The gross volume of the display tank (40" (L) X 21" (W) X 18" (H)) is about 65 (US) gallon. The gross volume of the sump (32" (L) X 15" (W) X 16" (H)) is about 125 litres.
The tank was built in March 2012. I went for a shallow tank this time as I found my previous tank, which was 24" high, difficult to maintain. The tank builder suggested that the weir be placed back to front, so that when I look at the tank my eyes would not be drawn to it. Surprisingly it works.
My shallow reef tank in the making by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
The sump has three compartments as shown below. The rightmost section is where the water from the display tank drains into and where the skimmer is located. The purpose of the black acrylic is to provide a dark zone for various water filtering organisms. It also prevents coralline algae forming on the body of the skimmer.
My new sump in the making by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
I designed the sump in a way that I can accommodate a protein skimmer that requires deep water. I use a Bubble magus Nac 6a skimmer (air intake rate is 500lph). It sits in 10.5"-high water:
My new sump by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
I also use a filter sock (only when I baste rocks) and a number of fist-size live rocks to encourage sponges, pods, etc.
Live rock for sponge growth by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
The middle section of the sump houses chaeto for nutrient export. I use a DIY light unit over it. The lamps are 36W each (6500K) and are very effective. I replace them every six months.
Daylight bulbs for chaeto growth by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
I remove about 1000 ml chaeto every ten days.
Chaeto growth by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
The return section houses the return pump (Sicce Syncra Silent 2.5), which turns over the entire volume of the set up about 7 times per hour, the probe of my Pinpoint pH monitor, the hose and two sensors of my Tunze Osmolator 3155 auto top-up device, and two Phosban 150 reactors. I fluidise GAC (Rox 0.8) and GFO (Rowa Phos) as and when required.
Equipment by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
The plumbing doesn't have any ball or gate valve to regulate the water level in the display tank. It does not need any solvent glue either to put together. However, the clamps need to be really tight in order to prevent air being sucked in, which can disturb the way drainage works.
Pipes by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
The water level is regulated by simply turning the knob (the object on the left hand side in the picture below), which is part of the pipe system installed in the weir. The manufacturer calls this system as "F-Type". I do not why. Perhaps this is because its shape somewhat resembles the letter F:
Plumbing in the weir by
M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr
In my next post, I will provide the light specification and the specification of the entire set up, including the live stock.