T5HO Endcaps

[BuffaloM]

Those of you that built your own t5ho setup, did the endcaps come with starting aids? I want to use fulham ballasts which require them, and I've read that its a component of the end cap that may or may not be included.
I'm pretty sure all the endcaps for T5 that are waterproof are made by icecap.
Also are the stand off's necessary? Ie does the icecap reflector get enough clearance without them and/or are they required for other reasons? Seems like $5-6 for a pair is a rip off.

Thanks

[ChiaJunkie]

I'm pretty sure you're going to want those standoffs, since there's no easy way to mount just the endcaps. I'm not really sure what a 'starting aid' is, so I'm going to leave that to the pros here.

However, it's my understanding that the fullham workhorse ballasts aren't designed to be used with T5's. You could consider a T5-specific ballast from ballastwise or other online sources.


Good luck

[ryan115]

according to the fulham site the workhorses will push the T5's. True they arent specifially designed to run the T5s, I think they are more of a utility ballast that will push several different bulb types. So would there be a problem running the t5s on them?

[BuffaloM]

Prior to this week, i've never heard of ballastwise, are they of sufficient quality?

While I've never run fulham with T5's before, they run my PC lights perfectly and the price is right. So what are the problems people have had with T5HOs and fulhams? Need to weight the decision.

Also anyone know about the starting aid?

Thanks

[horkn]

contrary to what chiajunkie states, workhorse ballasts run t5ho jsut fine. i have had my 3x39w t5ho retro running off of one w5 ballast for nearly 2 years, with the original bulbs as well. i have not had one iossue.

also, they do not require any special starting aid.

the only 2 things that people have questions about running t5ho on w ballasts is the no end of life protection for the bulbs, which i have been told by a very repuatable t5ho lighting manufacturer that even if a bulb dies, nothing bad happens for several days at least. but replacing a bulb would be a smart thing to do if one were to burn out. the other issue is the instant start has been said to blacken the ends of the bulbs. well, in like 19 months on my retro with the original bulbs, the ends are barely even darker than the rest of the bulb. honestly, a tek light (using spec t5ho ballasts) that a friend has had more darkening on the ends in less months use than my setup.

so, really, there is nothing wrong with workhorses for use on t5ho bulbs.

[ChemE]

You will have some difficulty mounting the endcaps if you elect to skip the standoffs. I almost skipped the standoffs but in the end decided to go with them. I'm very comfortable with DIY and I'm glad I got the standoffs. If you had PVC sheet of the right thickness and were good with a Dremel you could make your own but you would have to be very accurate to get a good tight fit. Get it wrong and you may dump the bulb and endcap into the display. You get the idea from there...

[horkn]

yeah, you def want the standoffs.

its worth it for the few dollars they cost

[BuffaloM]

Thanks for the advice. I'll pony up for the stand offs, probably would take me longer and cost more to diy them..

I plan to (eventually) put 4 24w T5HO bulbs above my 20L, since the other wattages are too long.

I've done some ballast research tonight, looks like the ballastwise DXE239HO5 and fulham workhorse 3 are my two candidates. Since I want to use two ballasts to be able to have two sets of two lights, more on that at the bottom..

I actually found a place that sells the workhorse 3's for $15 which is the same as the ballastwise and since neither offer programmed start or end of life protection I think I might go with the workhorses as I used one before and I can reuse it for like 50 other applications if I scrap them in the future.

Any pros for ballastwise over fulham, or conversely, if the sale ends and the price goes back up to $20 before I order, any reason not to get the ballastwise?

I appreciate everyones input.

One last thing, I'm planning on starting with 2 24w bulbs then once the tank is stocked adding in two more later to spread the cost (nice thing about diy projects) can anyone see a flaw in that logic? Thanks.

Edited for poor spelling and dumbness

[ChemE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8175105#post8175105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BuffaloM
...One last thing, I'm planning on starting with 2 24w bulbs then once the tank is stocked adding in two more later to spread the cost (nice thing about diy projects) can anyone see a flaw in that logic?

No flaw at all and actually, if your first two bulbs are something like a UVL Super Actinic and an ATI Blue Plus and you're patient you can speed up your coralline growth. Coralline prefers low light, so if you can put up with the look for a month or two, you can get better initial growth of coralline on your LR. Once the initial flush of coralline slows down, you can add two more bulbs (ATI Aquablue and ATI Sun Pro if it was me).

[prugs]

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104929.html

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104930.html

Here is where I'm getting my end caps, not to mention all my other T5 components.

[epicfish]

Stand offs wouldn't be required for regular (non-waterproof) end caps, right? You can just screw them into the wood or whatever you're mounting them on?

[ChemE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8187380#post8187380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by epicfish
Stand offs wouldn't be required for regular (non-waterproof) end caps, right? You can just screw them into the wood or whatever you're mounting them on?

That is correct.

[twkenny]

Hey Buffalo....let me give you my experience with Workhorse ballasts. They are terrible and I would NEVER have them in my house. I had one that ran so hot you cold not touch it. It was replaced and the second one was just as bad...only that one made nice lines on my TV screen. EOL protection....it was mentioned above that nothing bad would happen for several days at least trying to fire a dead bulb. Point is, why take the risk?
Go with quality, safe components.
Just my 2 cents.

[epicfish]

Hm, I've had a Workhorse ballast and it hasn't given me problems at all.

Actually, I put in a 28W NO Coralife bulb and it's actually overdriving it at about 50watts. The bulbs run a little hotter than usual, but the ballast is cool as a cucumber.

[horkn]

my w ballast runs very cool. you can have your hand on it for as long as you want. its def not HOT

twkenny, you must have just had bad luck and either got a bad one, or it was worn out.

dunno..

if aquactinics tested the w ballasts, and found no issues even witha dead bulb, i wouldnt worry about it.


heck, go onto icecaps forum, you will see threads about the IC ballasts almost starting a fire.

both are isolated incidents, and anyone that runs a tank has 1200 electrical appliances running to keep the tank how they want it.

[twkenny]

I agree and hope it was isolated. Maybe it's the 54 watt bulbs...who knows. Mine was a WH7 I believe....