Avast Marine Ozone Reactor?
 

Does anyone have this unit? If so were you able to get your ORP up with it? Either I am doing something wrong or maybe it is the unit. My ORP has not gone up and even goes down. According to my Probe which maybe the issue but it is brand new and Digital Aquatics unit. My ORP is at 270-280 and barely gets close to 285 and sometimes even goes down. I have my ozotech unit at 100 mg/hr on a 55 gallon tank and it still does not go up. Any advice would be appreciated.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...=639805&page=6 starting at post #299

Want2BS8ed and I each run one. Before the reactor I ran 270-280, I now run 320-340. I have no need to go higher with ORP as the water is clear at 4 weeks.

I use a 200mghr unit but only run it at 20-25%. I use an air dryer and notice a huge decline in orp when the media is used.

Are you using a dryer? With the ozone generator disconnected from the reactor but turned on, can you smell the ozone it is producing?

Want2BS8ed? What is that?

Yes I have an air dryer. Could that be the problem? Should I increase the dial?

I can definitely smell the ozone.

Want2BS8ed is a user in the linked thread. The thread is long but has a lot of useful information, including why an air dryer is necessary when using a corona discharge type ozone generator.

Another link with lots of info ; http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php#15

I have read a lot on that link. I will read more on that thread. How were you able to get your ORP Up? Should I adjust the dial? It's possible that maybe I am not injecting enough? My sph is just at 1.8. I have ha it running for 2 weeks and it had not gone up.

I had no problems increasing ORP. I started off with 600-700 gph, .3mg/hr gallon, an air dryer and post GAC filter. I haven’t measure my flow rate, but I would guess I have settled at about 300-400gph and about .32 mg/hr gallon with 2 cups GAC post filter changed monthly.
I have the first generation mutiny II which had the restrictive venture which I have removed. I also added a pressure gauge to the reactor so I can see what pressure it’s running. My water feed pump is not pressure rated so I get about 4 psi internal reactor pressure. I use a luft air pump set to about 75%. If I run the luft any lower the reactor chamber can fill with water instead of air. I have to replace the kynar air check valve monthly, on average at 5 weeks it’ll leak if not replaced.

My pump is a Mag 3 350 GPH. I have the dial at 5 so thats about 88 mg/hr which is 1.4 mg/hr per ga. I have a next reef MR1 shorty filled with carbon. The lift pump is set to full blast. The pressure is in SPH and is reading about 1.8. Not sure what to do but my ORP is not going up at all. I was going to check my probe with some calibration liquid to make sure it is reading correctly. Any more advice.

I also notice on Avast website that the unit has bubbles near the top on the video. I see no such bubbles.

Mine also does not have bubbles above the top plate as the video shows.

From the above specs you are dosing well above what is considered normal range for ozone dosing. I'd start off verifying your orp measurements are truly correct. You can also check your probe against a orp 400mv standard fluid.

I know it seems high to me also. Though the water is not as clear as I expect.

Looks like my ORP probe is messed up. I placed it in some fluid and it registered 370 on a 400 packet. I then put it back into my sump and it now registers 80 mv less then what it was before I removed it from the sump.....Not sure what to think here.

IME, some ORP calibration fluids will alter the probe surface, requiring substantial time in the tank (days) before it is reading "properly" again.

Does it matter that the Ph, itemp, and ORP probe are right next to eachother using a eshopps probe holder?

It shouldn't in theory, but it might in practice depending on how the water is grounded, etc.

Some controllers have issues with other nearby grounds, potentially causing a ground loop error or other errors. Here's a blurb on ground loops:

http://www.all-about-ph.com/ground-loop-problems.html

Should I get a ground loop unit? Stick it in the sump? I have one.

You mean a ground probe? A ground loop is an problem that one encounters, not a device you buy. :)

I use the coralife luft pump on an ozotech 200mg Poseidon on a mutiny III with a Nextreef reactor for carbon. I do not use an air dryer and orp probe/controller to run ozone. I set my Neptune apex to turn the ozone generator on for 2 hrs per day starting at 1am when we are all asleep. The air dryer and orp controller are not necessary. It only takes an hour of ozone per day in a 700+ gallon system to clear the water. I've been doing this for years without issue.

What do you set your Ozonizer dial to? My tank is small so I do not know what to set this too. What do you set your luft pump to?

There must be something wrong with my ORP probe or something leaking or not producing the OZONE out of the unit with the air dryer hooked up. My water is clear but not as clear as I am expecting from ozone. My ORP will not go up or it actually goes down with the ozone so there is something wrong.

My ozotech is set at max 200mg. My luft around 6. My system has over 700 water volume. You would know if your ozone is on by the smell. The carbon does not dissipate a 100 percent of the ozone. If you can't smell it then the generator is broken or need cleaning. Ozone and wet skimming goes a long way for me.

Well my tank is only 60 gallons. I can smell it. I have Luft at max and I am using a 300 gph pump. Mine is the small mutiny unit. Also I have an air dryer and set the ozonizer to 1,2,3 and still the orp does not go up. Stays the same or drops. Maybe I need to increase more? Not sure what could be wrong and the water isn't "ozone" clear like I see at the LFS that has ozone at 380 orp. My ORP barel reaches 240 ORP with the ozone on 24/7 at the settings mentioned above.

I still seem to be having issues. I have it set up at 100% output of my Posedion and almost 100% of my luft pump. I removed the air dryer just to see what would happen and ran it for a few days. My ORP still have not got above 290. In fact there are days where it drops a little. The water doesn't appear to be OZONE clear as I would have thought. Not sure what else to attempt.

You mentioned ORP of 240 mV on 5/1 and 290 mV today. IMO, if the ORP has risen at least some, and 50 mV is plenty, then I wouldn't keep trying to push it higher. There is no evidence that anytthing in the tank prefer higher ORP or even is capable of sensing it.

I discuss it here:

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Equipment and Safety
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 3: Changes in a Reef Aquarium upon Initiating Ozone
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php

from the second one:

So with all that background discussion behind us, here are my recommendations for ORP monitoring and ozone control in reef aquaria using a properly sized ozone generator that appears to be working, and a properly calibrated ORP meter:

1. If the ORP never seems to rise above 375 mV after initiating ozone, do not worry about controlling the ozone or the ORP. Just let it run full out. Also, do not worry about needing a larger generator, assuming it has driven up the ORP by at least 25 mV above where it was before adding ozone. It is likely accomplishing the necessary tasks (such as making the water clearer). Only if some other aspect of ozone use is unsatisfying (e.g., lack of water clarity) would I look for other options such as a larger ozone generator or a better contact chamber.

2. If the ORP starts above 375 mV, or rises there during ozone use, using an ORP controller would be valuable to prevent the ORP from rising too high. Use the controller to shut off the ozone when the ORP rises too high. Another option would be to shut off the air flow to save the dryer's media, but be sure that water cannot flow back into the ozone generator if the air stops. I would set the ORP target somewhat above the baseline ORP in the absence of ozone - at least 350 mV, maybe 400 mV, but never above 450 mV.

I appreciate the information. I have read all of your articles and they have helped a lot. I think I found the culprit. I opened up the reactor and the outlet was clogged with sand and macro algae. Once I removed it it seems the ORP is now rising. I think that was the issue the whole time. i will keep you posed.

Sounds good.

Happy Reefing. :)