View Single Post
Old 05/23/2017, 12:37 PM   #38
Wally.B
Registered Member
 
Wally.B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Toronto GTA,Canada
Posts: 1,820
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Nice, Wally!
I think you'll get used to the no bucket wcs pretty darn quick.
What is a bucket??

Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Doesn't AF have dry versions of their components? Not sure.. or maybe they have industrial strength?
Yes they do, call their Component Strong, plus they have Target Elements too.
But for now I just want to use up my Component1,2,3.

I am going to need some help in this next phase of this Tank Restart.

-> I have Nutrient Export covered (Algae Scrubber)
-> I have Water Changes covered.
-> I have future Dosing Covered (TBD on foods)
-> I certainly have Circulation Covered (running medium for now)

The part that I've always wondered about my tank is Lighting.
I have a switchable MH Ballast (150W,175W,250W,HQI) running two Pheonix (250W) 14000K bulbs. Plus the two Blue Plus T5's and LED (18 LED's, running low).

I was running 150W, and today moved up to 175W with coral mounting.
I slightly raised the lights to 13" to spread things out and compensate for 25W more power per bulb.

So I am totally confused if I have too much lighting in this 65 Gallon Tank, or do I have not enough.

I rented a Par Meter a while ago, and if I put my MH bulbs at 250W, with the two T5 my par readings were:

-> 460 Just below water Surface
-> 320 at top of Rocks
-> 120 at Bottom of tank

I didn't have the Power LED, so I have to be careful with it.
I bleached all my corals overnight with that LED in QT.

WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN "SPS" to see if they are getting ENOUGH light?

-> White Tips?
-> Browning or Color Fading (not enough light), beside nutrients.



Last edited by Wally.B; 05/23/2017 at 01:12 PM.
Wally.B is offline   Reply With Quote