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Apostle
08/18/2006, 02:16 AM
Hi,

I’ve a few questions concerning microbubbles. I’m in the process of adding a sump to my setup. I’m slowly removing all the bioballs before I get rid of my canister filter. I’d never really thought about microbubbles much as I get practically none from my skimmer.

Whenever I take a few bioballs out and turn my filter back on, there is a surge and the display fills with microbubbles for a minute or so. This has led me to post here and find out a bit more.

What are the obvious mistakes I should avoid when adding the sump? Here are all the details. My tank is 60 gals. My cabinet has a centre divide and I’m not a DIY man so I’m going to have 2 small sumps. Both 12” x 12” with a height of 20”. I will have an overflow which has 2 outlets to feed the sumps and then 2 return pumps.

I’ve seen an overflow that has a 1,400 LPH flow rate, so that’s a flow rate of 184 GPH through each sump. I’m sure I read somewhere that the flow through a sump should be a turn over of 3-5 times the display to help avoid microbubbles – is this correct? My would be at 3 times through each sump with this set up. The extra flow my tank needs will be via a powerhead. As I’m short on space I plan on each sump have just 1 compartment overflowing to where the return pump is.

These sumps will purely be a place for all my equipment. I’m going to have a separate fuge in time.

How do things sound? – any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Dave

kau_cinta_ku
08/18/2006, 02:29 AM
that sounds like it will work. also to help stop microbubbles from entering the sumps just add filter socks to the drains if you don't have micro bubbles in the sump you shouldn't get them in the main tank unless you have a air leak in your return line

Apostle
08/18/2006, 04:28 AM
Thanks,

With regards to filter socks. Am I right in thinking that media such as phosphate remover or active carbon could be put in these – that would mean they would be no need for me to buy a phosban reactor.