Basic Quarantine FAQ's
 

I don't consider myself an expert in the area of quarantine and treatment, however I think this bit of basic information may be helpful to those setting up and running a quarantine tank. The following should be interpreted as "in my opinion" rather than fact; if anyone feels there is misinformation here let's please discuss it.

1. <a href="#1">Should I quarantine all fish?</a>
2. <a href="#2">What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?</a>
3. <a href="#3">How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?</a>
4. <a href="#4">What filtration do I need for my QT?</a>
5. <a href="#5">How often should I change the water?</a>
6. <a href="#6">How many fish can I keep in my QT?</a>
7. <a href="#7">How long should the quarantine process last?</a>
8. <a href="#8">How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
9. <a href="#9">Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?</a>
10. <a href="#10">How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
11. <a href="#11">What equipment do I need to setup a QT?</a>
12. <a href="#12">What are some medications I should have on hand?</a>

<a name=1>Q: Should I quarantine all fish?</a>
A: Yes. A couple of weeks is a good window for observation of disease and parasites. Even newly acquired healthy fish can benefit from 2 weeks of time by themselves in the quarantine tank to recover from shipping/handling stress.


<a name=2>Q: What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?</a>
A: Set up a separate QT for them. It should never see copper or any medications that may be harmful to corals and inverts. It doesn't need to be large, doesn't necessarily need a skimmer, but will need adequate light and water movement. 2 weeks of observation should help spot any unwanted hitch hikers and pests.


<a name=3>Q. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?</a>
A. Ideally large enough to permanently meet the needs of your largest fish. Realistically, as close to that size as you have room for.


<a name=4>Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?</a>
A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts). Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place.


<a name=5>Q: How often should I change the water?</a>
A: As often as necessary to maintain excellent water quality. Spend $5 and get an ammonia alert indicator so you're not caught off guard by an ammonia spike.


<a name=6>Q: How many fish can I keep in my QT?</a>
A: There is no magic number. Do your homework to understand which fish are compatible with each other, make sure there are enough hiding spaces for all fish to shelter in, and don't overload your filtration.


<a name=7>Q: How long should the quarantine process last?</a>
A: A couple of weeks for observation is ample. If treatment beyond that is required it will depend on the treatment; usually 2-8 weeks. Technically speaking a QT would strictly be used for observation and rest period whereas a "Hospital Tank" would be used for treatment in which case the QT would more closely resemble an established tank, while the hospital tank would be very sterile.


<a name=8>Q: Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?</a>
A: Prophylactic treatment is a personal decision. (I usually treat with Praziquantel and Metronidazole regardless of whether or not I see signs of parasites)


<a name=9>Q: How soon should I begin treatment?</a>
A: Have the fish eating before starting treatment if possible. If the treatment is prophylactic give the fish a week or two to settle in and start eating regularly. If there are signs of disease or parasites you may need to start treatment right away.


<a name=10>Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
A: The more established the QT the better. A squeaky clean QT is not necessarliy the best environment, even if cycled, even if jump started with water from the display tank. A slightly "dirty" QT is my preference. A little algae growth is a good indicator that the tank is "ready". If the QT has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.


<a name=11>Q: What equipment do I need to setup a QT?</a>
A:

• Tank
• Heater
• Powerhead(s)
• Thermometer
• Ammonia Alert Indicator and/or Nitrate & Nitrite test kits
• PVC pipe segments or other hiding places for fish
• Live Rock (optional)
• Light (optional for fish-only)
• Skimmer (optional)
• HOB Filter (optional)

<a name=12>Q: What are some medications I should have on hand?</a>
A:

• Copper or Chloroquine - for ich and other external parasites
• Praziquantel - for flukes and worms
• Metronidazole - for intestinal and other protozoa
• Formalin - for brook and other external parasites
• Erythromycin and Minocycline - for bacterial prevention/treatment
• Food enhancers such as Selcon, Zoe, and Eco Garlic

Thanks for posting this. I've been wanting more stickies in this forum for a long, long time.
Mods, can we make this a sticky please?
I would also like one for treating ich, velvet, internal parasites.

For copper treatment I prefer cupramine. I also like to keep pimaflix and melafix to treat external bacterial infection, and fin rot.

Symptoms and Diagnosis Possibilities

This isn't an end-all be-all solution but it should provide some direction for those seeking help until someone responds to your post. As always, do your homework with any suggestions that are provided before starting treatment.


1. <a href="#1">Tiny white dots on body or fins </a>
2. <a href="#2">Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body </a>
3. <a href="#3">Tiny black dots on body or fins </a>
4. <a href="#4">Raised white bumps on body or fins </a>
5. <a href="#5">Excessive mucus on body or gills </a>
6. <a href="#6">Ragged, torn, or missing fins </a>
7. <a href="#7">Cloudy eye(s) </a>
8. <a href="#8">Holes or pits on face, head, or lateral line </a>
9. <a href="#9">Fuzzy white or brown patches on body or fins </a>
10. <a href="#10">Open sores or lesions on body </a>
11. <a href="#10">Raised or missing scales </a>
12. <a href="#12">Stringy thread-like attachments on body </a>
13. <a href="#13">Stringy thread-like attachments on anus </a>
14. <a href="#14">Fish is scratching on rocks or substrate </a>
15. <a href="#15">Fish is rapidly breathing or gasping </a>
16. <a href="#16">Fish is lethargic and/or hiding </a>
17. <a href="#17">Fish is swimming erratically </a>


<a name="1">Tiny white dots on body or fins</a>
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)


<a name="2">Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body</a>
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)


<a name="3">Tiny black dots on body or fins</a>
Research:
a) Black Ich (parasite)


<a name="4">Raised white bumps on body or fins</a>
Research:
a) Lymphocystis (viral)
b) Fungal Infection in marine fish


<a name="5">Excessive mucus on body or gills</a>
Research:
a) Brooklynella (parasite)
b) Marine Flukes (parasite)


<a name="6">Ragged, torn, or missing fins</a>
Research:
a) Fin Rot and Tail Rot (bacterial)
b) Marine Ich (parasite)
c) Ammonia Poisoning in marine fish


<a name="7">Cloudy eye(s)</a>
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Fin Rot and Tail Rot (bacterial)
c) Marine Ich (parasite)
d) Marine Flukes (parasite)
e) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


<a name="8">Holes or pits on face, head, or lateral line</a>
Research:
a) Head and Lateral Line Errosion "HLLE"


<a name="9">Fuzzy white or brown patches on body or fins</a>
Research:
a) Fungal Infection in marine fish
b) Columnaris (bacterial)


<a name="10">Open sores or lesions on body</a>
Research:
a) Marine Flukes (parasite)
b) Brooklynella (parasite)
c) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


<a name="11">Raised or missing scales</a>
Research:
a) Dropsy (bacterial)
b) Bacterial Infection in marine fish



<a name="12">Stringy thread-like attachments on anus</a>
Research:
a) Thread worms (parasite)


<a name="13">Stringy thread-like attachments on body</a>
Research:
a) Anchor worms (parasite)


<a name="14">Fish is scratching on rocks or substrate</a>
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)
b) Marine Velvet (parasite)
c) Marine Flukes (parasite)
d) Anchor worms (parasite)


<a name="15">Fish is rapidly breathing or gasping</a>
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Brooklynella (parasite)
c) Marine Flukes (parasite)
d) Bacterial Infection in marine fish
e) Ammonia Poisoning in marine fish


<a name="16">Fish is lethargic and/or hiding</a>
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Head and Lateral Line Errosion "HLLE"
c) Dropsy (bacterial)
d) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


<a name="17">Fish is swimming erratically</a>
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)
b) Marine flukes (parasite)

Nice Job,

My only thoughts.....2 weeks in my opinion is not long enough. I would want to QT a fish for at least 8 weeks especially if you are not treating with anything. If you are treating (especially with copper) then a shorter QT like in the 4-5 weeks range would work. I have recently had a bought of bad luck with my QT process. Not sure if I had my copper level to low or what, but somehow ich made it in to my display even after I QT'd all my fish for at least 8 weeks. So you never know......

I would, and do, agree. Roughly quoting from RegalAngel's post..

Two weeks is a minimum for observation. There's nothing wrong with longer observation IMO. Of course if other treatment is required then it might take 6-8 weeks total, or even longer, until the fish is ready to be placed into the display.

My protocol is usually a week to ensure they're eating well, then a week or two of Prazi Pro regardless of evidence of parasites or not. If all is well after 2-3 weeks I transfer to the display.

My biggest thing is im confused on how to cycle/prep my QT for use.I got a HOB filter,pvc,heater,and heater. I cant leave it running all the time so i basically need to use mine on a as needed basis. So incase i needed to use it i would use water from my DT but how would i know or what would i do to make sure its ready for use??

You would have to use the filter that you are going to put on your QT in your main tank all the time. So it is seeded with bacteria and ready to go when you need it.

Just the filter pad or the whole hob filter?? I was told to cut the bag open and dump everythin out since it will soak up any medicine I put in qt tank. Another thing could I just cut like a peice of sponge and keep it in my sump at all times without the filter pad and when it time to use qt put the sponge I. The filter pad and run it like that?

Right, if you're going to use a HOB filter in your QT then you can take one of the filter inserts and toss just the filter into the sump/fuge of the display tank and allow it to seed (6-8 weeks) then you can instantly start your QT. once the filter has been used in the QT don't add it back to the display tank. just add a new filter in the sump to get it ready for next time.

Remove the insides right?? And what about the sponge??

yea but that would be disastrous if he's dosing copper in his quarantine tank because when he puts the filter back into his main tank the copper will leach out of the filter and kill all his inverts/corals, if he has them that is.

That's not what he was saying, never put a filter that was used in the QT back in the display tank. If you do that, you run the risk of transferring just about anything from copper to ich to your display, once it served its purpose in the QT toss it and start a new filter in the display.

Ich and Velvet thread with good info:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1500214

This thread is very useful.
Thanks so much.

One question,
What should we do if the course is "Bacterial Infection in marine fish"?
Water change is the proper thing to do or is there any other option.

Thanks so much for having this information available!

I would like some opinions on something. I have a coral beauty that has been in QT for 10 days, with plans to keep him/her there for a total of 4 weeks - he would go in the DT on 8/15. Here's my question, I dipped him in prazipro before he went into the QT and I've been considering dipping him in a formalin/malachite green med I have before I put him in the DT. I would prefer to dip as I would rather not treat the tank. What are people's opinions on dipping versus treating the tank?

what type of filtration do you guys perfer, HOB, simple sponge filter, or just a powerhead and change new water everday?

if im going to use metronidazole as prophylaxis what is the effective and safe dosage? and how long do you have to keep the fish in the medicated water?

great info. Its nice to have a comprehensive guide

What medicines does everyone treat with even if no symptoms are showing?

Is copper the best preventative way of treating ich or do people still treat by hyposalinity?

what about fresh water dips aswell

Holy smokes... I had been away for a bit and there is a lot of chatter in this thread. I will attempt to answer to the best of my ability, but it's probably best to start a new thread in the forum if you have a question. The experience of everyone as a group is invaluable.

Correct. Don't transfer anything, especially something porus or any sort of substrate from your QT to your DT. Quite a few people like to start with a new sponge/biowheel and place it into their DT, then when the QT needs to be set up move that sponge into it to jumpstart the beneficial bacteria population. If/when it's time to break down the QT throw away the sponge, or at least soak it in bleach, then rinse it and let it dry out.




Usually antibiotics will be in order. The exact treatment will depend on whether the infection is gram positive or gram negative bacteria. If it's difficult to distinguish then a broad spectrum drug such as Doxycycline can be used. p.s. I am envious of your beautiful tank, Sir :)




Personally I would avoid the formalin/malachite bath unless you have a serious reason to do it. I realize this advice is probably coming too late but for anyone else that happens upon it... formalin is nasty stuff and can stress/kill fish easily. Save it as a last resort. When needed, using it in a bath seems to be a popular treatment method. Also, for future reference it may be wise to get your fish eating before starting Prazi based treatments as they tend to suppress appetite. It's a decision that has to be weighed if you know your fish has flukes.




This is a good topic for a new forum thread. In general, I personally prefer as much varied filtration in combination with water changes as possible. In situations where a medication will likely wipe out bilogical filtration you can decide to carry out treatment in a dip/bath outside the QT, or the alternative use treatment in the tank followed by regular water changes and careful monitoring of nitrite levels. Once the biological filtration is dead regular large water changes are a must. A powerhead will help aerate the water (especially if used to break the surface) but otherwise won't contribute to the filtration. If you're using carbon or similar chemical filtration don't forget to check the instructions of any medication you may be using; in many cases you may need to remove the chemical filtration in order for the medication to be effective. If you're using forms of mechanical filtration (filter socks, etc...) it's not a bad idea to clean them daily especially if fighting ich/ick.



This is a good topic for a new forum thread. I have personally changed my methods a little and now only treat with Prazi as prophylaxis, and almost always only once the fish are eating all of the foods I want them to eat. Whats "best" is subject to opinion. In the past I was using chloroquine (instead of copper) however both medications are immunosuppressants and that can leave your fish vulnerable to certain problems. If you wanted to copper your fish as prophylaxis I would look into chloroquine as an alternative. It doesn't get bound up by elements in the saltwater, thus you only need to dose it once, and only add more as you do water changes. Unfortunately you can't test it in the water so you must carefully keep track of how much you have dosed. Some fish (angels, butterflies) are sensitive to copper and chloroquine MAY be better for these fish. I have had good luck using it with butterflies but I'm only one person and my experience may not apply to someone else.




FW dips (when temp and ph matched) can be useful. There is plenty of info on the web regarding using FW dips to treat various parasites. Someone recently mentioned the use of a FW dip prior to Prazi to get a good idea if the fish has flukes or not. It's a good approach, especially for fish that are picky eaters since the Prazi will suppress their appetite even more. If a FW dip reveals no flukes you may want to skip the Prazi - or at least hold off until the fish are eating well and fat, and then decide if you want to go ahead with it.



...ok I think that covered all of the questions. I would encourage everyone to post future questions to the main fish disease forum so you can get input from the greater experience of everyone here at RC. I am relatively inexperienced in QT and treatment of fish compared to many of the good people here.

If you're QT'ing and keeping a close eye on your wet friends then you're already giving yourself a much better chance to succeed! Keep up the good fight :)

Here's a question:

Where do you get these medications such as Prazi & others mentioned & what are they specifically called? How 'bout a link to what we're looking for?

Also, what are suggested steps as far as dips before QT? TMPCC??? For instance, perform a freshwater dip, then TMPCC dip, then place in QT. Good idea for all corals?

Wow, great thread. Subscribed for sure! I have nothing to add but am bumping this up due to some un-truths I've noticed floating around about treating ich lately.

Great write up!!