90 Bridgelux LED, ELN-Ds, c-channel heat sink
 

Well I finally made the switch to LEDs. I ordered my kit from aquastyle and it came the same week I ordered it. I got 90 LEDs, with ELN 60-48D drivers. I opted to go with the aluminum c channel route, and I'm so glad that I did. The one thing about the Bridgelux LEDs is the diff kelvin whites that they offer. I've seen a few tanks that go all RB and the cool white, (the Bridgelux cool white is 10000k) and IMO it seems too blue or almost purple. I chose to go with 2:1 RB:white. I did 60rb, 15:10000k white, 10:6500k white, and 5: 4500 k white. Now that I have everything up and running I wish I hade done more of the 6500, which still looks like a pure white to the naked eye. I chose to not add any colored LEDs, I instead tried to get the full spectrum out of the diff kelvin whites. I think I did a pretty good job at spreading everything out. The c channel I got from home depot. It's 3/4" wide, and it came in 90" pieces. I chose to do 4 rows at 62", I left 1 row empty so if I needed to add more LEDs I could do it very easily without rebuilding another heat sink. For those people worried about the c channel from home depot, DO NOT BE! It has worked great so far. I have 2 fans in my canopy, so I decided to try those out first and if they didn't keep the fixture cool enough I could always add fans directly to the fixture. After hooking everything up there is def no reason to add fans. The hottest the c channel ever has gotten was 100degrees, and that is with the fans off, and the leds running at 100%.

Overall I'm happy with the color, as of right now I won't be adding any more LEDs. I have SPS toward the top of the tank and they are doing fine. My fixture is about 8" off my water and I'm running 80 degree optics. The optics made s huge difference in my case. I didn't think I needed them when I first installed the fixture, but after I out them on it seemed like the tank got twice as bright. Also I tried using the Typhon controller for my drivers, but it's not working . It turns them on and off, but it seems to only dim them from 50%-100%. So right when I turn the typhon on at 1%, the LEDs already look like they're at 50%. Then as I go up from 1%, the LEDs will gradually get brighter and brighter. But only until about 20% on the typhon. Once the typhon hits 20% the LEDs already look like they are at 100% and do not get any brighter from 20-100%. (hopefully that makes sense) Im prolly gunna end up with a reef angel soon, so that should be taken care of.


I switched to LEDs for a few reasons. The main reason was the humidity in my house was INSANE!!! I previously had a 90g tank and I never noticed any humidity. As soon as I hooked up the 180, WOW. Everytime I got home from work I would have to open 2-3 windows and turn on the AC just to get that hot humid feeling out of the house. (I live in southern California where there is 0 humidity). The LEDs fixed my problem 100%. I came from 3-250w MHs and 2-54w T5s. Now my electricity bill will problem drop a lot, and I can probably sell my chiller. My tank has yet to get over 78 degrees. Another big reason was color! I just couldn't get my corals to look as nice as when I bought them from a LFS that used T5s or LEDs. I mostly have Lps and softys with a few SPS pieces. I was running radium 20k with ATI Blue+ t5s, but I think I might have just had too much lighting. A lot of my acans grew like weeds, but the color turned very blah. Now all my corals pop like crazy and I'd say the color in the tank is very close to what my radiums looked like. I think I might end up adding a few more blues and 6500 k whites on the 4th row, and maybe if I get crazy I'll add some 420nm and maybe some green and reg blue LEDs. Well now I'll post some pics of everything. Thanks for checking out my build .
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my phone camera obviously makes the color look alot more blue than it really is. That pic of all the drivers under my tank was just temporary. lol it was like 9 o clock on sunday when i started wiring the drivers, and i had to work the next day, so i just threw everything together temporarily to test it and make sure it was all working perfect

Nice wiring. LOL {snort}


Tank looks nice under that too.

Thanks for all the pics and the write-up too.

Nice even coverage, I think it looks good.

I'll reserve my comments on the wiring untill I see the finished product because it looks just a little bit sketchy right now. :lmao:

Any plans for a splash guard?

You need the ELN P's to use the Typhon.

It looks great. I love that ranger. I need a toy like that.

Mmmmmmm! Spaghetti! :)

Rig came out well. I'm sure you love the savings in your electric bill. 750 watts down to probably ~350. Nice!!

That's a nice rig there, nice even color and bright.

what size in your tank

Must not have been to bad a job. I only see 1 coors light bottle. With the c channel are they staying plenty cool? Tank Looks real good.

Thanks and YES YES i know the wiring looks like crap I cleaned it up since then

ya i found that out the hard way lol and no splash gaurd. The typhon does work, but it will not dimm gradually..its more of a on and off only kinda sucks..im gunna get the reef angel soon

ya i just got that a few months ago RZR XP that thing is such a BLAST!!!

3-250w MH and 2-54w T5.... 858watts...and YES SIR i cant wait for my next electricity bill

ya im super happy with how it came out. I was worried about shadowing and dark spots, But surprisingly it came out GREAT. I honestly think using the c channel helped a ton..compared to if i had tried squeezing all those LEDs on say 2 or 3 smaller heatsinks

180 gallons 72x24x24

YA RIGHT..only 1 in the picture you didnt see the 20 pack of bottles i burned thru in half the weekend lol IMO i think they are staying plenty cool. the fans in my canopy are on when the lights come on, so i think that helps alot. I tried turning the fans off to see what happened and the c channel started to get a little hot, but it was still not burning hot. and dont forget i only spent $40!

From what I see on the reef angel website is that it is ran on an arduino based platform (as is the Typhon) which means they use a PWM (digital signal) for dimming. The Meanwell ELN-D drivers were created to run on a analog 10v signal.

I fear that unless you switch to running ELN-P's you're going to run into the same issue of no controllability. Perhaps someone else will chime in on this.

Would highly recommend a splash shield. Shock and short hazards are one reason but quite a few folks who've ran rigs like this without them have reported having to replace many leds after about 2 years of running due to corrosion issues from moisture.

ill def consider the splash gaurd...i was thinking about doing it already. If you go to reefangels website they offer 2 versions..the PWM and the 0-10v analog signal. so i think they came out with a new version. I emailed them and they said they will dimm and control the ELN Ds no prob

Ahh...sounds like you should be good then. :thumbsup:

Nice.. Have you had them on 100% since install ?
I ask because I just bought and installed [40] 3w Bridgelux [2] MeanWell LPF-60D-48 over a 54g corner cylinder tank... [16RB][16-10,000k][4-6500k][2-UV][2-Red] 60* degree optics on everything but UV & red's. 12-14" above water surface. 34" to sand bed.

I had to dim everything back to the bare min pot. 15%blue/15%whites because of bad bleaching. Coming from [2]T5's I since have seen better results. I ramp it up every couple days. Currently at 25%Blue / 20%White. And I also taped [disabled] the red led's because I feel it was harming my corals. {just a theory} google- 660nm effects on corals


I run my blues 12hrs daily / whites 4-6hrs daily..
I am going to ditch the red leds and put 2 more 10,000k to balance out the blue lighting. All blues doesn't look good to me...



Splash Guard!!! Lmao --> I already dropped the unit in the tank twice once unplugged and once plugged in... Reached in and pulled it out still lit.... IDK why I didn't get shocked,, Ground probe maybe. So I trust the durability of these light already.... I thought I was going to cry $260 :FLUSH:

All Blues [16] Royal Blue 3w bridgelux [2]UV
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...2023.48.02.jpg


All Blues [16] Royal Blue [2] UV AND All Whites [16] 10,000k [4] 6500k
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...2023.48.23.jpg

White Only:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...2023.49.00.jpg

So just 90 LEDs over a 180?? And it's enough? I guess the 180 I'm putting over a friend's 175 is going to be serious overkill...

Everyones tank is different. But im telling you the 90 leds i have over my tank is doing awesome. I wouldnt just say that if it was doing bad. I would warn people that 90 is NOT enough...but thats just not true. 90 is doing awesome!! I feel like the Cree lovers out there scare everyone into buying WAYYY too many LEDs for their tank. "if you go cree, use 48..if you use bridgelux then get 120" hahsahah Also dont forget my tank is mainly LPS and softy..with a few sps pieces at the top of the tank.

it might have to do with the color combination and also LED placement. My LEDs are spread out evenly and do a very good job at lighting my tank. I do however have all my leds at 100%. I might end up adding 24 more leds so i can run them at like 80%, just to extend the life.

@Calio i would consider adding more 6500k white. I think you will get a better color then with all 10000k

:worried:

I have 6500k's just 4 tho.. Pics dont show it but I like it the highest rocks are more yellow than mid-way down and even less at the front bottom sea bed.. Almost like real reef but in smaller scale.

This is my led config's: The Top is the "corner" or "back" side 1" x 1" grids
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...2520Config.jpg

But I might consider [2] 6500k in place of the red leds on the blue's to bring back the light. If thats what you meant.. Sorry misunderstood...

On my setup i have 10 6500k and 5 4500k and i REALLY like the color! To me the 6500k is a better white then the 10000k. I would consider adding more 6500 and a few 4500 and ditch the red! There is no science or engineering behind my reasoning, this is just what i assume would look best from my experience. (as im typing this my GF is giving me a hard time..she just said..."what are you typing? that your a loser? what could u possibly be typing" hjahahhahahah BABE come on its for the fish tank...DUHHH hahah lol)

Do you guys think 120 leds is enough for a 96"x30x30

That is just too funny!!! I hear her as I read this.... Thats when I pull up my back up window with a real pretty cichlid for her tank...

IF you want spot lights then yes... I figure [SchnitzelReef] 180g tank is 72" x 24" x 24" and he has 90 leds.. (6 drivers? WHY?)

So I figure because your 375g is 2' longer, 6"wider and 6" deeper.

IMO You will need something like 160 - 200 leds... With 45* degree optics.
Granted this is too be able to keep clams on the sea bed too... But if your serious send Ray an email at aquastyleonline.com He is awsome for as much business as they get he handles it all.. Throws in a few extra leds "in case" the whole nine. Plus will tell you what he thinks without trying to make a bigger sale...

Calio email sent. Now looking for heatsink/uchannel