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StrategicReef
11/29/2006, 03:59 PM
I am setting up the Phosban on a Minijet 606.
I was wondering if it's ok to use a small amount of phosban, it's a 24 gallon and I probably need 2 tablespoons at most.

Is it ok or expected to have the loose phosban tumbling around the cylinder.. or is it tightly packed.. How slow do I want to have the flow, can you describe how it should look like for it to work optimally?

When I finish the phosban I want to use the SeaChem sea gel (carbon + phosguard) has anyone used this? Since I only use a small amount I don't mind changing it out more often.. whichever expires first.

Thanks in advance!

bpd964
11/29/2006, 05:26 PM
phosban is supposed to tumble very little. make sure you use the gate valve to restrict the flow. If it tumbles too much it will turn into powder.

StrategicReef
11/29/2006, 05:30 PM
So what I want to see is that the media piled up in the bottom barely moving even if there is space between the sponge discs?

Kinetic
11/29/2006, 05:30 PM
you want to pack it in. no tumbling at all!

tumbling will help leach phosphate back into the water, rather than trapping it completely. you can never have too much phosban.

try also putting some activated carbon in there as well if you're afraid of drawing too much phosphate out at once.

StrategicReef
11/29/2006, 05:58 PM
Hi Kinetic, what do you use to pack it in? The cylinder is really high and I found you cannot adjust the distance between the discs, they are fixed distance apart and meant for 150 grams of phosban.

StrategicReef
11/29/2006, 06:04 PM
you can never have too much phosban

BTW I thought the consensus here is that start with a low amount of phosban because it could decrease the Alk quickly to poor levels or, shocking the corals.

Kinetic
11/29/2006, 06:06 PM
i would just add a ton of phosban. it can't hurt. Be wary though, if your tank has a lot of corals, a sudden loss of phosphate could be harmful.

PaintGuru
11/29/2006, 06:57 PM
According to the reactor instructions, you want a slight tumble. That is what I have in mine where I used just 40g. I too started slow so I would not lose any SPS. I would think you could use as little as you wanted as long as you have reasonable flow through the reactor.

Ti
11/29/2006, 06:59 PM
Email TLF

xtm
11/29/2006, 10:26 PM
I am using Phosban and I have them tumbling in the Kent Phos Reactor.. I'm having a hard time believing that they will turn into powder if they tumble too much. Have you actually tried to crush one of the granules? They feel solid as a rock. I've had mine tumbling for 2 weeks now... no powder so far.

For what it's worth, I just recently switched to Phosban from Kent's Phosphate Sponge... let's just say I'm not very happy with Phosban as it did not reduce the Phosphate at all. When I was using Kent's, the algae problem cleared up the very next morning. We'll see

cayars
11/29/2006, 10:55 PM
There are basically two types of phosphate sponge material. One type is white and one looks like a rust color. If you are using the rust color type the biggest tip I can give is to fill it when ever you are ready to do a water change. Put in the new material and then move the output to a 5 gallon bucket and let it drain into that to flush/rinse the material. You want to do this as long as it takes to get the water clear (and then some) at the top of the reactor.

You can use the same technique for the white sponge also but it doesn't take as much flushing.

With the rust color sponge material you want very low flow. You want the flow slow enough so you just about see any movement of the material at the top. Otherwise it will break up a little and the "powder" will float into your tank and make a mess. (been there didn't like it). :)

With the white type material you want to see the top 1/4 to 1/2 inch move a tad bit (gentle tumble). You can run a slightly bit more flow with the white material.

More movement then that with either type and your not going to maximize the use of the product. You want a long contact time with it.

To give you an idea with the Minijet 606 you will need to use the supplied valve to cut down on the flow (even with 606 turned all the way down). With the Minijet 404 on the lowest setting it works just about perfect without the supplied valve for phosphates.

Whenever I fill the reactor with any media I always fill it to the top regardless of amount called for with carbon, nitrate or phosphate materials. You can always slow the flow down to a trickle with the supplied valve so that there isn't a big change all at once. You can dialup the flow (to where it needs to be) over a period of days. This way you don't have to keep filling it. Just watch your water chemistry.

Hope that helps.

StrategicReef
11/30/2006, 01:58 AM
Thanks, I have about 30 grams of phosban left, I adjusted it to almost barely moving on the top. It is about 1/5 full, so it does not need to be full at all.

After that will switch to phosguard probably which is the white material.

Algae problem cured overnight? That sounds amazing. I tested my RO water, new salt water, tank water all have the same tone, yellow with a slightly dark tint... so for all I know it might be anything form 0 - 0.05, because it does not match the lowest color of the strip which is supposed to be bright yellow.

Serioussnaps
11/30/2006, 02:58 AM
If you have issues with not having enough in the reactor......add some carbon in with it....thats what i do.