ready to buy, but some questions first

[jacksonpt]

I have 3 primary problems...
1) I'm on a well
2) phosphates
3) silicates

I've done enough reading to know that the two primary problems associated with being on a well are low water pressure and CO2 content. I have a pressure gauge on my well pump - with the shower running, the system maintains 53psi of pressure, so I think I'm good with water pressure. The CO2 I haven't had a chance to test for yet.

So, my questions...

Do most RO/DI systems have a DI bypass? I figure I can use the bypass until I get the CO2 situation figured out.
If not, can most RO systems have a DI system added to it at a later date?
Will and RO system address my problems with phosphates and silicates? Basically, is RO noticably better than tap water, considering my tap water tests very well (for tap water)?
Do you offer Hi-S membranes for additional silicate removal?
Does the temperature of the water affect the system's efficiency? My plan is to hook the system up to a faucet in the basement, but I believe it's cold-water only.
How do the auto shutoffs work? I'll be hooking the system up to a faucet in my basement. I'll turn the faucet on manually and let the RO unit do it's thing. I've had overflows in the past when I forgot to shut off the faucet - I'd like to avoid that in the future.
Since I am on a well, I'm not real crazy about the idea of letting all the waste water run down the drain. Is there any way to feed the waste water back into my home water system? I've heard about "no waste systems", but I don't know much about them.


Thanks fellas.

[Thefilterguys]

CO2 is a big issue with well water and very common if you know your Alk and pH you can figure CO2 levels.

53 psi with the water running is good and you should be OK with a Filmtec membrane only.

You can run just an RO system and add a DI later or just not connect it until your ready.

The rejection rate for a TFC membrane is 92-95% for silicate and 95-98% for phosphates. As far as I'm concerned Hi S is sales hype.

Cold water does have a bearing on water production.

The auto shutoff needs a float valve or float switch to shut the system down.

Waste water is an issue and no waste is only for low demand drink water systems as it puts the waste into your water heater.

We do make a low waste system but you would need to run it with a booster pump as it needs good pressure.


Jim

[jacksonpt]

Excellent, thank you. I'll be ordering later today.