Hello Starvin,
Looking at the link of Randey Holmes:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
We read this:
“Monitor the DI resins by measuring the effluent’s conductivity, either with an inline meter (set to its most sensitive level), or by measuring the effluent manually. If you are using a TDS or conductivity meter, then the measured value should drop to near zero, or maybe 0-1 ppm TDS or 0-1 mS/cm. Higher values indicate that something is not functioning properly, or that the DI resin is becoming saturated and needs replacement. That does not necessarily mean, however, that 2 ppm TDS water is not OK to use. But beware that the flow of impurities and the conductivity may begin to rise fairly sharply when the resin becomes saturated. Do not agonize over 1 ppm versus zero ppm. While pure water has a TDS well below 1 ppm, uncertainties from carbon dioxide in the air (which gets into the water and ionizes to provide some conductivity; about 0.7 mS/cm for saturation with normal levels of CO2, possibly higher indoors) and the conductivity/TDS meter itself may yield results of 1 or 2 ppm even from totally pure water by not being exactly zeroed properly. Also note that the first impurities to leave the DI resin as it becomes saturated may be things that you are particularly concerned with (such as ammonia if your water supply uses chloramine or silica if there is a lot in the source water).”
The difference –apart from what they are- with TDS Meter and Conductivity Meter is simple: The probe is the same for conductivity and salinity, but for salinity readings a correction factor is applied to the conductivity value. The correction factor takes the conductivity reading and converts it to ppm of NaCl (table salt). Salts, minerals, and even dissolved gases contribute uniformly to the conductivity of a solution. This means that the conductivity can be used as an indicator of the amount of dissolved materials in a solution. TDS can be used fairly accurately when determining the concentration of a single salt, such as NaCl, but error can arise when trying to compare two different types of solutions.
So, in short I would offer a conductivity meter and to read 000 micro Siemens.
Returning back to “cause” of cyano and dino blooms (yes, I know the differences..) I put sand bottom and rocks slowly and continuously leaking phosphate, I am wondering whether there is any method to get aware of this? Apart from limewater or water changes? May be this:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2582403
Meaning we might rinse sand and/or rock with such a product –like a cure for 20 days- and then with RO water and then put it to the tank?
Would you offer any product –at this moment- for this purpose Bertoni?