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Old 02/22/2018, 09:16 AM   #9
pisanoal
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott07 View Post
Thank you! Will do on the PPE. Am I right in assuming Hydrochloric acid works equally well, or is essentially the same thing, if that's what i can find?
Same thing. Muriatic acid is designated for a specific strength of hydrochloric (33%).

Make sure to test the pH of your water before doing the water change. Smaller volumes should be ok within a few hours, but you need to give it time to gas off the co2. For example, I make up 45 gallons of water, add 15 mLs of concentrated HCL, and mix well (good surface agitation and complete volume turnover) for up to 2 days, or until pH comes up to around 8.

Also of note... I use reagent grade HCl when bringing alk down. The lower grade stuff could have heavy metals that may or may not affect your tank. Probably not an issue over a couple of water changes, but has the potential to have greater impacts if you always use it on your water changes. In the short run, use what you have to, but consider ordering better purity from a lab chemical company. Its a lot more expensive, but should last you quite a while.

SAFETY NOTE: I know other people have mentioned this, but goggles and gloves are a necessity. It won't instantly melt the flesh off you or anything, but, have fresh water nearby in case something bad happens. Also make sure you either have the kind that doesn't gas off as bad, or be sure to be in a well ventilated area. The vapors that come off of hydrochloric acid will definitely do respiratory damage. You'll know when you are in it, and generally you can see it as a white mist. I'd recommend measuring it outside and dilute it down with 3 times the volume of DI water then bring it to your salt water mixing container.


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