Mota's 125 Tank build thread(custom)

[Michael Mota]

Welcome to:
Mota's 125 tank build thread (custom)
OK I have decided to actually upgrade to what will be the custom 125 long reef tank. The original thread where I asked for help as to whether I should upgrade or not: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=933800
One reason is I love the length of the tank which makes it look and feel so much larger than the 90 reef I have now. Here is a link to the 90 reef: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=883391&perpage=25&pagenumber=1 The second reason is I have many ideas that I would like to implement in this new custom built (By Me) system that I am unable to implement on the 90 reef. The third and final reason is the fish, especially the Tangs will have much more room to swim around with the 6 foot length.
The Plan:
This tank will have a 2" sand bed and most of the rock will be man made along with dry rock. I am going to make (DIY) the calcium and kalkwasser reactor, the chiller, frag tank, sump, refugium, cabinet and hood. Tank will be drilled for a closed loop using a reef dart pump and ocean motions with some of the revolutions nozzles. Return will be returned back through a Sea Swirl for more water movement. Also two Tunze power head maybe added at a later date for more water movement. Still undecided on the lighting system and the power center. Most of the equipment on the 90 reef will be used on this setup.
I would like for people to give constructive criticism when they feel that it maybe helpful to me or others who may be in the process of doing there own tank build. I would like this thread to become and stay as a good reference/source for others who may be able to learn and get some ideas for themselves. Together we can all learn. :) But most importantly when the need arrives and believe me it will, you guys and gals can all help me to get this completed cause there will be days that I will need that extra push, lol:D
Welcome and enjoy the thread
Michael Mota

[Michael Mota]

I had another thread asking what people thought of my idea as far as circulation in the 125: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=935331
I have come up with this for the drilling of the close loop. Yesterday I ordered the diamond drill bit and my supplies to make the calcium and the kalkwasser reactor.
Keep in mind that this image and any other image is not to scale and is only being used/made to help others understand what it is I am trying to do or accomplish.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/circpic.jpg

[Michael Mota]

OK here is a pic of what I think the water motion will be like once it is drilled and up and running. The Tunze power heads are as of right now an option that I may add later to the tank if more water motion is needed. Sea Swirl will be my return from the sump. The closed loop will be operating with an ocean motions super squirt or 4-way (not sure which one as of yet) on it and the two returns behind the rocks will have the ocean motions revolutions for more random flow behind the rock work.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/watermotion.jpg[/IMG]

[kelly630]

Wow, the pix of your 90g were great. I'm actually in the midst of setting up my 180 right now. I've never had a reef tank before, so I may need some advice!

[kelly630]

I was going to try to get away without powerheads, but from the looks of your diagram, I guess I'll need them as well. Is that something I can add in later, or do I need to put them in as the tank is being plumbed (obviously not by me!)?

[Michael Mota]

Hi Kelly630,
That's what is so great about these forums. Start a thread on your tank build and you just may get more advice and help than you know what to do with it :confused: lol
Thanks for the compliment on the 90 reef which by the way is still up and running with good growth and colors. Of course If you need help ask away and I will give you all the help I can.
One thing I like about power heads is that they can always be added later on to help increase flow. Some people do not like the way they can be an eye sore in the tank, but with some ingenious thinking you can hide them or at least make them less conspicuous.

Update: Went out today and got some silicone and a few other things to repair/fix the over flow on the 125. Pictures will be posted as soon as I get started on that so please bare with me.

[Michael Mota]

I think I forgot to mention that this 125 gallon tank was bought used for a very good deal. So you can imagine it needs a good cleaning and the glass will have to be polished to remove a few scratches. I really don't mind the work cause I actually enjoy it. Just call me crazy, lol
Today I removed the over flow and actually made it 3" smaller than what it was cause I felt it was just to big for a corner overflow. I got it all cleaned up and it is looking really nice now. There is a hole in the bottom right side of the over flow that was used in the past as a return but I will be covering that hole with some acrylic because I will not need it. In case you are wondering why save this piece instead of replacing, because it is cost effective to save it than to replace the whole thing with a new one. Please call me thrifty! :lol: The over flow will have two 1" returns going to the sump that way, there will be a back up in case one gets clogged for some reason. Here is a picture of the over flow after it was cut and cleaned up:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/overflow.jpg

[kelly630]

Hey "thrifty" at least you're "handy," which I am definitely not!!! Are you keeping the tank with one overflow, or will you add a second one to the opposite corner?

[Michael Mota]

I am going to keep it with just one over flow in the left rear corner. This thing is really big compared to most stock over flows that come with a tank and thats after I trimmed it down some. It should be able to handle about 600 gallons per hour with no problems at all.

Oh Kelly630 I also forgot to mention that the best thing I like about power heads is that they use allot less electricity than a external pump but then again you have to deal with them being in the tank. JMHO

[kelly630]

Michael, question for you...I'm supposed to be getting a "Blueline 40x" pump for mine. Do you think if I switch to two powerheads (it was recommended that I get one, an SEIO 2600), then I could get away with a smaller pump?

Btw..my tank is coming with the two overflows, but they are only the standard ones, unlike yours...

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8235268#post8235268 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kelly630
Michael, question for you...I'm supposed to be getting a "Blueline 40x" pump for mine. Do you think if I switch to two powerheads (it was recommended that I get one, an SEIO 2600), then I could get away with a smaller pump?

Btw..my tank is coming with the two overflows, but they are only the standard ones, unlike yours...
PM sent.

[Michael Mota]

I have been thinking that this cabinet/stand for the tank will be more of a wall unit type. I have designed the specs on the bottom section of the stand. This section will be larger than the tank to help spread the weight to more rafters in the floor. Also there will be one cabinet on each side of the tank for equipment, this will sit on top of the bottom section also.
Still not sure as to what type of wood but I think it maybe pine with some type of stain. Below is a pic of the bottom section for the cabinets/stand which is really a rough draft for now. It gives you an idea of what I am about to do.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/bottomsection.jpg

[Michael Mota]

Well It has happened, got my first order in to day for some parts to make the calcium reactor and they messed up the order. Sent me most of the right stuff except for a few items being totally wrong. Will have to wait till Monday to call the company and let them know. Who knew ordering and receiving items could be so stressful :)

[Michael Mota]

Alright!! The good news is today I was able to drill the holes in the rear glass panel of the tank for the closed loop. Here are a few pics of what was done and the stuff/equipment I used to accomplish this. I decided to use just one hole for the pump return instead of two like I had originally planned.
Here is the equipment: vegetable oil as a cutting oil ( do not know why I use it, its just what I always have used to drill holes), 1/2" drill, 45mm (1 3/4") diamond drill bit, tape measure, marker, weather stripping to hold oil in the drilling area and paper towels for clean up:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA040001.jpg

The next pic you can see the drill cutting a hole into the glass panel ( the drill was actually spinning at the time):

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA040002.jpg

Here is the first hole completed, nice if I say so myself:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA040003.jpg

And lastly the back of the tank with all the holes drilled into the tank:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA040004.jpg

[Michael Mota]

And now the bad news!
When I had finished the drilling of the tank holes I was cleaning up the tank and I noticed one of the corners of the tank is not well attached. I mean I can move the side piece of glass quite easily, it seems the seal is compromised. Well I have decided to take the tank apart completely and re-silicone all edges. I have decided this cause I would rather not loose sleep over whether the corner of the tank will let go some day. I also considered that the amount of work involved to do this will be worth it because of the piece of mind I will get and the tank cost was very small.
This will also make the glass so much easier to polish.

[Michael Mota]

Tank has been torn apart and it is now in pieces, yippee! I think tomorrow I will start to clean all the glass sections getting them ready to be put back together. Plus I will also polish the front glass panel to remove the few minor scratches on it. I think it was a good move in tearing down the tank cause the corner I was worried about was poorly siliconed together and had it not leaked at first, I believe it would have in due time.

[AVALover5498]

Cool!:)

[Michael Mota]

Just finished polishing the front pane of glass. I used a buffer with a pad and some Superox 100T Cerium Oxide powder to polish the glass. Man it took quite some time and a lot of elbow grease but it got rid of all the small/light scratches. There is a few heavy scratches that are left but I will turn the glass around so these are on the outside. I do not think they will detract from the tank much or at all but if they are an issue in the future i can work them out since they will be on the outside. Sorry no picks were taken of the glass being polished.
Most of the glass panels are cleaned and free of silicone, just have the bottom and back section to clean/remove silicone and then it will be ready to put together. What I did is I used a razor blade to cut through the old silicone and I used a jack with some wood to also help pry the glass panels apart as I cut the silicone. I marked each one so I know how to put them back together in the same place. Razor blades were used to remove as much silicone as possible and then a 3" wire wheel attached to my drill was used to make quick work of removing the rest of the silicone. This step left a silicone residue on the glass which was then removed by using acetone on paper towel. The acetone also cleans and prepares the glass for the silicone to stick to it. Once every thing is done I will use masking tape on all the seams to help make a nice straight seal on all the corners of the tank and hopefully it will look like professional quality, I hope.
I will take some pics of the tank as it is being put back together and siliconed. Should be done in the next few days.

[Michael Mota]

Tank is still waiting to be put back together, just not enough time in the day. Any how for now I was looking around for ideas on a power center to control all the pumps and electrical stuff. I see people are using the DJ switch panels and connecting them to individual plug outlets. My question is why not just hook the pumps right into the switch panels? Is there a reason that people spend so much money on outlets etc. I think I am going to hook the pumps into the Dj Panels directly and then I will make two or three outlets for misc. timers if needed. Any ideas or thoughts would be helpful and if someone has a link to were I can purchase these, that would also help.
Thanks,
Michael

[Michael Mota]

OK I guess no one has any ideas/recommendations for a power center. Oh well, moving on you can see I have begun to put the tank back together. Man this is not an easy task to do by yourself. If anyone is going to try this please try to get some help especially on a large tank. You are all wondering why then did I do it myself, well my hired hand could not be here and after three days of waiting I decide to try it alone. Came out alright but man those pieces of glass are sure heavy. Got it all together today but was only able to get two pics cause I wanted to get it together before the silicone began to dry. I will get more pics of it in about seven days due to waiting for the silicone to cure. Once cured I will clean it up and remove all the tape and straps holding it all together. Enjoy the pics and now its time to order the bulk heads and a few other things so I can water test the tank.
Here are a few pics of the tank coming together:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tankrebuild1.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tankrebuild2.jpg

[Aqua Keepers]

I have to do the same to my 125. I noticed that the top left corner seal is bad. I can pretty much pull it apart like you. This is an old tank that I got cheap and has some minor scratches like yours. So, I have a couple questions.
I trashed the top trim as I removed it (know where to get new?).
How do I remove the bottom trim without trashing it?
Where do you get Superox 100T Cerium Oxide powder?

[cdentii1]

man you guys are giving me the urge big time to get my 125 up and running. I have lot of projects that I want to get done in order first.... I cant hardly wait.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8332728#post8332728 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I have to do the same to my 125. I noticed that the top left corner seal is bad. I can pretty much pull it apart like you. This is an old tank that I got cheap and has some minor scratches like yours. So, I have a couple questions.
I trashed the top trim as I removed it (know where to get new?).
How do I remove the bottom trim without trashing it?
Where do you get Superox 100T Cerium Oxide powder?

OK as far as the trim goes I would say contact an aquarium manufacture and see if they would be willing to sell the trim. If you can get the top trim then maybe it would be worth it to get the bottom trim piece also that way you could just rip it off and not worry about breaking it. Other than that try to find a spot on the trim where it is poorly attached to the tank and try to pull it off slowly working it with a razor blade to help cut as much of the silicone as you can.
Do a google.com search for the cerium powder but be forewarned this stuff only removes very fine scratches and will polish the glass to like new but it will take a lot of elbow grease, believe me. I also found that having a buffer which is made for this type of work will make the task much easier to accomplish rather than using a drill with a small buff pad on it. Also when you do the google.com search you will get a lot of info on how to do it. Just search for glass polishing/scratch removal on glass or aquariums.
Good luck,
Mike

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8334488#post8334488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
man you guys are giving me the urge big time to get my 125 up and running. I have lot of projects that I want to get done in order first.... I cant hardly wait.
I hear you loud and clear!! Due to work and family commitments this tank build will be slow and steady but since I have my 90 running and doing well I am in no hurry to accomplish this reef. I actually enjoy the part about building the tank and putting it all together. I actually built a lot of my equipment for the 90 reef and for this tank I am going to build almost all of the equipment. So keep watching the thread, enjoy and maybe when your ready to build yours you can use some of these ideas for your own system.
Take care

[Aqua Keepers]

Well I guess since only my front panal will be viewable, polishing would'nt be worth it. It only has a couple very small scratches. They probably wont be visable with water in the tank.
I decided not to replace the top trim as I want to add a eurobrace and plan to have my hood overlap the top portion of the tank. I cant find a lose spot on the trim at all and I cant even get to any of the silicone. Looks like I need to contact a manufacture. I think the tank is a perfecto but can't find any contact info. You would'nt happen to have it? By the wat what thickness is that glass? Mine is 1/2"

[douggiestyle]

perfecto is owned by marineland.and as a matter of fact i have there # in a file of use and care manuals right here next to my puter.
800-322-1266

my lfs ordered one for me. try your lfs.

[Aqua Keepers]

Thanks Doug. I actually just found perfectos web site through marinlands. Gonna drop them an email.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8336371#post8336371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Well I guess since only my front panal will be viewable, polishing would'nt be worth it. It only has a couple very small scratches. They probably wont be visable with water in the tank.
I decided not to replace the top trim as I want to add a eurobrace and plan to have my hood overlap the top portion of the tank. I cant find a lose spot on the trim at all and I cant even get to any of the silicone. Looks like I need to contact a manufacture. I think the tank is a perfecto but can't find any contact info. You would'nt happen to have it? By the wat what thickness is that glass? Mine is 1/2"
Polishing is a real pain in the buttocks thats why I only did the front glass pane. I too have a few scratches but they are on the outside and I really think they will not distract from viewing the tank. I think home depot may sell a chemical that can help to loosen/remove the silicone. I have no experience with using chemicals to soften/loosen silicone so maybe someone else can chime in on this. As far as the trim try the all glass aquarium site and contact them to see if they sell it or maybe that company called glasses cages. I am not sure who sells the trim but thats were I would start again maybe some one who has purchased trim before can pm you with more info. The euro bracing will work well and eliminate the plastic braces from the original trim which will allow the light to shine through the tank with out shadows. My glass thickness is 1/2" but this is a custom built/homemade tank, the guy I bought it from actually made the tank.

[Michael Mota]

Got the tank together!! The silicone is mostly dry but I will wait seven days before doing anything to the tank. I did clean it up today. I also decided that I need to drill one more hole for another 1" bulkhead so that way I will have two 1" bulkheads going into a 1 1/2" pipe to feed the Dart closed loop pump. After doing that I just have to cover the hole in the lower portion of the overflow. Got the acrylic but still waiting on the adhesive to arrive (weld on 3).

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Tankbacktogether.jpg

[Aqua Keepers]

Looking good my friend. I also plan on useing the dart for my closed loop as well. However, I'm useing a 2" bulkhead to feed it. What size return pump will you use to feed the sea swirl?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8339764#post8339764 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Looking good my friend. I also plan on useing the dart for my closed loop as well. However, I'm useing a 2" bulkhead to feed it. What size return pump will you use to feed the sea swirl?
The closed loop dart pump is actually running on my90 reef, I will just be transfering it over t the 125. Same for the return pump, I will be using the mag 1800 for a return pump. Now before you guys say thats too much flow let me say I actually use this pump to run the chiller, calcium reactor, denitrator and ofcourse the return to the tank. I really like the mag 1800 because it is very quiet and in three years this pump has given me no problems ( I just jinks myself, lol):eek1: I am entertaining the idea of getting a ocean runner pump for the return because it uses less electricity but the only thing that is holding me back is I do not know anyone who uses this pump, nor do I know how reliable these are so for this reason I think I will be staying with the mag1800.
I am just waiting for the silicone to cure and then i can finish up the tank and begin on the stand. I do plan on painting the back and sides of the tank a true blue color. This tank will only be viewed from the front. Oh and thank you for the comments. On a good note I have aquired most of the parts I need to begin making the calcium and the kalk reactors. Stay tuned theres more to come.
Mike

[Michael Mota]

OK I have had some time these past few days to do a few things to the tank. As you can probably see I finished drilling the final hole and installed all of the 6 bulkheads. I also gave the back and sides a coat of royal blue rustoleum paint using a roller. I figure two more coats of paint should do very nicely. Once that is done I will check the tank to make sure it holds water even though I am confident it will. Remember this tank will only be viewed from the front thats why all three side are being painted.
I am still undecided on the type of wood to use for the cabinet/wall unit. I was thinking that oak would look nice but after seeing a piece of maple wood I fell in love with the grain of the maple. The thing is I am not sure if maple would hold up to the moisture and abuse of the salt water. Any one who is experienced with wood could give me some insight as to whether maple would be good enough for a cabinet, that would be appreciated.
Here is the tank getting it first coat of paint:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/paintedtank.jpg

[Michael Mota]

Here is what I drew up as far as what the cabinet may look like. I am still playing with this design and I am undecided about a few things. The whole idea is to make this more like a wall unit. It will house all the equipment and maybe some extra room for extras. Any feed back will be appreciated.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Cabinetdesign.jpg

[cdentii1]

I would place the electronic Ballast by the power center and the refugium where the ballast are that way you can feed the refugium directly to the tank for minimal pod loss.
Chiller is fine however most people will not place a chiller in the cabinet due to heat build up in most cases it is almost like defeating the whole purpose instead place the chiller outside of the cabinet and have a larger sump.
This is just my 2cents worth.

[cdentii1]

Even better yet you could get one of those tall skimmers such as a ASM G6, Aqua C EV400, or a ETSS 900, just to name a few Skimmer. and do away with the book shelf or relocate it to shelf between the refugium and frag tank.
Man I am getting excited and cant hardly wait to see what you will be doing.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8352353#post8352353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
I would place the electronic Ballast by the power center and the refugium where the ballast are that way you can feed the refugium directly to the tank for minimal pod loss.
Chiller is fine however most people will not place a chiller in the cabinet due to heat build up in most cases it is almost like defeating the whole purpose instead place the chiller outside of the cabinet and have a larger sump.
This is just my 2cents worth.
Yep that seems viable, placing the refugium up top like that would be better for the pods but would also require an additional pump unless I can feed it off of the return pump some how. Definitely something to think about.
The chiller will be a complete DIY setup and will have a vent to the outside during the summer months and in the winter I will remove the vent and just have the heat go back into the room to help with heating of the home in the winter. I plan on setting it up so it actually removes air from under the cabinet and vents it to the outside.
Thank you for the opinion and I will really think about the refuigium idea for I think it is a good one.
Thanks
Mike

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8352413#post8352413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
Even better yet you could get one of those tall skimmers and do away with the book shelf or relocate it to shelf between the refugium and frag tank.
Man I am getting excited and cant hardly wait to see what you will be doing.
I will be keeping my skimmer I have now which is running on the 90. I do not feel the need to spend more money than needed, lol:D Book shelf must stay cause I really want one built into the cabinet. Got some books that really need a home. Bear with me my friend, this project will take some time to complete thanks to my job that I have to work. I hate work:sad2:

[Michael Mota]

OK here is the new design, I changed a few of the equipment places due to a suggestion from a fellow reefer. Thanks for the idea, looks like it will work out really well.
Here is the new design:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Cabinetdesign-1.jpg

[cdentii1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8352510#post8352510 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
I will be keeping my skimmer I have now which is running on the 90. I do not feel the need to spend more money than needed, lol:D Book shelf must stay cause I really want one built into the cabinet. Got some books that really need a home. Bear with me my friend, this project will take some time to complete thanks to my job that I have to work. I hate work:sad2:

Yea I know the feeling I also have a 125g and it is still sitting empty in the living room as we recently moved and there are some projects the we need to get done first like wiring needs updated and actually thinking about getting a substation, fish room in basement ect (just thinking ahead for the really large tank), and the wife wants new carpet as well however the home had a addition put on and it settled so now we have to jack up the addition before carpet and don't really want to tear down a 125 for a couple of months delay and not to mention the risk of livestock loss. so until then I will be lurking about gathering new ideas and so forth.:bum: as far as the skimmer I can understand.:cool:

[cdentii1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8352593#post8352593 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
OK here is the new design, I changed a few of the equipment places due to a suggestion from a fellow reefer. Thanks for the idea, looks like it will work out really well.
Here is the new design:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Cabinetdesign-1.jpg

Me Likes:D

[cdentii1]

also make sure that the power station is 100% water proof the last thing I am sure that you would want is a leak or flood of some sort into the power station and trust me when I was 16 I didnt realize that the old drip loop was so important until I had saltwater run into the power outlet at my parents and caught the house on fire......

[Aqua Keepers]

I hope you don't mind me useing some ideas from your stand.
How many tubes of silicone did you use to rebuild the tank? BTW, I contacted Perfecto & All Glass via. email. They both said that I need to go through an LFS to get the trim.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8361477#post8361477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I hope you don't mind me useing some ideas from your stand.
How many tubes of silicone did you use to rebuild the tank? BTW, I contacted Perfecto & All Glass via. email. They both said that I need to go through an LFS to get the trim.
Nope I do not mind at all, in my opinion thats what these threads are for. Use any ideas you would like to. I am glad you where able to get some info on the trim now if I ever need to buy it I will know how to get it. I actually went out and bought 5 tubes of silicone just in case but I used almost four tube of the stuff. I did put it on heavy in the bottom section to hold the trim also, the overflow was put in along with the glass center brace and the top trim all at the same time that way all the silicone would dry at the same time and create a nice seal. Of course I used tape on the corners so when I peeled it off it left a decent looking seal not perfect but decent, I was in a hurry when doing it by myself. I highly recommend some help when doing this. Take care
Mike

[Michael Mota]

OH I almost forgot to mention the tank has been given its final coat of Rustoleum Royal Blue on its back and both sides. I went really thick on the paint. I will let it sit for a while to let the paint cure and then it will be time to test the tank to see if it will hold water. I also need to paint a room for my parents so that will put this project on hold for a few days.
Take care all,
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

My project is in slow motion as well due to some home renovations. I noticed that you never got an answer to the american dj power supply thing. I have seen them on ebay pretty cheap. I assume that you used aquarium silicone, and not the stuff GE makes, Right? Where was the cheapest you found?
Are gonna make the stand and the side towers all one piece ( or conected )? The reason I ask that is would'nt one piece make it hard to get to anything behind the tank? I was thinking of doing the two towers as seperate pieces. This way if there's an emergency behind the tank, I'll be able to take them off for easier access to back of tank. Let me see if I can mod your pic to show what I mean.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8372205#post8372205 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
My project is in slow motion as well due to some home renovations. I noticed that you never got an answer to the american dj power supply thing. I have seen them on ebay pretty cheap. I assume that you used aquarium silicone, and not the stuff GE makes, Right? Where was the cheapest you found?
Are gonna make the stand and the side towers all one piece ( or conected )? The reason I ask that is would'nt one piece make it hard to get to anything behind the tank? I was thinking of doing the two towers as seperate pieces. This way if there's an emergency behind the tank, I'll be able to take them off for easier access to back of tank. Let me see if I can mod your pic to show what I mean.

Nope I used 100% silicone labeled by Ace Hardware store. I have used it in the past and never had a problem and the stuff is cheap too.
As far as the cabinet/wall unit goes it will be built in five pieces. There will be the bottom section that will help to distribute the weight to more rafters, the tank stand, the two cabinets and the hood front. This way it will be lighter and easier to carry up the stairs. Then once in place all the piece will come together and sit on top of the bottom section and I will some screws to hold it. This will allow me to also take it apart if i ever move. I think for access to the back both cabinets will have a piece of wood that will be on hinges and can be opened up for access to the back when needed. In other words the whole thing will be away from the wall and the cabinet with a extension on the side will make it look like everything is up against the wall kinda of like a door. Hope that you can understand what I just said.
Tank is sitting in the basement all ready to get wet tested. I need to get some caps at Lowes to cap off all the bulk heads and then I will be ready to test it. Maybe a few more days before that happens cause I started to paint my parents bed room and I need to finish that first.

[Aqua Keepers]

Well, I could'nt upload the pic for some reason. So, I added it to my gallery. As you can see, I circled the portions of the stand that I feel should be seperate. Let me know what you think.

[Aqua Keepers]

I understand what you're saying and me likes! I'll definately be following your build. Sounds like you thought this out.

[Tiki G.]

Nice job on the tank. I couldn't decide on what color to paint the back, I wanted black, but the gal friend wanted blue....so it's blue. Looking forward to the cabinet project.

[Michael Mota]

Hey Pito,
Here is a pic of the stand and what I did was circle the different sections. Since this thing will be 9 feet long i think it is best to make the cabinets and stand so it can be place on the bottom/platform once in place. This way it will be much easier to move up and down stairs or through the window:D

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Cabinetdesign1.jpg

On this next pic is to show the side of the cabinet. You can see what I was talking about when I said there will be a door in the back for access

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/SideViewofcabinet.jpg

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8372473#post8372473 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tiki G.
Nice job on the tank. I couldn't decide on what color to paint the back, I wanted black, but the gal friend wanted blue....so it's blue. Looking forward to the cabinet project.
True blue is the color of the blue acrylic over flows which is what I used in the past for my tanks. On the 90 I used black for the back. But on this one I wanted to go with blue again but this time I went with royal blue for it is not as overpowering as the true blue. Thank you for the comments but I have to tell ya I am a bit nervous about testing this tank. I know it will hold water just fine but you know the nervous factor is in the back of my head, call me crazy:eek2:

[Aqua Keepers]

Just water test it in the garage. You should be fine.
What do you plan on makeing that bottom platform out of? I'm just wondering if there's a chance of the ends cracking since there's no real weight on the ends.

[Aqua Keepers]

Ohh, after calling a few LFS's in the area about special ordering my trim, I found one that can do it. $24.99 each.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8373201#post8373201 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Just water test it in the garage. You should be fine.
What do you plan on makeing that bottom platform out of? I'm just wondering if there's a chance of the ends cracking since there's no real weight on the ends.
It will be made of 2"x4" studs and enclosed with popular wood and of course some routed edges to make it look pretty,lol All the weight will be carried through the studs to the floor. The ends will also have weight on it from the cabinets and all the stuff in them.
Water test will be done in the basement due to not having a garage. But if theres a leak it will be OK since the basement is not finished and it is concrete.
Glad to hear you found the trim pieces.

[Tiki G.]

Good luck on the test. I like what your doing here. It is going to really nice.

[Michael Mota]

I got water in it today!!!!!!! :)Yep thats right the tank is full of water and holding very nicely with no leaks. I will leave it full of water for a few days just to satisfy me that it will hold. As soon as I get some batteries for my camera I will take some pics of the tank full.

[Aqua Keepers]

Good job! Bet you was nervous as heck. Now get busy building that stand. Finally got mine all torn apart. Now I need to get all the silicone off and rebuild, but I gotta get the new floor done first. Also, new trim is on it's way.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8393686#post8393686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Good job! Bet you was nervous as heck. Now get busy building that stand. Finally got mine all torn apart. Now I need to get all the silicone off and rebuild, but I gotta get the new floor done first. Also, new trim is on it's way.
To tell you the truth I was not nervous at all but I did expect to see a Niagara falls size leak. Give me a break, I am going as fast as I can, lol I just finished the room painting for my parents and today the oil furnace quit heating my house, so I spent my free time finding, getting and replacing the circulating pump. But I still had time to fill the tank and now its off to work for a 16 hour day. All will get done in due time my friend, as they say in this hobby bad things happen fast and good things take their sweet time.:D But seriously, I too am anxious to get started on the cabinetry.

[Tiki G.]

No leaks! Cool. Let's see some pics now.

[Michael Mota]

Ok Ok!!!:D
Here is the tank a few days after it was filled, no leaks.


http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tankfilled.jpg

And here I am draining the tank.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tankfill2.jpg

[Alphabet]

Looking Good..

[Aqua Keepers]

I can't wait to even get to that point.

[Michael Mota]

Thanks Alphabet! Hey Pito don't worry one thing at a time and before you know it you'll be there. Heck look at how long it took me to get here, quite a while.

Not sure if I said this already but I have decided to go with popular wood for the cabinet/stand. Picked up some wood last week and I need to get my brother-in-law's miter saw so I can start to make some cuts to get the wood to look like a stand.
On a good note my new router table came in and its ready to go. I also completed the durso stand pipe and a modified stockman as the emergency back-up in the overflow. I also have begun to work on the strainer system for the closed loop pump. I am almost done with these small pieces so once complete I will post pics.

[Aqua Keepers]

If you don't mind, take as many pics as possable when building the stand.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8406521#post8406521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
If you don't mind, take as many pics as possable when building the stand.
I will do my best!!:D

[Michael Mota]

OK tank is completely done and here is a few updates of what I did:
I fixed the overflow hole at the bottom by applying a small piece of acrylic with weld on-3. I did this before the wet test and it held up just fine with out leaking water into the overflow. See pic:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/P1010011.jpg

Today I made the Durso Drain pipe, this will be the primary drain. I did not glue the elbow so it can be remove for easier installation of the Durso drain. The Stockman modified (just the pipe) will be the emergency back up drain in case anything happens to the primary drain. I think by leaving the stockman drain like it is will make the drain loud that way I will know something is wrong when I hear louder water noise. See pic:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/P1010004.jpg

Last but not least I was able to complete the strainer for the closed loop pump. It is just two 1" tees with one inch thin wall pipe full of holes. I think it came out pretty cool. With most of the pipe open like it is I think that there should be minimum suction so the animals won't get hurt or sucked onto it. See pics:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/P1010002.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/P1010007.jpg

[Aqua Keepers]

I like that closed loop strainer. Are you gonna add the rest of the stockman? Why did you go with one durso and one stockman? When I make my external overflows for my tank I plan on adding two stockmans or or two gurgle busters in each overflow for back up. Kinda like your doing. Will the primary be taller than the secondary?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8408756#post8408756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I like that closed loop strainer. Are you gonna add the rest of the stockman? Why did you go with one durso and one stockman? When I make my external overflows for my tank I plan on adding two stockmans or or two gurgle busters in each overflow for back up. Kinda like your doing. Will the primary be taller than the secondary?
Closed loop strainer does look cool:lol: On the stockman all I am doing is the straight pipe part and thats basically because it is cheaper and takes less room in the overflow and I want it to be loud too so that way if it is being used I should be able to tell just by listening to the tank. The durso is the primary drain so it will be lower in the overflow than the stockman drain. This way if the durso gets clogged for some reason then the water level will rise up to the stockman level where it will begin to drain the water to the sump. Hope this explains or helps you understand what I am doing here. Sometimes I am not good at describing things.

[Aqua Keepers]

Michael, I understand why you're useing two. I just dont understand why two different styles. You could've used two stockmans instead of one of each and saved some room. Or was there a reason for two different styles? I like your idea of keeping the secondary pipe only. In theory you would be able to hear a difference in the tank when the primary is plugged.
I'm getting some good tips and ideas from you. Keep it up and thanks.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8413023#post8413023 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Michael, I understand why you're useing two. I just dont understand why two different styles. You could've used two stockmans instead of one of each and saved some room. Or was there a reason for two different styles? I like your idea of keeping the secondary pipe only. In theory you would be able to hear a difference in the tank when the primary is plugged.
I'm getting some good tips and ideas from you. Keep it up and thanks.
I like the durso style stand pipe, thats why I am using it. The other is cheaper to make and uses less room and for a backup I think its fine. Thats all there is to it nothing too complicated, I think.
My brother in law is brining the miter saw for me to use tomorrow so maybe I can get started on the stand soon. I am undecided on what color stain to use for the stand/cabinets. Does anyone out there have any sugestions as to what color stain would look nice?
Take care
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

I like a natural stain because thats what goes with my home.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8414823#post8414823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I like a natural stain because thats what goes with my home.
Thanks, anyone else? Man I thought I would get much more participation than this (no offense Pito), maybe I am doing everything right:rolleye1: Come on people help me decide what stain to go with. Post pics of stands with different stains if you like.:D

[Fache]

Hey Michael, wow....looks like you have a busy fall ahead of you. Best of luck to you and hope all goes well. I had one question for you as I am in the process of re-siliconing my tank as it recently crashed and I have the oppourtunity to resilicone the tank as it is in need of some repairs - no leaks but why wait until that situations presents itself. What type of Silicone did you use? i.e brand etc. Any help, suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Fache

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8415707#post8415707 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fache
Hey Michael, wow....looks like you have a busy fall ahead of you. Best of luck to you and hope all goes well. I had one question for you as I am in the process of re-siliconing my tank as it recently crashed and I have the oppourtunity to resilicone the tank as it is in need of some repairs - no leaks but why wait until that situations presents itself. What type of Silicone did you use? i.e brand etc. Any help, suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Fache
OK be prepared for a bit of elbow grease to be applied here.I actually use 100% silicone sold by Ace Hardware stores and never had a problem with it. Heck I built my frag tank with the stuff and it is still holding nicely. I would say any 100% silicone would work just make sure it does not say that it fight mildew or resists mildew, I think they have something called micro-ban that GE adds to their silicone, do not use this stuff. Remember just use 100% silicone and you should be OK. First thing is take the tank apart with out breaking any glass panes and also be careful in removing the trim if you want to save it. The next most important thing is to remove all of the old silicone and I do mean remove it all. What I did was used a razor blade to get as much off as I could and then I used a fine wire wheel attached to my die grinder ( a drill will also work) and I just wire wheeled all the silicone off. If your careful you can do this without causing any significant damage to the glass. Last I used acetone to remove the film of silicone that was left over. Acetone is a good cleaner and it will leave the glass ready to take on silicone. Once it is done get some help putting all back together. I set the bottom glass down first then as I placed the side pieces they were siliconed also. move quick cause once silicone dries it is not easy to work with nor will silicone stick to dry silicone. Do all the edges as you go along. Use masking tape or painters tape to help get a nice looking edge. Once the silicone is applied and you worked it into the corner remove the tape and you should have a nice straight silicone edge. I would say it is easy to do but that comes with practice. Take care and good luck.

[Michael Mota]

OK I decide to go with Golden Pecan 245 stain made by Min Wax. Click on the site to see the color:http://www.minwax.com/products/woodstain/woodfinish-color.cfm
So what do you Guys and Gals think? Good stain color or would you recommend one of the other colors on that page?

[Michael Mota]

I started the platform build but I have changed the design a bit. I was not happy with having just 1.5' wide cabinets so I increased the total length of the platform to 114" which is 9.5'. That should give me a few more inches to make the side cabinets wider. I also added an extra 2"x4" stud into the center for more support.
The platform framing is completely put together and needs some sanding to get it ready for painting. I will paint it white just to help protect the wood from moisture. Here is the new blue print and pics will follow soon.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/bottomsection-1.jpg

[Michael Mota]

This is a pic of all the studs pre-cut for the platform:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA260002.jpg
I also sanded the studs before I put them together to make it easier:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA260003.jpg
Just a pic of the exterior 3.5" screws that holds it all together with of course some wood glue:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA260005.jpg
Here you can see it coming together, I checked it to make sure it was square:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA260004.jpg
And lastly the platform is completed, I will sand the 2"x4" a bit more and give the whole thing a coat of white paint to help protect the wood from the moisture. Once that is done then I can place the poplar wood trim that will be stained on the front and sides.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PA260006.jpg

[Fache]

Michael, thanks for all the great tips and advice, good luck with all the mods

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8429028#post8429028 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fache
Michael, thanks for all the great tips and advice, good luck with all the mods
I am happy to help out when and were I can but to tell you the truth I still consider myself a novice. I have enough knowledge to be dangerous:D I was able to get one coat of paint on the platform today and maybe in the next day or so I can give it the second coat. I still have a few kinks to work out on the stand as far as what to do for doors and stain color ( wife wants a different color stain) etc, but I think I will get it all worked out as I move along. This definitely has turned out to be a bigger project than I expected. Just to many ideas in my head.
Take care
Michael

[Aqua Keepers]

Lookin good my friend!! Thanks for being so detailed. It's an easy to follow thread. Why did you build the platform 28" front to back? Isnt your tank 18"

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8429984#post8429984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Lookin good my friend!! Thanks for being so detailed. It's an easy to follow thread. Why did you build the platform 28" front to back? Isnt your tank 18"
The platform is actually 31" wide and the idea is that it will help to spread the tanks weight over more rafters, not sure but thats the the idea since the rafters run length wise. I am using a mildew resistant white satin paint which does not require a coat of primer. The paints first coat acts as the primer and the second coat seals it, at least thats what the directions say on the can. Painting the platform may be an extra step that I could do without but I figure why not in case water is spilled on it at least it will be protected.

[theotherleft]

Looking forward to seeing the stand and cabinets completed. Keep moving along so I can get more ideas. I too have just enough knowledge to be dangerous.

[Michael Mota]

OK I was able to finish painting the platform yesterday. Here is a pic and I must say it came out nicely:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I actually had some time today so I started on the polar finish wood for the outer edge of the platform.
Here you can see I cut some pieces to be applied to the very front and sides then I cut the pieces for the top section.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat1.jpg

This is the poplar pieces or trim I should say applied to the platform frame. I used wood glue and 1.5" finish nails:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat2.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat3.jpg

In this pic you can see the top pieces in place:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat4.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I sanded everything with 60 grit sand paper using my orbital sander. Then I used my router to trim up the edge and make it look pretty. Did I mention that I hate routers, you have to be really careful with a router cause it can mess up the edge quickly. Yep I screwed up with the router but I was able to fix most of it with some hand sanding and I think once it is stained and polyurethanes it will be OK. These pics show the edge of the wood work. I also sunk the finish nails into the wood and then filled the holes with putty. The final sanding was made with 220 grit sand paper.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat5.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat6.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat7.jpg

And last but not least the platform completed and just waiting for stain on the poplar wood trim
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/finplat8.jpg

[Hampton]

I'm not going to lie to you. I like the woodwork. Be sure to put all of the weight of the tank on vertical pieces, not on horizontal pieces which are secured to vertical pieces - do not rely on any joint.

[Michael Mota]

The stand will go on top of the platform in the middle so it will sit on the vertical pieces. Thanks for the tip will come in handy when I build the stand for the tank itself.

[Justin/TiV]

Looking pretty sweet, I was wondering why you drilled all the holes for the closed loop ? wouldn't that just distribute the flow so it wasn't strong at all ?? On my old system I put a tee on my return and it distributed the flow approx in half...and I didn't like it cause it wasn't causing enough out of either, I'm wondering if yours will do that x100 ??

[Aqua Keepers]

Looks like you handle wood pretty well! (LOL) Just wondering if this is how you mean the tank will sit? Useing your diagram, the red lines represent where the tank stand sits.

[Aqua Keepers]

OOps. Everytime I use paint shop I can't upload the photos directly to the thread. I gotta upload them in my gallery. It's in there. Go check.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8438687#post8438687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
OOps. Everytime I use paint shop I can't upload the photos directly to the thread. I gotta upload them in my gallery. It's in there. Go check.
Yep!! Now your catching on!:rollface:

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8438644#post8438644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Justin/TiV
Looking pretty sweet, I was wondering why you drilled all the holes for the closed loop ? wouldn't that just distribute the flow so it wasn't strong at all ?? On my old system I put a tee on my return and it distributed the flow approx in half...and I didn't like it cause it wasn't causing enough out of either, I'm wondering if yours will do that x100 ??
Rite now as it stand the close loop has two 1" bulkheads for returns to the pump. The two 1" bulkheads will go into a 1.5" PVC pipe which will feed the pump with water. Kinda like having a 2" bulk head. Then there is two 1" bulk heads which will be behind the rock work with a revolutions on each bulk head. Two returns to the tank will go over the tanks rim and into the tank There will be an ocean motions also connected to the closed loop and that will alternate flow between the nozzles. I do not see any problems with flow or pressure. This should work nicely. Also remember the Dart pump will be right behind the tank so there maybe just 3' of head pressure.

[Aqua Keepers]

Justin/TiV, the portion of the closed loop system you see with all the holes in it is the intake portion of it. Michael does'nt want any livestock getting sucked to it. That's why he needs to distribute the Intake flow there.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8446405#post8446405 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Justin/TiV, the portion of the closed loop system you see with all the holes in it is the intake portion of it. Michael does'nt want any livestock getting sucked to it. That's why he needs to distribute the Intake flow there.
Thanks Pito, I misinterpreted what he was asking. Yes the holes in the white PVC is the strainer for the pump, like Pito explained. With that much PVC and all the holes the suction should be very minimal which will make it safe for any animals swimming by and would be less resistance on the pump trying to suck water.

[Michael Mota]

Sorry for the delay guys and gals but I needed to do some preventative maintenance on my 90 Reef Tank cause I really do not want to let it get bad looking. Here is a pic of the tank (best i can do with my old camera) enjoy:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/90reef.jpg
I will try to see if I can get some time today to stain the wood work on the platform and post some pics.
Take care all,
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

Do what ya gotta do brotha. At least you're getting somewhere. I got the 125 taken apart a couple weeks ago and haven't touched it since. I'm not in a rush as I'll have to wait to see what happens with your stand beforeI get started on mine. Don't worry it wont be a copy cat deal. BTW, your 90 looks great. How old is that pic?

[Michael Mota]

Hey Pito,
I just don't have the time to do everything I want to do or need to do, lol The pics was taken today after the water change was done. Don't worry about making the stand exactly like mine, its up to you if you want to copy my set up, feel free. I should have patented my design :) Just kidding!!
I just ordered the Mag Drive 1800 pump from a fellow reefer on here. This will be my return pump which will be in the sump. I use this pump on the 90 for a return pump. I am really happy with the Mag18 pump. In four years the Mag18 on the 90 reef has worked without any issues. I also wanted a back up just in case I needed one. The sump was ordered from my lfs, its going to be a 30 long glass tank which I will have to put in baffles for the different sections. Coming together slowly.

[Aqua Keepers]

Well I guess I can say i made some progress. I've been buying some equipment, and everyone knows how big of a battle that can be I got a PCX 55 genx for my returns that I'll run through two penductors. I'm hopeing to get a 55 for a sump. Tank got cut for the CL and for external overflows. I wanna get a Dart for the CL and hopefully a 4way or something.

[Michael Mota]

I figured I would post the paint, stain and poly that I will be using on this project in case anyone wants to know.
Here is the satin white paint that i am using on the structure of the platform/cabinet. The first coat primes then the second coat seals, it is also mildew resistant for up to five years.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/PWIEggShell.jpg

This is the stain I am using on the finished wood work. After a few weeks of debating what color to stain the finish woodwork and actually picking the color I wanted, I ask my lovely wife (first mistake, lol) what she thinks about the stain color I picked? Well as I am showing her the color on the color chart by Minwax she points to a different color and says this is a much better color for the wood work. To think I spent weeks agonizing over this and in 30 seconds she has it all figured out! So you all know what happened next, I went with this color stain:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/woodfinish.jpg

I am using the fast drying poly from Minwax, clear semi-gloss. I have used this on past projects and I like the finish it leaves, not too shiny.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/fast-poly.jpg

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8459447#post8459447 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Well I guess I can say i made some progress. I've been buying some equipment, and everyone knows how big of a battle that can be I got a PCX 55 genx for my returns that I'll run through two penductors. I'm hopeing to get a 55 for a sump. Tank got cut for the CL and for external overflows. I wanna get a Dart for the CL and hopefully a 4way or something.
Glad to hear your getting started! Maybe start a thread so you can share your ideas and thoughts with everyone. I for one love tank build threads, Lots of ideas that can help others. Plus you can get some good info from others like things you may miss or not think about, if you know what I mean;)
Hey that Gen-x pump won't it be some what loud? i have heard those pumps make a low hum noise, am I wrong? Thats why I like to use the Mag Pumps for returns, really quiet pumps.

[Aqua Keepers]

Let me guess, the final color stain choice was hers? I'd imagine keeping a healthy marrige is tough when involved with this hobby. I'm a dating man myself and most girls I date think i'm insane when it comes to my hobby.
I've read great things about the PCX versions. Have you heard otherwise. I plumbed it up to the bathtub to test it as I purchased it used, and was satisfied. I originally wanted to go with a submersable pump like the mag, but you can't use them with penductors as they need pressure rated pumps.
I will definatly start my own build thread now that I have a digi cam. I'll post you a link when I get'er goin. Maybe tomarrow.

[Michael Mota]

I could be wrong on the pump making noise, but to me anything louder than silence is too loud. Your right you do need a pressure rated pump for those. As you may have figured out I did go with the wifes choice for the stain color. I figured since she is letting me do this project with no restrictions then why not let her pick the stain. After all she is the home decorator:rolleyes: :thumbsup:
Cool, I can't wait to check out your system, hurry get me the link:D

[Michael Mota]

Here is a couple of pics of the wood work after I finished staining it today. Now I need to give it three coats of polyurethane and it will be done. let me know what you folks think of the stain color.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/platformstain.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/platformstain1.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I was shopping on line last night. I ordered one Aro 250watt MH electronic ballast. I have been using these on the 90 reef for about two years now and they have been great plus the price is decent. I will be moving the two halides from the 90 reef to the 125 and with this ballast It will give me three MH bulbs to span across the tank evenly which will be one bulb for every two feet. I also ordered a ARO vho ballast, again I have one on the 90 reef and it has worked nicely without issues for over four years. I am going to use the two ballasts to run four 36" vho over the tank. Why use two ballasts and four bulbs when you could use one ballast with the 72" bulbs, you ask? Well the 36" bulbs are cheaper to replace four bulbs than two of the 72" bulbs and the 36" bulbs will put out more wattage all together than the 72". Weather or not more wattage overall will make a difference I do not know. The last reason is I already have a 48" vho ballast on the 90 reef so it was cheaper to just add another 48" ballast than to change the whole setup.
I also got a great deal on digital timers, bought two. These are the ones that the plug goes into it through the front and not the side.
Well thats all for now and I am off to do put some poly on the platform.
Take care all,
Mike

[Michael Mota]

OK today I was able to give the platform two coats of poly. I also moved the heating/cooling thermostat from the wall where the tank will go. Reasoning was 1. I think it would be too close to the tank and it would be reading incorrect temp of the home due to heat coming from the tank itself, and 2. The other side of the house is much larger and is the coldest part of the home so being in that room and about in the center of the house will probably help to keep the home much warmer overall in all parts of the house. This home really needs two heat zones.

[Aqua Keepers]

I see you're thinking with your wallet on this.
I started a thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=8467611#post8467611

[Michael Mota]

Yes I am but for some reason it is still costing a fortune! Saw your thread and me likes so far.

[Michael Mota]

Well today I was able to give the platform its third and final coat of polyurethane. Came out much better than I expected and in case you guys and gals have not notice I really love the furniture look. Here is a pic of the wood work with three coats of poly:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/3coatsofpoly.jpg
What I have to do now is clear the section of wall where I want to put this monster. I need to move the bird and computer to a different spot in the home. Also need take down all the pics and stuff on the wall and touch up the paint. Once this is done I can try to move the platform up the stairs to the second floor. I hope it will fit up the stairs if not it will have to go through the window.

[Aqua Keepers]

If you can't get the platform up, how are you gonna get the stand up?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8472049#post8472049 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
If you can't get the platform up, how are you gonna get the stand up?
Oh I can get it up stairs, just a matter of going up the stairs or through the large window which is used for a few select items when I moved in here. Sometimes through the window is so much easier than the stairs. Either way I want to be careful so I do not damage the finish after all that work I put into this. Still a ways away cause I have to get the room ready for this to be placed in the room.

[Michael Mota]

Here is were the tank will go. As you can see I have removed the thermostat ( far left) And the shelfs ( far right). I have to move the bird into the other room and today I bought a new computer desk for the new spot that the computer will go to. The holes in the wall are covered and drying, once that plaster is dry I can spot paint the wall to the original cream color. I also have to install the 20 amp circuit in the wall.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/wall.jpg

[Michael Mota]

Here is a pic of the 20 amp circuit. The circuit is specifically for the tank only. I have a 20 amp GFCI on the right side and on the left is a regular plug that will always stay hot/on. Reason for this is if the GFCI ever trips then the return pump will stay on to help support tank/critters lives. I will hook up all non essential items like the lights, skimmer, etc on the GFCI and the return pump and maybe one circulation pump will plug into the hot (unprotected plug). My 90 is set up on a 15 amp GFCI and one time it tripped due to moisture build up which cause my whole tank to shut down. I do not want this to happen to the 125 and I do not think this will be a safety issue ether cause I can always test the pumps etc. for stray voltage plus I will have a ground probe. The 20 amp circuit should be more than enough power to operate the tanks equipment.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/20ampcircuit.jpg

[craftedpacket]

Any updates on your stand? Very interested in your design. I am looking at building one in the next 2 weeks.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8496143#post8496143 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by craftedpacket
Any updates on your stand? Very interested in your design. I am looking at building one in the next 2 weeks.
All I have done is finished the platform. I am actually working on getting the room ready to move the platform into its place. I have moved everything in the room and spot painted the wall. I also needed to move the baseboard heat to accommodate the platform. The electrical is in place. The last thing is to setup the R/o filter with another DI canister (ordered it today) and run the R/o tubing to the area where the tank is for the automatic top off. Lastly I will install the drain line that will go from the sump to the sink drain pipe. This will make water changes much easier and will be a back up in case the sump overfills for some reason.
The reason this is going slow is cause I am working a lot of hours and the family takes a lot of my time also. Bare with me, it will all come together albeit slowly.

[craftedpacket]

I know how you feel I have been working on my 140 for close to a month. Hard to squeeze in the time it needs to get it all going. I was almost done when my dad said it would look a lot better with a nicer stand...I agreed so we are going to start that project soon. Good luck.

[msp2673]

Those look like 15A rated fixtures. Don't 20A fixtures have a slightly different plug like this:

http://static.zoovy.com/img/kyledesign/W165-H341-Bffffff/white/white_20a_gfci_outlet.jpg

[Michael Mota]

edited cause I could not delete this post, see below

[Michael Mota]

What I have is a GFCI receptacle, back and side wired 15AMP 125V at receptacle, 20 AMP feed-through.
The one you posted is a 20amp 125v at receptile with20 amp feed through.
Could some one tell me what is the diference other than the feed amperage? Would using the one I have on a twenty amp circuit make any difference?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8499077#post8499077 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
What I have is a GFCI receptacle, back and side wired 15AMP 125V at receptacle, 20 AMP feed-through.
The one you posted is a 20amp 125v at receptile with20 amp feed through.
Could some one tell me what is the diference other than the feed amperage? Would using the one I have on a twenty amp circuit make any difference?
Does any one know or can explain the difference Between a 15 amp and 20 amp gfci? Hello is this mike on! Tap Tap tap:D
I have a sinking feeling that the home depot guy gave me some bad info.

[Michael Mota]

Some news!
I finished painting the wall where it needed it and the radiator heater has been moved. Today I ran the new R/o line which will be need for the auto top off. I also was able to modify the sink drain pipe so it will accept a 1" pipe. I still have to run the pipe through the wall to the kitchen sink. Here is a simple pic of the wall area:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/wallready.jpg

I am in the drawing stage trying to complete the waste/overflow draining system. Not sure how I will get this to work but I am thinking of using two floats, one for the when I do a water change it will kick on the external pump automatically. Then I will switch it over manually so the other float valve will be in control. This float valve will be placed high ( about the top) in the sump so if for some weird reason the sump becomes over run with water the float valve will kick on and send it to the drain before it can spill in the room. I don't for see this happening but I figure why not add this little feature just in case.

[Michael Mota]

Here is the drawing of the stand section. This is just a preliminary rough design/drawing and I will make changes if need be as I build it. I just wanted to give you folks an idea of how it will be built.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Stand.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I have not been able to start on the stand as of yet, maybe this week I will have some time. I did order all the electronic stuff/parts to make the ato and the waste water systems.

[Michael Mota]

Today I actually did a few things. First I went ahead and changed the GFCI to the proper 20amp GFCI receptacle just like the one posted above by another reefer. After talking to an electrician I know it was best to change it so it can handle the 20 amps without a problem.
The second thing I did was I added an extra DI canister filter to my R/O 5 stage filter system so now it is a 6 stage. It has one sediment, two carbon, two DI and one R?O membrane cartridge. I also ran all the piping in some type of manner were everything looks somewhat neat and organized. Not to mention it gives me more room to work on things (like filter changes when needed), being under the sink as it is it is a tight fit already. I also have a reservoir/reserve r/o water holding tank that was cleaned out today. I actually store water in the reserve tank for when it is needed for water changes or what not.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Rowater.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/ROwater2.jpg

[Aqua Keepers]

Mr. Mota, Glad to hear you got the GFCI thing figured out. I don't know jack about electrical stuff, but I got a good friend that's (what I like to call) a backyard electricion. So, I plan on letting him help me when i get there.
Quick question on the stand plans above. Why are you only makeing the stand 15.5"deep? Isn't your tank 18"deep?
I have'nt made any progress on mine at all due to a knee injory. I'm hopeing to have all the silicone off the glass and have it put back together by x-mass, but I'm not sure how the knee will feel.

[Michael Mota]

Pito, the stand side piece is 15.5 cause the front section will mate up with the side section. You have to account for the 2x4's width.15.5 plus 1.5 plus 1.5 equals 18.5". I am really not good with explaining this maybe someone else can explain it better than I can but I think you will understand once you see some pics of it together. I am hoping tomorrow I can start on the stand plus I still have to move the platform upstairs from the basement. Just waiting on my hired hand to show up tomorrow and help me. Once thats out of the basement I can start on the cabinet.
I thought I was going to get a lot done this week being on vacation but my twin daugters came down with strep throat and one of my boys are sick. So again the tank takes a back seat to everything else in life, especially family but let me tell ya the itch to get it done is killing me. You must take care of yourself first and nuture that knee, thats an order,lol. I am following your thread too cause I am a bit excited to see how your tank build turns out. Especially since your planing the cabinet design based on mine.
Today I ordered the 1" sea swirl used from a reefer here on RC and I have all of the electronic stuff on order for the top off system and the water change system. The 30 gal long tank that will be used for the sump was picked up last week but I still need to figure out how many baffles to use and were to put them. I really have alot of thinking to do, :)
Take care,
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8541399#post8541399 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Pito, the stand side piece is 15.5 cause the front section will mate up with the side section. You have to account for the 2x4's width.15.5 plus 1.5 plus 1.5 equals 18.5". I am really not good with explaining this maybe someone else can explain it better than I can but I think you will understand once you see some pics of it together.

You've explained it well sence'

[Michael Mota]

Here is a pic of the R/o reserve water container. Its nothing more than a rubber maid 15 gallon (I think) container. I installed a float valve in the back so the container can fill up without me worrying to shut off the water on time. Once full I shut off the valve which feeds the R/o water to it. Inside I have a submersible pump with a hose attached to it. The plug and hose comes up through the top via a hole I made. When I need water I just plug in the pump and wallah water comes out of the hose. Thought some one might like to see it. I have it inside one of the bottom kitchen cabinets.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/roreservecontainer.jpg

[Michael Mota]

Well today was the day!!! Me and my hired hand (actually my neighbor) moved the platform up into my house. It went smoother than I thought and it went up the stairs with no problems at all. I originally thought that because it was over 9' long it would have been an issue. Here is a couple of pics of us moving it up the stairs and into the house.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/platformmove.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/platformmove2.jpg

And lastly here it is in place. Looks pretty nice so far if I say so myself. I went ahead and labeled what all the things on the wall are in case anyone is wondering.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Platformmove3.jpg

[Michael Mota]

Well as you folks know today started out really good (refer to previous posts) but as soon as I started work on the stand it became a nightmare. I started to cut the 2x4's with the dado blade to make the notches and all of a sudden my table saw slowed down, motor started to make a loud noise and then began to put out some serious smoke. I quickly shut power to the table saw and unplugged it from the receptacle. Upon further evaluation I came to the conclusion that the table saw was toast which was not hard to do.:(
So to actually make the stand I had to change quite a few things like the measurements and design as far as how the 2x4's would come together. All this cause I was not about to go out and spend $300.00 on a new table saw just for this project. I will just have to borrow my brother in law's table saw when the need arrives. I better make that phone call now so I will have it when its time to build the cabinets:D
All in all I was able to build all four sides to the cabinet. I actually made the height 33.5" instead of 30" cause I thought the 30" was too low. Overall once the cabinet is sitting on the platform it will be a total height of 37.5"I have to do some sanding and then I will add the braces. Once that is done I will put it all together and then paint it white to seal the wood. I will post some pics tomorrow when I get a chance.
Here is a pic of the new design and measurements:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Stand-1.jpg

[cdentii1]

D&@# YOU!!!!! YOU MADE ME DO IT!!!!!;)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/cdentii/100_0387.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/cdentii/100_0388.jpg

$$$ is tight with the holidays around the corner right now however I plan to start a new thread shortly.:eek1:

[Aqua Keepers]

So thats what the Mota man looks like.

cdentii1, Post a link

[Michael Mota]

cdentii1,
Awesome cabinetry, did you do it yourself? Looks good my friend.

Pito,
Yep thats me in the black shirt with the paint on it, lol Ain't I a good looking (getting old) man:D

[Michael Mota]

Hey guys and gals, good news!!
The stand is put together, sanded and ready for paint. I did not get step by step pics this time cause I was short on time and I really wanted to get this together today. But I think that looking at the pics you can see what I did and how it came together. I still need to get the plywood for the bottom of the stand and do some minor things but thats no big deal. Maybe tomorrow I will have a chance to buy the plywood. Any how here are the pics:

Back of the stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standback.jpg

Front of the stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standfront.jpg

Side of stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standside.jpg

And the top of the stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standtop.jpg

[Aqua Keepers]

You're pretty fast my friend. You're makeing me feel like saying screw the knee and get busy.

[CPT. MURPHY]

Very cool

CPT.

[Michael Mota]

Pito, not really that fast. It took most of the day to do the stand, especially sanding it took like for ever.

Cpt, thanks for the comment!

[craftedpacket]

You can hold a truck up with just one 2x4....That thing there is bomb proof.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8559249#post8559249 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by craftedpacket
You can hold a truck up with just one 2x4....That thing there is bomb proof.
Well I understand what you are saying here. Let me explain, I would rather it be built to with stand any thing my children can give it. We have 6 children and they can do some really crazy things. So I like to be on the safe side and not worry if my kids bump into it or try to push the tank over, lord knows they have tried much more crazy things than that. lol

[craftedpacket]

I am not saying you wrong for building it like that. I was just commenting on how dang tuff it is. I couldnt build mine like that because I wouldnt be able to finagle my 55 gallon sump in there.

[Michael Mota]

OK the stand is completed! I was able to get the plywood today and I had it cut at the store, which made it so much easier than cutting it at home. I double checked the stand to make sure it is square and then the bottom went on with some glue and screws. I made the shelf on the back of the stand that will hold the pump for the closed loop. This is nothing fancy just a few pieces of wood that was left over. The first coat of paint was applied today and drying as I write this. I think this will do it for this week cause I am leaving tomorrow to pick up some corals and then I will be leaving for a day trip with the misses. Here are a few pics of what I did to the stand today, this should hold every one over till next week:mixed: Have a great weekend y'all
Mike


Pics:
Bottom of stand / plywood applied to stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standbottom.jpg

Stand's first coat of paint
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/stand1stcoat.jpg

The shelf on back of stand for closed loop pump
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standshelf.jpg

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8559857#post8559857 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by craftedpacket
I am not saying you wrong for building it like that. I was just commenting on how dang tuff it is. I couldnt build mine like that because I wouldnt be able to finagle my 55 gallon sump in there.
I am sorry, I did not mean to offend. I was just explaining my reasoning for the build in that manner. I did understand what you meant but maybe I was not creative in my writing.:D
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

WOW, with 6 bambinos I'd have to say you'll need to build a military style fence around the tank with barbed wire and a few land mines. I hope that trip with the wife doesn't make #7. I was wondering if you spread the two center supports out some if it'll be safe? I'll take some measurements and post a diagram later. I just need to be able to get a 55 in and out. All in all, it looks good and solid. You've been very busy this week. Now go have some fun.

[Aqua Keepers]

Ok, here's the diagram I drew up. Sorry, but I'm no artist. The diagram is as if you were looking at the front of the stand. Notice I put the two center braces 4ft from one an other. I'm not sure how much that'll leave you on each end of a 72.5" stand built from 2x4's. However, I'm wondering if that would give me enough support in the center of the stand as well as give me the room to squeez a 55g under there. What do you guys think?

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/rlugo29/4centerbraces.jpg

[cdentii1]

Yea that would be more than enough support just make sure to have the braces spaced evenly in the back. However you could always install the sump once the stand is in the final position and simply screw in the middle support.

[Michael Mota]

Hey Pito,
Yep that should be OK. You could make the stand so you are able to slide it in through the side or do what cdentii1 suggested on the the previous post. Heck you could even put the sump through the top before placing the tank on the stand. Now heres some stuff for you to think about.
.

[Michael Mota]

I was thinking that I am going to place Styrofoam insulation of 3/4" on the bottom, two end sides and the back side of the tank. Here is why I am thinking of doing this. Because glass has a tendency to release heat at a good rate I think by adding the insulation I could control the heat and cooling of the tank in a way that would help to lower costs. I mean heater will probably run less if the tank is insulated and chiller will probably run less in summer. The insulation will help to keep heat in (winter) and heat out (summer). Since the back and sides are painted I could hide the insulation within the stand/cabinets.
What do you all think about this idea? Is it something I should try? Do you all think it will work in the manner that I think it will? I know it works well for homes so what about a tank? I appreciate any input anyone may have on this.
Thanks
Mike

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8562196#post8562196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
Yea that would be more than enough support just make sure to have the braces spaced evenly in the back. However you could always install the sump once the stand is in the final position and simply screw in the middle support.

I would definatly have the back spaced evenly. Pito likes the idea of screwing in a middle support after the sumps in. I could make it removable.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8562324#post8562324 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Hey Pito,
Yep that should be OK. You could make the stand so you are able to slide it in through the side or do what cdentii1 suggested on the the previous post. Heck you could even put the sump through the top before placing the tank on the stand. Now heres some stuff for you to think about.
.

The way I have my stand planed out in my head, I won't be able to just slide it in from the side. I need the sump to be removable (just in case), and putting it in through the top wont cut it. I'm likeing cdentii1's idea.

[Michael Mota]

Sounds good to me, but you don't have to get all fired up about it:)
Man this stuff (reef build decisions) will drive a man to drink, oh wait that was my ex lol:D

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8562384#post8562384 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
I was thinking that I am going to place Styrofoam insulation of 3/4" on the bottom, two end sides and the back side of the tank. Here is why I am thinking of doing this. Because glass has a tendency to release heat at a good rate I think by adding the insulation I could control the heat and cooling of the tank in a way that would help to lower costs. I mean heater will probably run less if the tank is insulated and chiller will probably run less in summer. The insulation will help to keep heat in (winter) and heat out (summer). Since the back and sides are painted I could hide the insulation within the stand/cabinets.
What do you all think about this idea? Is it something I should try? Do you all think it will work in the manner that I think it will? I know it works well for homes so what about a tank? I appreciate any input anyone may have on this.
Thanks
Mike

Sounds like it would work. I'm sure someone has thought of trying this. I would go ask in the DIY forum. I've seen people use it in their tanks and spread agrocrete over it to make it look like stone. I'm wondering if that would be the same? Definatly worth looking into.

[Michael Mota]

Hey Pito thanks for the input, I will post it in the DIY Forum to see what people think about this idea.

[Aqua Keepers]

Cool. Let us know what you find.

[cdentii1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8552830#post8552830 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
cdentii1,
Awesome cabinetry, did you do it yourself? Looks good my friend

Well it was kind of mine however I would have to give most credit to a friend whom works in a cabinet shop and donated alot of lunch breaks (or so he claims to, I think its called CYA) I purchased all the supplies and he made the 6 doors and 3 panels I did the rest.:smokin:

[Michael Mota]

I am just about done with the control box for the waste water/emergency overflow system. The stand has received two coats of paint just need to paint the bottom of the stand. Things will be moving slowly being so close to Christmas time, If you know what I mean.
I have decide to go ahead with using insulation to help insulate the tank. I think this will give me better control of the temp and maybe save on electricity in the long run. Heck if it does not then I could always remove the insulation.

[Michael Mota]

The control box for the waste water/emergency overflow system (thats what I am calling it) is completed. Now I need to make the bracket that will hold the two float valves for this system. Here is a pic of the box, I know I went overboard with the labels but my thinking is if I am ever away from home and I need to trouble shoot something then who ever is there with the tank will be able to follow my directions:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/wastewatercontrolbox.jpg

The stand is done, just waiting for it to dry and then I can bring it up stairs and put it in its place.

[cdentii1]

WOW!!! Now thats awesome. You should market them.:eek1:

[Michael Mota]

No marketing here, lol Everything I do is strictly for hobby enjoyment:)

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8587589#post8587589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
The control box for the waste water/emergency overflow system (thats what I am calling it) is completed.

Ok, but what is it really and what does it do?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8596381#post8596381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Ok, but what is it really and what does it do?

OK this control box will control an external pump. When I do a water change the idea is that I will pump the water into the display tank's bottom and the old water will over flow into the sump. Then the float switch will realize that the sump is filling up and will activate the pump and start draining the water to the drain I installed on the wall. Once the water is all pumped out it will shut down automatically. Hence no more carrying water around the house like I used to do and of course spilling it all over the place, lol. once I am done with the water change I will trow the three way switch over to the emergency overflow position. This way if the sump for some reason becomes too full risking a spill or overflow of water the control box will kick the pump on and start sending water to drain. I really do not see this happening but I figured if I am going to build this thing why not add this little feature, just in case.

[Aqua Keepers]

Pretty slick!

[Z-Man07]

that's really slick!! I am going to be tagging this one so I can come back to it and build my own later on. I talked the wife into agreeing to our future upgrade. I am going to start slowly building a 60x30x30 230gal over the next two years. I am stationed in NC right now and can't wait to leave. (avoiding buying my own house right now because I am hoping to get orders back to SC). I want to..


Sorry, Mike. Started babbling. I don't want to hijack your thread. Keep an eye out for my thread coming after the holidays!!!

Happy Turkey Day everyone!!

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8597151#post8597151 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Pretty slick!

Glad you think so! Seriously I had one person telling me I was pretty much wasting my time by doing this but like I said early on that I have a lot of ideas and I am wanting to implement some of them in this new tank. Water changes are more of a pain in my buttocks but I do them cause I think they are beneficial to the tank and its inhabitants and if I can make something to make this task simpler and if it keeps the wife from yelling at me (cause I just got water all over the floors during a water change) then I will. I just hope it works once it is put into service, :)

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8598645#post8598645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Z-Man07
that's really slick!! I am going to be tagging this one so I can come back to it and build my own later on. I talked the wife into agreeing to our future upgrade. I am going to start slowly building a 60x30x30 230gal over the next two years. I am stationed in NC right now and can't wait to leave. (avoiding buying my own house right now because I am hoping to get orders back to SC). I want to..


Sorry, Mike. Started babbling. I don't want to hijack your thread. Keep an eye out for my thread coming after the holidays!!!

Happy Turkey Day everyone!!

Hey no need to apologize, blab on good gentleman. Hey when you get that thread going send me a link to it! Sometimes theres so many threads on here that I miss the good ones.
Take care and Semper Fi
Mike

[Michael Mota]

Man do I have a serious issue! I was leveling the platform today cause it was not level sitting on the floor. I know that these floors in my 110 year old house are not perfect but who would have guessed that the floor was 1.5" off on one side of the room. I have to shim 1.5" up on the right side to level the platform. Good God how am I going to manage that one (I said to myself) but I think I have a plan. What I did so far was use shims to take care of anything that needed to be raised were you could not see it. On the front section I will make a piece of wood cut to match the floor and make up the difference so the stand will be level. I will also stain and poly this piece so it is not as obvious to the eye. Man how come I always run into this kind of stuff?! lol
Here is a pic of the right corner showing the 1.5" gap. I placed a shim in front to give people an idea of what I am talking about:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/Platformlevel.jpg

[Michael Mota]

On a good note the stand section is completed!!!
I gave it two coats of white paint but the bottom received three coats of white paint. I also siliconed the bottom section of the stand so if water does spill in there, the stand will contain it. I do not want to test this theory but I am confident that this will work if it is ever tested, if you know what I mean. :confused:
OK here is a front view of the stand sitting on the leveled platform, :lol:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdone1.jpg

This is a side angle pic:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdone2.jpg

What is that shinning light coming from the stand, you ask? Well dealing with my 90 reef for just over 4 years and every time I need to do something under the stand I always wish I had installed some kind of lighting just so I can see what it is that I am doing. So I found these fluorescent 14w fixtures made by Lights of America at WaL-Mart. They are nice, small in size, they plug into one another so you can use just one plug, each has there own light switch also giving me the option to turn on one at a time or both at the same time. Check it out they put out some good light for 14 watts each. Here is a frontal view with the inside cabinet lights on:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdone3.jpg

On this pic you can get a better look at the lights, they come with a very small bracket that allows me to mount them on the inside of the top front 2x4:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdone4.jpg

Last but not least I decide to mount the waste water control box to the 2x4 in the back of the stand. This will give easy access when ever I need to switch the system:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdone5.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I think I said this before but here it is again. I am going to insulate the bottom, right and left side and the back of the tank in the hopes that it will allow for better control of tank temperature, especially during the colder months when the house is much cooler than the tank.
Here is a short thread (just a few posts) about the insulation idea if any one cares to read it: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=974441

[Michael Mota]

The pump for the waste water system arrived today ( bought it used from a fellow reefer here on RC) and I have taken care of the leveling of the stand issue. I also ordered the baffles for the 30 gallon sump so hopefully they will be ready soon for me to pick up. Once the baffles are in the sump then I can plumb the pump and complete the waste water draining system and place the sump in its place. Still trying to figure out the minor details for the front of the stand, not sure how I want the end product to look. Sorry guys and gals for the slow progress but this time of year is difficult to get some free time. I also need one more person to volunteer to help bring the 125 tank up to the second floor, that seems a bit difficult to find,lol I think I am going to concentrate on the sump for now and get most of everything done in that area before I start any more work on the stand for the simple reason that it is all open making it easy to reach and work in there.
Take care everyone and happy holidays!
Michael

[Michael Mota]

I was able to pickup the glass for the sump baffles yesterday and I finished installing them today. Here is a couple of pics showing that
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/sump1.jpg
Here is a pic with the second baffle installed. I used glass for the baffles cause it is so much cheaper than acrylic and the silicone adheres to glass very well so no issue with the baffles coming lose in a year or two.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/sump2.jpg

The pump for the waste water/emergency overflow system has been placed in its place but I need the sump to be completed (waiting for the silicone to dry) before I can finish the piping. I also placed a catch basin under the pump in case of a leak or for when I remove the pump for cleaning, it will catch the water. Its the shiny thing under the plumbing for the pump.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/wastewaterpump.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

This setup looks great so far...I'm definitely tagging on this one because I just got a 125g and stand last night...

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8649358#post8649358 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
This setup looks great so far...I'm definitely tagging on this one because I just got a 125g and stand last night...
Hopeful Reefer congrats on the new tank!! If I may say take the time and enjoy building/putting together the tank for this is a part of the reef hobby that I think everyone enjoys. Sometimes some folks say I enjoy it so much that it seems that I stretch it a bit:lol:

Update!!! I was able to place an order for some stuff that I was in need of for the tank, odds and ends stuff to help make everything come together. The sump has been put in place and the waste pump/system is completely plumbed. Now to start work on the skin for the stand.
Here is a pic of the sump, pay no attention to the Garland:rolleyes:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/sumpinstalled.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8665705#post8665705 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Hopeful Reefer congrats on the new tank!! If I may say take the time and enjoy building/putting together the tank for this is a part of the reef hobby that I think everyone enjoys.

Well...congrats on the 125g are not in order it seems...check out this thread here (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=983899) to see the condition of the tank when I actually got to see it in decent light...

Long story short though, I am getting my money back from the guy...and, the owner of the saltwater LFS that most of the people in this area patronize got in a sweet setup...75g drilled w/corner overflow, Durso Standpipe, LocLine return plumbing and bulkheads all for only $180!! :eek1: So, I've already reserved the last one and pick it up on Monday...it's 2 feet shorter than your tank but I will definitely have just as much fun with it!! :D

[Michael Mota]

Sounds like a good deal Hopeful Reefer!

Here is a pic of the front skin (finish wood work) for the stand portion. Now I just have to build it! It will be made out of 1x6 and 1x4 poplar wood and held together with glue and screw. I could use my biscuit joiner but I think the screw will work better. We'll see!
Here is the simple design:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

Are you skinning it with poplar, and then adding the 1x4s and 1x6s on top of the skin as molding?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8669142#post8669142 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
Are you skinning it with poplar, and then adding the 1x4s and 1x6s on top of the skin as molding?
No, I am using 1x4 and 1x6 poplar wood pieces. put them together as in the drawing and thats the skin/finish woodwork for the front of the stand. Ofcourse I will also be making doors for the opening but that will happen much later on

[cdentii1]

I would use 3/8" oak pressed/particle board, with oak trim instead of poplar the actual pressed board will cost less however the trim will cost more all in all it will be a little more expensive however much more sturdy and appealing just my .02 cents worth. Take a look at my stand and canopy (just click on my little red house) as that is what I used and I am very pleased with it.

[Michael Mota]

I decided early on that the whole stand/cabinets will be made from poplar wood. I want the whole thing to match and trying to not use different woods plus I am no big fan of particle/pressed wood especially around water. I have always had problems with that stuff when water got onto it. Thanks for the suggestions.

[cdentii1]

I am sorry I used plywood not partical/pressed anyway I am more than sure it will be awesome as the rest so far has. Keep it up.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8678361#post8678361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
I am sorry I used plywood not partical/pressed anyway I am more than sure it will be awesome as the rest so far has. Keep it up.
OK, now thats a whole different thing. Plywood is just as good if not better than some woods, especially for furniture. I am just going to keep with the simple design I have planned, nothing to fancy. I also want to say thank you for the nice comments. Hopefully I will get a chance later on to post some pics but I must run some errands and go to Lowe's to get some things I need.
Mike

[Michael Mota]

Here it is, the frame to be placed on the front of the stand. This will complete the stand once in place then its a matter of making the doors but that will probably be the very last thing to be done.
In this pic you can see how I used 1.5" exterior screws to hold the frame together:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin1.jpg

And this pic is of the whole thing put together and stained. What you see in this pic is the back side which is the side that will mate up with the stand:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin2.jpg

I decided to go ahead and place a piece of molding on the top of the stand front which can be seen when I flip it over. I really like the way it came out so far but it took me a long time to put this together cause as I build it I must take into consideration how everything is going to fit together especially since it is all being built in separate sections. I will post pics of the front section as soon as the Polly on the back and sides are dry.

On a good note my order arrived today with no missing pieces, lol
so here is a pic of the sock holder with sock in its place in the sump:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/filtersock.jpg

Last but not least this pic shows the new heaters ( two 150watt)and the return pump (back right corner) in the sump:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/heatersandreturnpump.jpg
Till next post,:)
Mike

[Michael Mota]

Here is a new design print showing the stand skin with the molding added at the top of the finished woodwork for the stand front:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin-1.jpg

Here you can see the 1/4" indent and 1/2" up past the 1x4. the reason for this is that the frame for the tank will set down behind the molding and hold it in place. The 1/4" indent is for the molding on the cabinets to cover where the two meet (cabinet and stand) so that it will give the appearance of one unit once all together:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin3.jpg

This pic shows the finished wood work for the front of the stand. It is almost done just need to give it the third coat of poly and then I can attach it to the front of the stand:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin4.jpg

Its a pretty easy build so far, I think the hardest thing was trying to figure out the design. If you folks have any questions just ask and I will explain as best as I can.
Mike

[Hopeful Reefer]

Is that front one solid piece or several pieces joined together...your last picture makes it look like you used several pieces and joined them...if so, which joint method did you use?

Looks great so far...I was gonna use molding at the top of my DIY stand when I build it as well to hid the tanks plastic frame and this confirms what I want to do... :D

[Michael Mota]

Hopeful Reefer,
That is made from 1x6 and 1x4 pieces put together with screws. The key to make it look like one piece is good straight cuts and some quality sanding. The blueprint of the skin posted up top is exactly what I did for this. Look up a few pics and you can see how I drilled the woodwork and screwed it together. I know realize I could have used 1x4 to build this and saved some money instead of using the 1x6 but oh well its done now.

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8688273#post8688273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Here it is, the frame to be placed on the front of the stand. This will complete the stand once in place then its a matter of making the doors but that will probably be the very last thing to be done.
In this pic you can see how I used 1.5" exterior screws to hold the frame together:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin1.jpg

And this pic is of the whole thing put together and stained. What you see in this pic is the back side which is the side that will mate up with the stand:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/standskin2.jpg

I decided to go ahead and place a piece of molding on the top of the stand front which can be seen when I flip it over. I really like the way it came out so far but it took me a long time to put this together cause as I build it I must take into consideration how everything is going to fit together especially since it is all being built in separate sections. I will post pics of the front section as soon as the Polly on the back and sides are dry.

On a good note my order arrived today with no missing pieces, lol
so here is a pic of the sock holder with sock in its place in the sump:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/filtersock.jpg

Last but not least this pic shows the new heaters ( two 150watt)and the return pump (back right corner) in the sump:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/heatersandreturnpump.jpg
Till next post,:)
Mike

Mike, What are you useing to make those angled screw holes?

[Michael Mota]

Pito, its a cheap jig that Lowe's sells. It has a piece that you clamp on the wood and a bit that actually makes the hole with a drill. Don't know what it is called but I will take a pic and post it for you. Maybe someone can chime in here and give you the name of what the tool is.

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8719666#post8719666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Pito, its a cheap jig that Lowe's sells. It has a piece that you clamp on the wood and a bit that actually makes the hole with a drill. Don't know what it is called but I will take a pic and post it for you. Maybe someone can chime in here and give you the name of what the tool is.

Any idea what the price range on said jig would be?

[wardworld]

Try this:
Kreg Rocket Pocket (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=205289-39450-R2&lpage=none)
Or this:
Kreg mini jig (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=205297-39450-MKJKIT&lpage=none)

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8720371#post8720371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wardworld
Try this:
Kreg Rocket Pocket (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=205289-39450-R2&lpage=none)
Or this:
Kreg mini jig (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=205297-39450-MKJKIT&lpage=none)
Thanks for the help Wardworld! The second one (mini jig) is what I use and thats what I paid for it also.

[Michael Mota]

I got the finished skin/wood work done on the stand today with the help of my little helpers. They were great and I could not have done this today without there help:)
All I did was put some glue on the side that meets up with the 2x4's of the stand and then I screwed it all together from inside the stand. Tell me what you all think of it so far?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125005.jpg

Here is a closer look at the stand skin/ finished wood work. If I may say so I am completely impressed on how great this is coming along but there is so much left to do, so its not time to celebrate yet.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125007.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

That looks great...I hope my stand looks that good when I do it...

How much $$ you sink in to building just the stand so far?

[Z-Man07]

Looks really good. I have been wanting to pick up one of those jigs for a bit now. Would the double jig be worth the double price?

I like the way your finish turned out. I like to use poplar, too. It really holds a nice crisp edge when you mould the edges on a router table. Keep up the great work, on the stand, and documenting it for us.

So, when does the water go in??????????

[wardworld]

Personally, I have the double jig and really haven't found THAT much use for the 2 holes that close to one another. Not saying it won't come in handy...it just hasn't for me yet.

[Aqua Keepers]

Lookin good my friend. I'm jealous! Is the frame of the stand sitting a little higher than the skin, or is that just how it looks from the pic? Are you're helpers for hire?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8720667#post8720667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
That looks great...I hope my stand looks that good when I do it...

How much $$ you sink in to building just the stand so far?
So far I have spent about 360.00 in all. That includes wood, screws, hardware, stain, poly and other misc stuff. I figure about another 300.00 to finish it off maybe less. All in all I think if I spend 600.00 to complete the stand/cabinets it will be worth it cause for one I get to build it the way I want it and two that is really a small price to pay considering that this would cost me a fortune if I had someone build it for me. Heck I bought three tables for the new living room and that was over 660.00 so use your imagination as to how much this would cost if it was built professionally. Of course there is the matter of my time and work to build it but I do enjoy that part.

[Michael Mota]

Z-Man07 Looks really good. I have been wanting to pick up one of those jigs for a bit now. Would the double jig be worth the double price?
Really depends on what you want to do. If you think you will need to make two holes next to each other then yes but if your like me then the cheaper jig will work fine.

I like the way your finish turned out. I like to use poplar, too. It really holds a nice crisp edge when you mold the edges on a router table. Keep up the great work, on the stand, and documenting it for us.
doing the staining does take some experience and trial and error with the wood your working with. Also using different types of material (ex: paint brush, sponge, towel) to apply the stain will give you different effects/color of the same stain. Poplar does look nice and routing this wood is also fairly easy as you say.

So, when does the water go in??????????
Not sure maybe a month or two, I still have a lot to do with the cabinet plus I still have to make the cal and kalk reactors plus build the chiller and the power center. I am also going to make the refugium and frag tanks. So maybe longer especially since money is tight this time of year. Darn gifts:rolleyes:

Pito Lookin good my friend. I'm jealous! Is the frame of the stand sitting a little higher than the skin, or is that just how it looks from the pic? Are you're helpers for hire?
Yes it is slightly higher than the cabinet skin. reason is the frame is going to cover this section and lock into the cabinet skin hence the reason for placing the molding up 1/2" higher than the 1x4 (see blueprint for the skin on the stand)
Funny those are my twin daughters that really do help me out quite a bit compared to the other kids. They are the most enthusiastic over the fish tanks.

[Aqua Keepers]

Mota, did you do a water test to check the new silicone yet?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8731491#post8731491 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Mota, did you do a water test to check the new silicone yet?
Man where were you? :smokin: Right after I put the tank together it was tested in the basement. Holds water just fine, NO LEAKS!:D

[Aqua Keepers]

I might of been a lil toasted when I read that one, and not like your smiley above. LOL

[Michael Mota]

Seems I have figured out on what to do for the frame/hood. The frame and hood front will be one piece. I do not plan on having a full traditional hood, all it will be is the hood front with a door to open when I need to work in the tank. The frame for the tank will also be a part of this. Here is a blue print of what I am about to do:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/framedesign.jpg

Hey Pito I am laughing my butt off with the last few posts!

[Aqua Keepers]

It's what happens when a mans got no job. He drinks and surfs RC. I have no idea as to what I'm looking at in your blue print, but I'll wait till I start seeing build pics before I start asking questions. BTW, I just wanted to thank you for being so detailed with this thread. You don't see alot of threads like this.

[Michael Mota]

Hey Pito,
Thats what happens when you work nights and can't sleep on my days off, lol. I try to be specific cause like I said in my first post, I want this to be a good thread for people to get some ideas and use them on there own tank builds if they would like to. Some of the things I am doing here are ideas that I too got from others as they built there systems. The only thing is I modified some of these ideas to fit my needs and of course some are my own (like the waste water system) that I wanted to try for a long time. I am suprised that there has been so few replies but maybe I am explainig things well enough for people to understand? lol

The blue print (wish I knew how to do 3-d drawings) is pretty much explaining how I am going to build the tanks frame that goes around the front of the tank to hide the tanks plastic moldings and silicone corners. Kind of like a picture frame does to a picture. The hood front will be part of this also which will eventually be a very large door that can be opened to allow for working in the tank. There will be no hood as most have, it will be just a door at the top made to look like it is a hood so it covers the light rack(which I need to make also).

Update:
I am going to move the tank up the stairs tomorrow and put it in place on the stand. I have finally got enough guys to help me move it from the basement to the second floor and place it on the stand. I will post pics of it as soon as that is done.
Take care,
Michael

[Aqua Keepers]

I get it now. So, when looking at the blue print, I need to imagine I was looking right at the tank. The bottom open section is where the tank will be visable, and the top section is where the door will be to let you access the tank. For some reason I was trying to figure it out as if you were supposed to be looking at it as a top down pic of a hood frame.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8740160#post8740160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I get it now. So, when looking at the blue print, I need to imagine I was looking right at the tank. The bottom open section is where the tank will be visable, and the top section is where the door will be to let you access the tank. For some reason I was trying to figure it out as if you were supposed to be looking at it as a top down pic of a hood frame.
You got it!!

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8739762#post8739762 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Update:
I am going to move the tank up the stairs tomorrow and put it in place on the stand. I have finally got enough guys to help me move it from the basement to the second floor and place it on the stand. I will post pics of it as soon as that is done.

Good luck with that...bigger cahonas than I have to attempt basement to 2nd floor!! :lolspin: :D

Can't wait for the pictures...

[Michael Mota]

Alright!!! Tank was placed on the stand today. Took three people to move this tank from the basement to the second floor moving one step at a time so as not to drop the thing. I almost blew my back out one time when we went to pick it up off the floor to place it on to the stand. I did not use my legs properly and I felt my back letting go, what a tremendous pain that is but luckily I yelled in time for everyone to put the tank back down and it seems I adverted a major back pull. I really feel normal again today, lucky me!
Any how we first placed the tank on the stand to make sure it fit perfectly and once I was content that everything was OK we removed the tank off the stand. Then I placed 1/2" Styrofoam on top of the stand then the tank went on top of that. This step was taken just in case there is some minor imperfection in the stand that I am not aware of. I also had to cut one of the corner supports to make room for the overflow bulk heads.
Here take a look folks:

This is a pic of the overflow bulk heads, you can see what I had to cut
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125011.jpg

This pic shows the insulation between the stand and the tank
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125010.jpg

And here is the tank sitting on top of the stand
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125009.jpg

[thisisme]

in that first pic is that aluminum tape??? if not what is it lol

[Hopeful Reefer]

Looks like the outer layer of house insulation if you ask me...you know, the 4' x 8' sheets you cover your house with...I believe some of it has some sort of aluminum-like covering on one side...

[Z-Man07]

Ditto on Hopeful's post. It will reflect the lights nicely inside the stand.

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8720644#post8720644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
I got the finished skin/wood work done on the stand today with the help of my little helpers. They were great and I could not have done this today without there help:)
All I did was put some glue on the side that meets up with the 2x4's of the stand and then I screwed it all together from inside the stand. Tell me what you all think of it so far?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125005.jpg


Hey Michael I have been following your thread for a while and it looks like you have a cool project going, but I'll bet the real thrill in your life are those beautiful twins, what a riot. Mine are now 24 years old and it seems like yesterday they were your girls age.

Anyway I'll keep following along, good luck.
Your work looks great so far.

[cdentii1]

Michael Mota
It looks loke you need to change the date stamp on your camera, I have been guilty of that my self just recently. Anyways Awesome work and just wanted to let you know that you inspired me to set back up my 125 (well you, the holidays and the Wife needing more room that is).
Cheers

[Aqua Keepers]

No pain, no gain. Trust me I know how heavy a 125 thats 1/2" glass is. I thought that you were only supposed to use insulation between the tank and stand when your tank was flat bottomed / no trim?

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8742630#post8742630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I thought that you were only supposed to use insulation between the tank and stand when your tank was flat bottomed / no trim?

You could probably get by without the insulation but it's a nice safety cushion.

I started out with 1/2" on my stand before I set my tank but it was such a PITA while trying to set the tank that I just ended up chucking it. I did use it on my sump in the garage however because it's a flat bottom acrylic, AND considerably lighter.

I saw another thread where a guy used a rubber exercise mat that didn't break apart and that's a good idea too I think.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8742213#post8742213 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thisisme
in that first pic is that aluminum tape??? if not what is it lol
Yes like Hopeful Reefer explained. It is house styrofoam insulation which is used on the outside of the house, I think. I thought with this on the inside of the tank stand then the lights that I installed under there for when I work under the stand will help reflect the that light so much better.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8742602#post8742602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdentii1
Michael Mota
It looks loke you need to change the date stamp on your camera, I have been guilty of that my self just recently. Anyways Awesome work and just wanted to let you know that you inspired me to set back up my 125 (well you, the holidays and the Wife needing more room that is).
Cheers
Geez how did I miss that, this is my wifes camera that I use when mine has dead batteries, :o
Thanks for the compliments, it has been rewarding so far to see my ideas come to life, sort of speaking.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8742444#post8742444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuby2k
Hey Michael I have been following your thread for a while and it looks like you have a cool project going, but I'll bet the real thrill in your life are those beautiful twins, what a riot. Mine are now 24 years old and it seems like yesterday they were your girls age.

Anyway I'll keep following along, good luck.
Your work looks great so far.
Yes they are truly my inspiration in life although we do have 6 altogether but the older ones are too busy for mom and dad these days. My twin daugthers love to help me with everything but overall they love the fish and tank since day one. They are the boys I always wanted:D -just kidding

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8742630#post8742630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
No pain, no gain. Trust me I know how heavy a 125 thats 1/2" glass is. I thought that you were only supposed to use insulation between the tank and stand when your tank was flat bottomed / no trim?
I like the insulation under there cause I think it is great insurance incase the stand is not perfect I would not want to have some spots on the tank to have pressure points in certain areas due to the stand being off by 1/8"

[Cuby2k]

Hey Michael, I have re-read your thread looking for someplace that you might have addressed the issue of weight on the floor. That's when I caught your note that your house is 110 years old and the floor sloped by 1.5". Yikes! Any concerns there? Do the floor joists run parallel or perpendicular to the length of the tank?

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8747104#post8747104 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuby2k
Hey Michael, I have re-read your thread looking for someplace that you might have addressed the issue of weight on the floor. That's when I caught your note that your house is 110 years old and the floor sloped by 1.5". Yikes! Any concerns there? Do the floor joists run parallel or perpendicular to the length of the tank?
Well I was concerned at first but upon further investigation of the floor joists and how the house is set up I am confident that this will be fine. All joists are made from oak wood and very thick. nothing like the soft pine wood they use today. They run parallel (with the length of the stand) thats why I made the platform for the stand to catch more rafters/joists to spread the weight. As far as the floor level being off a bit, that is to be expected considering the houses age, settling of the house all these years, and the fact that back then everything was probably done mostly by eye. Heck I am surprised it is not worse, lol But of course the ultimate test will be when the tank is filled :eek:
Take care

[Michael Mota]

Overflow piping completed, finally!
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/overflow-1.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

Does this mean we'll see water in it sometime soon? :D

[Michael Mota]

Hey guys and gals I built the frame wood work that will cover the front of the tank. Here in this pic you can see how it will cover the tank or make a sort of picture frame around the front of the tank with the top part having the door over the tank for access to the top of the tank and to the lights. I still have to router the edge around the tanks viewing edge and then sand the whole thing before staining it. This was just to test the fitting of it in place before I went any further.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125013.jpg

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8765893#post8765893 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
Does this mean we'll see water in it sometime soon? :D
Nope:eek1:

[Michael Mota]

In this picture you can see the blocks of wood that was added to the back of the frame. This is so I can screw the cabinets into the frame which will hold the frame in place.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125014.jpg

In the next picture is showing the router-ed edge that goes around the tank section
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125018.jpg

And lastly the whole frame which has been stained, still need to add molding to the top and then poly the whole thing but that will have to wait till I get the cabinets built. Once the cabinets are done I will be able to put the moldings on the top.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125020.jpg

[Michael Mota]

I have put together a drawing of the side cabinets. With any luck I can start to build them next week, maybe. Just had a death in the family so that will take precedence. Plus I have some other minor things that need to be taken care of. Till then you all have a good Christmas Holiday.
Michael
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/cabinetdesign.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

First and foremost, condolences from my family to yours...family deaths are hard enough without being around the holidays...

As for the drawing...it looks similar to what I want to do with my tank...I want a cabinet on both sides as well...I'm however going to join mine to the tank stand/hood with the furniture screw type fasteners...the ones that are 2 pieces, 1 is the screw and the other is the screw threads...this will allow me to build just the stand first and the cabinets later but still have it all securely fastened...

Again, my condolences...happy holidays... :)

[gman107]

michael your tank is looking really good ,where did you learn to work w/wood. and w/all those kids its a wonder you get anything done at all!

[Aqua Keepers]

Sorry to hear about your loss man. My prayers will be for your family tonight.

What kind of wood are you gonna frame the side cabinets with? May I suggest doors on the both the front and sides of the side cabinets. You also may wanna make the shelves inside so that you can move them up or down if needed.

[Michael Mota]

Thanks hopeful reefer, I do appreciate it. It was my aunt who really was a nice lady but overall I really feel bad for my cousin for she is a only child and has to deal with all of this on her own for the most part. Of course she has family members that are there for her but it is hard especially since her dad passed on just three years ago and this being so close to the holidays. Life is really tough sometimes, enjoy every minute possible.

About the cabinet, I will be using exterior screws to just hold everything together. Not many will be needed, maybe four per cabinet to secure it to the stand and frame.

Gman107-
Thanks for the compliment! I learned everything I know from watching others do woodwork and I use to watch Norm Abram all the time and believe it or not he really taught me alot from just watching his show the Yankee Work Shop, I think thats what it was called(not sure if he still has that show). But overall I still consider myself a novice.
It really is tough to try to jugle everything but I learned to manage my time very wisely but even then there are times that I get thrown a monkey wrench and my plans get thrown off but that is expected with all the kids:D

Ok I need to sit the family down to eat and then its off to the boys late hockey game. yeppie!!

See ya,

[Aqua Keepers]

Hopeful Reefer, I'd like to know more about these furniture screw type fasteners thingies

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8795132#post8795132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Hopeful Reefer, I'd like to know more about these furniture screw type fasteners thingies

Ask and ye shall receive... :D

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/31831-01-500.jpg

Drill a hole through 2 pieces...insert goes in one side, screw goes through the other...tighten them down and it pulls the 2 pieces together...

They are called Connector Bolts...can be found here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=368).

Hope that helps... :)

* Disclaimer - This is simply a statement of fact and not an endorsement of a particular product *

[Aqua Keepers]

Those look like a great idea. You'd be able to take the side cabinets off as many times as you wanted without messing up threads in the wood and what not.

[Hopeful Reefer]

Exactly the reason I want to use them...plus, I can make them so that if I move...and need to have the tank in such a way over the floor joists that the cabinets need to both be on the right or left of the tank I can do that...just pop out the insert, put it in a different hole and fasten everything together. Makes the stand/cabinets modular...

I'll be starting with just the stand and building the cabinets later...so, necessity being the mother of invention I found these on the internet and I'll get some from Lowes or HD when the time comes to build the cabinet...

But enough about me and my stuff...back to your regularly scheduled tank thread... :lol: :lmao:

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8794845#post8794845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
What kind of wood are you gonna frame the side cabinets with? May I suggest doors on the both the front and sides of the side cabinets. You also may wanna make the shelves inside so that you can move them up or down if needed.
I will make the side cabinets out of 3/4" poplar plywood. The front section will be framed with poplar boards but I am not sure what size as of yet. Pito I am liking the idea of having doors on the front and side of the cabinet but that will significantly increase the over all cost due to having to make more doors. Some thing to think about though, I will consider it. The shelfs will be stationary, I do not see the need to increase cost to have them adjustable.
Thanks

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8796489#post8796489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
Pito I am liking the idea of having doors on the front and side of the cabinet but that will significantly increase the over all cost due to having to make more doors. Some thing to think about though, I will consider it.

No need for doors. You could make removable panals with those furniture screws Hopeful Reefer posted.

[Michael Mota]

Let me say the connector bolts are a good idea but for me I really do not see the need for them. Once the whole stand is together there should be no need to take it apart unless I move homes or just move the whole setup. So I think regular screws will work just fine for my application. But thats just me and heck if I was to move the tank and for some reason mess up the screws I could always use these then. jmho

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8796515#post8796515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
No need for doors. You could make removable panals with those furniture screws Hopeful Reefer posted.
No because that would be too much of a hassle to remove the panels and then I would have to build some type of frame to keep the shelfs in place. As it is the plywood will support the shelfs which will eleminates the need for framing. Doors would be really convenient if I need to access the cabinets for some reason.

[nhanson]

Personally I'd use Tee-nuts instead of those "binder bolts". Tee nuts imbed into the back side of the wood with metal teeth, so you don't have to use a wrench on both sides. Just spin out the machine screw/bolt from the outside.

Great looking project by the way!!

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8807097#post8807097 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nhanson
Personally I'd use Tee-nuts instead of those "binder bolts". Tee nuts imbed into the back side of the wood with metal teeth, so you don't have to use a wrench on both sides. Just spin out the machine screw/bolt from the outside.

Great looking project by the way!!

For my project I'll go with what I posted...simply because the binder bolts will leave impressions where the teeth dig in to the wood...my cabinets are going to be built to be all on one side or some on either side...if they are all on one side, I can simply plug the hole with a similar stained/piece and you'll never see it...if there are holes from the binder bolt teeth though, they will have to be filled, sanded, etc...

So, personal preferrence which someone uses...just depends on the situation but both will work well...

[nhanson]

Another nice option that I've used to connect sections of top-end furniture is the brass threaded inserts that Woodcraft sells. They're sleeves that are threaded on the inside for machine screws, and the outside has heavy threads to be screwed into a hole drilled in the wood case-side. You might look at that too. Easy to plug later. Not much advantage over your binder bolts though. Just a little less visually obtrusive, but inside a cabinet that's not really a big deal.

[Jake15]

That is a really nice setup you got going there. Keep it up

[Michael Mota]

Thanks to all for the comments, Its nice to hear that my novice woodworking skills are good to go!
OK what everyone has been waiting for, more updates and pics!
Lets get started!:cool:

In this pic I am showing the tool that I use to make the biscuit holes. It is just a simple biscuit joiner made by Ryobi which I think is a really nice tool.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125001.jpg

Here the tool is set up to cut a biscuit hole, push the button on and just push the tool into the wood and wallah biscuit hole.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125002.jpg

This is a pic of the side cabinet coming together, everything is joined together with #20 biscuits and nailed with 2" galvanized finished nails
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125003.jpg

Here you can see that the biscuits are being placed into the holes using wood glue, also all of the woods mating surface is glued together. once the biscuits are in place I can place the side board on and nail it.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125005-1.jpg

Just another pic of the biscuits in place before putting the side piece on.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125007-1.jpg

Here is the cabinet together but I still have a lot of work to do. Needs to be sanded and I have to fill in the nail head holes plus I still need to make the frame for the front and complete the back section of the cabinet that will be removable to gain access to the back of the tank.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125008.jpg

Today I received the 4-way and the Dart pump. I bought these used from another reefer here on RC. I need to clean them up and then I can place them in there spot behind the tank and plumb it all. I never realized how big the 4-way is, wow its huge. I am glad I left a lot of room behind the tank. I know have a second dart and mag1800 pump so when they need to be cleaned all I have to do is swap them out. The reason for the extra pumps is to keep down time to a minimum and I have a back up if needed. These two reasons to me makes the extra money to have two of each worth it.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/tank125009-1.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

Looks great my friend...can we get a pic of a dry pit of how the cabinet looks setting on the frame? I know it isn't totally finished, but it will give us an idea of what it will look like...

Can't wait to see it with water and all in it...I was able to get sand, water and live and base rock in my 10g nano today...pics are posted in my thread...

Great work and Merry Christmas... :D

[Cuby2k]

An OM 4-way huh. Well now I am jealous.

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8810577#post8810577 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
Looks great my friend...can we get a pic of a dry pit of how the cabinet looks setting on the frame? I know it isn't totally finished, but it will give us an idea of what it will look like...
I may not be able to do that cause this is somewhat heavy and I don't know anyone who is willing to lug it up two flights of stairs and then back down and then up again when it is ready, lol I am trying to not tax my help so much so that when I really need them they will be willing of course I will have to bribe them with some Dunkin coffee:D
Cuby2k- An OM 4-way huh. Well now I am jealous.
Don't be! This setup cost a fortune ( for me anyways ) and it better put out like every one who owns one says:lol:

[Aqua Keepers]

Beer makes them do anything.

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8814015#post8814015 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
I may not be able to do that cause this is somewhat heavy and I don't know anyone who is willing to lug it up two flights of stairs and then back down and then up again when it is ready, lol I am trying to not tax my help so much so that when I really need them they will be willing of course I will have to bribe them with some Dunkin coffee:D

Can we maybe get some pics of it standing up in your basement then? I have a creative imagination so I might be able to make my minds eye see it right... :lol:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8814087#post8814087 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
[B]Beer makes them do anything.

A M E N B R O T H E R ! ! :lmao: :D

[Michael Mota]

Hopefull Reefer- sure but it won't be until after the holidays I am all done working on this for now. Its time to enjoy the family and to think about all the gifts I will be receiving, you know like what kind of tie or underwear I will get this year :) Maybe I will get some really cool pajamas, lol Any how You all have a great holiday season!!

[Aqua Keepers]

I know you already have the Nemo PJ's

Happy holidays

[Michael Mota]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8816441#post8816441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I know you already have the Nemo PJ's

Happy holidays

Yep and I also have the sponge bob square pants boxers!! Gotta love my kids they know exactly what I want :D

Hope everyone had a great Christmas day!

Here is a pic of the heater holder I made out of scrap acrylic. Basically I just glued the heater holders to the acrylic.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/heaters.jpg

[Hopeful Reefer]

WHAT?! This is all the update you give us? We deserve SO MUCH MORE!!! :D

Just Kidding...although, more in this case would be nice... ;)

Looks great...is the holder for simply setting on the floor of your sump or do you have another way of fastening the acryllic base somewhere in your sump? I've often thought about making a wall of various pieces of equipment to put in my sump, maybe even use it as a baffle but have never done so...basically, hold any probes, the heaters, etc...your DIY heater holder definitely gives me some ideas, just need to know how it is attached to the sump... :)

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8833416#post8833416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael Mota
. . . . .
Here is a pic of the heater holder I made out of scrap acrylic. Basically I just glued the heater holders to the acrylic.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/michaelmota/heaters.jpg

Cool idea I like the simplicity of it.

I have had a real problem with the heaters that have the thermostat attached to the head, they seem to stick on no matter what the actual temperature is. The result this past summer was some severly over-heated water days. Since then I have gone to some remote stat mounted heaters and they work fine.

Soooo, Michael will you keep us updated on how well the heaters work for you? It may be that mine were AGA and maybe it is just this brand that messes up but it is an important issue to keep up on.

[Cuby2k]

You must check this (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=8834270#post8834270) out.