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View Full Version : 65 gallon reef ready new tank with sump trouble


zachstone13
08/18/2006, 04:04 AM
I just got a 65 gallon rr tank stand and canopy. I put a 175 10k halide on it, with 2 36 inch vhos for lighting. I wasnt sure what to do with the sump, but decided to get a 20 long and make simple sump. I had a guy at the lfs glue in 3 baffles, one where the water enters and goes thru filter media on an egg crate, then over a baffle to a fuge, then over a baffle, under a bubble trap, where it is skimmed and sent back to the tank. I have a couple problems. The pump i have is much bigger than needed, i believe its a dolphin that does around 1500 gallons per hour. I will have to check on the exact model and #'s. I had 6 inches of 1 inch pvc coming down from the bulkhead where the water exits the tank. It elbowed and then went horizontally across the filter media to fall spread out on top of it. When it ran this way, the pump quickly pumped more water than could be drained, until the tank nearly overflowed. I ended up taking off all elbows, the water just barrels into the sponge and splashes. It runs like this with no problems but splashing. I was looking at melevs designs and was thinking about making a fuge that worked better than this makeshift one. Should i return the pump i have and get a weaker one. I always thought the higher the flow the better. I will post pics in about a week. Thanks!!!

flycasterjosh
08/18/2006, 06:42 AM
I am no expert, Zach, but do you have something plumbed in to control the flow of the pump? If not, that is a necessity in the case of many of these larege pumps. You definitely want too much flow vs. not enough when it comes to a pump, but if you dont have a way to control it you are trying to drink from a fire hose!

-J

Wombat_101
08/18/2006, 08:38 AM
If the pump is pressure rated you can put a ball valve or gate valve after the water exits the pump. Then you dial down on the valve until the water flow up is equal to the overflow down.

Melev also recommends I beleive no more than 300gph flow into the sump and to create the extra water movement inside the tank.

rooroo
08/18/2006, 10:37 AM
Wish I had a photo of the suggestion I have for throttling down the pump without putting back pressure on it.

I'll try to describe it though.

On the return line to the tank, put in a t just above the top lip of the sump, then run PVC over to the sump, elbowing down into the bubble trap in the sump. Put a ball valve on this line. When you turn on the pump have the ball valve open so all of the water goes through the pump, part way up the return, cuts through the T and then goes back into the sump. So no water flow goes into the tank. Then slowly close the ball valve until the water is going at a good rate through the overflow but not overflowing the tank.

Hope that makes sense. If not I will take a photo when I get home tonight and post it for ya. I do this on my tank with a 700gph pump and works great.

socalreefer73
08/18/2006, 10:49 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7964922#post7964922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rooroo
Wish I had a photo of the suggestion I have for throttling down the pump without putting back pressure on it.

I'll try to describe it though.

On the return line to the tank, put in a t just above the top lip of the sump, then run PVC over to the sump, elbowing down into the bubble trap in the sump. Put a ball valve on this line. When you turn on the pump have the ball valve open so all of the water goes through the pump, part way up the return, cuts through the T and then goes back into the sump. So no water flow goes into the tank. Then slowly close the ball valve until the water is going at a good rate through the overflow but not overflowing the tank.

Hope that makes sense. If not I will take a photo when I get home tonight and post it for ya. I do this on my tank with a 700gph pump and works great.

My thoughts exactly, but you may want to consider a few things...

Sumps/Fuge's typically don't need much flow. It's the tank that needs the flow. Enter the closed loop.

The idea on throttling down the return is a good one. Although, you may want to consider how much flow you have inside the tank.

The elbows you took off your return are for noise reduction. It's called a 'durso' standpipe. I'm almost 100% positive on that. You may want to look that up.

Placing the skimmer after the fuge is not the best place for it. You will be skimming out isopods that thrive in the fuge (without predation) and are very good to have in a tank.

I'm getting the sense that you just went down to the pet store and pointed at something and said, "I want that." Am I wrong? I'm not trying to be harsh, I'm just curious...

-M

socalreefer73
08/18/2006, 10:50 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7964994#post7964994 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by socalreefer73
My thoughts exactly, but you may want to consider a few things...

Sumps/Fuge's typically don't need much flow. It's the tank that needs the flow. Enter the 'closed loop'.

The idea on throttling down the return is a good one. Although, you may want to consider how much flow you have inside the tank.

The elbows you took off your return are for noise reduction. It's called a 'durso' standpipe. I'm almost 100% positive on that. You may want to look that up.

Placing the skimmer after the fuge is not the best place for it. You will be skimming out isopods that thrive in the fuge (without predation) and are very good to have in a tank.

I'm getting the sense that you just went down to the pet store and pointed at something and said, "I want that." Am I wrong? I'm not trying to be harsh, I'm just curious...

-M

zachstone13
08/19/2006, 09:48 AM
I did put the whole thing together quickly. I could never wait 12 months to slowly gather an build the materials like some have done on this site. Its just not in my nature. How do i find out how many gallons per hour my tank can drain? I have to go check on the pump, if it is pressure rated, and how much it can pump. Melev says something like 3 to 5 times total tank volume an hour right? The tank is a 65 i think made by all glass, 36X24X18 with the overflow offset a bit to the left. Everyone talks about throttling down the return. Would it just make more sense to return it to my lfs. they would take it and give me a smaller one for sure. Ill post pics tomm of my deal and people can get a better idea of my situation. Thanks for all the input. Also, does anyone have a good example of aquascaping on a smaller tank. Ive seen great pics of huge tanks ie 180 plus, but not ever a smaller tank like my size. Thanks again!

zachstone13
08/19/2006, 11:17 AM
The pump is a dp 1200, it does 1000 gph with 6 feet of head. My lfs said i could go trade it out for a dp 900, that may solve my problems???

zachstone13
08/19/2006, 11:21 AM
I do have a durso standpipe. I did not take that off. I took off an elbow underneath the tank. From the bulkhead underneath, 1 inch pvc goes like 8 inches to the sump, where i had an elbow and another piece of pvc i drilled holes in to drop the water evenly over the egg crate. The pump pushed all the water out of the sump when i did this. I had to take off the elbow and let the water shoot like a garden hose into the filter media. I also get a crazy amount of micro bubbles in the tank. I am thinking that my pump is too large and the best bet is to just get a smaller one?

dropin
08/19/2006, 11:28 AM
While all the replys about throtting down the pump are good, the basic question you should be asking yourself is this, can my drain handle the flow? sounds like you have a built in overflow and these kind of overflows can't handle the amount of flow your pump is giving it. Most of these overflows can only handle 500-600 gph.