I'm About to Give Up! Please, Help!

[Greg129]

I do not know how to get ride of this algae (see my gallery for pics). There is a thick greenish brown algae growing on 75% of my sandbed,
brown alge growing on the glass, and various algae such as mermaid's cup growing on the rocks. Is there anything I can do? Could I just remove the whole sandbed?

[whatevva]

We would need to know all you water parms. (everything that you test for)

Feeding habits?(and types of food)

Lighting Cycles?(and what type of lighting)

[Greg129]

I'll go test now. I feed the fish once per day for two minutes. Right now, I alternate between frozen Emerald Entree and frozen zooplankton. The lights are on for 10-12 hours per day. Light specifics are in my signature.

[yoboyjdizz]

might trying shorting your light cycle while you find out what the cause is.. Also could need to change bulbs this happen to me once. Also maybe phosphate levels are high.. Also had a phosphate problem and notice tons of this brown algae all over my sand..

[2crazyreefers]

You may want to cut back on feeding to once per day and try the flake food. Many people I know have had a tendancy to overfeed with the frozen. Also are you using RO water ? and doing good water changes ?

[renko]

Are you using RO/DI water? If not, I'd start immediately. Also, I'd do frequent small water changes until the problem is under control. Also, if you don't have a refugium, start one.

[yoboyjdizz]

RO/DI could be the case as well i forgot to mention i was using tap before i got one with i had the phosphate problem... I don't think he is overfeeding he does only feed once per day.

[Hop]

By looking at this picture I have a hunch and only a hunch...
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/85887greg.jpg

That his sandbed is releasing phosphates. it's too shallow for a DSB and there has probably had little or no care, vacuuming, replacing the SSB. I'm not 100% sure...

But if it were my tank I would likely siphon the algae and sand out and replace it with new, do a water change, skim wet and test, test and test...

[Greg129]

To answer some questions: I'm using bottled water from the grocery store. It's labeled distilled, but I called the company, and they said that it was also purified by reverse osmosis. I know for a fact that my bulbs need replaced - they are 8 months old. But, the algae started getting bad even before the bulbs needed replaced. I have no sump and no refugium. The sandbed is aragonite. Could this be releasing the phosphate? Would it hurt to vacuum up the sand and replace it? Could I vacuum up the sand and leave it bare bottom? Thanks for the help so far.

[Scottkelly911]

To me it sounds like your phosphates are too high. I would start by using a good phosphate sponge/remover and do several small water changes. Since you've got a 65 Gallon, I'd use the sponge/remover and then do about approx 5% water changes every other day for about a week, starting 1 day later. If that's too much attention, then do two 15% water changes about 3 days apart, starting 2 days after you put in the phosphate sponge/remover. I wouldn't worry too much about taking out the sand, I'd stir it up really good and do a big water change, maybe about 20%, prior to doing the sponge/remover. It's really important that you use good water when making your changes though because your params are going to be pretty volatile during this "cleansing" period and you don't want to stress the fish/corals too much during this time. Definitely change your lights when you get the chance since they're old. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out no matter what you decide to do.

[Hop]

Run it by the reef chemistry forum. I think we could be guessing for a while and make sure if you use a phosphate remover that it does not contain aluminum. Also using a phosphate remover is only just a band aid. If it's like I suspect, then the sand bed will need to come out before your tank crashes. JMO though:)

[Greg129]

Thanks for your helps guys. I hardly have any sand after I removed a lot of it along with some hair algae a few months ago. There's even some bare spots where I can see the bottom glass of the tank. So would it hurt too much to get ride of the sandbed and either replace it or go bare bottom? Then, I'll do as Scottkelly911 recommended with the phophate remover and series of water changes. How does that sound?

[Creade]

Id definately cut back on the feeding. As well as the photoperiod.
Clean the sand, skim as wet as you can handle, change your bulbs.

How often do you do water changes?
And how long has the tank been setup?
You said youve had this problem since before the bulbs needed changing, so how long has it been going on?

Personally, id probably run a phosphate remover while I was working on all of the above as well.

[Greg129]

I do a 10% water change every 2 weeks.
The tank has been setup for 7 months.
Problems started 2 months ago.

How does this sound - First, I replace the bulbs. Then, I remove the sandbed and do a 25% water change. After I remove the sandbed, I run a phosphate remover for a week while doing 5% water changes every other day. I test, if levels are good, I'll add a deep sandbed. Good plan, or no?

[Sk8r]

It should give you a much better basis. What a deep sand bed does is layer itself into zones of bacteria that process waste all the way to nitrogen gas. You'll see bubbles rise from it. You'll see shadowing of it on the front glass---and you may get a mini-cycle from this process of dsb replacement, and maybe even another algae spike, but this one will be [hopefully] brief and respond to a cleaning crew. Whatever you do once it's established---don't overturn the layers. Protect its integrity, though you may have creatures like nassarius and conchs that delve into it for cleaning.
The right species of urchin might be a help. New bulbs, a good skimmer, good feeding habits and a log book of tests so you can spot a trend and remedy a slide toward a situation before it becomes a situation---and you should be golden.

[Greg129]

Thanks, Sk8r. I have a wrasse that loves to sleep in the sand. If I were to add a dsb, would he be detrimental to it? Wouldn't him sleeping in the sand and stirring it around cause mini cycles and algae to grow?

How deep should a deep sand bed actually be? What type of sand should I use? Would aragonite again be okay?

[Greg129]

bump

[scaryperson27]

Do you have a seperate tank you can set up for your fish while you are curing this tank of the algae problem? I had a pea soup issue. What I did to get rid of the problem and worked for me was a refugium (competes with algae in the tank), carbon, phosphate remover, and chemipure. I did a 15 gallon waterchange every week. I lost a wrass in the process though which is why I advise you set up a seperate tank to house your fish.

[Hop]

4-6" for a DSB.

For a SSB 1" max and feel free to siphon and stir as needed. Replace the siphoned sand out with new every so often.

I subscribe to the barebottom theory, but hate the look of it:)

[Sk8r]

Not at all: I have a conch that spends days rummaging about down under, and it doesn't disturb enough of the dsb at one time to have any effect. You've got a 65, which is 10g bigger than mine, and with my dsb, it's no particular effect. What really gets the bad stuff going is if the human owner gets in there with a siphon or the input of a pump and blasts a whole corner up at once. You get a nasty cloud of white, and general bad stuff. I've seen tanks where the whole bed got overturned at once, with really bad effects, but your little wrasse won't do any damage. His digging will probably score a few copepods, but he'll be fine and they should outproduce him; and once your copepods start multiplying they'll help you with algae growth, too. I feed phyto daily to encourage copepods and sponges and the filter feeders and my clam, and I think it does help with the microlife. Until your tank is really booming with life I wouldn't feed that often, but a little now and again might be beneficial. I don't think copepods are often mentioned as a method of algae control, but where they exist bigtime, algae doesn't dominate, in my own experience.

[Hop]

I second what sk8r said for a DSB. He may have needed to clarify that as our two posts I feel are saying the same thing, but could have been interpreted different:D

[richfavinger]

Just to add, I would get some PhosBan and add it to a small canister filter or setup there PhosBan Reactor with a small pump per directions (it only needs about 75gph flow max). Fight threw it, we all get Algae at one time or another. I consider it "RIght of Passage". :D

Green, Brown, Red... after that it's all good, then we get purple. And still need to scrape it LOL:rolleyes:

[aclos3]

Feed as little as possible while you are working on this, reduce your lighting to 6-8 hours per day (it doesnt look like you have too many corals to worry about from your pictures).

You can buy cheap phosphate removing pads. They usually come in a 10" square sheet, and you can cut it to fit your filter. I started using one of these when I had bottom algal growth and it worked wonders. I also do not have a sump or skimmer currently on my 18g tank.

[renko]

I'd recommend trying to find the problem before implementing too many fixes. Have you tested for phosphates and nitrate? If phosphates are high, you need to find out why. They are getting into your tank somehow and if you don't eliminate the source, your problems will continue with or without PhosBan. Replacing the sand may help for a while but the problem will return if you don't eliminate the phosphate source. If the problem is nitrates, the DSB could definately help along with more frequent water changes.

[Angel*Fish]

As far as the feeding goes - I'd switch to different foods - for algae eaters, try and get them on a nori clip and change it daily, always rinsing the clip well
For zooplankton, try solid whole foods like PE brand mysis and thaw and rinse with RO water (in a net) before feeding to tank.

There is no way the fish are getting all the Emerald Entree as some of it is mush & thus going straight to your tank without passing first through your fish. Not something I personally would add to my tank very often. And if I was having algae issues, I'd toss it in the trash.

Don't jump either way on the DSB/BB issue until you have read thoroughly on each. Either method done wrong will simply encourage algae growth.

Being a lazy reefer, I like the DSB. the thought of ever having to get in there and physically vacuum the tank turns me green around the gills ;)

-2x Maxijet 1200 Powerheads
Not sure what's going on as far as return pumps... but it sounds to me like you might want to think about adding a Seio (or better) for some more circulation

[Angel*Fish]

What is mermaid's cup algae?

Since most of your algae problem has been on the SB, you still have time to keep it off the rocks. Regarding bryopsis --If you see a little of it sprouting up on the rocks, try not to remove it manually as that is just going to spread it. A tiny patch can be nipped in the bud by covering it with some under water epoxy.

If it's isolated to one or 2 rocks they can be removed from your tank.

While it's very true that you need to discover a source for this problem, changing the water, say twice a week for 2 weeks can be a wonderful quick fix to keep something like bryopsis from from over running your tank. Once bropsis takes hold, it is very very hard to eradicate.

Bryopsis info (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167632&highlight=bryopsis)

[Greg129]

Just to clarify, I don't have any corals, I do have a protein skimmer - a Remora Pro, there is some hair algae on the rocks, but not near as bad as what is on the sand, and mermaid's cup is Acetabularia, which is identified as a "good algae" on wetwebmedia, so I guess I shouldn't have to worry about that. I have no return pumps or anything since I don't have a sump or refugium.

I think I'm going to order some new light bulbs, get them in, have them on a 6 - 8 hour light schedule, run some phosphate remover, do 5% water changes every other day, feed the fish using less messy foods, skim wet, add another Maxijet for more flow, and see how it goes. That's a lot of changes so maybe they'll help.

Questions: what types and brands of food are not messy? what brand of phosphate remover should I buy?

Thanks.

[RichConley]

you need more flow, and a better skimmer.

Do you have a sump?

How much skimmate do you get?

[trigger111]

You said you were using store bought water. Check the nitrates and phosphates of the water. I too was using distilled/Ro water for some time and was having algae problems. I checked the nitrates 20 ppm and phosphates 0.2. As soon as I saw this I bought an RO/DI unit and haven't had any trouble since. By the way the RO/DI unit is way more cost effective in the long run than buying water at the grocery store.

[Angel*Fish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7893590#post7893590 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Greg129
Just to clarify, I don't have any corals, I do have a protein skimmer - a Remora Pro, there is some hair algae on the rocks, but not near as bad as what is on the sand, and mermaid's cup is Acetabularia, which is identified as a "good algae" on wetwebmedia, so I guess I shouldn't have to worry about that. I have no return pumps or anything since I don't have a sump or refugium.

I think I'm going to order some new light bulbs, get them in, have them on a 6 - 8 hour light schedule, run some phosphate remover, do 5% water changes every other day, feed the fish using less messy foods, skim wet, add another Maxijet for more flow, and see how it goes. That's a lot of changes so maybe they'll help.

Questions: what types and brands of food are not messy? what brand of phosphate remover should I buy?

Thanks.

The Acetabularia is nice stuff if you can grow it :)
I'd add 2 b-i-g maxijets or a big Seio - IMO your money is better spend here & on skimmer upgrades than new bulbs

If your water is out of sealed jugs, normally it should be safe, especially name brand like Ozarka. If it's from the machine, it's an on site RO system just like what you'd buy for your self. Which i highly reccommend - eliminating buckets/bottles from water changes was like waking up from a bad dream :D Another place i'd spend the money instead of new bulbs. --- Oh anyway if they don't change the RO membrane often enough, you might as well be using tap water & Cl drops.

I hate to sound ignorant - but what exactly are new bulbs supposed to accomplish in this case since we are not lighting a reef tank? I bought 6700k's for my fuge and still couldn't grow chaeto in there -- Finally after skipping more water changes than I care to admit & thus letting the phosphates and nitrates build up, it grows just fine - still trying to figure out if I'm better off ;)

Foods: Whole frzen foods- the less mangled the better. PE mysis is well-known for being unmangled which is much better for your fish because they get the whole animal just like they would in the wild (Of course they would never actually get any PE mysis because it is actually a freshwater creature )

if your algae eaters will take to eating dried nori (comes in red, grenn and brown) it stays pretty solid until they eat it once you get the hang of iit - but the clip will get nasty ( will add nutrients)if you don't wash it every day

[Angel*Fish]

-2x False Perculas
-1x Halichoeres Wrasse
-1x Coral Beauty Angelfish

Is this everyone? The CB will get lots of microalgae & other misc. items off the LR in your tank.
the percs like some algae and may not take to a clip - actually if that's your fish list, clip may not be worth bothering with --

The Hikari brand frozen foods tend to be pretty "clean"
Actually for your clowns, you could buy a gel bound food like Formula I and cut it into chunks and squirt in their direction with the turkey baster to make sure little/none of it dissolves in the water.

[Greg129]

I'm using sealed jugs of water. I just tested the bottled water for nitrates and it showed to be zero. I don't have a phosphate test kit.

For flow, I have two Maxijet 1200's. They're on a wave maker so there is really only one on at a time.

Yes, that is my whole fish list.

Will I be able to find a phosphate remover at Petsmart or Petco? Can the phopshate remover be placed in an Aquaclear?

Thanks.

[Angel*Fish]

For flow, I have two Maxijet 1200's. They're on a wave maker so there is really only one on at a time.
Flow may then be your primary problem

They're on a wave maker so there is really only one on at a time.
I hate every one who has a wavemaker because i am jealous :D
Will I be able to find a phosphate remover at Petsmart or Petco?
IMO yes just buy any of them - but don't get anything that has the word, "resin" anywhere on the container

Don't know what an Aquaclear is -

[Angel*Fish]

Uh oh - just looked up Aquaclear... people are going to tell you they are nitrate factories and this is the source of your algae problem - which may or may not be true. You can set it up like a mini-fuge, right? or is that what it is? Still not sure exactly what it does.
How is the biological filtration done is there a biowheel or what? I couldn't tell from the pictures.
And yes, it's the perfect thing to run your phosphate filter in
The truth is, if you have enough LR and/or DSB, you probably don't need this thing except for the circulation issue (powerhead could replace that )
It is handy for things like running carbon (or phosphate) and for some mechanical - )

[trigger111]

I would check your phosphate levels before you buy a phosphate remover. If you have a phosphate problem use rowa phos. The other phosphate removers are a mess and IMO not all that great. Pet smart or pet co won't have it but a LFS or an online vender will. And from someone who to once carried dozens of gallons of bottled water through the grocery store, do your self a favor and get a ro/di unit. You will save money within the first three months, and get rid of all of the empty water jugs laying around the house.

[Greg129]

The Aquaclear is a powerfilter. It has no biowheel. It's just basically a plastic box that allows water to run through it. I don't have it running in my tank. I just have it in case I need to run carbon or something.

[Angel*Fish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7894739#post7894739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by trigger111
I would check your phosphate levels before you buy a phosphate remover. If you have a phosphate problem use rowa phos. The other phosphate removers are a mess and IMO not all that great. Pet smart or pet co won't have it but a LFS or an online vender will. And from someone who to once carried dozens of gallons of bottled water through the grocery store, do your self a favor and get a ro/di unit. You will save money within the first three months, and get rid of all of the empty water jugs laying around the house.

RO system -yes it will save money - good point
Not sure I agree on buying a Phosphate test - just because you test negative doesn't necessarily mean you won't benefit from running a PO4 sponge--- there are tons of threads regarding this. If your phosphate is totally off the charts, it would be good to know, but it seems unlikely to me from what you describe -
The $20 for the test could go for the Ro system or some powerheads at least IMO

If you do a phosphate sponge, btw an unused kneehigh stocking is much cheaper than those bags they sell at the LFS and you can just throw it away when you've finished with it.

[Angel*Fish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7894753#post7894753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Greg129
The Aquaclear is a powerfilter. It has no biowheel. It's just basically a plastic box that allows water to run through it. I don't have it running in my tank. I just have it in case I need to run carbon or something.
Oh, thanks sounds like a great idea then :)

[trigger111]

A good test kit (salifert) should be accurate enough to show if there is indeed a phosphate problem. I suggest a test kit because why would you spend the money on a phosphate remover, which aren’t cheap and need to be replaced to remain effective. A twenty dollar test kit would show if a phosphate remover was necessary or not. Phosphate sponges are not required to rid the aquarium of algae. In an elaborate reef aquarium I can see running a phosphate sponge even if phosphates are not an issue, but the aquarium described in this thread a phosphate remover wouldn’t be necessary unless the phosphate levels were really elevated. If you are using supplements/additives you should test for them, or how else would you know if they are working or even serving a purpose. You most likely don't need a phosphate remover, but a test kit would confirm that before you drop 25 dollars a month replacing the media. When trying to diagnose a problem stabbing in the dark and just adding supplements and additives to the tank isn't going to solve anything. If you need a phosphate sponged then use it, but if you don't why spend the money. The tank you described won't see any great improvements if you start using a phosphate sponge if phosphates aren’t an issue.

[renko]

Probably a dumb question but you don't wash any of your equipment or tools with dish soap do you?

[zemuron114]

hows your flow? Do you have a clean up crew? A remora pro should skim the crap out of a 65 gallon.
I would start by syphoning the sand and adding more flow to keep everything suspended.

[Angel*Fish]

but a test kit would confirm that before you drop 25 dollars a month replacing the media
If somebody suggested running phosphate all the time I sure missed it! I, personally, was thinking of something like $10 worth for several days just to "sop up" any small accumulation he might have - Water changes would accomplish this also

But IMO focusing on phosphates at this point is not indicated which is why I wouldn't get a test right now if I was him - that's why I might run a sponge for a few days but leave the phosphate issue for later. No reason not to test for phosphates right now except to use the $20 toward a new skimmer.

Greg, what you've described sounds like your problem is due to improper circulation and, as Rich pointed out, the need for better skimming. If you fix these two things I doubt you'll be needing extra phosphate export in the way of sponges at all.

You have to circulate the water well for the offending substances to reach your skimmer. It sounds like they are just sitting on the bottom of your tank. You have a light bioload - there's an argument to be made that improved circulation will fix this. But better skimming always = happier reefer :D Expect some "spikes" at first when you start whooshing that water around - be ready with water changes (& skimmer cup emptying)

If this was my tank & if money is an issue, I'd say skip the test & the sponge and buy an awesome skimmer & more power heads. Find a used one from someone who is upgrading to a bazillion g tank - try your local reef club bulletin board

If money is not an issue get the test, then read the threads that explain that "0" reading doesn't necessarily mean you don't have a PO4 problem & decide what to do. Then buy a h-u--g-e skimmer and a couple of those new cool powerheads or some Tunzes. While your at it , since money isn't an issue in this scenario, you might as well double your tank size - I mean as long as our at the LFS already. :D

[Greg129]

Here's an update for you all. I did a 10% water change and siphoned along the bottom a little. I didn't take out any sand or algae but a fair amount of fish or snail waste. Like you said, the poop is just sitting down there and fueling the algae. I added another MJ1200 for a total of three. Since I have a wavemaker, only two are on at a time. I also added the Aquaclear 500 without any sponges or media for additional flow. Is this too little flow, too much flow, or just enough? A lot of algae began floating around the tank after I put in the extra MJ, which made me wish that I had something I could put a filter sock on to get it out. I also lowered the water level so that it is closer to the skimmer's intake. Hopefully, this will give me a better skim. Tomorrow, I'm going to place an order for new power compact bulbs and take a trip to the lfs for some "cleaner" Hikari foods and phosphate remover. I'm trying to get back on track. I'll keep you updated on how it goes.

[Greg129]

bump.

[Angel*Fish]

Sounds like a plan :)
and phosphate remover.
Maybe save the phosphate sponge for last. IOW wait till your skimmer has had a chance to pull as much out as possible & add it maybe after another water change. Or whenever your system has restablized.

In my opinion you need more than those 3 maxijets. It helps to keep the Aquaclear on like you're doing. When you can, I think it would be of great benefit to add at least 1 big Seio - they may not appeal to you because they can't be used on your wave maker, but you can still run the maxijets creatively
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_powerheads_pumps_taam_seio.asp?CartId=
I have 2 of the 1500's + 2 maxijets and double returns on my 100g and still it's not quite enough flow (might be if I rearranged the rocks)
When you mount them like this They aren't all that unsightly - the amazing amount of flow they produce is worth it
http://www.marinedepot.com/IMD/powerheads_taam_seio_3.jpghttp://www.marinedepot.com/IMD/powerheads_taam_seio_5.jpg

[Greg129]

Okay, I'll hold off on the phosphate remover. When should I do the next water change and how many percent? Also, would it hurt to add some cleaners? I only have 3 Astria snails right now. If so, what cleaners would you recommend and how many? My wrasse has eaten snails that have fell upside down on the sandbed so I'm not sure what would work.

[Greg129]

bump.

[Greg129]

bump

[Greg129]

Okay, I'll hold off on the phosphate remover. When should I do the next water change and how many percent? Also, would it hurt to add some cleaners? I only have 3 Astria snails right now. If so, what cleaners would you recommend and how many? My wrasse has eaten snails that have fell upside down on the sandbed so I'm not sure what would work.

[Greg129]

Bump

[Angel*Fish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7899905#post7899905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Greg129
Okay, I'll hold off on the phosphate remover. When should I do the next water change and how many percent? Also, would it hurt to add some cleaners? I only have 3 Astria snails right now. If so, what cleaners would you recommend and how many? My wrasse has eaten snails that have fell upside down on the sandbed so I'm not sure what would work.
Can you refresh my memory and tell me whaqt you've done in the way of water changes over the 2-4 weeks?

I'm probably not a good person to ask about the cleaning crew - I am rather extreme about that issue :D

If it was me, I would get rid of any fish which eats snails & omit all crabs completely. Hermits especially kill the snails for their shells (and dinner I suppose)
I'd probably have 1 or maybe 2 turbos, and then buy some of those cerinths maybe 5 & let them reproduce in the tank
Even though you don't have a DSB, I'd get some nice LS from the best sources i could find like local reefers who know they have mysis and worms reproducing in their tanks.

I'd obtain some of those little feather dusters that reproduce in your tank. i'd feed some DT's or other live phyto plankton every other day to help encourage populations of various pods.

As long as we're saying it's me :D - I'd buy enough Caribsea sugar size oolitic sand to create a depth of 4 in. minimum and seed regularly (like a cup of nice live sand once a month )

Also to keep the pods inverts (my cleaner crew) happy/alive:
I wouldn't have any voracious pod eaters like 6-line wrasses - I do keep 2 spotted mandarins, but they won't decimate the populations to the same degree as certain wrasses & other fish - I also don't keep worm eaters like dottybacks or copperband butterfly

I saw your question last night and didn't answer because I was hoping some other reefer would tell you what to do.
I believe so much in the way I run my inverts & DSB that I don't know how to tell you different.

Now that I've posted this , someone with another opinion may chime in and give you an answer that suits you better. I promise not to start a flame war ;)

[Greg129]

I've got an update for you. Two days ago, I did a 5% water change and added a Yellow Tang and Pin Cushion Urchin to help with the hair algae. I'm very happy with the job the Tang is doing. He eats the algae up like spagetti. Today, I got sick of looking at the hair algae swaying in the current. So, I manually removed as much as I could with a net. I took a lot of sand with it (pics in my gallery). Then, I did a 15% water change with "stale" Instant Ocean salt that had caked. Hopefully, adding the stale salt won't be too much of a problem. I already placed an order for new bulbs. The next thing on my list is an R.O. unit. My budget is in the $100 to $150 range. Could someone link me to the site where I can buy a efficient yet easy to
operate unit? Thanks.

[Greg129]

I've got an update for you. Two days ago, I did a 5% water change and added a Yellow Tang and Pin Cushion Urchin to help with the hair algae. I'm very happy with the job the Tang is doing. He eats the algae up like spagetti. Today, I got sick of looking at the hair algae swaying in the current. So, I manually removed as much as I could with a net. I took a lot of sand with it (pics in my gallery). Then, I did a 15% water change with "stale" Instant Ocean salt that had caked. Hopefully, adding the stale salt won't be too much of a problem. I already placed an order for new bulbs. The next thing on my list is an R.O. unit. My budget is in the $100 to $150 range. Could someone link me to the site where I can buy a efficient yet easy to operate unit? Thanks.

[richfavinger]

SpectraPure, I have there 5-Stage Unit (SP-2000). Not $150 or less, but they have smaller systems. They are the best in my view, and since water is like the heart of your system, get the best you can.

http://www.spectrapure.com/ or call (800) 685-2783

[Angel*Fish]

Greg,

I don't know that we ever established exactly what kind of hair algae you have.

1)If you could please post a new/better photo, that could help a lot

2) Have you noticed any change in the algae growth since your water changes?

3) Is your new powerhead directed such that it sweeps the bottom area?

4) I could be mistaken, but I believe urchins prefer calcareous algaes - that said, if conditions are right for those to grow in your tank, I read that though they eat your coralline algae, they also help spread new growth thru their feces - not sure about that either - sorry

5) Have you added any chaeto to your system? When nitrates creep up, it good to put some in the main tank, as it's easy to control and will compete with other nasty undesirable algae?

[richfavinger]

Beating Green Hair Algae
http://www.melevsreef.com/gha.html
and
Nitrates: They Can Be Beaten Down Into Submission
http://www.melevsreef.com/reducing_nitrates.html