New Seahorse Tank Setup Question
 

So I want to setup a seahorse tank, but i really would like to be able to give it to my wife as a gift for christmas. (dont worry, not the only gift) as i am sure this is just as much for me.

Anyway, do you think its feasible to get the seahorse or pair of seahorses and just keep them in QT for the time being until i get the tank setup and cycled and everything?

i really dont want to give her an empty tank as a gift.

I have a reef tank, but i really dont know with the seahorse tank how much is different as far as what are my options for filtration and what can or has to go in the tank.

Sorry, but from what I read in your post, I believe it best by far that you DON'T buy the seahorses at this time. Maybe buy some something manufactured that pictures or is in the form of seahorses along with an I.O.U..
It will take you some time to research what you need to know and to buy for your setup and to do it before Christmas is most likely to lead to failure and deaths.
I was reefing for about 10 yrs before I added seahorse tanks, and then found out that the reefing experience was not all I needed for success.
Even now, fourteen years later, I'm STILL learning as the hobby has evolved SO much over that time span.

im certainly willing to do everything right and put the time in. I just figured there was a way to cycle live rock or whatever filtration is needed on the side as I quarantine the seahorse anyway.

It might be done, but it also may stress the seahorses to the point you could loose them.
Cycling the tank could also take some time depending on your procedure and the rock you select to use.
Main reason though is to learn the specifics of the different needs seahorses have compared to reef tanks.
Just for example, temperature should be 68 to 74°F for bacterial reasons, lower than most reef tanks are kept.
Tank volume MINIMUM would be 30g for first pair, and 15g for each additional pair. Dan Underwood of seahorsesource.com has lately mentioned that by having 30g for EACH pair, even added ones, his customers have had better chances of success.
When you think the tank is properly cycled, challenge it by bringing the ammonia level up to 2-3 and see if it clears overnight. If not, continue cycling.

Maybe i will just get the tank, and leave it empty with a picture of a seahorse in it.

thanks if i went forward with a 30 G tank, would i need to have a sump?

No, a sump is NOT a necessity, but, it makes things much more forgiving when something does go wrong, and, can hold things like skimmers and refugium.
Skimmers are definitely recommended but need to be at least 3 times the system water volume. Refugium add ons can help but are not as much as skimmers.
Where are you going to buy the seahorses from once you are ready?

havent gotten that far. live aquaria i would assume. but i havent really looked into it yet.

I guess first up is finding an ideal tank.

I'd highly recommend Dan Underwood at seahorsesource.com.
The stock is excellent, and, Dan is known to be the best source of help for hobbyists, even those like me here in Canada that can't buy from him.
Also, Dan's systems are all seahorses and therefore are not subject to possible pathogen exposure to systems that have contained, or are connected to like companies that are not in the seahorse breeding business.
In addition, if you are wanting abs, reidi or erectus, live aquaria doesn't come close for the prices seahorsesource sells for.
Also, if you check forums around you, you might find a local breeder that is selling seahorses.
As for tanks, I'm using what is called a 40g tall, but in fact they are only 37g but the Tall part works well. I also have 20g sumps below.

thanks for that info. What do you have in the tank besides seahorses? do you have liverock or sand? what do you have for them to hold on to?

when it comes to that, do you have to use something natural, or can you get some type of artificial colored thing, so that they can try to change to that color?

Seahorse hobbyist are like reefing hobbyists in that their systems are quite varied.
For me, especially because of age and physical limitations, I go barebottom tanks with live rock in the sumps, artificial decor with spares I can exchange and bleach algae build up, mechanical filtration that I can easily change/clean a couple times a week, and timers that I use to turn off the return pump and filter powerheads, turning on an interior recirculation pump, and then after 1/2 hour, the return pump and filter powerheads come back on automatically while the recirculation pump runs on for longer so that uneaten pieces can be kept in circulation long enough for the filter powerhead to remove.
In my years of seahorse keeping and experimenting with colour, I've found NOTHING that makes them change to the colour I want, even if they are purchased with that colour.
I DID find that live rock tends to make them go dark, but sky blue backing on the tanks increases the chances they will go or remain light.
I've tried yellow specific decor, orange and specific decor including painting the back, end and bottom glass in similar colours, even "rainbowing" with those same colours.
No promising results.
They will be the colour they themselves decide best for them in view of how they each perceive best to blend in. Different seahorses in the same tank don't always see it the same so differing colours can be expected.

thanks