Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
This is a little test video I made using Meanwell LDD-1000H and Bridgelux BXRA-40E2200 Neutral White array:
http://youtu.be/ek-nXz5Eltw The array itself is very powerful, so its not going to dim to moonlight brightness, but regular 3W LEDs do. They barely glow at 1/255 level. Enjoy! |
What power supply is connected to the LDD? That is exactly what I want to do in my next DIY setup. There isn't much info out there in using separate power supplies and led drivers like this one, even though it is probably the better way to go.
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In this particular example its a 48V 1.25A Meanwell power supply. The biggest reason for using is is that that array needs 36V minimum. If you are building a smaller unit, you can use a old laptop power supply for example that outputs 16-18V. With that you will be good to probably 5 LEDs per driver. Looks like AI is built similar to that. For my larger build I am using a Switching Power Supply 200w, 25V @ 8.3A from Stevesleds. With that one I am using 7 XT-E LEDs per string just fine. You can find many like it on ebay as well. This is pretty much what Ecotech uses. The beauty of these drivers is that they dim to 0 and cost under $5 each.
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Ok help me out here so I can understand better. I am trying to mimic 2 of the new ecotechs with around 84 leds over my 120 gallon. Could I get a 350w 48v 7.3a power supply and 7 of these 48v version drivers? How would I hook them all up to the power supply, and how would I make 4 dimmable channels out of it connected to an arduino like Typhon Boostled, or 7 channels with two arduinos? Can I also mix and match different current drivers, like the 600 mah version along with the 1000H? |
The drivers just hook up in parallel to the power supply. The more you connect, the higher current PS you will need. How high exactly, depends on what current your LEDs are consuming. In theory 84 *3W = 240, so you should be well under that PS limit.
You can mix and match. If you are going to dim them, there is no reason to get anything but the 1000mA version. The only danger is that if you loose your Arduino or other dimming input connection, the driver will go full current. If you have some LEDs that cannot handle that, they will probably fry. Arduino Mega 2560 that I am using has 14 PWM outputs. That should cover all possible colors you want and more. The controller I am using is linked in the video. He tried to post on here, but got removed because he is collecting donations. Parts cost about $50 including the touchscreen, clock shield and the Mega board from e-bay. |
I think I might just try that controller just for the led control. It would equal out in price to a Typhon Boostled anyway... and it is much nicer. The outlets for the wavemaker.. etc look too complicated for me. Thanks!!
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These ldds are incredibly hard to find right now. Only 1 place had the 1000mah ones, but no one has the 700 and 600mah ones which I need too. I prefer the pre-wired versions, but it looks like i'll need to search both kinds.
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The driver sounds very economical and more suitable for larger build comparing to my 9W 680ma driver!!! Definitely need to get my hands on them.
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Considering that they can do 48v just fine, I will be using just 9 of them for ~100 leds. 9 very small drivers that can dim to 0% = $54 350w-400w 48v power supply = $40 Total = $96 To light up 108 leds with much larger Meanwell D or P = 9 x $34 = $306! Huge savings and better dimming.... with current up to 1000mah. No need for driver adjustment either, and they have 600mah and 700mah versions. These are perfect for DIY led and an arduino or typhon. |
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Where can I find a bill of parts? I have an un-used Arduino, if possible want to use it for the project. I am seriously thinking of getting one to fool around along with some of the drivers. I build couple controller before but this one seems cooler with a color touch screen!!! Note: I properly not using this controller for reefing though. Report back your progress please Kudos to the OP for such a wonderful teaser. |
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Nifty find. I was thinking of adding TV and OCW on my RB/NW. To convert all my ELN to LDD with new.PSU, would be almost as cheap as one ELN. Plus dimming down to 1/255. Nice. I haven't ordered from Mouser for year, but they have a ton of the LDD drivers, in L and D models at all different currents.
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None of them have the -hw versions with the wires pre-attached right now. They all mostly have the -h version where you need to solder the wires on yourself. |
bh,
Now you have to give up the source for the LDD before you consume all drivers!!!! LOL |
I am loving this project more and more as I can now use my extra Arduino that has been laying around for over a year. The design was directly based on the board I have here. Hehe.
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You could also use an arduino led shield to save even more space and money. Just look for "Arduino 6 channel led shield" on ebay. I prefer the LDDs over the shield, as I can attach them to a heatsink and run them at 48v, and I'm not very experienced with arduinos. |
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All of the big component retailers share pricing information. I don't know if it's directly swapped or they just spider the competition's websites. Case in point. A terminal we use in the shop requires a specific pin extractor. Our standard cheap one mangles it, so you have to use the right one. I used to buy ten a year or so at $80ish each. Well, I went to order the yearly stock one year and the price had exploded to $231! I called our rep and asked what the heck happened. She did some research and found that they had raised their price because another supplier did. A few months and vicious cycles later and they cost almost four times as much as they should. She fixed it, then it was interesting to watch the prices lower across the web. BTW, if you're looking for the cheapest price on components www.octopart.com is your friend. |
Does anyone know how much current is drawn by the pwm terminal? Wondering how many of these I can safely put on a single channel that is rated for 40mA. I've seen somewhere that the driver only needs 3 or 4mA but would like to confirm that before I plan on putting 6 LDDs on a single channel.
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Meanwell is nice enough to list "QUIESCENT INPUT CURRENT IN SHUTDOWN MODE(max.)" as "1mA at PWM dimming OFF and 24VDC input" on the data sheet uder the dimming section, I'd like to have the max input current when on as well.
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That's how much the driver itself consumes when off. Not PWM input current.
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Oops, I over-thought it and jumped to the wrong conclusion.
I did notice something else in the data sheet that has me worried. It specs PWM input at 2.5V to 6V, my Reef Angel puts out a 10V PWM signal. I've seen a couple arduino controllers mentioned, but has anyone tried the LDD series driver on a 10V PWM signal as opposed to a 5V signal? |
DO YOU HAVE TO GET DIFFERENT SIZED DRIVERS, FOR THE DIFFERENT LEDS AM I CORRECT ON THIS. (DEPENDING ON WHAT mA THE LED NEEDS)
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If you do not connect anything to the driver DIM pin it will run at 100%. If you use a controller, then it does not matter. Just remember to dim LEDs below their max values.
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