59905pinwheel__800_x_600___750_x_563_.jpg

I think Im going to try the RoJac gutter mod here and see if I can get this thing to pull around 10 lpms.

[Robert Patterso]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8023916#post8023916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Covey
Here you go.
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesMMPrice.cfm#CRA
Thanks Covey, now i can see what my skimmer is doing exactly

[ChemE]

I'd recommend you go with the 5" scale rather than the mini master. The bounce will span a much smaller portion of the scale and you'll be able to take much more precise readings.

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8024382#post8024382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
You guys keep saying Custom Aquatics has replacement pumps but I don't see OTP pumps anywhere on their site. How about a link?

voila (http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=ps-ac-pm)

[Ereefic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8024382#post8024382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
You guys keep saying Custom Aquatics has replacement pumps but I don't see OTP pumps anywhere on their site. How about a link?


There under 'skimmer replacement parts and accessories'.

http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=ps-ac-pm

[Avast Marine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8024578#post8024578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
I'd recommend you go with the 5" scale rather than the mini master. The bounce will span a much smaller portion of the scale and you'll be able to take much more precise readings.

rmb-52???? (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesRMPrice.cfm#CRA)

[Roland Jacques]

Just a report on my latest mod. Well, I think we gone beyond the air capacity of the skimmer/ neck. Currently I have been running the air wide open. Today it has crept up a little more to right at 29 scfh. The water level is just below the BOTTOM of the transition of the body to the neck. Even though the water level is in the skimmer body, it is working great and foam is very dry. It easy to reduce the air flow so this is not a problem. I could even just remove a disk from my impeller. That would also decrease the water flow and watts draw.

FWIW, I found Kill-a Watt meters locally at the Harbor Freight Store $25.00. Im picking one up tomorrow.

[outy]

Deuce67

can you eplain the pinwheel mod a little better

i want to do the rojac gutter mod to the sedra 3500

any ideas would be helpful

[Ereefic]

Roland, what is your explanation for the skimmer pulling more air after 12 hours? For some reason, that doesn't seem like it should be doing that.

[clkwrk]

Has anyone thought about the strain on the pump?

[Robert Patterso]

has anybody noticed an increase in temperature after installing their otp 200 nw? Since mine was installed my tank temp. has gone up 3 deg. From 79 during the day to 82. It has never run over 79. Not to happy about it.:sad2: I think the skimmer is great, would like to figure out what to do about it though. A chiller is not really in cards, would be a last alternative.

[Covey]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8025238#post8025238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques

FWIW, I found Kill-a Watt meters locally at the Harbor Freight Store $25.00. Im picking one up tomorrow.

crkwrk I think he is on it.

Anyone moding these should have a killawatt or the old fashion V/A meter and some math. As moding the pump without it could get you more airflow but at the cost of burning out the pump.

Roland I lost track but what do you think the max air is for this giving neck and what leads you to believe this?

Again I don't remember and the new model number confuse me what RO are you moding?

[Abengochea]

I want to do the mod to the elbow but want to make sure I get it right. With using a 5/8 bit, i just drill straight through? Or do I have to shave more than the width of the bit? In other words how big can the hole be without going through the elbow?

[MadTownMax]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8024599#post8024599 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
voila (http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=ps-ac-pm)

wow - those are some seriously cheap needlewheels! :eek2: