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fkdenton
11/14/2006, 01:13 PM
I just bought a used aqua safe ro/di system today. Anyone have experiance with them. I will need to get filters before long and it had no instructions or anything. I went to thier website www.aquasafecanada.com but not alot of help. Anyone with experiance with these let me know.

Dubbin1
11/14/2006, 01:36 PM
What kind of help are you looking for?

cristhiam
11/14/2006, 01:42 PM
here is the case of filters and stuff, I have the same unit, how long have you had it?
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Aqua-Safe-Pure-Water-Shop_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

Thefilterguys
11/14/2006, 02:27 PM
Be happy to help, if the system has been sitting for a while you may have to replace the membrane. For sure you should change the sediment and carbon filters and DI if they are not new.

Jim

Paintbug
11/14/2006, 04:20 PM
i have an Aqua Safe unit myself. what ya need to know? i still have the instruction sheet they emailed me as well. if you need it let me know.

AZDesertRat
11/14/2006, 04:49 PM
Talk to Jim at FilterGuys.
The filters AquaSafe uses are pretty low grade and will not last as long nor filter as well as the ones he sells. Notice in their case quantity ad they never mention very important things like Micron ratings, chlorine adsorption capacities or the fact that granular carbon is not desireable for reef systems???

cristhiam
11/14/2006, 08:39 PM
why is this not desirable? "granular carbon is not desireable for reef systems? I have not had a problem with it? I'm still running the same filters for about 8 months I have not seen TDS increase yet.

fkdenton
11/14/2006, 10:46 PM
I have never had a ro/di unit before. I am not even sure how to run it. Do I just hook it to the faucet and let it go? It is the most common one they sell for fish use. 100gpd I dont know how to tell if I need to change the filters. It is a year old. Were is the cheapest pace to buy filters for it?
Thanks

fkdenton
11/15/2006, 06:47 PM
ok I got it working and the tds meter is reading 7 Is that ok? My tap water is 315

Dubbin1
11/15/2006, 07:12 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8555372#post8555372 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fkdenton
ok I got it working and the tds meter is reading 7 Is that ok? My tap water is 315

7 is ok (not the best) coming from the RO but coming from DI it should be 0.

AZDesertRat
11/15/2006, 07:40 PM
Granular carbon has several drawbacks a couple of which are it breaks down and passes fines or carbon dust which can plug a RO membrane if you do not have a very high quality sediment filter or carbon block down stream to trap it. It also does not hyave anywhere near the chlorine of volatile adsorption capacity that a good carbon block has, most granular carbon only filters a few hundred gallons of water at 1 mg/L or ppm chlorine residual vs a carbon block that can filter up to 20,000 gallons at the same concentration. If you use GAC I would highly suggest you purchase a low range chlorine test kit and use it on a regular basis to look for break through of chlorine as it will destroy a RO membrane very quickly.

Prefilters and carbons should always be changed every 6 months without fail. This is especially important if you use your unit for drinking water also. You are removing any trace of chlorine residual or disinfectant with the carbon so any viruses or bacteria that are present in the tap water can possibly multiply in the filter housings. If you think about it you are providing a perfect place to grow bacteria, dampness, warmth and if you have clear housings, light. By changings filters every 6 months and disinfecting the housings as recommended you eliminate or at least reduce this risk. Even if you only use it for aquarium water you still need to do this as you can grow slime bacteria in the housings that will plug the membrane and cause problems.

7 down from 315 is pretty good if that is after the RO only, thats 97.7% rejection. If you have DI and thats after the DI you are asking for trouble. DI resin filters by attracting substances that are either positively or negatively charged by using cation and anion resins. The problem is when it begins to exhaust it releases weakly ionized substances first and in greater quantities than it was to begin with in the tap water. These things include nitrates, phosphates and silicates al of which are bad for a reef system. Always change DI resin or cartridges when you begin to see any consistent rise in TDS, I change mine at a reading of 1 to 2.