Lighting causing Green Hair Algae?

[lakee911]

Hello,
I've been battling green hair algae now for a couple of months. It seems to have started when I changed to new bulbs. After getting a lot of brown algae (diatoms?) on the glass, I changed my bulbs (one bulb one week, one the next). I'm currently and have always run two 40W Coralife 50/50 bulbs over the tank. They were on for 14.5 hours/day and I've cut that down to 13hours/day (9A to 10P). I run a Felt Electric Enhance 6400K 18W Compact Flourescent in a Regent/Cooper Lighting FNF26PC Bronze Fixture for my fuge where I have some mangroves and chaeto and culurpa macro algae and a DSB. I had an el cheapo lamp down there up until about 2 weeks ago and this new light

I'd been plagued with high nitrates for a long time (80-120ppm), then down to 40ppm for maybe the past 6months, but seems to be getting down to around 20ppm lately. Phosphates virtually undetectable. Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0. Temp 79-80.

I use RO/DI water (TDS:0) for topoff and for water changes. I change 20-30gal monthly.

I've got an AquaC EV-120 skimmer. It doesn't seem to pull much these days since adding the macro and mangroves. I don't do much mechanical filteration other than filter sponge on the overflow--clean at least weekly.

120Gal (actual capacity) FOWLR w/ crush coral and RDSB (in fuge/sump). 100+lb live rock. Moorish Idol, Coral Beauty, Two Chromis, Watchman Goby, Two cleaner shrimp, many astraea snails and hermit crabs, couple of rather largish feather dusters.

Any ideas? I've scrubbed off the live rock with a soft bristle brush and collected as much as I could, but it just keeps on coming back.

I don't think feeding is a result (Frozen Mysis Shrimp & Angel/Butterfly food, Flake Formula 1, 2, Spirulina and Brine shrimp).

Fish have lost a little weight as of lately since I've been feeding once daily instead of twice. I think if anything I'm underfeeding. No change in GHA.

What to do?

Thanks,
Jason

[Marc]

My first question is what salt are you using? As for your nitrates being that high, water changes will go along way with your refugium. I am currently going through the same thing. I have changed out my RO DI cartriges and replaced my bulbs and it is still the same situation, diatom algae got worse and turned green. I am going to start using tropic marin sea salt because it is a much better salt that is guaranteed silicate and phophate free. What type of salt do you use?

[lakee911]

I'm using IO ... have always used that. Salinity at 1.023. I do have some hard green algae on the fuge near the waterline of the fuge too.

[Marc]

I have used Instant Ocean which works wonderful for Fish Only tanks but it does contain a small amount of silicate in it that will cause your blooms. So does Kent sea salt. They are made by the same company. You may have to install a fluidized canister filter on the tank itself, not the sump to use some rowaphos or any other phophate removers that target silicate. Get a silicate test kit and test your new batch of saltwater to see how high the measurement is. Also try to cut down on your lights and it will slow the growth down. But still keep up on the water changes to get rid of the nitrate or to at least control it.

Marc

[The Grim Reefer]

Maybe you need more cleanup crew?

[outy]

you need to get your nitrates to 0 very simple on this one

the reason your phos is virtually undetectable is because the HA and the chaeto is eating it all up.

with the chaeto and some water changes you should be able to get a handle on it. it sounds like it was just waiting to happen and the lights lit the trigger.

[KEstep]

Go buy 10 or 20 Mexican Turbo Grazers. I have several tanks with higher nitrates and I NEVER have hair algae. Scrub off as much of the algae that you can with the brush and get it short and close to the rock (snails dont get on it when it is long it seems). Then add the Mexican Turbos. I have cleared up many tanks with these snails. Astrea Snails just dont seem to touch it really.

[lakee911]

I'll see what I can do about getting some Mexican Turbo Snails. If the GHA were gone, they won't starve would they?

Thanks,
Jason

[lakee911]

I got me 4 Turbos today. :) I've also reduced my lighting to 10 hours. Upon taking my water to LFS today, they said my Nitrates are 10ppm! My phosphates are negligible. I guess feeding less is better--but fish seem hungry :(

I put down the turbos near the GHA and one vacuumed most of his patch right up. The rest munched and now appear to be asleep. Hopfully in a day or two they'll make a dent in it.

Thanks,
Jason

[BLockamon]

I agree with KEstep, from my experience high nitrate isn't the main cause of hair algae. You're probably looking at high silica and phosphate. I'd second the recommendation for using a phosphate absorbing media like Phosban or Rowaphos.

[lakee911]

I didn't think GHA was from silica. I did figure out that the fuge has "green dot algae" near the waterline.

Jason

[KEstep]

I keep 20 mexican turbo snails in my 75 plus a bunch of other varieties, but it is the mexicans that really like hair algae. If you notice them getting sluggish, or falling over a lot, that means they are not getting enough food. Give them some nori or move them to another tank with algae. Make sure your skimmer is working because the turbos crap a LOT. Wouldnt hurt to run some phosphate sponges and some carbon now also.

[lakee911]

I've got an EV-120 skimmer. I've been in the tank a lot so it being as sensitive as it is, its not skimming. Was taken apart for cleaning the other week and has been working intermittently since then. *sigh*

I'll see what they can do for a few days and keep an eye on my water parameters. I'm hesitant to run any kind of phosphate/silicate/nitrate sponges at this point because I'm essentially throwing a lot of money at a temporary solution. If I have to (we'll see), I'll get a phosban reactor, but I'd rather not at this point.

[lakee911]

Update: I've done a lot of vacuuming and scrubbing and the 11 turbo snails have been doing their job once I get it trimmed down enough. They don't like it long. I run the siphon through a filter sock in the sump and it does a good job of collecting as I scrub.

I've noticed a lot of astrea snails that seem to have committed suicide--a lot of empty shells. They suck. I like the turbos, and I'm probably going to diversify my clean up crew too.

I mistakenly harvested my macro thinking it would promote some new growth, but I think I effectively reduced its nitrate/phosphate abilities by reducing the amount in the fuge.

In response to that, I picked up a salifert phosphate kit and the phosphates are almost up to 0.5ppm. Found none in any of my supplies (water, salt, etc). Must be from food. I'm hesitant to reduce feeding even more because my Idol is losing a little weight. Instead, I ordered a Kent Phosban reactor and 250ml of rowaphos.

How much flow should I have through this sucker? Any tips, tricks, caveats, etc.

Thanks!
Jason

[TracyZeuner]

Are the mexican turbo's the really big snails.
My LFS has these large snails and they call them jumbo mexican turbo snails

[Sk8r]

Astraeas can't right themselves if they get onto sand.

Don't believe your phosphate test results: the stuff goes invisible when 'bound.' Try running some Phosban and see if that doesn't help a bit. I got blindsided by it, and Phosban has greatly diminished the algae problem in my tank.

[lakee911]

I have some big turns and some small turbos.

I'm thinking the phosban will really help, but I'm concerned about limiting the phosphorous for nitrate export through macro algae. If I remove all the phosphorus via the media, are my nitrates going to sky rocket??