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smb2415 · 04/16/2013, 05:49 PM

the stand:
after reading posts on here I decided I wanted a steel stand. Allows for more room under tank as I am limited in ceiling height and do not want a center support.

I opted for 2"x3" .125" HSS tube (rectangle tube) for the top frame and 2"x2" .250" for the legs and bottom frame. This is overkill but I feel better. I wanted the 2x2 .250 for the bottom as if I need to shim the frame I dont want to worry about reinforcing as I woudl with angle iron. I didnt use .125" because I was worried about ~5500lbs on 4 points crushing a thinner wall (.125"). The design is completely closed using mitres for all corners to prevent water and salt damage.

The steel and cutting cost ~$450 and I spent another $100 on restocking welding supplies. Cutting was only about $2/cut and saved me from muscling the large stock and purchasing a cold steel bandsaw ~$200 used on craigslist. For the steel shop to supply and wled it would have been ~$1000.

I am going to finish with black powder coat. I chose this of truck bed liner as I liked the finish better and cost seems to be similar. depending upon the shop I use $150-$250.

I want to have a platform on both sides to ease working on the tank. I saw a post but cant find it right now. I'm debating between using folding roofing plank brackets or HSS tube with square bars mounted to a 2x10. This 2x10 would be able to be put on either side.
Almost forgot - yes the tank will be setup as a peninsula. These brackets are not on the print. To attach the finish facade I plan on using quarter turn screws mounted to gussets and some other brackets - http://www.southco.com/product/class...cid=7438&ctid=. I'll also need some misc brackets under the top platform for mounting of lights, pumps and whatnot - I do not want to drill any holes in the steel frame.

Under the tank I will use 3/4" pressure treated plywood with one side laminated with that plastic stuff they use in commercial bathrooms. Then 3/4" blue board foam under the tank. The reason for the plastic to to help prevent moisture on the plywood from sump tank evaporation.

The stand platforms are welded up and grinded all welds smooth.... I wont be applying to be a welder... Tomorrow I should be able to attach legs and platforms.

04/16/2013, 05:49 PM	#3
smb2415 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Wallingford, CT Posts: 738	the stand: after reading posts on here I decided I wanted a steel stand. Allows for more room under tank as I am limited in ceiling height and do not want a center support. I opted for 2"x3" .125" HSS tube (rectangle tube) for the top frame and 2"x2" .250" for the legs and bottom frame. This is overkill but I feel better. I wanted the 2x2 .250 for the bottom as if I need to shim the frame I dont want to worry about reinforcing as I woudl with angle iron. I didnt use .125" because I was worried about ~5500lbs on 4 points crushing a thinner wall (.125"). The design is completely closed using mitres for all corners to prevent water and salt damage. The steel and cutting cost ~$450 and I spent another $100 on restocking welding supplies. Cutting was only about $2/cut and saved me from muscling the large stock and purchasing a cold steel bandsaw ~$200 used on craigslist. For the steel shop to supply and wled it would have been ~$1000. I am going to finish with black powder coat. I chose this of truck bed liner as I liked the finish better and cost seems to be similar. depending upon the shop I use $150-$250. I want to have a platform on both sides to ease working on the tank. I saw a post but cant find it right now. I'm debating between using folding roofing plank brackets or HSS tube with square bars mounted to a 2x10. This 2x10 would be able to be put on either side. Almost forgot - yes the tank will be setup as a peninsula. These brackets are not on the print. To attach the finish facade I plan on using quarter turn screws mounted to gussets and some other brackets - http://www.southco.com/product/class...cid=7438&ctid=. I'll also need some misc brackets under the top platform for mounting of lights, pumps and whatnot - I do not want to drill any holes in the steel frame. Under the tank I will use 3/4" pressure treated plywood with one side laminated with that plastic stuff they use in commercial bathrooms. Then 3/4" blue board foam under the tank. The reason for the plastic to to help prevent moisture on the plywood from sump tank evaporation. The stand platforms are welded up and grinded all welds smooth.... I wont be applying to be a welder... Tomorrow I should be able to attach legs and platforms.