Can I put a sump tank on the ground?
 

I’m considering using a sump tank larger than what fits in my stand and putting it in the ground behind the stand. Is this something that I can do?


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Sure you can..
Depending on they type of flooring (carpet,etc...) it may be beneficial to just place it on a sheet of plywood.
You could even construct a small platform with casters to allow moving it easily.

^^^This^^^

The only thing I would advise against is putting it directly on a concrete floor. The concrete will make it difficult to keep the water at the correct temperature without the use of oversize (and therefore wasteful) heaters

^^^This^^^ ;)
Good point.. Concrete floor would be a surface where a thermal insulator would be a good idea too..

Thank you! I read elsewhere that putting a tank on the ground is likely to make it very unstable and was skeptical of the idea.

One other question - is a HOB overflow with 600 GPH (max rating) going through a 20 gallon long display to a 29 gal sump too much flow for the inhabitants of the DT?


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No the HOB filter will provide water movement but not enough to be too much inside the 20g

Thank you!


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You said hob overflow not filter...
The rating of the overflow does not define how much flow you will actually achieve. That would be dictated by the pump you use and the head height/plumbing size..

A 20g tank only need 60-100gph of flow through the sump.

Unfortunately the HOB overflows are all rated for much higher GPH than 60-100 - and I’ve heard that running an HOB lower than its capacity leads to air bubbles and a loss of siphon.
The lowest one I can find is 200 or 300 GPH, but itd be more expensive than the other one I found. Do you think I should go with the smaller?

The 600gph one should be ok. You do NOT one with a max rating of 60-100.. You want the max of the overflow to be in excess of what you plan to run.
Which one are you looking at specifically? Types with a single u tube should be fine and the risk of siphon loss is pretty low with those but it can happen

Thank you!

I’ve been looking at the CPR series overflows paired with an aqua lifted pump - like this https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/delux...ua-lifter.html

My LFS uses one of these on a 125 and claim it’s the safest type of HOB. They told me is was safer than the U-Tube siphon designs like LifeReef and Eshopps.

Do you agree?


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I think each type has its own merits.. Each can be taken down by a single failure.
I would make my decision solely on the price and the amount of space it takes up in the tank..

Personally I decided a long time ago that if I want an aquarium with a sump it will ALWAYS have a proper drilled overflow and will never rely on a HOB type.
There are ways though to reduce and even eliminate any potential failure mechanism with each type of HOB..

The single most important thing to do in a HOB overflow system is to ensure that the return pump chamber of the sump runs dry before the display tank overflows.

Then whatever methods the overflow uses to attempt to maintain a siphon really don't matter.. If the siphon is lost all thats going to happen is that the return pump sits there running dry..

Thank you.
To ensure the RT runs dry should I have the baffle relatively high so that once it starts sending out water itl all add up in the refugium / other sections? This would be in addition to the return section being as small as possible.


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The baffle that I believe you are speaking about won't matter..

The failure mode is that the siphon is lost so the HOB isn't returning water to the sump (or just whats left in its drain piping that will fall into the sump from gravity).. The water is already running (cycling) and cascading into the return section..
A taller baffle before that won't change that at all and won't allow water to build up anywhere..
So now you have no siphon/no water coming back to the sump you just want to ensure that whatever is left in the return section isn't enough to overflow the display tank as its being pumped up there until that section runs out of water

How do I properly limit what the return section can hold
So it can run out?


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Its physical size can limit it..
Raising the pump can limit it..
Placing something in the return area to displace water can limit it

If you want something you can drill, there is an open box eshopps overflow. I have one on my 20g and it works great.

https://clearchoiceaquatics.com/prod...se-s-up-to-75g

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I would love to drill the tank except I already have live stock in it. Everyone says don’t drill tanks that are set up. Although I guess I could drain all the water and put the rock / fish / inverts in 5 gallon barrels with power heads and heaters? I’m assuming I’d need to add new sand?


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I mentioned raising the pump at my LFS and they said don’t do it because it will make the water at the bottom stagnant.. although I’m thinking that I’ll have water flow into that section from teeth at the Bottom. Would this negate that? If not, would adding a small power head at the bottom be sufficient?

Do you think it’s worth emptying the tank to drill it?


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The comment about raising a pump makes the water beneath it stagnant silly/incorrect.

As far as worth it emptying a tank to drill it...maybe.. I have no idea whats in your tank/how much work that would involve,etc... Personally I would rather have a drilled tank vs a hob but like I said you can just about negate any bad failures with a hob so it may not be worth the effort.

How should I elevate the pump? Should I take a wire material to make a stand for it?
While I would prefer a drilled tank as well if the dangers of an HOB can negated than it seems like I’ll just go with a HOB for convenience.


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Do you need to elevate the pump?

What size is the return section of the sump? (Measure from the center of the return pump inlet to the top of the water level for the height)
What is the volume of space left in the display tank above the water line?
If the first is less than the second there is no need to elevate the pump..

I haven’t designed the sump yet. I have baffles. My plan was to drain the DT into the sump to see how high I had to make the baffles. My RT section will be as small as I can make it.. so basically barely bigger than the pump. I have an old 29 gal sitting around that I’m thinking of using, considering the kit I have on hand is for a 29 gal tank.

The return section is where the water will change level with evaporation & where an ATO should be.
Too small & the pump can run it out of water so be careful.

I personally would just empty the display tank and drill it. If the pump runs dry it could burn out, and then you will need to buy a new pump.