How to plumb the bulkheads

[Trigeek]

I'm hoping to have water in my new 90g by this weekend. I have everything I need, including the bulkheads in place in the built -in overflow. However, I'm not sure how to plumb these properly. Do I just cement a piece of pvc into the drain line bulkhead? Do I use a coupling? Do I use a fastener onto the threads of the bulkhead like I did for the trap under my sink???

Any pointers are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Pete

[SDguy]

Are your bulkheads threaded on the inside? If so, then you can just screw in a male NPT X hose barb insert. Then use vinyl tubing to your sump. Use use a PVC male NPT x socket and glue it to some spaflex if you dont want to use vinyl tubing. If your bulkhead is not threaded on that side going to the sump, then yes, just glue in the appropriately sized PVC, and attach either of the above designs to it.

hope that was somewhat clear.

[Trigeek]

The bulkhead is threaded, but not on in the inside, only on the outside for the lock to tighten it to the tank. So, I'll stuff some pvc into the bulkhead, glue it and then run some spa flex to the sump. I could just hard plumb it couldn't I by using one piece of PVC from the bulkhead straight into the sump?? I guess this would make it difficult if I ever wanted to remove the sump, where as the spa flex could be bent out of the way easily.

Anyone else with anything to add??

[ambaratur]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8097471#post8097471 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Trigeek
The bulkhead is threaded, but not on in the inside, only on the outside for the lock to tighten it to the tank. So, I'll stuff some pvc into the bulkhead, glue it and then run some spa flex to the sump. I could just hard plumb it couldn't I by using one piece of PVC from the bulkhead straight into the sump?? I guess this would make it difficult if I ever wanted to remove the sump, where as the spa flex could be bent out of the way easily.

Anyone else with anything to add??

You should incorporate a union after your bulkead... that way no matter how you plumb it you can remove the plumbing to change the sump or whatever you want.

[Hammercoral]

or just glue the spa flex into the bulkheads, if you tear it down just leave enough spaflex so you can add the unions later if you are short on $$ now.

[xtrstangx]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8099880#post8099880 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hammercoral
or just glue the spa flex into the bulkheads, if you tear it down just leave enough spaflex so you can add the unions later if you are short on $$ now.

Thats what I would do... if you ever need a union, just cut the PVC in half and reattach a union when you are done doing whatever... Putting a union in to begin with is just 3 more places for leaks.

[Trigeek]

I glued a piece of pvc into the bulkhead and clamped the flexible tubing over the PVC.

Any thoughts on hard plumbing vs flexible tubing for the return? I'm leaning toward hard plumbing (PVC) into the bulkhead.

[flyyyguy]

IMO hard plumbing is only to be used when a PERFECTLY straight run is required and to connect fittings to fittings.

[TekCat]

not hijacking.... what kind of glue should be used between PVC and spaflex?

[flyyyguy]

The same kind of glue. I do however recommend using clear primer if you can find it. It not only doesnt leave ugly purple streaks down your plumbing it is hotter and melts the plastic more. Most people will have issues with air and/or water leaks the first couple of times they use flexible pvc especially on returns or CLS. Due to the nature of the stuff, it wants to sit crooked in the fittings/joints. If it does you have a very small surface area that is actually making the seal so it leaks.

LOTS of glue and primer(have a rag handly to wipe off excess immediately), and make sure you get at least one full twist as it sets and then look at the joint from two angles making sure it is square to the fitting....if you do this quickly you can correct it before it sets. Flex pvc takes soem getting used to especially on more complex plumbing stuff but when you get it down you can not only make better performing plumbing by eliminating some elbows and 45's, but you can actually make some pretty neat looking stuff, as well as you are much less prone to breaking stuff as it gives when you bump it, instead of the bulkhead or wahtever taking the force of any blow.

One nice sweeping curve with flex down to your sump from the bulkhead can many times be all that is needed to quiet down an overflow......

[MinibowMatt]

If you hardplumb str8 down to the sump, the overflow may get very loud because of the vacuum created by the falling water. I would use spa-flex or put a 90* bend in the hard plumbing to slow the water down.

I also feel you can never have enough Unions in your plumbing design. I have one at each bulkhead in my tank so I can remove the plumbing to change designs if need be.. I also have them at my CL pump in case I need to change it out ever.

[SCR]

Unions = less work later.

[SDguy]

I'd suggest True Unions around all pumps, not just unions.

[Trigeek]

I apologize if I sound ignorant, but what are True Unions?

[flyyyguy]

a true union is a ball valve with a union on each side. You can actually save yourself some money in manmy situations as only a half union is required to make a part have the ability to be taken apart. : )

half union is a valve with a union on ONE side

[SDguy]

To that point you can often get away with just a union. Srcew in a plug into the outlet/inlet you are woking on...it's just like closing a valve.

I like true unions for that EVENTUALITY when you will have to actually clean the valve itself of deposits. It's not worth the hassle, IMO, to save $10-$15.

[Trigeek]

But wouldn't I be gluing the pvc or spa flex into the ball valve? Wouldn't it be a permanent fixture/joint? Are you guys referring to a ball valve with a barbed end for flexible hosing or the hard pvc valves?

[flyyyguy]

Hard pvc valve.....barbed fittings suck : ) .........trick to this is try to glue with gravity going against the valve so as little or no glue gets in there and most importantly make sure to have the valve OPEN when gluing.....VERY important in case you get glue in there........you can close it after spilling glue in there but you cant open it ; )

Its permanent but thats the whole point of the true union....its removable