Need Help Wiring Fluorescent Ballast - Questions
 

Hi,

I have a regular T8 or T12 fixture that stopped working. When I opened it up, there was a electronic ballast used for running the 2 lamps (The label says: for [2] F32T8 32W or [2] F 48" T12 25W, 34W or 40W). Old Ballast

I couldn't find an exact replacement, so I went to Lowes and purchased an Advanced electronic ballast part number RELB2S40SC for [2] F40T12 Rapid Start. New Ballast

My first question is, will the new ballast that's labeled for 40w work on my 32w lamps?

Second, the new ballast doesn't have a wire to ground directly to the reflector like the original ballast. If you look in the pic of old ballast, there are 6 wires coming out of the left side (red, blue, yellow for the lamp and white, black, and green for the power). On the new ballast, there are 2 yellows for the lamp and a black and white for the power. Why is there no wire to ground to the reflector like the old ballast?

Third, how do the wires disconnect from the fluorescent end caps? Do they just pull straight out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start a fire by accident. :( Thanks!

Some electronic ballasts are compatible with both T12 40W and T8 32W linear 4 foot lamps. These types of ballasts usually have an integrated circuit that can adapt to both lamp types. A T12 40-watt linear 4 foot lamp is designed for 430ma operation and a T8 32-watt linear 4 foot lamp is designed for 265ma operation. The Advance RELB-2S40-SC ballast is designed to output only 430ma to each lamp and is designed for T12 lamps. This ballast will push T8 (265ma) lamps at a higher current (overdrive them / drive them at an increased wattage).

Most commercial grade ballasts do not have a green ground wire. The ballast case and all metallic fixture parts must be grounded. In most cases the ground wire from the power cord is connected to the metallic fixture and/or ballast with a screw. Ballasts that are equipped with a green ground wire the wire is attached to the ballasts metal casing internally.

The method to removing the old wires from the sockets depends on the socket type. With most of them you can pull and twist the wire out. With some the socket has a hole/slit beside the wire connection. You can use another wire or other metal object and push it into this hole/slit and this will release the wire.

Thanks! That explains why there's no green ground wire coming from the ballast. There's only one white and one black coming from the ballast.

Ok, the power cord is currently split into three wires. Like you mentioned, the green ground wire is grounded to the metal reflector (where the ballast will be mounted). But the other two wires are both black. Since the old ballast was pre-wired in the fixture, I can see where existing white and black wires from the old ballast connect to the two black wires from the power cord. Is it safe to assume that I can just reconnect the black and white wires from the new ballast to the current wiring setup?

Sorry for the newbie questions. :o


Sorry for the really blurry pics, I only had my cell's camera on me. Here's the end cap. I don't see anything that would disconnect the wire and I'm afraid of breaking something if I pull too hard. Any thoughts?

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...159493_0_0.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...124677_0_0.jpg


I have a few more questions if you don't mind. For either the 2 red or 2 blue wires, does it matter if I hook up a wire to the left or right connector on the end cap as long as red is with red and blue is with blue? For example in this pic, would it matter if I swapped these two blue wires?

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...194821_0_0.jpg

Since the new ballast has 2 red and 2 blue wires on one side and ONLY 2 yellows on the other side, can I wire it up like this on the side with 2 yellows? The red wires in the pic below is what I'm not sure about.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...7/untitled.jpg


THANKS!!!! :)

Connect the new ballast black and white wires where the old ballast wires are connected.

Those are common type linear fluorescent lamp sockets. See where the wire goes there is a slit/opening beside it (same place the wire goes). You stick a metal object (like a wire or straightened paper clip) in the slit/opening and this will release the wire. You have to pull the wire while you stick the metal object inside.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...H/FLsocket.jpg

Hope that helps

That diagram is correct for the yellow wires.

Ok, so the wiring for the first lamp is correct (blue and yellow wires). Is the wiring correct for the 2nd lamp (red and red wires).

Since there are no red wires coming from the other side of the ballast, did I chain it correctly from the yellow wires?

Thanks for your advice!

The wiring for the yellow wires is correct. The red jumper wires (connecting both sockets) are just splitting the yellow wires from the ballast. One lamp should have 2 yellow wires connected at one end and two blue wires connected at the other end. The second lamp should have 2 yellow wires connected at one end and two red wires connected at the other end.

Can I split the yellow wire from the socket holes or do I have to splice the wires before the first socket? Last question... :D

You can split the yellow wires from the socket. Use jumper wires like the diagram you posted to connect them.

Perfect! Thank you very much! :)